Txakura

wouldn't that be funny if your directional tread was mixed up... geez if your pretty happy with everything else, +1 on the tires themselves *** oh hey, have you tried the rotation game? where you move a tire from front to back to see if it changes anything? ***

I never said that, anywhere. We're talking about an electrolyte, it was assumed that the TSP was in the same electrical set up in place of the soda ash/washing soda/baking soda solution. So you're pointing out a cleaner, that is 1) hard to find in your area, and 2) potentially banned in others... as being useful for... who? as opposed to a box of baking soda cooked at 300 F for an hour, available for pennies at ANY grocery store you went to five stores looking for something else? when you get done with your parts, put the pics up, I already posted mine

years ago I used a plastic paint on an entire hideous interior*, I had very good results and it was reasonably durable, I kept some of the left over for touch ups when a scratch or two showed up I used Castrol Super Clean, which is very alkali, and thoroughly scrubbed everything with a mild scotch brite (red I think) and rinsed it until any and all residue of the cleaner was gone and hung the parts to air dry in the sun and get warm the paint I used, maybe a Krylon plastic paint, had MEK in it, (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) and it really fused to the pieces and flashed off quickly, (check the label) you might also consider using a plastic primer, as it attaches to the material so well, and almost any paint can bond to it - which would let you use any color you wanted (*yeah, "Monkey Poop Brown" was not a good idea, even when it was new)

Well explained, I now know the function as well as how to tie it into my existing system. Thank you, Legacy Triple 7.

I have been reading the bbs late into the night, doing a lot of searching on a whole grocery list of things... but haven't stumbled on this yet: was thinking of putting a 205 TMIC on my ea82T for the time being, until I need it for the 'big build' (ej22) (since I already have it lying around) the IC has a recirc valve on it, I think I could block it off or I could use it, I'm not sure if I did use it, the vaccum line on the diaphragm could go to an unused port on the ea throttle body post maf, yeah? but what does the actual port, the one that opens and allows some bypass, tie back into? forgive my newbness to this side of the world ** edit, this is really, 'where does this go' on the 205, not 'where does this go' on my car (retrofitting) **

Yeah, I washed a lot of road grime out of the fins too, tons and tons, it amazed me how much crap rinsed out.

some, the water was initially dark when I dumped it and rinsed to clear, the car it came from was not maintained and I wanted to make sure it was clear of crud -like stop leak left over from the donor car's heater core leak- I didn't have any problems with the rad itself before, but since I was putting it on an ea82T I wanted to be confident it was as decent as possible before I mounted it doing it in the shop like that was easier in a way than cutting a heater core line for a flush and fill kit, running a hose and discharging a toxic mess to my yard thought it might be useful to other folks in the north for winter work when a big mess from a flush kit isn't an option

Ummmmm... care to clarify that a skosh?

Had an all metal dual core in the rafters and wanted to clean it out before I used it. Grabbed fluid pump at work, (used for draining hot water tanks), two clamps and some Prestone flush and fill. Rinsed it with the petcock open and the faucet as hot as possible, closed the petcock and added 1/2 the bottle of cleaner and closed the radiator cap. Let circulate for 20 minutes and rinsed thoroughly after disconnecting all the hoses.

IN this case it wasn't an option.

Thankk you GD, I may take you up on that. I'll shoot a PM in the next few days.

oops, my bad

no joke, I still wince at Rob's RX pictures, it was doubly close to home as I use the same highway I have a Halon bottle that can ride with me

Thank you all. I removed a dubious electrical set up and had put a mechanical fan on to get home. On the way back the question on the a/c fan came to mind. I will re-install one as a potential fail safe. The dual electric fan idea, to save hp for the wheels, is good. Adding some discreet indicator for peace of mind is very very good.

brag? kind of... it is pretty rough, in the details I left out, I had even more good reasons to question the engine (which is why I didn't say much before now) I was mainly into the chasis/gearbox/lsd as a car, it needs a lot of work, for our purposes here it is neat to see one that has survived this long I have no plans to modify the ea82T, but I may add a basic intercooler to prolong it's life, beyond that I'd like to find replacements for missing bits um, like a bumper (a hitch on an ea82T with a single core radiator great idea ) naw you didn't ruin the lsd for sale, but those are like throwing meat before hungry wolves on this board

I could easily have it backwards, but it has a mechanical fan for primary and the electric kicks in when the a/c is on and drags through the evaporator and rad. I don't remember if it has a temp sensor or if it is keyed (armed?) off the a/c being selected ??? life needs more mystery wires :-\

hey, if the a/c is disconnected (pump removed), will the secondary (electric) ea82 fan even come on?

