Pontiac6KSTEAWD

Thats actually a very good point. On cars, and pickups, you shouldnt tow more than the vehicle weighs without a weight distributing hitch. You are talking about towing a car with it once in awhile, and that car, plus trailer, is going to weigh more than the Small truck. What will happen is that you will be going downhill, and your trailer/car is going to pass you. Seen it more times than I care to count, and it never ends pretty. Edit: If you flat tow (tow bar, and all 4 of the wheels on the vehicle are on the ground), you can get away with higher weights. It just becomes a matter of if the brakes can handle it in a normal, or emergency braking situation.

what a coincidence.. My 90 Legacy FWD had the same problem, blown headgasket was the issue. It still sits in the driveway looking for a new owner to strip it of its good parts..

Dont bother with the Nissans. Great around town trucks, with a bit of offroading. But their trannys are weak, and their motors are entirely to expensive to work on. Toyotas just had that huge recall on the frames, and I still dont trust a truck with a timing belt. Rangers are ok with the 3.0, but way underpowered. The 4.0 is MUCH better, but you do pay for it in gas. S-10 or S-15 (Chevy/GMC), with the 4.3, are just about bullet proof. Had a 92 back in 96 or so. 200k miles, and could easily outpull any of the dodge V-8/6 models, and get better gas milage doing it. Decent gas milage, but not great. If you are tall (5'10"+), make sure to get the extended cab. Dakota's are good, lots of room under the hood to work on them. Decent gas milage. However, I fell they are underpowered foe me. Ever considered a Baja?

If memory serves me, they arent interferance motors back then? If thats the case, rock it out!

That is a sexy brat.. WOW!

If its a standard bulb, like a 9004/5/6/7, you might try the help section of your local parts store like Autozone. They have replacement sockets available that you just hardwire/butt connector in..

You dont have to buy it, all he needs to do is bring it up to the insurance guy. This is what they go by, and therefor this is what it is worth for them. I went thru this same thing with my insurance agent with my McLaren Grand Prix. They wanted to give me 750 bucks for it. After a nice paper trail, they gave me almost 4000.

which is more valueable than the Brat I listed.. http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1982&m=1212&d=963&c=14&vi=87251&z=63376&da=-1

Wish I had my old Datsun b210. You could stick your arms thru the doors, the rear quater panals, the firewall, well,, pretty much any body/frame part had holes in it. Used towels for insulation in the doors, and pop rivets and a stop sign on the fire wall. But that car just wouldnt die.. Still ran when we sold it too. Some mexican guy bought it, and drove it to Arizona, where the alternator went out, and he abandoned it.

Use the ads on this forum for them to do their research. I think there are some lifted rigs for sale recently for what? 2500 or so... Also, show them the link to the recent Ebay Brat that sold for over 3000 bucks.. Miles are irelevant for a car that is considered by any market Antique. Also, make sure they price guide it correctly with the Classic Cars thing in mind. http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1984&m=1212&d=5613&c=14&vi=87283&z=63376&da=-1 used an 84 cause i couldnt remember what year your brat was

I vote no as well, but for other reasons. First, this kid sounds like he is kind of a freind to you. And you never sell a freind, that lives close, anything, cars, houses, etc. Secondly, if he lives close enuf to you, and you know what SVX's are like, than you know he is going to be coming to you for help. And althou you may like working on cars, knowing what you know about these cars, are you sure you want to commit that kinda time into fixing it for him. My suggestion, put it up on CRaigslist, or ebay, but dont sell it to this kid. Not until he is ready for the investment of time and Money that these SVX's require.

We were just talking about this in another thread... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93931&highlight=block+heater They also make battery warmers..

I think you are going to be surprised that most of those old cars are going to be found in a junkyard. The economy the way it is, and the price of steal still bringing in a OK penny. People are just trying to pay their heating bills anymore. The junk yards are now starting this thing where you dont need a title, just bring in the car, and they give you cash/check. I imagine its only working on the older cars, as a newer car would be to suspicious.

I am pretty sure the 01 OB and OBS/SUS have the 2.5 inthem EJ25. But I have been wrong befor.

Damnit.. Thanks

Is this the same for a EJ25 in a 00 or 01 outback 5 speed? That its backwards compatible to a 98 EJ22?

Subaru has no intentions of coming out with another truck type vehicle. They claim the Baja was a flop for them, althou my local dealers couldnt keep them in stock. The issue with the Baja is that is actually cost Subaru more money to make it, then they were making off the Legacy, and both had a very simalar price tag. They were taking regular production Legacys off the assembly line, and then converting them to a Baja. I would love to get my hands on a baja turbo. But I cant drive one. I am so tall, and since ALL baja's came with a sunroof, my head hits the dang thing. So, the wife wants me to get her either a Pontiac Aztek AWD, or a Subaru Baja. And althou I love the Baja, the Aztek is more affordable, and I can actually drive one. And with Toyota having the minor interest in the company, I dont see it happening.

My brothers OB wagon 5 speed has the same issue. The mechanic said it has burnt valves. His needs new heads, or a new engine.

This isnt really for me, just trying to help my brother out in the Denver Area.. His OB has roughly 180+k miles on it. For about the last 80k miles, the check engine light has been on. The Mechanic he took it to said the valves on cylinders 1 and 4 are burnt. Assuming what the Mechanic told him is true, he is most likely going to need a valve/head job, if not a new motor. So a couple questions.. Better to get a newer motor, or rebuild his heads, or just get new heads? Are any of our local Colorado members mechanics? And are they able to take on any jobs of this caliber? Thanks in advance..

Also interested in this BRAT, pics, and a specific locale, and a price, would be very very nice.

***pulls out drive mag*** Would have been better if they had included more pics. Still cool..

Going from what I know in recent experience. You have the right, if in a accident, and the fault is not yours, to request, and demand, the car be repaired to its condition prior to the accident, even if this means custom, or other prefab work. If the insurance company scoufs at you about it, calmly tell them that your lawyer will be getting in contact with them, hang up the phone, and get a lawyer involved.

Had a simalar problem with my 85 GL hatch. Turned out to be a combination of the gas cap, and the backfire valve (probly not the correct name for it, but thats what we called it). Old gas cap, it passed with flying colors, except it failed on the gas cap itself. New gas cap, it failed.

Have you checked for the quality of spark thats actually making it to the cylinder? Bright blue spark, good anything else, bad...

Easist thing I have found is to go into your trunk, pop the lock out of it. Take it to a locksmith, and get a key for it. Cost isnt to bad, and you now can lock your door when you get a key!!