Alphius

Right on the I-5 corridor, west of the Cascades. Thanks guys! I like this wagon a lot.

Body has 244k miles. Motor only 55k though. '96 Legacy Wagon

Durania got it right. 16" 2.5RS wheels. Body has 244k miles on it! And original paint still.

I have an '87 Turbo Wagon, and I decided I wanted something newer and nicer. I already have a Camaro that's a project, and I didn't need two project cars. It's a 1996 Subaru Legacy wagon. AWD and 5-speed. I just went skiing with it last weekend and it did great in the snow! The plan for the next few years is to drive it as is. It's a stock 2.2l that runs really good, only 55k on the motor. Maybe in a few years when I'm all rich and everything I'll make it a sleeper and drop an STi drivetrain in it. Here's some pics:

I have a full set also. They fit fine on my '87 Wagon. Weren't they only supposed to go on EA81 and earlier correctly? Something about not clearing the disk brakes I thought. Oh well, mine work great. Maybe I'm just lucky. ivantruckman, Yes, they do have a "J" logo on every wheel. One spoke per wheel will have it facing out closer to the bead than to the center of the wheel. They are also "flatter" across the spokes than the more "rounded" wagon wheels which were Subaru stock wheels.

Hey! This was actually a good friend of mine that owned this car. I didn't expect the buyer to be on USMB though Nice to see you here. I know quite a bit about what was done with the car, so if you have any questions about stuff on it, go ahead and ask me. I just might know. One big thing that comes to mind is, it's got a homebuilt manual boost controller that I built, and it's set to around 11-12 PSI instead of the stock 7. The motor has also been fully resealed. Good luck with the car! I was sad to see it go when my friend sold it. You got a great deal too... I almost bought it from him for my '87 T-Wagon. EJ22T swap FTW

Maybe he's gonna rewire the markers to be turn signals? That would make sense to me if I were to get rid of my turn signals. Use a dual filament bulb and some wiring work. I've never really like how Subaru didn't do that from the factory...

Awesome! Looks like it's in pretty good shape. Still have the air suspension? My friend wants to get an XT or XT6 too. Hope you like it!

I was doing some searching about my 5speed D/R swap, and came across a thread from a long time ago with unbelievable prices on Subaru parts. The website was PartsQuick.com, and everyone was convinced it was a scam, because they were offering things like clutch discs for $9 and several sensors and gaskets for $.02. Some people decided to give it a shot just to see what would happen, and their parts were actually shipped! Anyway, after all that, I decided to give it a shot since I need a new pressure plate and clutch disk anyway. The prices weren't quite as good as before, but I ended up ordering a clutch, PP, and shaft bearing for $65. That was last night, and this morning I got tracking information and order confirmation emails from them. So I'm hoping to have scored a great deal on some overstocked company's parts. If you want, I'll keep you posted on whether I receive the parts or not. Should be here by Thursday or so. ALSO: I just found the thread again. Here ya go. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85996

OK, let me get this straight then. All Turbo Subarus use a 25 spline axle on the transmission end. All non-Turbo use a 23 spline axle. Therefore, with a non-Turbo tranny, I will need to also grab the correct 23 spline axles. Will there be any problems with gear ratios besides the mismatched front/rear diffs? And is it possible to drive temporarily with the front 3.9 and rear 3.7 as long as I don't engage 4WD? Thanks.

OK, I'm looking for a parts car now to do the swap from. I'm thinking it will be cheaper to try to find a $2-300 car to get all my parts from than to try to piece it together. Just double-checking on needed parts, I will have to have: 1. transmission 2. clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, etc. (bolts) 3. driveline and rear diff 4. speedo cable and clutch cable 5. pedal box for 5-speed 6. 5-speed x-member And I won't need new axles? My 3AT axles will be fine for a 5-speed? So, basic procedure would go, remove axles and driveline from 3AT, unbolt and drop the AT with x-member, then put the 5-speed up there and hook everything back up, pedals and such. Will I need to do anything about my engine computer? Or does it not care about the type of tranny? I can bypass my neutral/clutch safety switch to get it started I know. Thanks a lot, you guys rock. I'm glad to be on here.

EDIT: I've decided to go with a 5-speed swap. It seems easy enough. Just scroll on down and read my next post. Hey, I've got a Turbo Wagon with the 3AT having some trouble. Here is my previous thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94532 Anyway, I got a new valvebody in it today, and still the same issues. Can anyone help me figure out what is wrong? I may need a new transmission, if so I'd like to get a 5-speed in it. Is that fairly easy? I have lots of car experience, just on domestics not imports.

Thanks a lot for all your help guys. Fluid is good, red and smells fine. I guess I'll be taking the transmission apart soon and getting that valvebody out. I can do this in-car, right? I've had tons of tranny experience with Chevy transmissions, I'm just trying to beware of anything different on this car. Again, great to be part of this group. Thanks guys.

Thank you very much for your offer Skip. If you have the time to look in your FSM for me, I would love to know more about what may be busted up. I don't relish the idea of tearing the pan off without at least an inkling of where to look for damage. And I hope very much that I do not have to pull the transmission to fix whatever may be the problem. In a perfect scenario, I would like to take the pan off, pop in a new (junkyard) part, and be on my merry way in half an hour. Knock on wood...

I have verified that the shifter goes through all positions just fine, and moves the linkage as it should, corresponding to how far I move the shifter. The linkage is actually solid steel rod, not a cable, and seems to be in the correct place. My bet is something is chewed up internally because the tranny seems to engage all of it's gears just fine, in sequence, just with drive applied all of the time. Look back to my first post. Every shifter position is engaging two gears. Drive + whatever the shifter is in. I don't know enough about these trannies, so I was hoping there was a modulator or solenoid that may have broken. Thanks for your input.