RavenTBK

Yep.. still truckin along. Just had some issues over the past week that have kept me offline. Here's what I've gotten since 7/5: "Here's the upper strut mount bolted in place" click for larger- 800x600@130k "This is how I determined the proper position for the three bolt holes for the Impreza upper strut" click for larger- 800x600@104k "Here's another look at the pattern I made out of plywood" click for larger- 800x600@95k

as usual, click the image above for a high res version.. 800x600@134k

Right.. all this talk of others about timing and distributors has got me thinking of when I swapped in my new dizzy a couple months back. The dizzy I picked up from the salvage had a frozen diaphragm. No amount of vacuum applied to the hose moved the arm. No biggie.. I needed the Brat running, so I installed it and got it to idle on its own and not backfire under acceleration. A little bit of high speed pinging, but completely driveable. I then took it up to my buddy's shop to grab his timing light to make sure I was at least close to being right on. Base timing was at 26*! At the moment, that explained the high speed pinging. I adjusted it down to 10*, idle was smooth as silk, so I tried a run around the lot. The slightest bit of load made for angry bucking and backfiring. Then down to 8*.. same deal, same results. I asked my buddy about it, and he pulled out one of his thick fancy dusty books off the shelf. He showed me a line in the book where the base timing for a nonturbo EA81 WITHOUT vac advance was 22*. I found that to be odd, but tried it anyways. Sure enough, setting to just beyond 22 worked wonders. Under revvs, the mechanical advance bumps it up to near 27* Now, the question: Although I've been running like this for a couple months now, and has been doing just fine although eating more fuel than usual, is this "bad"? I've since managed to free up the vac advance mechanism, but have found the diaphragm to be busted, so I've still got it all plugged off. How difficult is a repair/replacement? I know I cant find one at my local parts house... :-\

Yes, two opposing lugs line up already. No, 99% of 6 lug setups from all manufacturers are the same specs, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota, Mazda, Isuzu. Only difference would be the backspacing you'd have to match to the Subie requirements to keep from rubbing on your springs. I'd trust wheels drilled back to 4 lugs just fine. Although, it looks dumb. Seeing two/three extra empty holes in your wheel.. Yes, drilled hubs are a lot cooler. :cool: Brumby Boy: Its not difficult. It can be done in your backyard. Although, you'll get much nicer results if you let a machine shop do it. See SubaruBrat's writeup on his site on the details. Perfect description, with pics. http://www.subarubrat.com/6lugconv.htm

Having some random thoughts of my own about timing and found this thread from a few weeks back. Ever get it fixed 86?

lol.. I've gotten it taken care of. No worries mate. Click on the image for a larger version, 800x600@120k.

Thats good. What I've done is just wallow them out to make em round, then hammering a next-size-up torx bit into the rounded out opening. I know the screws are a super small, oddball size. I wasnt able to find a replacement in my local hardware stores.. I just made a mental note that when the pump seals finally wear out again, to just replace the dang thing with a new pump, as by then it would have more than enough miles on it to justify the expense.

Were you able to get the phillips head screws out to split the pump case without stripping the heads? Out of the three pumps I've rebuilt now, all three of em I've stripped the heck out of those phillips heads cause the screws were too frickin tight.

...awaiting pics...

Awesome! An actual list. I am going to swipe it and add it to the writeup, with a "thanks to" of course. Its funny you should post a link to fordfuelinjection.com. Ryan is one of my friends from fullsizebronco.com. To all of you, consider this another shameless plug for Ryan's site. He sells some good stuff.

30x9.5s right now, and gonna beat on some 31x1350s when I can afford it. Yes, its about gearing, but its also actually accepting the fact that you're not driving all that fast of a car in the first place.

The sender is on the bottom side of the oil pump. Got a nice single wire going to it. It just screws into the pump. I'd grab a mechanical gauge and check the pressure just to be sure. Screwing in a mech gauge is much easier than dropping the sump. Just for comparison, my EA81, running 15/40 Rotella, first crank in the 80* Florida morning yields 80psi for the first minute or so afterwhich it drops to 50psi as the block begins to warm up. Hot idle is about 30psi. I have a mechanical gauge installed in the cluster.

To save a few clicks.. How about a shot of that ID plate I see stamped on the compressor housing?

