wallaby

this is what i have,

195/75 R14 on a Mazda rim will fit perfectly without a lift this is a standard size for most compact pickups - lots of options available just for reference...a 205/75 R14 rubs pretty severly on the front

will get a pic of the barwork i built for my "farm" brat too kind of protects the trim

as long as you have enough of the clip to be a "spacer" i have just drilled right through and used a machine bolt and nut with a big washer on the bottom - only works for the ones you can get to the underside of.

in the heads under the rocker shaft - 19mm probably have to get it from the dealer

its an 85? so its a EA82???? nothing much will be of use, carb may work, seats and some interior with minor mods

have had a similar problem on 2 different brats, fuel in tank, wouldn,t come out, pump good... i opened 1 of the old tanks with a can opener to see what happened... inlet is just a tube sitting on the bottom of the tank, gets rusted/crudded up and fuel won't go though it no real way to fix as far as i have been able to determine, get another fuel tank and hope its good both times the tank came from a "hadn't run for a while" car so results of not running vary or drill a hole and put in a bulkhead type fitting so you bypass the original one

What gloyale said, I run 195/75R14 on alloy mazda own wheels, no lift, no rub. I drilled the hubs but its up to you

in addition to everything mentioned.... do check the fuel pump, i have had several that appear to work but can't keep up with the engine under load/hard accell.

yes it would fit, it is a fuel injected engine so you would either put the FI stuff in your car(if its included) or use the intake manifold and carb from your old engine. i would be kind of careful buying an EA82 with almost 200000 on it though.....i think i would rather buy one that i know runs, you could probably buy a whole car for not much more than that - then put the best parts on the best car.

i have considered this multiple times for my DL brat.....it is the only part of the GL that i would really like to have(can do without power windows etc) i have a whole GL parts car so would swap dashpad, glovebox, instrument cluster and related wiring...would probably have to remove the windshield?? BUT as stated thats a LOT of work.... i am leaning towards some fabricating on the dash and installing aftermarket gauges - but that will take some effort too but the car would still be drivable while in process have not discounted this swap completely but it is getting less attractive capillary type oil pressure gauges are cheap and easy to install what might be more attractive is an EJ22 and instruments from a legacy..........

been driving the hell out of this thing - ready for winter got new tyres for the front - now i have the same size all round, 196/75 R14 found another set of rims for $40, so i can keep my wide ones dont look as mean as the 245/60 that were on the back - but at least i can run in 4wd paint job coming when i have some time during winter

Three colors now. Anybody got a straight/non rusted drivers door and hatch? shipping might be a killer....but i have 3 hatches, they are all different colors.... maybe even a door

and whats not useful about a mounted machine gun......... but seriously.. i agree with Scott to a point - it has to be useful, and look good and it has to be useful to you and your situation and looking good is a matter of opinion.....and it doesen't matter what other people think its your car - do what you want

seats are wider, much more comfortable i have legacy seats in my Brat use rails from the 82 make a couple spacers to move the rail in (1" i believe) search - it its well documented on this site

the Mazda rims work really well, i have the alloy 14's on my brat , the subaru centre caps even fit perfect offset. +1 on the centre hole - on the alloys i just had to grind out the back side a bit to clear the tabs on the hubs

as far as i know all EA81's have the same windshields, in my experience removing and installing them.....for what its worth you salvage the glass OR the seal - not both if you want the seal remove the glass with a hammer or your boot... you could probably use the one in your old hatch to save the glass, sharp knife and cut off anything that isn't glass its an PITA to reintsall - buy a tube of 3m window weld and be very careful you should be able to get it to seal up good enough for off roading

go buy a $40 electric fuel pump and hook it up to ignition power had this problem - if it splutters/dies under load - the fuel pump is going out - still kind of works but not really replaced the fuel pump and runs great don't know how the control/relay systems works so have just bypassed it

I will agree....it makes a whole different vehicle some of my observations to add, i am not a purist - my brat is to drive! which i intend to do until it, or i cannot anymore i used the EA82 console and shift linkage - worked great, small cut at the back of the shifter hole, some mods to the radio console to make it fit used the 4 speed tranny mounts with a couple new holes drilled and some spacers under the crosmember for clearance also got the 1 piece driveline lengthened so i didn't have to mess with the carrier brg

have had this problem... decent parts store is not enough.... went to 3 parts places and a couple indusrial suppliers they are 20mm i had to go to a subaru dealer that knows about old gen soobs the nearest dealer is useless i can give you details if you like - i'm sure they could ship

answer to the original question, dual range and single range 4wd 4 speeds are exactly the same clutch, mounts, driveshaft, shifter etc will bolt straight in should be same on all ea81/gen2 body (about 81 to 84 - later on brat and hatch)

i applaud your dedication..... as noone else has pitched in i will offer what i can - my experience is with EA81's though are you trying to keep it original? you could use a weber if not - much simpler but if you must use the original - try to find an unmolested one to steal parts off and see how it works OR remove all that stuff and run the carb without the extras - there is some info on this, i tried it on a hitachi with variable success....... search around in the old gen forum - there are much more knowlegeable people in there

it's alive....... runs great, needs some carb tuning and need to "fix" the tranny mounts but its on the road

make sure you clean....... wipe down with multi purpose thinner after sanding/scotchbriting to get rid of oil etc this is most important to make the paint stick oh and lastly... have fun - something very satisfying about painting a car....

the story goes on...... engine i put i lasted about 14 miles........ don't know if i did something wrong or if there was something wrong with the engine that i didn't check..... ahh well either way ...... bought another RUNNING engine and am having a subaru master tech install it for me, should be back on the road in the next couple weeks