Txakura

GD praised an idea? (just kidding GD) wow, the videos posted were very good just out of curiosity, you mentioned 1 1/8" as your modification and also that moving it less would result in less interference at full lock and limit the possibility of going too far overcenter with the ball joint how did you settle on 1 1/8" for your purposes? as opposed to say half that, 9/16", or any other number? I have a knuckle on my coffee table (doesn't everyone), this is an amazing idea - what about welding in the old hole and moving it one diameter back without cutting and splicing the knuckle? even a modest 20% improvement would seem worth the effort

the lock switch would be where the sticker is on the center console, it looks like a d/r 5 label but I couldn't make out the second shifter on this crappy monitor at any rate, for $400 I would snap it up whether it ran or not - but I am biased towards that body style

About as cold air induction as it can get, I was thinking more of the 1970 Plymouth Barracuda Shaker... with the cold air box and scoop fixed with a gasket and the hood opened aorund it.

Kind of surprised, after searching, that although it has been discussed, no one has posted a succesful Shaker (style) Hood. I'd think it could be functional for an intercooler, or dropping underhood temperatures. Plus it looks cool.

Memorial Day sounds best. Suubs and family are not mutually exclusive. Eburg is not a huge traffic issue (once you get off I-90). The campsite might need to be booked in advance. No idea how to anticipate the size needed, half the yay's won't show, half the lurkers will...

that is an excellent outline winegars for ice cream social, canyon drive, miner burgers, drive back and camp made that canyon run myself many times, its often ice free when the high road is treacherous also tubed and fly fished there (C&R for all you so inclined to do some fishing) I'd come just to socialize with my RS and stay in Yakima all that remains is to set some date, and I think it might be good to give winegar's and miner's a heads up so they can have some extra staff handy, just in case there is a big turn out

That's cool you took care of it yourself and got the satisfaction from it. Well done.

ooooooo Brian's tube shop... maybe that wasn't a good thing to post as every board member immediately thinks of all the cool stuff for their car!

^^^ +1 , why even screw around with the oem style bearing? you'll only change them once in the car's life anyway...

is the cap wet inside? sounds like my non-soob after going to the car wash

wouldn't the oxygen sensor trip the 'check engine light', (CEL) if it were bad? mine does with a loose wire, wiggle the wire, light goes out or were you thinking it was not completly kaput, but out of spec? I had the opposite problem with ea82 spfi, cleaned IAC which did nothing, it was the coolant temperature sensor, (CTS) telling the car it was already warm when it wasn't running rich could be IAC, but CTS tells the ecm how to adjust the mixture doesn't it?

^^^ can I get a sponsor sticker on the new roo? glad to see you are moving ahead, maybe next time I will have more time to check it out my little project has stalled :-\

many thoughts here, the kids are ok, the car looked really cool after all your work and even though it's gone now, it's been 'immortalized' in a magazine? that's like one major bummer and two happy endings can't beat that

some cracks are "normal" for these engines and can be run, other people know more and will probably post, search the forum for head cracking and there may be some pics already up you can compare to as well as some descriptions of typical cracks versus fatal cracks I just wanted to post before you spent any money on any course of action - my knowledge is limited to what I have learned by reading here, not hands on for that particular problem

I'm not sure about that, the soda ash takes part in the chemical process as an electrolyte, TSP is a cleaner - and a good one, but it would have different chemical properties. TSP is readily available at any hardware store or paint supply but it's akaline. The soda ash is acidic and is listed in those outside web links in this thread as being the preferred cleaner. My point being, other people have gone to some trouble to compile the web postings, if all they had to do was buy some TSP and dump it in, I think they would have mentioned it. My own mad scientist contraption was sustaining 6 amps. Overnight it dropped to 2 amps. There are several reasons for that I'm sure, but the electrolyte's composition could have been changing too. The acidic mixture may have also been a catalyst in that it enabled the electron transfer but also was consumed in the process as well as the electrical potential of the parts changing over time. Interestingly, changing the fluid bath caused the 2 amp pot to resume at 6 amps. The alkaline bath may work, but not as well. As the original post was baking soda, but cooking off the soda to form a crude soda ash yielded even better results.

GD a hundred sounds pretty good. The $195 and $210 I have been quoted seems 'a bit too high' for the material cost. Agree with Nipper, this wasn't a stupid question, and I hope it didn't wander too far off topic for some folks.

one piece of transparent plastic has the holes from both sides, the common holes are the bottom two and possibly a snug fit at the ea input shaft and a same diameter locator in the ej crank, (such as a clutch tool) tracing the flange and the bell housing on opposite sides allows a see through view of the over lap and a view of the relationship between every hole and dowel I have power clecos, but bolts coulld be used to secure the template snugly to prevent movement while each hole is located. I agree 100%. Buying something from SJR, you know it's going to fit, and that its going to fit well. Bingo. If you could even find someone who would take it on! 'Built not bought' never rang so true. (Nice combination, btw.) That is poetic, absolutely poetic.

Your parts are gorgeous, I bought a 4" ea82 kit from you. Your adapter is gorgeous too. The adapter price did turn me off, the flywheel adapter combo made me pause and cost out doing my own. In the Suub chat, I drew some flack and the crappy comment that (my) 'time must not be worth much', and it was expressed that the prices were the 'going rate' for quality cnc machined parts. I do not disagree, limited run manufacturing is spendy... I cannot think of a number, anything I would suggest would most likely be UNINTENTIONALLY insulting and I do not want to insult anyone's hard work and high quality products with some armchair quarterbacking. On the other hand, I do not wish to pre-load my input shaft and suffer premature bearing failure either. I'll know more when I pull my ea82 and lay the possible template out and get a more precise measurement for the aluminum stock and material price.

Not necessarily, if they are like any other dowel pin they can be punched out from the back with a drift, the large hole located in the template and the dowel pin itself partially tapped in through the plexi hole to further stabilize the template while it's being made. Barring that, a mallet strike on the template will leave enough of an imprint to center the dowel hole and it can be oversized and centered in the template until it's perfectly aligned on the dowel... or a back transfer strap, or 'hole finders'... so on, this isn't necessarily that difficult, it's flat pattern lay out and hole transferring.