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If u want exotic, you should try tracking down one of the companies that makes done out ultralight EA81 engines... otherwise its CCR all the way

I've got one. Rusty as all hell, but its the 4spd with a LSD in the back. Loves to get sideways in the winter

I just did the Headgaskets on my EA81, not sure what brand I used. Will I have to retorque it??

you don't have any scrap metal you can use instead? You just need a plate of metal, drill two holes in it and bolt in on in place of the EGR.

I went to take off the rear driver side drum yesterday and it wouldn't come off. Is it pretty normal for it to require a puller? I didn't have one that size so I left it on, but it sure would be nice to check that brake. Its definitely a contributing factor to my brake problems. Even with my foot hard on the brake my buddy can spin the wheel with a wrench. My manual says to back of the adjuster screw to get the drum off, and we did that but it didn't help. We tried pounding the drum with a mini sledge and it still didn't budge. When I went to screw the adjuster screw back in i noticed there was alot of brake fluid leaking from somewhere around there but it could have been the pen. oil we used to back off the adjuster. Just didn't remember putting that much there. So while adjusting the adjuster screw forward it seemed like it was stripped or something. It screwed into the housing fine but it was really "notchy" and I could feel it making the brake tighter on the wheel when spinning it by hand, then once i turned the adjuster just a tick more and it passed the "notch" the wheel would spin easily once again. any ideas?

I was just looking at one in the JY the other day and any of the ones on the newer loyals (EA82+) had and extra fitting or two. It might bolt up, but it had more brake line connections coming out of it. Not sure on the legacies.

I've been having a ton of problems with my chaser getting it ready for the winter. Was thinking of getting this car and putting in my EA81 from my chaser for a quick fix until i can find time and space to try an EJ swap My chaser (gl hatch) is sweet, but its rusty as hell, this car is supposed to be pretty clean, plus its got the D/R 5. anything to look out for?

I'll try adjusting them today when I do the exhaust and stuff, A friend just told me it might be the brake booster or the MC though, since I just replaced the MC, what are the odds of it being the Booster? anyway to rule that out?

Calipers all seemed to move fine when I inspected them, e-brake and all that work good too. We got a new MC off the JY today cause it was half off for the long weekend along with some new tires and stuff. Put the new MC in, bled it, bled the brakes again, and took it for a spin. The brakes work a little better but they still arn't doing much at all until over half way down the pedal travel... more like 3/4's actually. After that they work like they should. however, they do still work a little bit on the first half, just not enough to be usefull. I can't just adjust the brake pedal to compensate because then the brakes would drag all the time a bit. anyone know what could cause this? solutions? thanks!

Cool site dude. Looks like you put a lot of effort into it. I might seem like a butthead for saying this, but there is something really bad about the way you have your site designed. Google wont likely like your site very much. That is to say it has very little to go off of to determine what your site is about, and therefore won't display your site in the search page when someone searches for a particular term. I have a feeling most of your business will be word of mouth but if you want to tap into a bigger market using searching engines, I suggest changing anything on that site with words to actual text instead of an image of text. It is particularly important that the links that link from page to page are either plain hyperlink text or the images at least have the appropriate ID/Alt tags. other than that though, bang up job! Hope things go well for you!

I'll get to that this week sometime and report back. as always, thanks for the help guys! This place is awesome.

havn't taken the calipers off, but the pads looked really good still. As for being free on the pins, do you mean not seized and easily move back and forth? I can check that but I don't think it's an issue. The car has no reluctance to start moving (we can push it around all day) and the brakes stop the car when the engine isn't running. Also when in reverse if I jam the brakes hard the front tires skid when the weight transfers to the back. I think the front brakes are functioning well, they just don't clamp very hard. I'm unsure of the back brakes though. It still wouldn't explain why the brake pedal feels "empty" for the first 1/2 to 3/4's of its travel. Likelihood of the Master cylinder? Vaccum leak?

I've got a 4wd '87 chaser (Gl hatch to the US) i've been fixing up so I can use it in the winter, me and buddy just put in a new headgasket and now we're working on getting the brakes working properly. The first 3/4 of brake travel does VERY little to slow the car, but the last 1/4 feels like normal braking, maybe a little worse. In another words I can't even lock up the tires if I STAND on the brake pedal. The car sat for 3 years before I found it, just FYI. WE bled the brakes and got all the nasty fluid out and all that did was make the last 1/4 of brake pedal travel work a little better. I can't hear any vaccuum leaks but it does feel as if the brakes are underpowered. What should I check first?

I've seen some videos on Carb'd EJ's and was wondering if it would make doing an EJ swap on an EA81 any easier. Less wiring BS to do with I'd imagine. At the very least you might be able to skip the ECU and all that complicated FI stuff, not to mention no need for a new fuel pump or FI friendly fuel lines. Input?

the hubs on my friends toyota would make a random wirring noise occasionally as well. Sounded like a bird squaking or something... it was kind of funny. For fear of his wheel falling off on the highway he inspected the hubs and at first glance said they looked fine. The sound didn't go away so he figured it was either a wheel bearing or the hub and either way its all gotta come of to fix it. Turns out it was indeed the hub. check your hub.

umm.. I don't mean to be a troll here, but that is just plain wrong. if a FWD car starts to get TOO sideways you point the wheels where you want it to go, then floor it. Provided it doesn't have 400 horsepower and spin, the front wheels should easily keep themselves ahead of the back tires. If you've ever driven FWD and then a RWD on the snow you'd know what i'm talking about. RWD might seem easier to catch because you can initiate the slide easier than a fwd but once its passed the point of steering lock, you're boned. Plus usually the only option you have to bring the back end into alignment is to let off the gas which increases the traction on the back tires. Its entirely about weight distribution. My old escort GT had nearly a 50/50 WD and was FWD and it was very forgiving in slides... even ones on pavement, you had had to have quick hands because of the short wheelbase. My vote goes for a mustang or chevette. You can pick up either DIRT cheap and the mustangs even have v6's often times. any other car and you're looking at paying over 2500 for anything in running condition.

