wallaby

i have had the distributor module fail without warning - GD's test above would confirm that i have also had something dicky in the ignition switch that it would not run in the "start" ie cranking position so you would crank the engine and it would start after you released the key if it were turning quick enough i installed a push button to start and got around that. to test that you could jump the solenoid with the key on or roll start it....(push, tow....)

next hairbrained idea i have for this vehicle... i really want a tonneau cover, soft vinyl, so i can use the bed easily if i need to so i bought a used truxedo style cover off an f150 i think will get some pics of the modifications needed to make it fit, "should" work......stay tuned......

this car makes commuting fun!! and my wife said she would drive it ....i count this as a small victory figure i am saving about $1.20 per day instead of driving a full size diesel pickup stereo is replaced push bar that came with it would not fit - so its on the blue one... thinking i will get a/c hooked up before next summer...109 deg is pretty hot...... going to have it professionally polished - the guy thinks he can get it pretty good for it being metallic paint

check transmission mounts too

got the windshield in..... if you refer to the first few posts in this thread i did this one the yellow one as well sticky, messy, crappy job....... this brat had been rolled and i think the roof is pushed down a bit, so the top didn't fit real good but its in and not cracked for reference a wagon rear window gasket is really close to the same sides are the right length, about an inch short on the bottom and 1/2" on the top, just cut it in the middle and then filled the gap with windo-weld. will have to repaint around it and then i can get the interior trim in

do you mean the spiral type spring that goes behind the screw in the top? or the return spring that hooks on the side of the carb? i will try to get a pic of one of mine so you can point and grunt....

not certain about a loyale, on my Brat i have stock 2wd mazda 14" alloys with 195/75 R14 tires they work perfect with out any lift, no rubbing a 205/75 on the same rim will rub.... for reference you can fit a 245/60R14 on the back.... so any stock offset 6 lug jap pickup(mazda, nissan) rim would work- most 2wd will have 14" wheels

it the ugly bird coming along nicely.... removed carpets and bedlinered the interior, installed the GL10 seats i had, fixed the radio and not so ugly now before after still needs a windshield , rear tow hitch and some trim

got it a little more "me" drives nice, about the tightest 4 speed i have experienced... radio sucks - will have to fix that very original and brown....

..... i guess it was painted a few years ago, but the paint was "bad"?? so it has faded really badly it used to be a maroon colour. i will try to polish it and see if i can make it less pink...... getting tyres on wheels today and will see if i can mount the pushbar

I tried everything i could to resist this one... but i have it anyway..... most expensive one i have bought, but the nicest came with a pile of extra parts so i can't complain this is how it came home I am in the process of getting tires changed onto different rims and the canopy is off then to drive it seems to drive really nice, been sitting for a while filled it up with premium to see if it would clear out a bit has a new looking weber on it that runs OK but needs some tuning looking forward to just enjoying it for a while

You will need a 2 barrel hitachi manifold, adaptor plate, short air filter with clips, intake manifold gaskets, lots of screws/bolts/capplugs to block of vacumn lines. there are good threads on here about what you need and don't as far as they are concerned. will be a great upgrade - simplifies the whole engine compartment good luck!

Thanks Scott, i figured you had done it before...... didn't think there would be any issue - looks like it would work would use the front loader part - have used the hoe and its not as easy to maneuver will try to remember to take pictures....

i have a backhoe....

So, a question for the gurus/people who have done this before.. the situation: have a brat that needs engine, trans, struts, axles etc have a parts car that has all this...(as well as power steering...) is it easier(this being a relative term) to leave all this attatched to each other and lift the car off the front drivetrain or pull the parts separately i don't have a shop but i have equipment to do this (loader tractor or skidsteer) did this with a buddies mini when i was in high school and can't remember if it was easier or not, i remember the 2 of us lifted the front of the car up and off the engine. anyone done this on a sube? or do i have to be the first.....

Engine is out of the yellow one, brown one is alive again! it been about 3 years..... brown one was my first subaru - still drives like i remember.....

so i am reviving this thread for updates on the yella beast i guess its been almost 3 years...... have been using the crap out of this, has been running pretty well with very few major issues has been due for some maintanence for a while but it keeps on running. Front axle joints have deteriorated to the point of being dangerous - even at 15mph..... so it finally grabbed the wheel out of my wifes hands while approaching the bridge..... this is the result not dead but severly wounded at this point, have all i need to fix but it might be a winter project engine is getting pulled for the brown one pictured on the first page and in the background here so to fill the immediate need and expand our fleet i picked up this ugly bird from Twitch last weekend my first GL brat......brings the Brat total to 4, 50% working at the moment.... runs and drives great - a bit breezy and lots of dents will run it like this for the rest of the summer - will get busy with a windshield then... am still contemplating the direction for this one, came with fenders and such but i am considering a non-fendered or "jeep type" look with slightly bigger tires (say 27") for a little better clearance and maybe widen out the stance a bit for hillside stability

why did you get the lift if you are not going off road? you can run slightly bigger tyres with out it if thats the concern but as stated above there are few "permanent" changes even with the lift maybe a few holes drilled or such if you want to drive it - do what you want and worry about value when/if you sell it if you want an investment - put you money in the bank or a sock under the bed.

5 speed, and a block under the accellerator pedal, get a quiet exhaust - then you won't stomp the throttle to hear it roar..... driving habits are the best way to get more mpg's - i can never do it.....too much of a revhead...

i did the same as Idasho, seemed to work fine But i wholeheartedly agree with the OP 2nd easiest and most satisfying upgrade i have ever done to a vehicle

the website i pfefer would be milwaulkee tools.. they sell something called a sawzall... hacksaws do the same job for more effort angle grinder can cause other issues CUT IT OFF!!!!! get a piece of pipe from your local muffler shop, clamp some universal brackets on and you are good to go if it is the y-pipe/catalytic converter you want to get rid of - that is slightly more involved

in the interests of getting this thing going, i ran a wire from a random connector near the carb that has ignition power to the + side of the coil runs and everything works as it should for now... if i can keep it running for the next few months it will be going in for major work over the winter(trans, axles etc) hopefully can find the actual problem then...or maybe not....

Thank you - will see if that makes any sense to me .....

my offroad "utility vehicle" 82 Brat, previously...... engine fan was plugged into the pink connector near the battery(ig on power) ignition fuse under dash was replaced with a 20amp..(to deal with the extra power draw..) it stopped and would not restart, no spark. no power to coil, fuses good, fusible links etc good. after much troubleshooting i found i can jumper 12v to the coil and it will run i am guessing something got smoked but don't know where to look - wiring diagram??? can i just run a ignition on power to the coil( or into that pink conector....)or will that cause me other problems.... the coil runs on 12v right?? any idea of the current draw thinking if i do that , put a small fuse(3-5amp) in it then if there is any issue it will blow the fuse any info from the gurus?