Txakura

send me a PM with your number, as the only other RS in the world, maybe I can come up and we can look at it, G ooo, just remembered the vacuum lines come off a little splitter by the driver side, it's on the fender close to the windshield wiper motor, follow the two lines down to the big ball sitting on the gearbox - that's the actuator I guess you could make sure everything is secure and nothing popped off or is broken/leaking

I can't tell anyone to drive or not drive, if it were my own personal rig, I'd probably do it, stay way out of any rpm other than necessary and no where close to any boost... but it'd depend on how badly I thought the engine was damaged i.e. not make a $200 problem a $1,200 problem that close can you get a tow from anyone? 4 hrs for a first time go is probably not realistic what else have you figured out? are the oil and coolant mixing? oh, and they'e head bolts on that engine

does it control the annoying "door lock" indicator on the panel?

Christine? hey this is OT, but my clock, horn and cruise were acting funny, it turned out to be in the ignition switch itself, wiggling the key, clock pops back to life Umm, about the above post... not real sound advice. On any particular item. So, you found your throttle cable was way out of adjustment, that explains the lack of power at the high end, but not the idle. Has it gotten any better with use?

roger that, why I clipped carbbed off of quote, yes, pull all plugs on any engine

What Gloyale said. Leave it on the wire bundle, lay it in the car, if you don't need it, it won't hurt to carry it. you can delete it later.

Okay, maybe this will help someone else chime in. First pic shows the general area of the relay in question, cruise servo and weird 4wd fuse, (his donor was fwd, so the wire may be there on the harness, just not used) second pic shows the only relay over there, and it has a blu/yellow wire, like he posted third pic shows the connectors, really buried down behind the headlight - isn't the big one the headlight itself? and the smaller one the side marker? pic not taken was rad and fan connectors, which hang in space in fairly plain sight...

what about a remote starter switch? not energizing the pump or ignition, 5 seconds to clip on

smoke was coming out the dipstick tube? has oil surfaced in the coolant? is there coolant in the oil?

now you're just confusing the hell out of me, we went from near the left headlight, the passenger fender to the firewall, in front of the rad and the right side to the a/c? oh yeah and the fusible links I'll re-read this 5 times and go pop my hood and look for stuff, getting coffeed up right now

I was more worried about durability and cooling capacity when it gets hot this summer (40C) and I'm using the air conditioning. It does seem cooler, (never goes above 1/4 scale) and rock stable, but that is also because the pretty looking single row was bad... any radiator change would have been an improvement. It's my understanding the turbo really needs, HAS to have the twin row. The single is a recipe for disaster.

assuming the maf is obvious, could be the sensor from the rad, and the electric fan connector would be over there too... real close to the headlight, that would make sense it went back to the power side because of the fan's draw

thought there might be a show, I've never had any luck re-torquing a head, but I have been desperate enough to try it twice... guess some other folks are holding back, or too busy in the nice weather to reply with a scientifical post

could be cruise control, take a pic, I'll pop my hood and find 'em

I like this too, my RX/RS would both look good cleaned up. Funny, when you started this thread I didn't have the RX, now I can see EXACTLY what my car would look like if I did the same thing. Good job, looks really clean that way.

It seems to good to be true, and graphite? but... I wonder if I should snag one now... ahead of time.

I'd be happy to jump in a convoy from Idaho/Spokidoki, I am brat-less but I can carry the token coupe award

yes, how is that going? I've been watching DW-TV and getting the news from that, pretty amazing the impact on air travel. But, that's in the air, what's going on locally?

ok I have to ask, what if the EA71 pistons went in an EA82? (which started at 9.5:1?)

it's right next to the 'hypothetical EJ 22', and if I had titled this anything else I doubt I'd have gotten so many answers so fast but seriously, great input from all are their any internal differences? cam, heads... yadda yadda?

RS? what? Turbo Loyale Wagon or a 3 dr RS coupe? Aww man don't kill a coupe...

Ok, so I have prowled around a bit but haven't seen anything concrete on a 'JDM ea82T'. Assuming this unicorn exists, what, if any, differences are there between it and it's US counterpart? And how would you tell them apart?

what about water injection? kind of assuming this isn't a DD... those pistons would be really tempting, but it'd be 92 octane or higher for sure