Txakura

You just need to patent the 'Fly Boy 3000 Kitty Litter Rust Extinguisher' and you'd be set. Think of all the ea82's alone that need help!

I like the solid side wall, without the Dorito windows. And I kind of like the ginormous back window. With a tint, it'd be fine - and the washer wiper defroster is a bonus Smoothing over the license area/handle is a good idea - I had an off the wall idea; would that make enough space (if you cut into tit from the inside and used the hatch thickness plus the 'pocket' created by the new license area cover) to mount a dashboard glove box right in the middle of the back wall? - up high too - easy to reach from either seat. Hey, it's your rig, just getting into the spirit of things

Chilton's manual "part number 8305' is a POS this is a real hack of a way, but it works: take the brake line off the wheel cylinder, take the two bolts out of the cylinder, find the shoe retainer pins on the back of the dust shield, pry them up and cut them off (they look like nail heads) take the axle nut cotter out, take the (36mm) nut off, in the washer underneath put a small screwdriver in the slot, rap on it once firmly and it should pop off when it spreads pull the drum, you may need a puller to get it started, it's rusted to the splines or beat the crap out of it with a mallet working around the edge of the drum so it gets driven off evenly -POP- all the guts fall out when the drum hits the dirt if you have enough of a lip to not get the shoes off, it's probably out of limits, limit is 7mm thick replace the shoe spring retainer pins with new ones, fresh cotter key yadda yadda anti seize the spline shaft, try to clean the corrosion from the cone washer seat, and the cone washer, some anti seize in the cone seat is very nice the next time you have to do this

take the brake line off the wheel cylinder, take the two bolts out of the cylinder, find the shoe retainer pins on the back of the dust shield, pry them up and cut them off (they look like nail heads) take the axle nut cotter out, take the (36mm) nut off, in the washer underneath put a small screwdriver in the slot, rap on it once firmly and it should pop off when it spreads pull the drum, you may need a puller to get it started, it's rusted to the splines or beat the crap out of it with a mallet working around the edge of the drum so it gets driven off evenly -POP- all the guts fall out when the drum hits the dirt if you have enough of a lip to not get the shoes off, it's probably out of limits, limit is 7mm thick replace the shoe spring retainer pins with new ones, fresh cotter key yadda yadda anti seize the spline shaft, try to clean the corrosion from the cone washer seat, and the cone washer, some anti seize in the cone seat is very nice the next time you have to do this

for one of those Coleman coolers with the 12v chiller built in, a trouble light, a varmit light, light for camping... a 12v compressor but I agree, it wouldn't be a high use item - lot of new cars come with them though

the '3/4' are on the heavy vehicles; wagons, the 4x4's, and the turbo models '11/16' everybody except the justy (5/8")

tracking... just stowing a mag under the hood? or making an 'external' plug in for a varmit light? k c, I was thinking about how all the new cars have those lights that go on when you open the hood, or even that GM trouble light on a reel... but they aren't always in the best spot and make big sahdows guess it wouldn't help much if you need to see your battery and figure out why it's dead

the 4x4 wagon should have the 3/4"

How about this? custom trouble lights, use some cheap clear trailer lights and put them under the hood, or even underneath where you might need light to see whats going on switch under the hood but wait, it gets sillier I was thinking that a nice cover over the light would be good to keep it clean, a little box to protect it how about a soap dish from the dollar store? you know, the cheap snap together ones with the lid for back packing or in a gym locker... you mount the light with a ground lead, in a soap holder, when you need it you open the lid or let the light shine through it - if it isn't covered in massive mud or oil I dunnnnoooo might be useful might not

good to buy in bulk in case the price goes up how many gallons does your bed hold?

