greggbrat

According to the manual the crank has to be turned 360 (not 180) degrees after the drivers side belt is installed before installing the passengers side belt. Can you verify this? And yes, I am having an rump roast kicking contest with myself right now. :-)

Assuming I have to redo the passengers side timing belt can I reinstall it without having to remove the timing belt covers on the drivers side? Or do I just need to start over?

When I put on the timing belts I believe I missed one step.......please tell me if this could be the problem. I put on the drivers side belt and aligned the center mark on the flywheel and the notches on the timing belt pulley. The step I missed was rotating the crankshaft one revolution before installing the passengers side belt. I just lined up the notches on the passenger side pulley and installed the belt. I am trying to figure out if this makes a difference??????? Does anyone know? I sense that I am about to kick myself. :-)

Please Help!!! Vehicle - 1987 RX Turbo Problem - Cylinders 1 and 3 are are not firing Background The pld motor was bad so I replaced it with a low mileage junkyard motor. I used my old intake manifold and every thing attached to it(ie. injectors, tps, etc...). I also used my old alternator and A/C compressor. I did replace the head gaskets and timing belts on the "new" motor. I am getting spark to cylinders 1 and 3. I also check compression and all four cylinders are showing good compression. I also replaced the sparkplugs to check for bad or fouled plugs. I dont know if it is getting fuel to those cylinders.......how do I check to see if the fuel injectors are working? Any ideas on what my problem might be? Thanks, Gregg

It can be rather difficult to find where it is leaking. I was under the assumption that it does not matter which heater hose goes where.........The heater core is nothing more than a small radiator and the coolant can flow in either direction. Is this an EA82 motor? If it is then there is another "heater" hose to check. At the front of the motor behind and slightly underneath the alternator and A/C compressor is where one of the metal heater hose lines feeds to the rear of the motor. This metal line is fed two rubber hoses......one of which is very small and other is a bit larger. These hoses are often ignored because they are very hard to see. After 25 years they may very well be leaking and need replacing.

Hey Northguy, I am not sure. My lift kit should be installed within the next week so I will let you know how it works out for me. It would probably be a problem if it sits that high so I would fab some sort of fix. Send me an email in a week to find out the solution on the D/R lever. And keep in mind I have only heard good things about the kit from Bratsrus1........I just hear too many people giving advice to throw more money at a fix when I can likely do it myself. If money was in great supply I would definitely get the kit. I am a bit believer in using junkyard parts. One more thing. Make sure you get the correct transmission for your needs. Your brat probably has a 3.9 rear differential gear ratio. Make sure you get a tranny from a car that also has the 3.9 rear diff. (there is a sticker on the rear diff indicating the gear ratio but you might have to scrape through 20 years of sludge to read it) And make sure the donor tranny has the 1.6 low range......and not the 1.2 low range. I believe the 1.2 low range trannys only came in the turbo models and also only came with a 3.7 diff......but just be sure you are getting what you want. You can also put a limited slip rear diff in your brat. There are some very rare 3.9 limited slip differentials out there in the junkyards but there are lots of 3.7 LSD's available. What you can do is basically take the internal LSD out of the 3.7 LSD diff that you get from the junkyard and install it into your 3.9 diff.....hence making a 3.9 LSD. I have the parts to do this but havent actually done the work yet. There is a guide (hopefully its correct) in the USMB repair manual section on how to do this. Note - if a 3.7 rear differential has an LSD it will actually say "3.7 LSD" on the rear differential tag. I dont know what a 3.9 LSD says on the tag because I have never seen one. This has turned into a short novel. Let me know if you have any other questions. Gregg

Edrach.......while Bratsrus1 kit will likely make it much easier to get the linkage setup it is not required. I did it myself (no welding) and it looks all original except the 4wd shifter sits about 3" higher than original.

The shop that does the lengthening of your driveshaft will have the equipment to balance it also. As for the length you will need 51" of new tubing. Basically they remove the joints of both ends of the old driveshaft and then reattach them to 51" of new tubing. Double check my numbers please! If its too long you will never get the driveshaft on the vehicle. Too short and it wont hold into the rear of the tranny.

anyone? Anyone at all. Bump

Come on you guys......putting in a tranny can be a one person job. :-) I used two floor jacks with a short piece of 2x4 on each one. Jacked it up, pulled the floor jacks forward a little, jacked it up a little more, pulled it forward a little more........it can be done.

