Txakura

is the cap wet inside? sounds like my non-soob after going to the car wash

wouldn't the oxygen sensor trip the 'check engine light', (CEL) if it were bad? mine does with a loose wire, wiggle the wire, light goes out or were you thinking it was not completly kaput, but out of spec? I had the opposite problem with ea82 spfi, cleaned IAC which did nothing, it was the coolant temperature sensor, (CTS) telling the car it was already warm when it wasn't running rich could be IAC, but CTS tells the ecm how to adjust the mixture doesn't it?

^^^ can I get a sponsor sticker on the new roo? glad to see you are moving ahead, maybe next time I will have more time to check it out my little project has stalled :-\

many thoughts here, the kids are ok, the car looked really cool after all your work and even though it's gone now, it's been 'immortalized' in a magazine? that's like one major bummer and two happy endings can't beat that

some cracks are "normal" for these engines and can be run, other people know more and will probably post, search the forum for head cracking and there may be some pics already up you can compare to as well as some descriptions of typical cracks versus fatal cracks I just wanted to post before you spent any money on any course of action - my knowledge is limited to what I have learned by reading here, not hands on for that particular problem

I'm not sure about that, the soda ash takes part in the chemical process as an electrolyte, TSP is a cleaner - and a good one, but it would have different chemical properties. TSP is readily available at any hardware store or paint supply but it's akaline. The soda ash is acidic and is listed in those outside web links in this thread as being the preferred cleaner. My point being, other people have gone to some trouble to compile the web postings, if all they had to do was buy some TSP and dump it in, I think they would have mentioned it. My own mad scientist contraption was sustaining 6 amps. Overnight it dropped to 2 amps. There are several reasons for that I'm sure, but the electrolyte's composition could have been changing too. The acidic mixture may have also been a catalyst in that it enabled the electron transfer but also was consumed in the process as well as the electrical potential of the parts changing over time. Interestingly, changing the fluid bath caused the 2 amp pot to resume at 6 amps. The alkaline bath may work, but not as well. As the original post was baking soda, but cooking off the soda to form a crude soda ash yielded even better results.

GD a hundred sounds pretty good. The $195 and $210 I have been quoted seems 'a bit too high' for the material cost. Agree with Nipper, this wasn't a stupid question, and I hope it didn't wander too far off topic for some folks.

one piece of transparent plastic has the holes from both sides, the common holes are the bottom two and possibly a snug fit at the ea input shaft and a same diameter locator in the ej crank, (such as a clutch tool) tracing the flange and the bell housing on opposite sides allows a see through view of the over lap and a view of the relationship between every hole and dowel I have power clecos, but bolts coulld be used to secure the template snugly to prevent movement while each hole is located. I agree 100%. Buying something from SJR, you know it's going to fit, and that its going to fit well. Bingo. If you could even find someone who would take it on! 'Built not bought' never rang so true. (Nice combination, btw.) That is poetic, absolutely poetic.

Your parts are gorgeous, I bought a 4" ea82 kit from you. Your adapter is gorgeous too. The adapter price did turn me off, the flywheel adapter combo made me pause and cost out doing my own. In the Suub chat, I drew some flack and the crappy comment that (my) 'time must not be worth much', and it was expressed that the prices were the 'going rate' for quality cnc machined parts. I do not disagree, limited run manufacturing is spendy... I cannot think of a number, anything I would suggest would most likely be UNINTENTIONALLY insulting and I do not want to insult anyone's hard work and high quality products with some armchair quarterbacking. On the other hand, I do not wish to pre-load my input shaft and suffer premature bearing failure either. I'll know more when I pull my ea82 and lay the possible template out and get a more precise measurement for the aluminum stock and material price.

Not necessarily, if they are like any other dowel pin they can be punched out from the back with a drift, the large hole located in the template and the dowel pin itself partially tapped in through the plexi hole to further stabilize the template while it's being made. Barring that, a mallet strike on the template will leave enough of an imprint to center the dowel hole and it can be oversized and centered in the template until it's perfectly aligned on the dowel... or a back transfer strap, or 'hole finders'... so on, this isn't necessarily that difficult, it's flat pattern lay out and hole transferring.

I am facing the same task soon. I am going to use a piece of plexiglass. I will cut a hole for the ea shaft to slide through, line the bottom edge up and spot and cleco the bottom two holes that are shared with the ej. I'm going to pick up the ea holes, cleco it tightly to the bellhousing and trace it. Label the face side 'EA'. Now when I remove it I have a cartoon of the ea shape and two holes to line it up to the ej with. I'll repeat the same process, pick up the ej holes and trace the ej flange. I'll label that side 'EJ'. I can now make the exact adapter shape from the plexi and lay it on the metal to transfer it. I am considering ".500 5052 aluminum over steel as the aluminum will be easier for me to cut and shape with the tools I have* (though the metal cost is higher) *whimpy band saw, drill press, 90 degree die grinder with cross cut files, hand files, 2,3 and 4" sanding discs etc

Welcome, I spent several months in Palmer rebuilding a NAC plane at the field. I had a pretty good time when we weren't working, went to the glaciers with a Cub and did all kinds of cool stuff.

:lol::lol::lol: ROFLMAO I need one of those at work, are you taking orders?

Sorry I missed this on the first go, very cool.

Got an email today, one part was holding the order up. It is supposed to ship Wednesday. Not clear which part was so obscure, they have very low shipping so I don't mind that it was held rather than sent in multiple packages - it isn't time critical. On the other hand their website does not appear to function quite right, the link they sent in the email goes to a 'moved page error' and it gets circular and convoluted form there. The end result is that the 'account/order status' link can be found on the home page, it lets you log in but it does not seem to have any way to actually view your order and takes you back to the log in screen, roundy roundy. I used different browsers, script permissions and allowed third party cookie handling exceptions... kind of silly to send a link in the email that doesn't actually uh... link. The point made here, that going local might be best, is a damn good point.

holy crap I laughed at that, is that like hand selected parking lot gravel with a sticky side out duct tape belt?

that's kind of cool to hear some of the history, some pics in another thread would be nice to see

bought more parts... someday I have to start putting them on :-\

see the title had me thinking this was a whole other subject, that someone had finally had enough and was going to shoot their crank pulley... I was open to the idea, having had the same idea myself at different times with different repairs +1 for smart rap of the hammer on a breaker bar, the instantaneous impact can break things loose with a minimum of fuss, if you have a well fitting socket and can get the right angle on the bar

I think you answered your own question, you would first have to determine how much was removed from both by comparing dimensions with unmodified parts. Then it's simply a matter of mathematics to calculate the reduction in volume of the cylinder and the corresponding increase in compression resulting from it. But can anyone here divine through the internet the inner workings of your particular engine... not so much. And actually that would scare the hell out of me if they could.

if I can't get 1st to nail down a date, I'll cancel the order and go local I don't know why I hadn't actually considered that

^^^ yeah, twist those suckers

I emailed them. I'd expect some kind of answer Monday. I ordered the parts a while back... they haven't billed my card yet, but the last time I bought from them it was on my door step so fast I couldn't believe it. That was the right control arm, (2007) this is -ahem- the left side (2009)

Placed an order 8 days ago and it's not shipped. Used to be they were lightning fast. Anyone else had this lately?