Txakura

Thank you WRX2FFU for posting this, this is the coolest shop trick. I got amazing results and this is a great tool to have in the inventory of old school tricks.

Left everything boiling like mad, hoping the shop is still there tomorrow :-\ I realized today an old cooler would make a nice tub for this, built in drain to rinse it out and all plastic... handles for moving and a lid for storage. wanna hear something funny? some guy's web site had his before and after... he couldn't figure out why his part was rustier than before he dipped it if you read his text, he connected the positive to the part to be cleaned - he doubled his crud

I just got my Subaru knuckles back from the hot tank. I have the rusty parts wired for tomorrow. I'm baking soda at 300 Fahrenheit for an hour to convert it as per the directions on that website. Tomorrow I'll mix the solution and put a battery charger to it and put up some before and after photos. This is waaay cool.

my earlier head bashing was over the roundy roundy vocab test, nothing you said is it the right number for the round bushing at the end of the sway bar? let me know if it is the right part, mine are fried

http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm

Monstaru's point is that you'll just have to measure it, fastest and easiest way to figure what you actually have.

for the 'fulcrum bushing' as described by the above posting, yes but the sway bar linkages and bushings he and I both need? the end bits?

I have been able to download FSM with bit torrent clients.

My confusion is this; there are lots of sources for the bar to frame bushing, but I have not seen listings for the end of the bar to control arm linkage and bushing. Anyone?

What he said, it is an old thread, but a fair question. I'm looking at material now, and would rather not re-invent the wheel, so to speak.

Oh I found them cheaper... but decided to stay with a 'known' and well marked. Only time they'll ever be changed.

I'm not far from you, why can't you use it on your ej? as in, can I use it on my swap?

I am an A&P and was a Master Mechanic... there are degrees of A&P and I think you are referring to small shops or T Hanger environments. It's a different world of thinking, the consequences of any failure are high and their is no statute of limitations on the work performed. I am still liable for any work I performed on hundreds of aircraft from a variety of carriers... that being said, it's unlikely you'd find an A&P that wants to deal with someone else's greasy car problems. A small shop may take the work if they really had nothing better to do, but I think that'd be the exception, and not the rule and I'd wonder why they were taking car work

oh jeez, no, my town is all of 288 people, Spokane, WA probably has something 90 minutes north good ag shop in Moscow, ID, that could have ordered them for me, maybe nothing I'm aware of in Pullman, WA the irony here is that it's easier to buy things from my living room than to find them locally, since it took a little digging to find them I had thought they were harder to find - the skewed view from here, you know, gave me a false impression well, anyway, it'll show up in search now and if someone wants them they can link to 'em

Good Lord this thread hit a nerve in so many of the replies. There is a larger issue here in that there has been a sustained attack on skilled labor for a long time and the very labor performing the work is considered an 'expense' to be regulated. How many kids go to trade school? What is considered a 'prestigious' career? It makes me very PO'ed when I think about it, and it's everywhere, in every field. I worked for a company that hit a billion dollar milestone three years early, their response was to gradually reduce benefits over a five year period, lower the entry level wages, and create new labor categories that paid less at the top of the scale than the previous categories. I don't think I'm being OT, I'm explaining what I think is part of the problem.

I had to look a bit to find the sealed front wheel bearings labeled clearly as being 'C3', VXB has some from China without being clear as to whether they are 'C3' or not. They might be fine... but, I only want to change these once. I mention VXB because they Google up very quickly However, this equipment company had them and I ordered mine from them. ($16.88 ea, about $10 ups ground) http://www.dnequipment.com/eMerchantPro/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=42028 perhaps on their equipment listings they should add Subarus

ooo, maybe I can play this year

I always thought those helped in start up by drawing off the easily ignitable fumes. Am I mistaken?

This is good to know. This is a whole new world of hurt for me and I am learning what I can here first. Later I will blow up my ej22 and blame GD for giving me the idea. If I had a secret desire to burp flames on my shifting like the rally Lancias I grew up watching, does that make me a 'boy racer'? As I'm pushing middle aged, I should probably get that squared away so I at least know where I stand in the hierarchy. Too OT?

I think it's fair to ask a turbo related question in a turbo thread, but it may wrinkle a few the wrong way to post a Racing Mustang question on a late 1980's Subaru board. Surely there is a Mustang board that may be an exact fit for what you're talking about? WTF is a "v24 x trim"? That is a good example of the language differences between what is here, and what may make some sense somewhere else. Try the 'non soob' vehicle area on this board, or google anything Mustang. I am hoping that if I am polite, you will not get flame broiled beyond recognition and go to the XJ board where the trolls will eat you alive.

whats the spec for an EJ 22?

I don't think I will magically lose any output from the engine but the inertia of the rotating mass will be different. A heavier flywheel at the same rpm connecting and transmitting more force on initial engagement sounds, intuitively, like it would be better for 4wd applications. Following the adventures on this board, I have decided my 4wd time is 'light duty'. My daily driving has shifted from 60% gravel, snow and mud to less than 1%. (I'm also driving 12 miles per day now, as opposed to 120 last April, and 65 the rest of the year) This is a mod I've always wanted to try and with my grEAsy82 engine coming out fairly soon, this is a good opportunity to work the flywheel, see what that does on the same engine, before going to the ej22. Great input from the crew, believe it or not, hanging out on the XJ board helped me in the decision to sell my XJ. Hanging out here makes me think I will always have a Suub in the fleet.

ah... so this is where a well balanced engine definitely comes into play also. This begs follow ups, this side of warping, what's nuts? what appreciable difference will this actually make? has anyone else done this? surely someone must have tried it...

I stopped by the local machine shop today to see what their shop rate for resurfacing my (ea82) flywheel would be. Good guys, small shop. Re-surfacing is no prob, $42 or some such... anyway... I am getting ready for an (eventual but pretty damn soon) ej 22. I like the idea of using a lighter flywheel for faster throttle response, but don't want to lose too much torque. I will use my 4wd, but I am not likely to get as far out as some of the really dedicated guys here. I'm more in the gravel, on logging roads, in the snow etc etc but not breaking a new trail. Not the really gnarly rocker panel bashing stuff (which I wholeheartedly endorse and approve of). :cool: ok, so long build up, but I figured the obvious first reply was 'well what are you going to use it for'? some 4wd, mainly gravel What do you guys think is a middle ground on flywheel machining? Losing 5% or 10% mass for quicker throttle response versus losing too much mass and the torque going out the window with it. Lots of great minds here, this should be interesting