RavenTBK

Holy dawn of the dead Batman!

With the wiring, currently I'm just plugged into the stock harness. I just havent popped in my high watt bulbs yet. When I do get around to getting the high power stuff plugged in, I will do the same thing that I did on my Bronco with the 200A alternator. Either be lazy, and buy one of these from my good friend Ryan (http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67 bottom of page), or make something similar myself. The output can go directly to the battery, and the harness can be stripped of its original current carrying wire. The only things that the alternator needs is the exciter wire, and that sense wire for the idiot light on the dash. The old current wire ran to the battery anyways..just took a long and winding road to get there. The stock harness, if its in okay condition, can easily handle 70A.. so for most people, they should be able to plug and play without fear. And like I said before.. when are you really going to be running *all* of your accessories at once when you're on the trail? And even then, for how long? If you take a common sense approach to this upgrade, it will come out a lot cheaper, and be easier to get done. Cheers.

Yep, it does. That thread, including pics and part numbers can be found by clicking here.

Since its a "generic" off the shelf GM alternator, theres no reason a serpentine pulley cant be put on. Now the EA pulley wont swap over, but I'm sure an alternator shop would have the proper pulley that would make it work. The XT(6) is even more rare down these parts than EA81s are. Other than online, I've only seen two in person in my entire life. If I had access to one to see how it all looks inside, I could tell ya if it would just as easy of a drop in. But since XT6->EA alt swaps are common, theres no reason why it couldnt be made to work. At the same time, EA81 and EA82 alternators are interchangeable, so I do believe this could be applied to the EA82. However, I had the EA81 Brat/Wagon in mind when I was searching for the perfect drop in alternator. Only issue I can see some folks having is clearance issues due to the larger diameter case as compared to the stock alternator if theres A/C, stock aircleaner, or something else that could get in the way. Good luck... I'll help where I can.

One of my drivers got thrown in jail, so I've been pulling doubles and sleeping in the middle. I had a lil bit of time before I get to run in again.. so I've uploaded the pics. They're in my album, out of order, but there. Clicky clicky! Not all that much to see, as it was a pretty much drop in install. Here's my list: Alternator part number: P7157 Stock GM alternator plug Belt 1.5" longer than stock (your mileage may vary.. I just happened to use 1.5") Grinder/file to remove the bit of aluminum About an hour's worth of time Due to the large case design, those of you that have kept the stock aircleaner, or A/C might have fitment issues. To wire it up was simple. On the EA T-plug, theres a large gauge wire, and a small gauge wire. What I did was connect spades to the GM plug, and connected the large to large, small to small. The stock harness connected to the B+ output. Eventually, I plan on rewiring the stock harness with some nice 10ga wire.. but thats not necessary at this time. Here are the USMB threads I bookmarked for supplemental information: Main Source: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8470 Extra Useless Info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5324 Extra Useless Info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11742 So far, its been running for about a week without issues. I'll actually do a complete write up here soon. I will say this, the writeup wont be too much, as all "the work" was shaving that bit of aluminum off the ears. After that, it dropped in just like it was made for the Ru. Enjoy.

Well, its in. I started around noon, and finished near 4.. but I only did about an hours worth of work in between. Too many distractions.. all the pretty college girls coming to pick up their cars.. bossman wanting me to fix his 4wheeler.. lunch.. etc etc. If I put it down, it would run about 45mins total. Easy swap. The alternator was a drop in for the most part.. save the minor aluminum shaving, and playing musical belts. I took a handful of pics... maybe 5 or 6. I'll apply them to the thread a bit later. Afterwards, I had it load tested, and it throws 95A @ 4000rpm, and just over 40 at just off idle. This is adequate for my needs. I'll probably raise the idle slightly to take advantage of the 40A.. but thats later. I could also go with a smaller pulley on the alternator, but that would defeat the goal set out before of it being 99% drop in. Like I said above, its a drop in for the most part.. but I can see you guys that have the stock aircleaner or A/C would have an issue. Its a big alternator. Pics to come later. Work calls.