Ok. I am changing my mind. I just met the pulley from hell, I guess I have had a charmed life till now. I had read this and used the breaker bar starter trick. I even had a remote starter handy. I had a 1/2" 22mm socket on some funky bar t-bar in a pipe, I watched in amazement as the pulley slowly twisted the t bar 90 degrees and generally mangled the crud out of it... I had to pull the rad, grill and center hood latch support and sneak a 1/2 impact in while pulling the upper bumper trim back and even then it was looking kind of iffy if the impact ratchet was going to pull it off. On an upsurge from the compressor it finally broke lose. Yeah, so, screw the hammer, that only works if they are undertorqued or have been off in the last 20 years.

WOW that is really sharp

Well yeah. You get what you pay for I guess, and it is a little rough, but... it runs, and seems to be okay. Or, at least hasn't blown up yet, maybe later. I saw it near work and kept driving by it, finally I knocked and left my number and the guy called and well, here it is. I was surprised by a few things, namely the headgaskets and heads seem to be okay so far, despite a blown water pump. Compression is good. Fluids are staying seperate, starts immediately. I was delighted when I pulled the belt covers to see all new idlers, belts and pulleys, and happy to see the new struts. It came with two sets of tires and a stereo thrown in. Couple of things I wasn't ready for, the red turn signal indicators on the dash, (instead of the green I'm used to) and the little turbo emblem that lights up under boost, I don't recall anyone mentioning that before, it startled me merging into traffic - I thought it was a warning light out of the corner of my eye! I didn't think much of the home made cold air package, but it does let you hear some turbo noise, which is cute (for lack of a better term). But whats up with the 'ka boosh' when it dumps excess pressure? I thought these didn't have any type of blow off? Did someone add that? Bought it as a non runner, with a big dumb %%% hole in the hood, missing rear bumper (nice hitch ), the mandatory sun baked upholstery, and a cracked windshield. The water pump was as bad as I've ever seen, and the PO's single row rad has got to go. I trailered it, and swapped the pump today. He claims he didn't drive it after the pump crapped, that it was undriveable, (I agree, but don't know what that really means or how often it got hot before he parked it). He claimed to have not radically overheated it, that it failed on the way home and really let go when he got to his house. I wasn't figuring that it was a useable engine, and had planned on parking it until some future ej swap... but it's cool to finally drive an ea82T and see what that was all about, it was an option for my RS, and I was always curious what a little more power would do for driveability. Now I know, it makes you grin like an idiot. and no, the lsd is not for sale

gloyale posted this in something unrelated "there is an oil line bolted to the rear of the head, low in the corner.(hard line, banjo bolt style. Don't lose the 2 copper crush washers) A larger oil return tube beneath the turbo.(5/16 or 3/4 trans cooler hose works well. Diesel Truck repair shop would stock) And also a coolant return hose (1/2 inch heater hose) that snakes under said plate then clamps to a pipe that bolts to the underside of the head. There is a small 10mm bolt holdin that pipe to the head as well, near the exhaust port. Coolant supply hose on the top is obvious." so, a pic would still be ok, I'm dealing with mess from the PO

Can someone take pity on my soul and snap a labeled picture of the ea82t oil and coolant lines for the turbo, my Chilton's is not helping for this. TIA

I think you're onto something. The rack travel is the same, but the work accomplished is different. because the same lever travels further, the angle changes... ouch, nosebleed still wonder how he settled on 1 1/8", or if it was arbitrary... if he had a solid reason for doing that particular distance, you could infer the travel on other distances for instance, if you filled the original hole and moved it aft without cutting and welding you might achieve some benefit without having to cut, weld, anneal, inspect and repeat...

How are you making the turn radius smaller? It doesn't change, you're shortening the distance the rack travels to get the same deflection of the wheel. A 45 degree deflection is still 45 degrees, but you're using a shorter lever to get there. You can swing the tip of that lever 6 feet, or you can swing it 6 inches but it's still 45 degrees. One will take more strength to move than the other, and it takes more time to travel 6 feet than 6 inches, but the angle is still 45.

was thinking more on this, my modest ea82 already has a tendency to reach it's oversteer limits rather quickly by traction, that is; pavement is harder to reach the limit on, but the threshold lowers to a different point in mud, gravel, clay, snow, ice etc etc as it is, the car communicates it's intentions rather politely with a vague voodoo feeling in the wheel, that neutraility lets me know I'm coming close to scrubbing the front wheels and making a new and unintended line having more responsives could be useful, very useful, but I can also see where this change in geometry could alter the way the car communicates, or even that it lowers the understeer threshold, or reducs the warning time altogether still, depending on any answer to the above post, it might be possible to calculate a modest improvement in response time, e.g. ratio, and improve the handling the other 99% of the time the car is not pushing any limit I hope there's a follow up to this, not a one hit wonder of a post