Thats exactly how I've found to be the fastest in my impromptu street runs around here. 1/2low 2high(2wd) till I tach out around 4500. Hell yeah with spanking the honda and GM pickemups.

Each and every day. Meh Bronco only nets me 19mpg if I'm unloaded and easy on it. So the Brat gets all the daily beatings. About 90 miles per day with plenty of 4low ("6 speeds of fury") launches. And I can still light up the front end to show off against the honda punkz if I need to.

If its really the original engine, it should have solid lifters.. according to all that I've read about the year by year changes. Then OTOH, again if its really all original, the valvecovers would have stickers just under the breather tube with big letters "dont adjust the valves" if its a hydraulic engine. A third way, again if its the original engine, look at the emissions sticker up under the hood. If the "Valve Lash" adjustment is 0, then its hydraulic. If it says .010/.014, its solid lifter. Adjusting the valves is easy foscheezy. The Haynes/Chiltons description of how to do such is more than adequate. Do you really need a howto?

Yep yep. Most likely you're 180* out as Qman says. Go back and try again. Any chance you got the wires mixed up as well? Triple check those.. use the diagram I attached in your original thread. Bring #1 to TDC like I've explained in the last thread, and like how others have explained. Remove the dizzy and try again.

"snug" is how much. dont go crazy, and yet dont stop at the first sign of resistance. its a cork gasket.. so it doesnt take all that much pressure to seal up. oh, and for reference above, the EA81 has only two bolts per side. installation technique is the same. "snug".

$80!? Damn.. I musta scored the jackpot then. Mine ripped in half while I was attempting a hillclimb that resulted in me being wedged against the wall of the trail. Anywho.. a brand new one from my usually overpriced dealer ran me under $30. The folks at Autozone looked at me funny when I asked for the part. The computer claimed no such thing existed. Took about 4 days for the dealer to get it. Grand total was $30.24 as I recall after the governor took his cut. I've got pics from when my OE arrived with a part number and everything. Unfortunately taken before I became more "organized" with my photos. Its here on my laptop.. somewhere. If I find it, I'll let you know so you can compare. I myself am going to have to engineer a fix for my ragjoint. The "extension" makes all the angles funky, and forces the rajgjoint to bend and flex like a universal because the steering rod isnt perfectly straight into the rack. I know the new one cant last too long like this. *sigh*

The answer is simple.. your exhaust isnt loud enough. I've got the standard electric AND the A/C aux electric wired to come on as one.. and I can still hear the tapping of the valves and the exhaust note just fine. Only time I ever hear my fans is when I'm idling for extended periods.. and even then I keep a close eye on that temp gauge and prop the bonnet to make sure they're actually coming on. Maybe you heard someone's electric with a bird stuck in the grille or something?

As I understand it, yes, you're correct. Just unbolt, possibly scrape away any "stuck" gasket material, and button it back up. No need to change the oil, although its a good time to do so since you're already under there. I'm an EA81 guy.. so dont take my word as gold. I did flip through my manuals to see if there was anything obvious I might've missed with regards to the EA82.. but didnt see anything out of the ordinary. Undo the cover bolts, remove and replace the gasket and you're done.

EA81 wagon/hatch is teh way to goes!!!111

This thread confused the hell out of me as well. After reading it for the 19th time, I think I gather what he's wanting.. He's wanting to have the benefits of a regular dual range, (fwd, 4wd) AND be able to experience unlocked 4wd (AWD) in both ranges as well. FWD 4HI (locked center section) 4LOW (locked center section) AWD HIGH (unlocked center section) AWD LOW (unlocked center section) Or, in other words, a D/R FT4wd RX tranny (lockable center section), but with the ability to uncouple completely and run in FWD mode only. Hopefully that assists others in understanding this seriously confusing thread.

Exactly. Oh, psbtw: NipponDenso. :-p

Oh yeah.. another tip: Always check your work! Why? Thats the only way you'll know how bad you fscked up whatever it is you were trying to repair. Seriously though.. I wasnt paying attention to detail last night adjusting the valves. When I went out to shutdown, it was tapping worse than ever. After removing the 2/4 cover this morning, it turns out I forgot to tighten the locknuts sufficiently on the #4 cylinder, and the adjusters had halfway backed themselves out. I erred on the side of caution and removed the 1/3 cover again and rechecked all the way around 1-4 for tightness and specification. All is well now.