I'm well aware that this swap has been done numerous times in the past with resounding success. Same with the XT6 alt swap. The issues I came up with with regards to both of those is theres some decent fabrication required for both swaps. With all of the GM swaps I've read up on, there was a need to fab up a custom bracket or two to get it to mount correctly. Since I dont have the time, materials, or the tools to do it right, this route was out of the question. With the XT6 alt swap, theres not as much fab work, but more grunt work with swapping pulleys and such. With me living in the southeast, finding an XT in the JYs, let alone an XT6 is a challenge. Yall would probably die if you saw how much they want for a reman one at the local parts place with them not being "popular" here. They also dont stand up to the elements as well as the EA series alts....which is well documented. With the BushBrat and me living in the Apalachicola National Forest with all those trails to play on... well.. mud, sand, water, and all those goodies are on the menu on a semi-regular basis. After such, the parts store comes back into play - having to special order these items. So I should pay out the rear, only to have to wait two weeks for it to arrive from the warehouse each time I blow it up? Nope. Although I'm a diehard Ford guy (and prefer a 200A Ford G3 alt), the GM swap is cheap, and easily had down in these parts. The goal of this was to find a high amp GM swap that would drop in with even less effort than the XT6 swap. No fabbing of spacers, custom brackets, cutting any of the Subaru stock harnesses, or having to swap pulleys. With only a tiny big of filing, its literally plug and play. With the issue of the stock harness not being able to handle more than 70A, well, that doesnt apply all too much. If you need the output, then logically you'd enlarge the "tube" the extra power must go through. Thats just common sense. Besides, the power curve of this alternator puts 70A at 4200 crank rpm (assuming a 2.5:1 ratio, stock GM). How often will you really be needing a full 70A of output? For those rare nights that you're on the trail, with your system cranked up full blast, highbeams and all the driving lights on, heater fan cranked cause its cold, while you're running the winch trying to get yourself unstuck? And even then, for how long of a duration will you be needing the full 70A? 45secs at the most? Please. Odds are you will never need the full power except for those short bursts, or jumpstarting another vehicle. This is a cheap, easily had swap that can deliver the power when its needed, rather than overtaxing the alternator, pulling reserves from the battery, and leaving you with a fried alternator, and dead battery. My reasons for the swap is when I kick my lights on high beam, I'm already pulling 490 watts, or 40.8 amps, which leaves a mere 15A of output left..but wait, that 15A only exists at full throttle. At cruise, the max output *is* 40A, leaving 0. Thats before you figure in the draw from the radiator fans, blower motor, stereo, and the rest of the system.. (taillights, markers, turn signals, etc). Going this route delivers the extra headroom, if and when you need it.. without having to do any real fab or grunt work to make it happen. Wow.. this has turned into a 9 chapter novel. I'm going to shutup and finish matching belts.

Well, I've been doing an absolute ton of research on this. I've been searching for an alternator of at least 100A that would bolt up without having to do any fab work to make custom brackets or whatnot. I was also looking for a one wire alternator.. but my research has shown me that going to a true one wire setup isnt really the best idea.. two wire alts are the way to go. Besides.. it isnt that hard to wire one up the right way. Why do it halfassed? Well, I havent found the holy grail, but I have found one that is damned close. Its a lage case 100A off of an early 80s GM product. I wont tell exactly what it is yet until I get it together and cranking out the amps. I lucked out with the large case, as they are more stout and heavy duty than the small case alts.. and being such, they have the tendancy to last almost forever. Only work that needs to be done is file off 1/16" of metal off one of the ears, flip the adjustment bracket left to right, and attach the larger belt. With not having to cut, weld, for fab up custom bracketry, this should be a great swap for just about everyone. And.. with only having to shave that tiny bit of aluminum off the ear, its something that can easily be done on the side of the road, or in the parts store parking lot if you ever need to replace a bad alternator. Oh yeah.. I've found that most parts stores carry the stator plug in the electric connectors section. No need to wait for a special order T plug or having to yank one off a parts car. I plan on finishing the swap tomorrow, and taking pics.. hopefully giving something useful back to the USMB community that has given me so much.

Heh... I called the Subaru dealer in Tallahassee last week to get a price on the upper bushing for the pitch stopper. The parts guy had no idea what a pitch stopper was. After I explained what it is and what it does, he replies "Oh, you mean a dogbone?". That gives you an idea of the great selection of parts I have here in Florida. Anyways, after checking to make sure Subaru imported cars to the US before 89 (another thing he didnt believe) he came back and said it would be $73.91 + freight. $73.91 for a tiny piece of rubber! He confirmed that price is for the bushing, and not the whole stopper assembly. Thats definately overpriced. I ended up grinding on some aluminum stock and made a hard bushing. Total price $0 + an hours work to make the bushing.

I can tell its halloween... the dead are returning from the grave....

Kickass. Wish I could find something like that in the junkyards around here. Best find was an XT Turbo.. but theres no such thing as a "salvage" title here in Flarda. Cant wait to see pix...