Roger that, all the trim panels are taped with foam from Subaru around the inside perimeter. I bet that's to keep them from squeaking against each other as much as dust... but, some of mine have small pieces missing. I was thinking of laying a 1/2" aluminum tape on the joints only - to seal all the plastic into one air tight piece - most of the problem seems to be the hatch seal lower lip which I have a temp solution for... but you have a good point, re-taping the inside edges with a 3/8" or 1/2" wide softer foam, about 1/4" thick (weatherstripping foam from the hardware store) might be a good first step, then if it is still obnoxious I can still tape it up like an airplanes cargo pit (all seams taped). I wish I could really get this in a picture, you guys wouldn't believe how much crap has gotten in - I just had those panels off last summer and put in rear speakers and it was nothing like it is now - truly insane.

I think I might tape off all the trim panel seams in the cargo area. It'll look stupid, and it doesn't solve the real problems - but it would keep all that crap out of the interior. :-\

I'm starting to think the air vents and the passive circulation system may not have had huge clouds of road dust in mind when they designed it. On my car that is the funky quarter panel vents with flap seals, the 4 oval air 'inlet' holes on the underside edge of the lift, the 'outlet' vent below the the rear glass on the underside of the lift, the outlet in the cargo wall behind the wheels... today the lift threshold didn't have new smoke trails, but the outlet above it did - I aluminum taped off the 4 oval inlets, tomorrow I'll see if the hatch is still venting dust. Adding the foam tape to the lift threshold seal made a huge difference. hey, dust on a dirt road is a fact of life, but it was getting so obnoxious I was wiping the inside of my windshield about every 20 minutes with a towel on the passenger seat - that get's old over 2 1/2 hours and turning into the sun I was going blind from the crap on the glass > that gets exciting when you can finally see and there are three deer staring at you

seeing the back wall in place... this is starting to grow on me the side and rear wall look cool that green and flag though, still throwin me

good lord, how about all of the above? tightened the rear light assemblies 1 1/2 turns per nut to 'snug' hatch is leaking like a sieve, added a thin 3/8 wide foam tape (for now) had a hole in the center cargo well (aluminum taped) and I aluminum taped the edges of the particle board covers to seal the compartments small hole in a firewall grommet haven't even gotten to the door seals yet tomorrow morning I'll see if it helped, today was nasty, glacial silt and volcanic ash make a great lip smacking taste

this is getting interesting...

I'm just not a fan of that double back foam tape that runs the length of my trim pieces, on the upper and lower sides in addition to the PITA clips style not withstanding, my trim has taken a few hits so the metal didn't have to I found heating the back of the trim with a heat gun allows you to pop the dents/kinks out of the plastic with a mallet and a block of wood - just thought I'd throw that out there

I second the PITA nomination. I like the 'channels', a cleaner look - keep posting pics.

hmmm.. think you may have something there, what was the cost of the farm stuff? I was at the grange the other day and they had a wall rack of generic pulleys... as in, damn I wonder if one of those would work for an alternator swap? 1/2" wide v-belt pulleys, all different diameters and shaft sizes... hmmm say, you got a pic of the farm lights? this is still on topic right?

after reading Beast's post I realized how boring I am... hey, this is hardly earth shaking - but it'd be nice to have another cigarette/power outlet in the waaay back so I could plug in my cooler for long trips renisance man (sp) had that cool tap-into-the-coolant-drain-plugs for better draining post, (that's where I tapped into for my re-circulating block heater) but his post had pics and he did a super clean job of it

Wow! Thank all of you for the suggestions, excellent places to start.

this is perfect for a problem I have too, thanks for the pics and write ups!

I get a lot of dust, I mean A LOT creeping into the interior - not necessarily through the dash vents. Should I look at the rear hatch seal? Can that entire lift be adjusted a little tighter down? What about these funky body vents on the quarter panel, should I try metal taping them off from the inside? Open to ideas, it's one thing to go play and make dust, it's another to get saturated by it on the way there - or going to the grocery store.

ditto maybe when he went into the office to use the pc he was checking his bank account... overdrawn? yep, you need a new engine

as long as you check them from time to time, I'm sure they'd be fine that way I have a question, whats the dif between the ea81 grommets, and the BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0396369 ea82 grommet that Rock has? diameter? the shoulder? I actually looked for grommets for 81-87 Brat and 80-84 DL/GL yadda yadda '...Leone' on Rock and on Beck's site