Txakura

i like that, i was thinking of an angry bee scheme for mine too

you better snag it before I do even if i have to drive to Kelso and cruise every street looking for it

hello, i did not post here first, but jumped in because i was overly excited to find so much knowledge and free thinking i am a single dad with my third 'bu, i had a 1976 DL 1.6 that was quite possibly the most heinous car i have ever owned - if it wouldn't have had the reliability of a swiss watch i would not have kept it so long then i had a 1984 (?) GL that was the family cruiser for a few years now i have a 1990 loyale rs that i bought from my dad several years back when i needed a car and he had an 'extra', we often talked about how it needed a bit more power - viola, usmb i was an aircraft mechanic (A&P) for 12 years on commercial jets before i tried something else, i did mostly airframe work and some engine (stage III hush mod c-1 disc change and some tr work) i live in bfe and prefer an uncomplicated and quiet life, i hunt, camp, hike and spend my outdoor time with my son, who is 4 soon i hope to replace this keyboard with one that will shift for caps

mind if i crash the party? that black and white one with the white around the hatch is interesting... could someone change the white to yellow like loyale 2.7's yellow? it'd be black and yellow instead of black and white thanks

for some reason it does, my dad put ps fluid in an ea82 and it started leaking, the more it leaked the more he put in and the more it leaked .... i wiped off the cap and saw the atf label and started feeding it atf, it eventually sealed up and stopped weeping between the pump and reservoir, and the pump body halves so, clearly, there is something about the seals that need the additives in the atf

jpg 33-37 would seem to validate the idea that stability can be achieved with a strut brace, that is a very interesting web find it shows that the body must be reinforced with doublers in the area of the strut tower and the inner fender to keep the car from distorting under heavy loads that is exactly what our desert flyer needs, and he seems to have the technology to do it - outstanding documentation, very good find makes me want to try it to see what it does on regular pavement!

do you think a tower brace from strut to strut would help? granted it would not help in the case of massive air time impact, but i wonder if spreading the load across the two towers would help minimize lateral movement and provide an alternative stress path to spread the load over a wider area I've thought of making something out of .090" 7075-T6 and using 'tbd' tubing with NAS bolts in close tolerance holes to span the engine bay between the towers using the 3 strut mounting bolts I wonder if the same set up could be also used to run forward to the bumper mount bolts... in effect you'd have a three legged bracing system for the top of the towers providing some stability in two directions, all the brace loads would be in shear and tension it wouldn't keep you from shooting the strut through your hood, but it might prevent more mundane damage, like cracked welds and interesting alignment specs just an idea, not sure if it has any merit

congrats, very cool (like the guard and basket too - not overly busy, just practical)

roger that, a ticking I can handle, this is getting more serious sounding than ever before, the water pump is really not so bad - (yet) it's a few drops of green dew on the pulley bottom - no temp rise, no noise, no appreciable loss from the overflow - just something i'm aware of and watch closely however, I spend four hours a day in the car and the combo of the ticking, howling (original) 215K wheel bearings, lower than normal oil pressure (since the -3 F over pressure incident) and the combination of all of the above, and every other rattle and squeak has driven me to park it and give it a rest, or me a rest, or both a rest the Jeep can take up the slack, and I can take my time to go through it with the daily driving pressure off and continue to debate the merits of getting hardcore serious about this new U-r-a-bus obsession

so my 90 Loyale RS part time 4wd non turbo needs axle part # 95AC-23 (23 spline) on transmission number AW-TW 75F5? and a 1989 XT6 4eat fwd is also 23 spline? I think you see where I'm heading with this...

having seen son of monstaru in person, I am following this with great attention, you do know you need counseling right? just kidding, it was great meeting you and seeing the machine

how did this turn out? I have a push button 3.9, so yes, single range 3.9 is possible...

cool, thanks, i'm on it in the a.m. to see what can be seen

oh it's all repairable, and if I pull the engine it'd be nice to put it on my stand and work on the belts and such... but, and I totally agree it'll go another 200k, it's almost a good excuse to swap it with something else

too hot in E-burg to go with a dark color, IMHO, the rear window makes my Loyale the hottest vehicle I have ever owned - when it breaks 100 the A/C really has to work to keep up

well, I have a lifter that acts up from time to time... it'll go weeks or months without making a peep, then rattle away for a day or three and go silent again until now, now it seems to be permanent and the timing belts should be changed and the water pump is dripping a few drips now and then and the shifter bushings are shot and the wheel bearings are making noise... and the oil pump needs to be re-sealed sooooooo I'm parkin' it and switching to the Jeep so what's the decision? I plan on pulling the engine at my leisure, the debate is whether to spend a single dime on it or start down the long road to a swap and all the fun that bring$

1990 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4wd does not engage with shift lever - no dash indication, transfer case is moving (went into 4 lo, could tell by rpm) but the front isn't locking I'm wondering if there is a relay that engages the front end? I can see three relays and one large resettable breaker near the fuse box, but of course they aren't labeled have no manual, doing web search

does anyone make complete subaru polyurethane suspension bushing kits, or am I stuck with oem individual pieces, onesy twosy...

what about putting a preload on the existing rear bar?

noted

timing belt?

really? I would have thought changes to the front, the rear? that could be doable, what's the mechanics behind that?

unfortunately I have 3.9... I'll keep my eyes open at the next yard