RavenTBK

More guys? Hell, all I see is more guys. The whole board is a dang sausage fest. We need some more hot single ladies that run EA81s....or at least enjoy the jumpseats in a Brat. Emphasis on single, as I've seen a handful of hotties in Subies over the years, but most are married, or firmly attached at the hip. /end daydream

That "preview" sounds just about good enough for me to plan a trip out to CO.

Its not required that you do so, however it doesnt hurt. Can never have too much juice. Heres the thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24227 And heres the USRM page: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64613 Just remember to upgrade your harness while you're at it. It IS possible to put too much juice through too small a pipe. Ask me how I know. Cheers!

Actually, since he's got an EA81 (according to his profile), there isnt a star wheel in the drum, unless I'm missing something. Most of the EA81s I've looked into have a square peg poking out the bottom backside of the drum under a dust cover that you turn to adjust the drums. But yeah, other than that little detail, I have no clue about the thump. Now if it was a thump, and dragging, it'd make more sense to me. Swap out to rear discs and call it a day.

Things I want, but havent been able to get as of yet: From the front marker lights (corner lamps), I want the twisty bulb base. Its a short wire, that runs from the bulb base about 6 inches up into the fender to a "T" plug. Want em both. "Subaru" front fender badges, if they're in halfway decent shape. Want both of those too. And, if its a 4spd 4x4, I need the clutch fork from the front of the tranny. The nipples where my hill holder cable attach to broke off, so I need a new one with nipples. Thx.

Actually, its funny as hell when you get pulled over, and the cop walks up to the passenger side of the car to ask for your license. I want one too.

First rate bunch of blokes in my book. :cool:

IMO, for $1650, you could completely replace your exhaust system with regular pipe on BOTH your subies several times over in the next 10 years. Personally, unless I was building a show car, or a weekend racer, I'd just do it on the cheap....but thats just me.

Thats how my Brat is now. I have to insert the key all the way, then pull it back out just past the first "bump" to be able to turn the key. matts8008, did you try something similar?

+1!

Yep, the topic is it. My brain has died. How the heck can I tell a Hitachi from a NipponDenso dizzy, without having the cap to look at? I've got two, both are wore out (bushings and vac cans), both without the caps. (Apparently I misplaced the cap when I pulled it out of the old motor.) And apparently I must be blind, as I fail to see any identifying marks on either. I'm debating on just buying a fresh "new" one from Philbin outright (ND:$249!), so I can get on with my life, and then send in one for a rebuild to have as a spare. So, in order to not sound like an idiot when I call in to send in the repair, how can I tell which is which? Cheers from underneath the bag.

Install a lift kit. 6" kit with 30" tyres makes for plenty of space underneath, no jacks/stands needed. But yeah, the plywood trick for the stands would work fine. Myself, I have 4 of those super small 500#/ea stands, and found that a cinder block laid on its side to be a stable perch for my other cars that I still have to jack up to get under. Least your gravel driveway is dry, I get the joy of working in a never-drying mud puddle. Stupid ground feels dry, till you drop to your knees and the water soaks up through your pants. I end up using one of those cheapie blue tarps from wally world, to which the water still soaks up, but takes much longer to do.

Bah, its no problem, actually turns tighter than my Brat. Just go faster and grab that handbrake.

As with two others on USMB right now, I'm in the middle of a CCR engine swap as well. If you dont know, on my Brat, its completely without the emissions garbage. Just ran with a carby, dizzy, and block. I stripped all the parts I could do without digging too deep. Now, with the new block, and having to take everything apart anyways, I'm wanting to rid the engine compartment of the remaining eyesores. I've got a template made for an EGR delete plate, going on Monday to have it cut out of 1/4" aluminum plate. I've got plugs for all the little vacuum nipples on the intake, as the only vac line thats required will be for the dizzy, from the ported nipple under the Weber. My question is with the coolant passages within the intake. Right in the center, under the carby mount is a small (1/4"?) hose, that twists around to a film canister size device (thermo-valve of some kind?), that connects to a T that is connected to the outlet side of the water pump...where the coolant flows to the heater core. I just need to know if this small hose is required for anything as far as proper operation of the intake? I'm in a warm climate, so I fail to see what this small bleed hose is used for, as I assume its to give heat to the base of the carb... but I could be wrong like usual. Can I safely remove this hose/thermo-valve thing and plug its nipple on the intake and block off the T fitting on the other end? EA81 gods, what is your answer?

This was mentioned in another thread, which I just cant remember which right now, but there are "spacer blocks" that exist out there that will allow you to remove the ASV system completely. My new engine from CCR includes a pair of these. Would be much cleaner, and possibly easier to do, but would cost $35(?) instead of 0.50+wire+gas. Just a thought.

