Txakura

this is a little OT, bear with me I've always been curious about those folks who figure out how to join v-8's for tractor pulls, mmmm k? I'd love to have a small v-8 from two v-four honda interceptor engines... why you could have a 1.0l, 1.5l and 2.0l aluminum v-8 if you could somehow synchronize it all... just a silly thought the swap idea reminded me of, carry on I'll just be in the corner with my fisher price work bench

I thought it was a piece of ring, not FOD

I got rid of that damn 'door lock' warning light on my loyale I was in the dash for something else, I'm not going to miss the dumbest warning light ever cluttering up my panel

%$#@ oh but wait, it isn't over yet. after I ran my new wires through the door pillar from the kick panel to the door - the passenger side stopped working I re-did my splices and double checked my connections, but maybe yet a third wire has broken while I was steering the harness around at this point I think the only way to deal with this is too take the door off, fish the harness out of the kick panel and cut the harness open and replace-a-way damn near every wire of course it's -8 outside right now... maybe I can bring the door into my living room and why do I want this fixed so badly in the winter? I run a delivery route in the car and need to be able to use both windows

thought of that, might be a good way to launch my car into the shed I may try that later today but, yes, it would be good to know if any sort of voltage is getting to the servo at all

me either. I can't find any info on the system in any subbie reference either... I did get a schematic in my email from Kai, but it is for a turbo 1.8 and has a vacuum pump and slightly different 5 wire servo unit I'm kind of stuck unless someone here has an idea or even another servo unit for me try, I can pull that module out and check the circuit board for anything obvious, burned resistor, broken capacitor etc :-\

ah... like my 60's cars had... vacuum diaphragm actuated valve on top of the manifold to allow/restrict coolant flow to the heater core - easy to tell when they went bad, they peed coolant on the manifold I came up with something funny for this, rather than screw around with that drain fitting and elaborate elbows etc... I'll post some pics when I get the chance - might even be useful for someone else

Make it three coupes, it's official. I have bypassed the main power lead in the harness and got the driver window back, and bypassed the blu/blk and now have regained the up on the passenger side... for the first time in two years, I can run both windows from the master panel. I had two broken wires in the door harness, main power and pass up. Thank's to all of you who helped me wade through this, we have left something useful for the next person who searches the threads for power window problems. On that note, I leave with this master panel wiring harness color code; heavy red and black, master power and ground wht/blu (changes to wht/blk after harness) - passenger window down blu/blk - passenger window up red,grn,ylw go to power window control unit under passenger seat right hand seat track, under carpet near door threshold (pull up sill plates, seat, carpet) the forward most device is the resettable breaker, it should have 12v at all times, the middle device is the relay for the system, it will have 12 v when the key is 'on', the 2" x 2" black box is the window control module itself the two black wires screwed down through the plate all the devices mount on are ground leads, check them for corrosion. many people said the main power splices further towards the middle of the car and that they corrode like hell, if you have no power to the devices, follow the wiring under the carpet and re-read this thread for ideas motor colors; passenger door - blu/red and blu come off the passenger door switch to the window motor driver door - blu, wht/red to the motor are actually coming all the way over from the power window control unit under the passenger side all in all I'd say that if you are having problems with your master switch, I'd go right to the driver kick panel - door frame harness and make a bypass lead for testing - splicing in such a way that you can always go back and leaving yourself room to splice well away from the harness connectors - be careful and keep your options open - don't cut anything too short and make another problem thanks gang

Your timing is excellent. I was just under the hood following the vacuum tubing around to all the components and checking they were at least connected. At an idle, I have vacuum to the strut tower device, (vacuum actuator?) and if I unplug the line from it, and apply vacuum the engine revs up. So, everything under the dash looked good, and apparently works with suction on it. but... this device, it has four electrical leads running to it + vac in and vac out, isn't passing the vac along. I assume this is normal at an idle. So it seems to me, it is this device that is not working, or it is not being 'told' to work. Kind of back to square one, I guess I can use the 'cheapest part first' rule and see what happens? At least now I know it CAN work if vacuum goes to the throttle diaphragm.

