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Uncle Ed

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Everything posted by Uncle Ed

  1. IIRC Subaru did away with the water control valve on 85+ cars, instead they use an air mix door to control the temp. The temp cable runs down from the dash to a cam by the gas peddle. If your car dosn't have AC then you could pop the tube off between the blower and the heater to check if the door is fully open. Also check that the passinger side vent is closed. This question has been asked before but for the life of me I can't find the posts right now, try searching for " no heat".
  2. As long as the tranny oil is full you should be ok. My 86' likes to howl when the temps get down in the 20's until it gets warmed up, of corse I'm chattering too . Ed
  3. Hey Speedy IIRC what you want are Nitril O-rings, It's the same stuff that they use in the brake rebuild kits. Ed
  4. The bolts were used to fill the gap between the post and the nut. If they had had a metric tap they could have made a threaded tab that would have done the same thing. Its hard to tell what they may have had mounted, push bar, spare tire mount, etc. Ed
  5. If you read some of the postings on turbo EA82's they had their share of problems, so your only going to get a little bang for your bucks. If your looking for a daily driver then I would look for a non turbo engine. The people to ask would be GD and Miles Fox, as they both have experence with the turbo engines. Heres a post that you may want to read and/or follow.

     

    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126592

     

    Ed

  6. I did that to the wifes 87' wagon with the 3at. If you put a weber on the EA81 you won't notice the 11 horsepower difference. There are several people on here that have already done this conversion. Ed
  7. I'd use the non-hardening form-a-gasket on the oil pan. Manual gauge in my 86' shows between 5-10psi when hot. I just figure the TOD is a timer, time to change the oil. Ed
  8. Ok, Time for a quick tip. There are dyes that you can get at your auto parts stores (NAPA, O'Reilly's, etc..) that will show up under a black light, you know the green look to your antifreeze, well thats it. The coolant leaks will look almost yellow/green, and the dye for the oil, well those will be orange. Clean things up and pull the covers first, then have a party hunting leaks, and if you can park it in a dark place, or put a tarp over the hood it will make it even easer to spot them. IIRC the dyes cost $3-$4 each. The price for the black light bulbs varies, IIRC i paid $8 for mine. BTDT. Ed
  9. Hey GD: Did you know that you can get the Butyl- rubber sealer in a caulking tube at the hardware and marine supply stores? At the hardware they call it gutter & flashing sealer. Its made by DAP Inc. And it available in black, white, or gray. 10.1oz tubes. It costs about $6 a tube. For some folks the hardware store maybe a little closer to home. Ed
  10. Well, thats one good guess from Northwet. Another would be the steering rack mount rubber has slipped out and is letting the rack move up and down which changes the toe-in. Ed
  11. Ok, I guess I'll jump back into this conversation again. I posted this same question before, however, this time I've got a bunch of links for you. So, put on you thinking caps and read through these. http://www.businessweek.com/print/lifestyle/content/may2009/bw20090514_058678.htm http://www.fuel-testers.com/fuel_additives_gas_treatments.html http://www.e85fuel.com/e85101/faqs/conversion.php http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp So far I tend to like the marine sta-ble. Thoughts? :-\ Ed
  12. If you read GD's write up then you've seen the pictures of the wife's car. EA81 engine, stock carb and intake. Single groove pulley. The difference between using a single or a double groove pulley is how much you grind or file off of the spacer. I don't know about the clearance with the A/C compressor, but the engine in her car uses the stock mounting with the compressor removed. Ed
  13. Best advice, clean, and clean. The threads in the block, the head bolts, and the gasket surfaces! Use Fel-Pro head gaskets installed dry. NO Sealer/RTV, ect.. And in case I've missed something there are a lot of other posts on the same subject, head gaskets, over heating, (search). Its also a good time to flush your heater core, and get that nasty little hose under the intake too. You'll need to go to the dealer to get the rubber coated copper O-rings for your cam towers. Ed BTDT, 86' EA82
  14. Have you done a block test to see if its a seeping/leaking head gasket? Any gurgling noise from the heater when you rev the engine? It could also just be a bad thermo, ( seen them bad right out of the box!) Ed
  15. Now that is a SWEEEET find, and d/r too! Count the number of turns lock to lock of the steering wheel, if its 4.8 then its got the variable rack. No need for power steering (got one in my 86'). Ed
  16. Mike After you check the trans for cracks, check the vacuum control module. Its on the pass side of the trans. They are known to leak and give the same shifting problems that you've described. They are fairly cheep. Remember to use a new o-ring when you replace it! Ed
  17. I need to figure out why she's making this strange growly/grindy noise from the engine. Back when she would idle, it all of a sudden would start making a noise like it was trying to grind up something through an auger. Kinda like the ice maker in your fridge when you are getting crushed ice out of the door. It only does is for like 30 to 40 seconds and then it stops. Doesn't do it all the time, it is a very random kind of thing. Very strange.. Bobby Use a 3' length of hose to hear where the sound is coming from, alt, water pump, power steering pump, starter. Sometimes it may not be real loud, but may still be grinding enough to hear it through the hose. Ed
  18. Yacolt, WA. Yup, 2 1/2 miles east of no where! 86' EA82 DR wagon, 87' EA81 wagon.
  19. Well, the 86' has been an on-going project since last may. Today it got a 4 wheel alignment, so now its handling so much nicer. As for mods, rear disc conversion, Gauges, Fog lights.
  20. This is an old post that I found in another forum that I belong to, and I thought I'd share it. It applies to both the Historic and old generation subarus. Its about ethanol in the gas and what its doing to the older cars. I know in some countries, they run 100% ethanol and that there are conversions available for some vehicles. http://www.businessweek.com/print/lifestyle/content/may2009/bw20090514_058678.htm I've been using the Marine formula STA-BIL in my engines. http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/default.aspx Any thoughts? :-\ Is there something better to use? Ed
  21. 2 of the ground wires on the aftermarket radio will not be used? Miles I'm is the process of put a Kenwood deck in the wifes car, and according to the manual for it "The unit may be damaged or fail to work if you share the ( - ) wires or ground them to any metal part in the car." His best bet is the write up in the USRM. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50840
  22. The rubber coated copper one was a dealer ONLY item IIRC, but I can't find the part number. I've Been using the nitril o-rings from the farm supply(for some reason I keep thinking they were 1/8"). Ed
  23. Its to dark for a pic. If you want you can come up sat and see if its something worth messing with.

  24. IIRC closed deck. I'll try and grab a pic of it with my cell. I don't know what condition its insides are in, as it had dropped a lifter and was running on 3 holes.

    Ed

  25. The pulley is from a single belt alternator for an EA81 the difference is the spacer. The pulley from a nissan pick-up is the same size.

    Ed

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