Okay, heres a howto for another car. A Honda Accord CB7 body (90-93). Granted, its not a Subaru, however, the techniques are similar.... as hell, it all came from Japan right? It should help someone along... Warning: 56k, go make a sandwich. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=59176 Cheers!

Look here, its in the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49975

Absolutely! Grab any/all info you can and post up. The more info thats on the board the better it is. We all know what fits, but a little more detail on measurements and stuff would be excellent.

Didnt you know that cool names and coloured plastic adds at least 20hp?

I would like to echo the above, in that you should get a friend with a real truck, or rent one for this experience. I've had to pull my old, now crushed '93 Nissan Altima 20 miles back home because the alarm system freaked out and killed the ignition in the middle of the road. At the time, my Bronco was tranny-less, and all I had was my Brat. I pushed the race car into the grass, and used my race trailer (steel, dual axle two plank dovetail, utility boxes and 6x occupied tire rack up top) to retrieve the Altima. Trailer itself weighed close to 1000#, with the car being 2900#... the Brat did a good job with 4-lo, 2wd was a non-starter. Stopping was scary as hell. But it did what it was supposed to do... got the Altima home, albeit very slowly. So yeah, get a real truck to tow whatever you need to tow. Only use the Subaru if you're in a pinch and have no other options.

Thanks for the info GD. The reasoning behind these questions is just to confirm all that I've read. I'm wanting to get a fresh motor from CCR, and as expected, they had no issues with doing EA71 pistons in a fresh EA81 block, however, they are difficult to find, causing a build time of 2+ weeks. Now, when I mentioned SPFI pistons for the increased compression and them being easier to find, the conversation went south.. seems as though they've never heard of that swap, and they seemed rather timid about getting it done. Emily said they'd call me back on it a couple days ago.. *shrugs* Its not like I'm calling them up wasting their time "window shopping".. I'm actually wanting to get something moving, and wanted to arm myself with the correct information before I call them back again. The final goals with this (although irrevalent at this stage) is an EA81 that I can do a bi-fuel propane swap on. High enough compression to make the propane more efficient, but not so high that I cant run it on pump gas if I needed to. And since I have no real knowledge of doing an internal buildup myself, I'd just as soon pay CCR to build a good motor and swap it in myself. Hehe... my current motor is still hanging by a chain from a tree in my backyard.

Thats one of my main points. The Subie can go places that a fullsize cant. I'd show them up by attempting some narrow passages and steep hillclimbs. I also own a fullsize Ford... a Bronco. With mud grips, there isnt too many places I cant get to with it.. save over a lake, or inclines sharper than my approach/departure angles. (Oh, and psbtw, I run my Bronco on the quad trails too.. just kinda hang off one side or the other. ) The Subie's good points are its size, and its weight. Its small enough to go anywhere, and light enough to get over anything. Use those to your advantage.

Sweet. That'd save me on shipping vs all these badass aussie ones. Bradenton is only a few hours south of me. I need to review the budget again. My crude math last night totalled all the mods I want to do at well over what I've got available. But isnt that always the way.

Mounted winch and everything. Thats actually the kind of thing I'm looking for! Looks badass like Subarino's.. but with the winch plate too. How much was that, and/or where do you live so I can come steal it? Err.. where can I get one? As for the rest of you, lets see some more pics!

Anybody actually physically measured the dimensions of the EA71, EA81, and EA82 SPFI pistons? I've called up CCR to actually get the ball rolling on my replacement motor (with swapped pistons to bump up compression), and heard some other things. And taking into consideration that wives tales are spread frequently on message boards as facts, I just wanted to ask for some hard confirmations. Here's what I've read/heard/studied on multiple boards (not just USMB), and am now wanting confirmation on: * compression can be bumped to ~9.5:1 by using 82SPFI pistons in the EA81. * ~9.0:1 is possible by using 1600 (EA71) pistons in the EA81. * EA82 SPFI pistons are a more desireable swap as the oil ring lands are stronger than those on EA71 pistons. * EA82 pistons have weaker oil ring lands than EA81 pistons * EA71, and EA82 SPFI pistons are 100% swappable into the EA81. * EA82 pistons are prone to cracking, as their overall construction is not on par with the EA71/EA81. Here's some threads about piston swaps that has gotten me to the confused point I am at now. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65756 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65720 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63761 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42164 And this one has a post from ShawnW that goes against all the others (1600 pistons yield 9.5?): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39966 I'd rather not hear speculation, just hard facts, preferably by firsthand experience. Thx.