Hey North Guy, I just did this conversion about a month ago on my 82 brat. You need a 5sp D/R (of course). You can find them in the junkyard mated to EA82 motors. You might not need a different flywheel. Basically you need to look at your flywheel. If it fits a 220mm clutch then your flywheel is fine. If it fits a 200mm clutch then grab the flywheel out of your donor car. As for the clutch you need an EA82 clutch disk, pressure plate, flywheel and throwout bearing. You might even be able to use the one from the donor car if it is in good shape. (Note - make sure you use threadlock on the flywheel bolts......it would really suck if that came loose) People have different concepts of which combination of parts to use but I can tell you I used all EA82 clutch/flywheel parts and the conversion worked wonderfully. Dont forget to have a clutch alignment tool handy when you do the conversion. You will also need the tranny crossmember from the donor car but you will need to swap the tranny mounts from your old 4sp tranny. And the tranny mounts will require drilling a few holes (in the tranny mount, not the tranny) to get them to fit. There is also the issue of getting the linkage to work. There is a kit available from Bratrsus....I think that is his username on here. I am told it cost $100 plus shipping. This apparently takes care of all the linkage issues. If you dont want to pay the money for the kit then The 5sp D/R tranny linkage will bolt right up without any issue....except for the D/R linkage. I took the 4wd linkage from my 4sp and attached it to the 5sp and it fit quite well. I did remove a few washers to get everything to line up as it was a tight fit. I also fabed up the 4wd low sensor with a bolt to extend it to reach.....but this is not required because its just for the 4wd lights on the dash. I also took the wiring harness of the 4sp and with a few connectors attached it to the 5sp. Also I took a grinder to the make the metal shifter boot holder a bit larger so all the linkage would fit into the original interior boot. I know all this sounds a bit confusing but just make sure you get a good idea of how the 5sp is attached on the donor car and then look at your brats 4sp linkage and it will all make sense. And make sure you swap the 4wd linkage before you install the tranny or it becomes very difficult to reach and swap out. When you are all done the 4wd drive shifter knob will sit about 3" higher than it did originally......but it still works just fine and is not in the way at all.....it basically just sits higher than original. You will also need a longer driveshaft because the 5sp is actually shorter in length than the 4sp. You can get any two piece driveshaft off an EA82 wagon or you can have your original brat driveshaft lengthened (which is what I did). If you use the two piece driveshaft you will need to have the carrier bearing welded into the driveshaft tunnel under the brat. Feel free to ask me any questions........I am a self avowed expert on this swap now. :-) Be careful of advice from people that have not actually done the swap.....while well intentioned they might be giving you incorrect information.

Take a close look at the intake manifold (I am assuming its a cooled intake) for leaks at the gaskets and also for small rubber coolant hoses that are under the intake. It can drip to look like just its coming from a head gasket.

Has anyone else done this conversion??????

If you park it, gut it and leave in a bad part of town your subaru will also likely get a name embroidered on the car. Havent you always wanted a vehicle named "Bitch"? :-)

a little duct tape and some magic fairy dust will have you running again in no time. :-) Was that 2500 RPM or 25,000 RPM?

You dont need to pull the motor to replace the clutch......thats a lot of extra work. You can either remove the radiator and slide the motor forward or remove the driveshaft (assuming its 4wd) and slide the tranny back. Of course it you are going to remove the motor for other reasons then disregard my little diatribe. :-) Make sure you have a clutch alignment tool for the job........other than that its a pretty straightforward job. Sometimes its helpful to have longer bolts to get the engine and tranny mated a bit easier (then you put the original bolts back in when its actually together). Or you can use a really big hammer! :-)

I highly recommend going to a local junkyard. I got a MAF for about $15 and the TPS should only be a few dollars at most. That sure beats the $700 at a dealer.

Thanks GD. Any other suggestions on getting a few more HP out of this motor? Do you think the SPFI will add a few more HP over the current Hitachi carb? The reason I dont want to change the internals of the motor is that if I ever need to swap the motor I just want to run to a junkyard and put in a used motor with no fuss no muss.

Note - I am updating this list to make it more complete as the information comes in from you nice folks. I am trying to convert my 1982 EA81 Brat from carb to SPFI. I have read every post I could find on the subject but couldnt find answers to all my questions. Basically.....what is it that I need to pull from an EA82 SPFI donor car at the junkyard??? Please add to the list anything that I am missing or correct me if I have included something I dont need. 1. SPFI Manifold (to include everything attached to it.....ie. wiring harness, sensors, throttle body, etc)) 2. ECU (located under the steering column) 3. Airbox, MAF and air tubing to the throttle body 4. EA82 Distributor (because it has the crank angle sensor. Plus I will need to swap in the drive gear from my EA81 distributor and grind off one of the mounting tabs on the EA82 disty) 5. Fuel pump (which I will feed from the EA81 fuel pump and mount the EA82 fuel pump in the engine compartment) 6. Wring harness from under hood to the ECU 7. O2 Sensor I am hoping this conversion to SPFI will give me a bit more horsepower and also better gas mileage. I know an MPFI conversion would probably be better but I dont want to muck with the motor or heads.....I am trying to keep it simple and yet do a little better climbing the steep graded roads of the rocky mountains with my 27" tires. I have already put on an Accel 8140 coil, gapped the plugs to .050 and changed the timing to about 15 degrees BTDC. I also put on a larger exhaust (I think its 2 1/4 inches) from the catalytic converter back to include a new "turbo" (less restrictive) muffler. I am not looking to make this a race car but I still need a few more horsepower to climb these big hills. Any other ideas that dont involve changing the motor/heads/cams etc????? If anyone has a complete writeup on this SPFI conversion that would be wonderful. Otherwise I will be doing a complete writeup when I am done. Any and all advice is welcomed. Thanks, Gregg

I just painted my 82 Brat. I used rhinoliner for the bed and the body below the trim. I bought some paint online for $62.50 delivered. (the paint kit came with 1 gallon of paint, 2 quarts of reducer, 1 pint of hardener, a paint suit, a paint sock, masking tape, a bunch of paint mixers and about a dozen filters......this was a great deal). I used a friends garage, compressor and paint gun. The brat looks great. If you are interested I can take pictures and find the link for the paint. Let me know.

I agree about 5th gear being useful. I have 27" tires on my brat with the 5sp D/R and I cruise at about 65 pushing a cool 2500RPM on the highway. Its quite comfortable. I dont know my gas mileage yet..........my first fillup since the tranny swap has not happened yet.

Thanks......I am trying to figure out what size winch to get.

Can an EA81 be converted to an SPFI or MPFI setup? And if so what donor cars would have the appropriate items needed? Is there a writeup on the procedure?

Does anyone know how much a 1982 brat weighs? (base....no rear seats or topper)

Its simple censorship............welcome to America. We will all have agents showing up at our doors soon. :-)