LMAO... I didn't have the right wire gauge to fix this, (on my way to the auto store)... I did use a wire to make a bypass and the driver window worked for the first time in two years... the passenger window did not work at all, so it seems like I can have one or the other, but not both at the same time. and I had a flat... and there was a puddle of coolant under my water pump I think the Loyale is trying to tell me it doesn't want to be fixed and is done driving for the winter

so far so good, everything I've checked - terminals and all - has been tightly packed with dielectric grease and corrosion free underneath I wonder if that's because we don't salt the roads here?

while tearing the car apart to fix the power windows... I think I stumbled on the cruise control box, npn, nsn, nothin'... I'll keep digging.

well well well I have power all the way to the kick panel, it now seems it has to be exactly as you said, possibly in that short run from the kick panel, through the door frame... It's pretty hard to see what might be going on. I was thinking the easiest way to deal with this would be to cut the red wire above the connector inside the car, splice a new wire on, and fish it through into the door. When the correct length is reached, splice above the connector in the door. By removing the tape and pulling the old wire clear while I worked, I'm sure I'd find the break in the insulation just as you described.

breaker has continuity, relay coil has continuity, relay seems to work, breaker power is always hot, relay power is hot with key on, passenger door window switches work fine, hmmm passenger side gets it's own power from relay but the ground is routed through the master switch? interesting that the master panel can disable the passenger side with the window lock out really seems to be heading back to the main panel power supply as the issue wiring is surprisingly clean and corrosion free, ground wires nearby are also clean, floor pan looks really good, no moisture signs under carpet heading over to driver kick panel to see what can be seen with master power

OK. after I find my multi meter and valium, I'll check it out - good advice

odd little dealy, not even what I was expecting the breaker to look like

yeah, I just didn't realize that meant pulling so much, that is one handy sucker to get to...

aaaggggghhh I found it, who's bright freakin' idea was it to mount it there, under the door threshold/seat/carpet? if this legendary system were to have a resettable breaker, where would that be? Chilton's is clueless...

well, I don't have the passenger seat trick going, but the same symptoms... where is the relay?

This is EXACTLY what my Loyale rs (Leone to the rest of the world) is doing, I sure wish I knew how this turned out... I'd be happy to find the breaker for the window circuit... where is that dasm thing hidden?

How much you wanna' bet some clever mechanic left that on the floor the last time my dad changed the cv joints? I've had them changed once too, I'll look for anything 'extra' on the outside of the case near the axles I once coined the term 'forensic mechanics', this is a good example of it's use

thanks, valve? are you referring to my check ball comment? the check ball is in the aftermarket recirculating coolant heater - not the subaru appreciate the direction of flow, now I am ready to install

that bulb you changed to amber, I just replaced mine and can't remember if it was a dual or single filament, can it be a marker and signal? 3 lead pig tail? when you say 'simple splice', did you splice the original turn signal wires to the corner light pig tail leads - therby having the original turn sockets left over? this is a good mod, my under bumper lights are rectangular and not as large as the ones in your pic, they would really really work well in the recessed oem turn location

some kind of stone guard is nice to have, if it's the strip I'm thinking of, I'd think you could use one of the strip screws to hold it and drill a fresh hole for the other light bracket hole - leave your options open, I had to play with my lights a few times to decide where I wanted them aimed I really like Skip's revised turn signals and lights mounted in the bumper, that recessed turn signal wasn't visible from the side at all - I totally agree with the idea of putting the turn signals on the corners where they should have been to begin with, and the aux lights in the bumper look very clean tucked in like that (-sigh- like I needed more projects)

Correct, the smaller one seems more conducive to finding an elbow fitting to route the hose tightly and safely, the really ginormous plug seems like it actually receives some kind of heating element that threads in, some oem deal if I understand the other post correctly, and trying to deduce what the function of something I've never seen before is... ha ha anybody know which heater hose goes to the core, which back to the engine? (direction of flow is relevant, the heater has a check ball to promote proper flow) thanks gang, btw, the irony is that the weather has been too crappy to install this yet