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Uncle Ed

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Everything posted by Uncle Ed

  1. Try Napa. Some of the Nissan's used v-belt idler pulleys. I know my 85' pick up had one. Ed
  2. Well, if you've got to go in and do an oil pump & Micky mouse gasket, then you may want to do the timing belts & water pump also. Check all the hoses (especially the small ones for the intake manifold heat & the heater return under the alternator). The oil pump for an 87 "should" fit. Ed
  3. Did it come with the idle fuel shutoff solenoid? Make sure its getting power. I've had vehicles that wouldn't fire on starting fluid but would run if you dumped gas down the carb. Ed
  4. Here is the information that may help you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/105325-engine-swap-info/ You can use the EA81 large flywheel & pressure plate with the EA82's clutch disk, or use the EA82's flywheel/clutch. However the EA81's flywheel bolts are smaller in diameter than the EA82's bolts. Ed
  5. I've striped the teeth of on one. Grabbed a set of belts from the auto parts store, put them on and drove it to work the next day. The EA82's are supposed to be a non-interference engine. So my advice to you is read the write ups on doing the timing belts, pick up a timing belt set. When your done, you can hand her the keys back with a smile knowing that it's good for another 50k miles. Ed
  6. Remember to check the gap on your plugs before you install them. Plugs/parts can be bad even if they are brand new! I assume that its an EA81, as you said you adjusted the valves. If the tach is jumpy you most likely have a broken/loose wire, or an ignition module gone (your in limp home mode now). Ed
  7. On a 86' with the carb, there is no computer. So, no codes to read. My bet is the igniter in the distributor went. That's assuming that you have a Hitachi distributor that is.
  8. Yup, that would be your leak, and yes thats the pulley you would use for the alternator conversion.
  9. Well, I don't know about anyone else, but I've been using fuel line to replace them. I know of several other post where they've done the same. Ed
  10. Well, welcome to the forum. First things first. On the front of your intake manifold is 2 small hoses, their about 1/4" ID. theres one that runs from your thermostat over to the block, when it cracks or leaks it can spray it coolant all over that side of the engine. Next rinse the engine off. If your using the green antifreeze it will glow yellowish green under a black light, (hint, hint). Ed
  11. Did you modify the stock air cleaner to fit the weber as was done in this other post? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142864-1978-subaru-brat-from-death-to-life-and-everything-in-between/page-7?do=findComment&comment=1279470 Ed
  12. Theres just 2. Rockauto has them for less than $4 each. It sounds to me like you've already found where the leak is. Ed
  13. Check the seals around your front axles, your trans and differential share the same dipstick. It's the seals on your differential that are leaking while you drive. Ed
  14. rockauto.com This was for the rear of the wifes car, so it should be the same for yours. 1987 SUBARU GL 1.8L H4 SOHC NATIONAL 513056 (513056:P) Wheel Bearing Wholesaler Closeout - Private Label Pkg. - 30 Day Warranty $ 19.83 $ 0.00 2 $ 39.66 NATIONAL 225005 Wheel Seal $ 4.14 $ 0.00 2 $ 8.28 NATIONAL 224015 Wheel Seal Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty $ 2.23 $ 0.00 2 Ed
  15. Here you go. I hope this helps. Weber DGEV 32/36: http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=43928.060 Ed
  16. What you have high lighted, is the air injection manifold. it feeds additional air into the exhaust. Many have put a quarter under the nut shown to block them off, others remove it and put a block off plate where it bolts to the head. Ed
  17. At the risk of repeating some of the other posts. This is how it's done. Undo the four nuts that hold the headlight in. Remove the two clips holding the lens on. Now slowly and carefully heat the glue seam with a heat gun (less than $20 @ harbor freight). Once it gets to the point of being to hot to touch, Carefully pry the lens from the reflector. You can then clean it with your choice of cleaners. remember to clean the old glue from the lens & reflector. You can then reseal/glue it with RTV, Use the clips hold the lens till RTV cures. Ed
  18. That's for your AC clutch. There should be a matching connector on the wire harness. Ed
  19. Cylinder hone, a Ridge reamer to remove the ridge that may be at the top of the cylinder, and a piston ring compressor. Though I'd recomend that you have the cylinders checked to see if they are out of round. Ed
  20. You say your car has a weber carb on it! I'd almost be willing to bet you money that the gasket under carb is leaking coolant into the intake. Thats why your getting your white cloud when you make that turn. If your thinking it's a cracked head or blown HG, then find someone (radator shop) to do a block test for exhaust gasses in the cooling system. Normally If it's a head or HG, then you'll hear a gurgling from the air in the heater core at start up also. The other places that like to leak are the intake mounting gaskets, where it bolts to the heads. Ed
  21. If you're trying to take the oil pump off to replace the micky mouse gasket, there are notches in the edge of the pully to allow a 10mm socket to get on the bolts. They may be covered up by the timing belt, remove it. If you want to replace the pump seal on the shaft then use a strap wrench to hold the pully while you loosen the nut. And quit beatting up on yourself, I'm a retired mechanic (heavy equipment) and every machine is differant. Subi's are in a differant class all by themselves. Ed
  22. To answer Jono's question the bolt patern is the same, however the EA82 uses larger bolts, plus you would have to transfer the timing marks from the EA81. You would be better off getting the EA81 4x4 flywheel and pressure plate and using the EA82 clutch disc. The motor mounts will work just fine. As for the radiator, the mounts are differant but it can be made to fit. I'll find the pictures of the wifes car, EA81 into a 87' EA82 GL, 3AT,PS, PB. The reason for changing intakes is the larger carb mounting. Subaru made cars here in the US till 87 with the EA81 "IIRC", and where I live I don't have to worry about DEQ. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/105325-engine-swap-info/ Ed http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/2710-ea81alt003/
  23. As long as the 85' was a carb engine it will work just fine, you'll have to use the coil from the 84' and move it to the mounting holes on the passinger side. If the 85' has power steering then you'll ether have to find a power steering pump for the EA81 or make a new mount for it. There is a write up in the section on engines on what fits what. Also do a search for EA81 swaps. BTDT. Ed
  24. Have you checked for a bad plug? Which cylinder is it? How about a compression test? Ed
  25. IIRC they are in the kick pannels just in front of the drivers/ passingers doors. Ed
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