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Everything posted by Txakura
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AT last another number, ($400). That helps, although I'm not sure I can do as well... not much to trade etc etc. Yeah, pretty much got all excited by the nice clean fresh engine all ready to go... but there is the (mpfi) wiring, cross-member, ecu... really a little more work than the ej, and for what? less power and reliability? so... I'll let it go and see what I can find elsewhere
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we got it, it was a fuel pump relay that (apparently has many functions) was the culprit... the relay was around $300, but I found a re-flashed one from "programa'' for $79 that was very very educational, I am glad my venerable ea82 is still a 'mechanical car' to a large part, and not as crazy with the electronics, relays and such - sure we have a few items but... sort of like an A-10 versus an F-22 both very good at their jobs, just two different ways in going about it
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ea82t it needs more power
Txakura replied to AWD TURBO!'s topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Screw the award, how about some ESL classes? -
just use a window shutter like most small trailers have to protect the front window I like the dual ended hatch idea, that'd be cool
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me either, I need magic elves to do it for me or the time off to do it, ha ha I have one really bad thing to deal with... one bolt on my transmission cross member (that goes through the torsion bar attach bracket) is wankered up... I'll probably end up grinding it off and drilling it - most likely tapping the original hole, either to the nominal size, or worst case a slight over size - I can handle it, I have the technology and the ability... but it's going to suck, no way around it the big thing is that I need to do so much around that front, left lower control arm, new wheel bearings, left lower ball joint, struts, strut bearing caps and so on... it doesn't make any sense to put the lift in, then take it all out to change the stuff - why do it twice? so I'm stockpiling parts until I have everything to do it but the rear... well, I had some time and wanted desperately to get that going and see what it was going to look like plus it cracks me up to see my car in heat... it's even funnier to see the weird looks I'm getting, I think some people believe I jacked up a fwd car, others just think I'm some really really delusional dude they won't be laughing so hard when I'm the only thing moving this winter
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yes Toyota plain jane steelies, body colored mirrors and spoiler are OEM on the RS
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just thought I'd add that together all of you beat some sense into my head
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ahh yes, I understand what you mean, it really comes into play at about 135 doesn't it? cuz I can - 'zactly right
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I love it, that'd be hilarious, mit a d/r no less...
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I think I asked you once why your car had it's "butt up in the air" This is just until I get the front up... hence 'in progress'
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yes the other dif has the stubs, since I didn't care about that car's axles I cut one, beat the dif to the newly open side and then beat the beejeezuz out of the axle piece left on the stub until it popped off actually, I have 3 rivet guns (3x 4x and a 27x), and no air hammers
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If I need to, I will shoot you a PM if the above fails (and I lose my temper )
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excellent, thank you for the play by play, I will do this
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I anti-seize damn near everything, these pricks haven't been off the car since it left Fuji #2 in 1989
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I have read a lot of the old threads on getting the axles to pop off the dif. A few months back I wanted to put my locked rear end in place but couldn't get the axles off of the stubs... I ran out of time and ended up bolting everything back in place and re-hanging the same dif. I had thought after reading up on it, that I may not have had it dropped as far down as I could have and that might have limited my options a bit... well yesterday I tried again and let me just say that getting the pins out is no problem with a pin die on a rivet gun... you can tap them out pretty easily - I have air tools. I used a punch die, 'c' die and an 'elephants foot' to work around the cup and after about 45 minutes of swearing and rolling in my gravel I MAY have gotten one to move about 1/64th of an inch but the damn rust on the splines killed me again, I had it all a mile in the air and I'm thinking of taking it to my favorite shop and having them get those miserable splined rat &^%*$%^% off and switch it for me why even have the retainer pins at all, seems to me those jerks aren't going anywhere :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: -btw- I really had to fight the urge to cut my axles in half and just replace the damn things
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damn that's right
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I don't know about "mad" subi skills thank you for posting a dollar amount
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LMAO my favorite part is the thousand dollar studs, that's pretty damn funny GD !!! I'm not expecting 200 hp from an ea82T, nor do I wish to commit to building an orphan engine for the shear vicarious thrill of it anyone got a dollar figure? what's a reasonable offer for an 'interim engine' like this engine-in-a-box? this is a couple of hundred dollar bolt in, with a freshened block, new heads, spider intake, turbo and complete exhaust... but I have no idea what a 'fair' price for both of us would be
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-doch- yeah that the engine he had, had the dual port heads
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Different Door Panels
Txakura replied to The Dude Abides's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Different Door Panels
Txakura replied to The Dude Abides's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
pad? hmm, pretty sure the front and rear are the same, cheaper to make 1 part than 2 do you mean that when everything is seated in place it sits up too high all the way around? I had thought you were not getting the clasps to slip over the door handle pin and it was holding it too high above the door panel maybe you better get a pic or two -
see, that confuses me. the XT 4 is rated at less power than my SPFI, according to my notoriously inaccurate book... if there is any gain to be had, wouldn't putting the intake, which is potentially for sale seperately, on my healthy SPFI offer some advantage?