Txakura

do you think a tower brace from strut to strut would help? granted it would not help in the case of massive air time impact, but i wonder if spreading the load across the two towers would help minimize lateral movement and provide an alternative stress path to spread the load over a wider area I've thought of making something out of .090" 7075-T6 and using 'tbd' tubing with NAS bolts in close tolerance holes to span the engine bay between the towers using the 3 strut mounting bolts I wonder if the same set up could be also used to run forward to the bumper mount bolts... in effect you'd have a three legged bracing system for the top of the towers providing some stability in two directions, all the brace loads would be in shear and tension it wouldn't keep you from shooting the strut through your hood, but it might prevent more mundane damage, like cracked welds and interesting alignment specs just an idea, not sure if it has any merit

congrats, very cool (like the guard and basket too - not overly busy, just practical)

roger that, a ticking I can handle, this is getting more serious sounding than ever before, the water pump is really not so bad - (yet) it's a few drops of green dew on the pulley bottom - no temp rise, no noise, no appreciable loss from the overflow - just something i'm aware of and watch closely however, I spend four hours a day in the car and the combo of the ticking, howling (original) 215K wheel bearings, lower than normal oil pressure (since the -3 F over pressure incident) and the combination of all of the above, and every other rattle and squeak has driven me to park it and give it a rest, or me a rest, or both a rest the Jeep can take up the slack, and I can take my time to go through it with the daily driving pressure off and continue to debate the merits of getting hardcore serious about this new U-r-a-bus obsession

so my 90 Loyale RS part time 4wd non turbo needs axle part # 95AC-23 (23 spline) on transmission number AW-TW 75F5? and a 1989 XT6 4eat fwd is also 23 spline? I think you see where I'm heading with this...

having seen son of monstaru in person, I am following this with great attention, you do know you need counseling right? just kidding, it was great meeting you and seeing the machine

how did this turn out? I have a push button 3.9, so yes, single range 3.9 is possible...

cool, thanks, i'm on it in the a.m. to see what can be seen

oh it's all repairable, and if I pull the engine it'd be nice to put it on my stand and work on the belts and such... but, and I totally agree it'll go another 200k, it's almost a good excuse to swap it with something else

too hot in E-burg to go with a dark color, IMHO, the rear window makes my Loyale the hottest vehicle I have ever owned - when it breaks 100 the A/C really has to work to keep up

well, I have a lifter that acts up from time to time... it'll go weeks or months without making a peep, then rattle away for a day or three and go silent again until now, now it seems to be permanent and the timing belts should be changed and the water pump is dripping a few drips now and then and the shifter bushings are shot and the wheel bearings are making noise... and the oil pump needs to be re-sealed sooooooo I'm parkin' it and switching to the Jeep so what's the decision? I plan on pulling the engine at my leisure, the debate is whether to spend a single dime on it or start down the long road to a swap and all the fun that bring$

1990 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4wd does not engage with shift lever - no dash indication, transfer case is moving (went into 4 lo, could tell by rpm) but the front isn't locking I'm wondering if there is a relay that engages the front end? I can see three relays and one large resettable breaker near the fuse box, but of course they aren't labeled have no manual, doing web search

does anyone make complete subaru polyurethane suspension bushing kits, or am I stuck with oem individual pieces, onesy twosy...

what about putting a preload on the existing rear bar?

noted

timing belt?

really? I would have thought changes to the front, the rear? that could be doable, what's the mechanics behind that?

unfortunately I have 3.9... I'll keep my eyes open at the next yard

thank you both for the rapid replies the answer -slow down- made me laugh out loud 4 lo would be nice <2% of my time, I'll be happy with what I have, 50/50 distribution can't be beat (although 60/40 would be cool for messing around on flat gravel corners)

If someone did spring for the 'show' rotors, it'd be cool if they did poor man's stopping tests before and after. I really like the above technical posts, fantastic research and info. This board amazes me. Group hug?