Well, thats what I run.. a Vulcan wheel lift. I usually keep my dollies on the truck, but it does take absolutely forever to set them up. In 90% of the places I pull from, its less than a 1/4 mile jog to a "safe spot" where I can do whatever I need to do without major fears of people knocking me off. The "jog" is always at low speed <25mph, as I usually dont even strap it down till I get to my safe spot. Just pick it up and go. From what I've been reading, the general consensus is to not ride 2up for any distance.. but theres a few of you offering other suggestions. Pretty much, what would be the odds the tranny would be reduced to a paperweight if this <1/4 mile jog at <25mph was taken? I understand there would be wear issues with the center diff.. but as long as it drives okay tomorrow its all good with my bossman.

I know we're talking about the EA82 here, but RAM has a dual carbed EA81 on their site. You could probably drop them a line to see how its all put together, and clone that for your EA82.

lol - I think the lack of sunlight up there in AK is making somebody a little touchy. As for me, its 3:30am..and this smartass needs to go back to sleep.

The only problem with it, is that after X amount of time, results from previous searches (searchids) are purged. Being a mod, you should know that. :-p heh mtnman38: Try searching for "5 speed swap" within this forum. You'll find plenty of results.

I was going to make a long thought out reply.. but the train derailed about halfway through.. so I'm gonna go get some more caffiene and leave two words. Dump it.

When it comes to the subie, I dont have too much experience with the clutch assembly. But.. Centerforce DF clutches are kickass on the Datsun Z cars.. and I found that they make a DF for the ea81 series soob.. so I should assume they would be similar. I have plans on installing one of those dual friction wonders in meh Brat when whats in there now wears out, or when I get the $9000 saved up for one of those 160hp engines from RAM.

Dang.. it is getting near halloween... things are being brought back from the dead all over the place!

Now the coil wouldnt have too much to do with your filter getting clogged. Nor would the exhaust heater. All it does is pull warmed air (not exhaust) from the stovepipe thats wrapped around the manifold to let warm air into the intake. Since it isnt exhaust, but air from around the pipe.. theres no reason why it could be the culprit. I'm useless for a possible solution.. but I am useful for knocking out what it aint. Heh.. it could always be that "thick" air out there in LA.

TTT I know theres some people that have answers for me.

Yep yep. Its something you'll learn to deal with and work around if you decide not to fix it. Heh.. in meh Brat, third gear happens to be right about where my girlfriends knees are.. I wont mention where reverse is.

Going by the video, the horn doesnt sound that awful low, but at the same time, you hafta remember cars today are built just about air tight.. takes a lot of noise to get inside; especially if its a youngin thats got their hip hop turned up so loud it vibrates the loose body panels on the Subie when you're sitting next to them at a red light. The hi/low horns on my Brat are loud... as loud as they were designed to be.. but isnt loud enough to pass today. Fortunately I dont have safety/emissions where I'm at.. so its all good for me. If nothing else, run up to AutoZone or whatever and pick up a set of el cheapies just to pass inspection. As for the fuel tank... I've never heard of them pressurizing the tank for anything; at least on the older vehicles. I do know most states will leak test the cap. This might have to do with the lines that tie into the evaporative emission control system (EECV, charcoal canister). Check those lines.. they're notorious for getting brittle and cracking on the Datsun Z, I can only think they'd do the same on the Subaru. Cheers.

Howdy yall. For my day job, I have the joy of being a wrecker operator. I wont tell you what area of expertise my job falls under, but I will say I dont make too many friends when I show up to pick up a car. I know that theoretically, all the later model AWD Subies need to be towed 4 up. At least thats how the manual puts it. But my question is this: I've heard rumors, mainly involving the WRX, that there is some sort of pin that you can remove on the back half of the tranny that would effectively disengage the rear axles from the center section, making it FWD. Is this true? I've also heard rumors, (unconfirmed by anybody but my connection at the local dealer) that AWD models can be towed 2 down (rear on the ground, neutral tranny, front in wheellift) as long as you dont exceed 8-10mph, as anything beyond would cause the viscous center section to wind up. Any truth to this rumor? I know that the Honda CRV FT4WD system uses engine vacuum to engage the clutchpacks. You remove the vac line from the tranny, it frees the rear end. Replace the line when you're done, and the rear reengages next time the engine cranks. I'm curious if theres something similar with the AWD subies. I figured I'd ask, so as to expand my knowledge about the AWD system..and to make my job easier.

F*** you! Daddy got lots of money buy me nother car what evah! lol

DOH! Heh... you had to tell me that sticky clutches exist for the 81. Now I wont be able to sleep for the next couple days as I'll be too busy dreaming up possible setups..