Txakura

almost be worth it to make a floater that wandered around to members that wanted to use it...

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covers are already gone, but everything else looked intact Chux, you mean, she stole the car? thats what they're saying? wtf is the point of having insurance... sorry man that's lame, and I hope you really stick it to them - the best part is, you probably would have been happy getting your car fixed, and any other bills paid - but by the time the lawyers get through fighting for their pay it'll add thousands and thousands of dollars I had a car accident go from 5K to 47K that way, if the damn company had been honorable in the first place instead of juking me around they would have saved 42K get em Chux!

^^^ trackin' wit' you both

I see. Extremely logical. In this case, it got pretty involved and I replaced the awful bolts that were in it and cut new bolts to the exact (longest) length possible. I used a grip gauge and factored in lock washers and the thickness of the exhaust flange... I'm confident I have full thread engagement. That being said, I will be pulling my engine in the near future and while it's out it makes sense to convert it back to a stud - thanks for explaining.

^^^ I don't disagree, but if the guys money is super tight, the cheapest is to take a 'known good engine' and put it right in...

I inherited a set of pre wanked holes on my second engine. I'm using bolts now, with lock washers. Question; why would the stud be better? (as in, should I convert it back?)

really awesome pics and scenery, the three look great together too!

if'n your taking his crap on, maybe you can store some of mine?

awww man... maybe next year I will have something fun to bring (and not be working 7 days a week) to everyone that made it, I send my best, have a good time and a safe trip to and from

and a very nice looking Brat it is, good deal re: people not too bright; I've seen something similar, it's almost like 'what's old is new again'

ditto - thank you for stepping in

almost seems like the vacuum and electrical are okay... sort of leaves mechanical... hmmmm all the fluid levels are up to full?

I want to see it hand grenade

I had a manual, the auto is different... so someone like GD or Gloyale needs to step in at this point. The switch should run under the carpet to a relay, I believe, that the dash board wouldn't light at all if the relay wasn't closing. the canister and lines aren't likely to get plugged is the idle okay? a vacuum line leak would make it idle roughly... what happens if you put it in 4wd with the car idling? does the engine change rpm or run crappy?

there we go, that's what I'm talking about I used rolling stands on small aircraft engines, same thing, no coolant, lots simpler

if it's lighting the electrical aspect may be okay, there is a cluster of vacuum lines on a gang fitting (for lack of a better term) on the left fender close to the hood hinge - see if the 4 vacuum lines are secure there the two middle ones come off straight up and then dive towards the fire wall and connect to an actuator on the transmission, the big flat top disc you can just see from above, see that those are attached too I suppose that vacuum diaphragm could go bad after 19 years too isn't there a fuse on the right fender close to the right hood hinge too? big sucker all by itself above the vacuum canister near where the washer line goes into the wiper bay someone else will have to step in, this is about all I got - mine chugged along to the day I pulled it for the d/r so I didn't learn all I could about it

there's no disapointment, I don't care what it is as long as it doesn't leak I'm only going off the word of my favorite local shop - (great guys, have helped me out between paychecks if you know what I mean) I once asked for 2 1/2 from the cat back, when I was getting a new muffler - they were going to change it when they noticed (this is what they told me) that it was already 2 1/4 - there was no point in changing it 1/4" for the cost to benefit, I did get a 2 1/4 inlet and 2 1/4 outlet on the muffler I haven't looked into it to see what it was all about so yeah, you're quite possibly right - I'm not arguing, that's just where I got the idea

do you mean other than his fan clutch?

The ONLY time my system failed it was just the switch in the shifter had gone bad... that was a single range 5 spd (manual). I am not the most savvy guy here by a long shot, but that is an easy and cheap place to look first - although I don't remember what the automatic had - isn't it just a button on the shifter also?

I have no ej, I just want to be able to run one before I install it and thought someone here might have had the same idea, or deals in enough engines they made something for themselves...

no the RS is s/r 5 originally (don't think there is a fwd RS) the pipe is 2 1/4, I had it in the shop for work and was going to replace it all with 2 1/2... until I discovered it was 2 1/4 oem, the double walled crap (heat shields) rides on top of that do I need the engine exhaust (the components directly tied to the engine), y pipe etc from the ej then? and adapt it to the flange of the old mid pipe?

anyone made a stand to run an engine outside the car? it might be useful to run an ej from the bone yard before I get it all the way into my ea car... I'd rather waste some time messing around outside the car rather than find a monster leak or dead cylinder etc etc and have to pull it out for a $5 seal

It occured to me that in all the ej swap stuff people have posted I've never seen mention of what they did for ea/ej exhaust. My (ea82) mid pipe is 2 1/4 (oem) and completely stock, both cats yadda yadda... What exhaust changes, if any, need to be made to host the ej engine in the ea body?