I had never even heardof an RX until I found this board, much less the coveted lsd, the locking center differential or the dual range cars... wow. I have a push button 'single range', and it's been fine for me, until this winter. but... I'm a little unclear on some ideas. The lsd I understand, although I was surprised that isn't the default AWD or 4x4 rear end. Q 1,2 ; How would I spot one of these coveted items in a junk yard? What do they come out of? Q 3 ; If I had a center differential, I could run a different gear ratio on the rear axle than the front? Q 4,5 ; Is that something I could add onto my one range 5 spd or is it part of a wholly different gearbox? What gear box is that? Q 6; what is the 'locking' in locking center differential? Q 7; anyone know what the power bias on the one button wonders is? Q 8; Why is this Loyale so prone to crazy understeer? Can anything be done to reduce that? Q 9; What is the weight of my 1990 Loyale RS compared to an XT of the same vintage? Q 10; is it just me or did they only make the RS to use up RX parts? TIA for your patience and time

My this thread wandered around a lot... He needs new rotors anyway, right? one point that came up was the effectiveness of his rear brakes. If it was my car I'd make sure the rears were doing their job, whatever they are. This is a good time to do a 4 way brake job to make sure there is no extra stress on the front. If money is an issue, I'd work on the rear and put up with the front for a bit more. Buy a nice semi-metallic shoe for the rear, replace the rear wheel cylinders, have the drums turned if they need it, have a surface pass done if nothing else... bleed your brakes until the fluid comes out clean, get all that old crap out of the line, when your reservoir is low, carefully clean all the crud out of the bottom. I can't speak for Brembo's. I'd buy a nice slotted rotor with a warranty against warping, there were a lot of valid points made in the thread about that being overkill, or not even useful... perhaps your wicked hill really is extreme enough to need something extra. If you can afford it, do it. If nothing else they will shed water better. Watch your lug nut tension, use a torque wrench to make sure they are all properly uniform. I spend 4-5 hours a day going from 30-0, 45-0, and 60-0 using my Loyale for a delivery route. I haven't warped my rotors yet, but I could do it pretty easily, our area is nothing but crazy hills. I just re-did my rear (drum) brakes and the overall effect on the car was amazing - it is much happier and more balanced, instead of feeling everything rush to the front it feels more like it is hunkering down and squatting on all fours. I've been looking at this myself: all their stuff is warranteed http://brakeperformance.com/site/brake_rotors.php?ad=google&gclid=CI_86dO2jZcCFQ0xawodCWcmow one final crazy thought, I just played with re-wiring my (1990 ea82) turn signals and corner markers. I don't necessarily need the hole in the front bumper for the oem signals, I'm using them as parking lights now. That bumper cut out, and the nut plates for the light housing would make a perfect duct location to bring air into the wheel well. It would be easy to make a collector*, duct and outlet in the inner (plastic) wheel well liner that blew air from the bumper toward the rotor from the inside of the well... do I "need" that? no. do I "need" half the mods on this bbs? no. but it is fun to make these things as an excercise in creativity and to enjoy our cars isn't it? *afterthought, hell use the light housings themselves as the collector, mmmm I sense another photo essay coming on

I am having serious jealousy issues...

slotted might be nice for shedding water, IMHO

that sounds awesome, and very simple, I guess now I must test my thermoswitch to see if it is working correctly - Gloyale set me straight on how to check that - 30 amp relay okay? thanks so much for clearing that up for me, I can do that with stuff I have on hand

Someone mentioned in one of the recent overheating threads that they had used a wire from the ecu to trip a relay for their own electric cooling fan. I just happen to have a reversible aftermarket fan from another car and would like to use it as my primary fan - to replace the mechanical. Ea82, A/C so I have the secondary fan too. Now, I would rather avoid a manual switch and don't go seriously off road (I'm not worried about immersing a running fan, if that happens I have much bigger issues) but the price of the universal thermostatic fan controllers is ridiculous. It sounded like, if I connected to some signal from the ecu, it could activate a relay and be a fan controller. Looking at the pinout from my ecu I'm not able to tell which lead that would be, I have the terminal numbers and the voltage listing, but not necessarily the function...