It was the lifters. After visual inspections the rocker arms where all within spec. We let it run at a medium rpm for 5 minutes the problem cleared right up! thanks for the help! .... now its time to do my marshmallow soft breaks... hurry for rusted connectors!!!! here's some pictures in case you're interested. ^^^ See how the middle nut is missing? yea.. it fell off somewhere along the line. I suspect it was the cause of the headgasket failure. There was on on the head below that was finger tight aswell. my friend got bored and decided to have some fun painting a rising sun on my airbox cover.

If you could scan the FSM for that procedure that'd be awesome, all I can seem to find is EA82 Service manuals on the net. Do you know if the engine will have to be pulled to do this procedure? *Edit* - this FMS scan (http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA81/83/Chapter03-Engine.pdf) says that there can be a clicking if there is air in the lifters. The noise I'm hearing is pretty loud. When they say Click I'm thinking about as loud as fingers snapping. I'm hearing more of a clapping volume of noise. It also says to run the engine for 10 to 20 minutes at 1500 rpm to solve the problem. If its not air in the lifters wouldn't this do severe damage to whatever else could be the problem?

**EDIT** Picture below! *edit* for quick reference its an 87 EA81 motor in a GL/Chaser 4wd my suby adventure started here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94000 and more recently developed here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102672 Now presently after taking the engine out of the car and apart. Noticed one of the head bolts was finger tight and the one on the other side had vibrated itself off and into the oil pan! sweet!... so the coolant problem was indeed the Head gasket and not a cracked block. that's a good thing! Its all back together holding water and running now too. Only one problem... Its making a seriously loud metal on metal sound on the driver side of the motor. my buddy is absolutely convinced its something to do with the rockers. When we took the engine apart we left as many pieces intact as possible to simplify things when putting it back together. We left the rocker assembly together and set it aside, then reinstalled it later all without checking the clearances or anything. How likely is it that they became mis-adjusted somewhere in the process of removing and re-installing the heads? any ideas on what went wrong? the motor wasn't this noisy at all when i parked it last year with the coolant pouring into the oilpan (headgasket issue)

ill upload the pictures, but from what I've heard the freeze plugs are on the cylinder heads and can be viewed by taking the valve cover off. When I took the covers off there was nothing loose rolling around in there, and every fitting seemed tight in there. Any tips for removing the pushrods or things I can do to make putting everything back in easier?

87 Subaru Chaser / 4Wd 4speed. i've gotten around to figuring out what caused my coolant to flow into my oilpan during the winter finally and wanted to know if you guys had any tips or precautions for me. So far we've got the entire engine out of the car without any broken studs or bolts (lucky considering the rust!) and we've got the entire engine, carb and intake manifold on the stand. Me and a buddy are working on it and we aren't very familiar with subies at all. Any tips or directions to some useful repair guides will be VERY helpful. I've been lookin over the autozone repair guides and they aren't very detailed. Thanks in advance!

Finally got around to popping the valve covers off today... as best as I can tell the freeze plugs are seated in tightly... they definitely weren't rattling around in there... guess that rules out that option I did notice though that the passenger side head only had 2 of the 3 nuts on the studs... how the hell did it run like that for so long? I didn't see the nut drop out when I took the valve cover off either, that leads me to believe that someone just left it like that and installed the valve cover after. I'll try and get some pictures this week and post them, there was all sorts of gooeyness on the inside of the valve covers. Odds of a cracked block/head? Odds of a Headgasket?

in my experience with conventional 4 cyl's, Exhaust velocity is more important than sheer volume. So a mandrel bent system with fewer bends in it that's a smaller diameter will out perform a larger crimp bent exhaust, in both the lower and the upper rpm ranges. In other words, bigger is not always better, its just easier. Similar but less refined gains can be made. However A "tuned" mandrel bent exhaust will always outperform a larger diameter exhaust, providing good low end with excellent flow characteristics in the upper RPM ranges. I don't totally understand all the aspects (equal or uneven length headers... intake runner sizes etc etc) But there's more of a science to an engine's breathing than bigger is better. Food for thought. On my Mazda 1.8L I put a 2inch mandrel bent system on and that performed very well, still lost a little bit of bottom end though. Anything over 2.25 non mandrel would be overkill unless there's a turbo up front I would think.

Most definelty! I wouldn't even bother with it otherwise! the rump roast end kicks out on demand when its icy!

Yup, Its a two door Hatch, Wikipedia says they called them the Chaser up here in Canadia... Just the GL hatch in the states I think. Its a sweet little car though, With three wheels spinning it goes damn near everywhere!