tmonkey51

Recently I was having bad tick and had good luck with the Marvel mystery oil. I left it in quite a while. Then it came back for a while and I figured out it was the gas from the off brand gas station. It didn't matter that it was premium.

The strength of a truss is at the peak of the rafters. The horizontal tie or ceiling joist is probably only OK to hang sheetrock on. Probably you can pull a subie engine on a 2x6 but I would double it. As long as the cj is tied solid to the rafters with 2x4's or actually scrap plywood is good also then it should be good. If the truss has enough interior structure you could perhaps just gusset the gangnails with plywood maybe. Hang off it. It should feel SOLID. You could just sister the whole ceiling joist from wall to wall if you offset the joints about 5 or 6 feet. The ceiling joist in your truss may not be one piece, it may be gangnailed end to end. Be aware.

The mpfi sensor with one tab on it is seriously less expensive @ rockauto than the normal one with the plug. Can I make it work by soldering a lead to the body? Or maybe put a grounding connector the size of the sensor itself above the o ring?

I saved the pic These engines are obtainable that's the problem.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1259270952.html Pre subaru? This guys been selling this thing for a long time. Conversion to ea82? It is a 2 door wagon, I like those. Any history buffs in the crowd?

Probably, if your not a genius you can't do it. I checked all this out when I was looking at one. People change out the struts for normal struts. It's like the 95 imp struts that work. You have to get the adjustable coilovers it seems to dial it in . There is a link to the xt site somewhere if you search which gives a good explination. It should be in my old posts.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 I still have this bookmark. I learned everything about the subaru here, starting with the timing belts. It's kinda tricky but once you learn it a monkey could do it. It will definitely be one tooth off the first time you try to snake it on there but be careful and it's really no problem. A hot tip I read recently is to use zip ties instead of the timing cover bolts, I'm definitely doing that. Some of the timing cover bolt will spin in the plastic or break so be ready. The pulleys when they come have a warning sheet about getting ANY oil or grease on the new belts because it is corrosive so I took all my covers off and washed them real good cuz that seemed like good advise. 200,000 is when you need pulleys I think. You don't have to take out the radiator to do the belts.

The problem being that wherever you cut the roof has to be trimmed out some kind of way. Easy to cut, hard to make look decent. Plus, How do you make a tailgate? And, the structure of the unibody must be preserved. If the work is too much, having no real plan is way more work you can bet. I just really like the idea of having t tops over the back seats. I'm kinda hoping that somebody who can photoshop can put the pieces together.

OK, I've fantasized extensively about this. Get like a ''87 wagon, and the same year brat wrecked with a good roof, preferably with t tops. Cut the roof off the brat just as close to the t tops as possible and at the bottom of the rear quarters. Cut the roof off the wagon right about where the post between the front and rear windows, including the whole back end of the car to strait up from the top of the rear wheel wells. Graft the brat roof on at that spot thus creating t tops over the rear seats and graft the bottoms of the quarters on wear ever they come together probably losing the back doors but leaving a window.. Take a Toyota truck bed(I like the '77 with the old school latches on the tailgate) and cut it vertical at the wheel well strait across the bed. Also cut off the front corners of the truck bed and weld them on to the now stubby bed. Just enough of the corners to make the transition to the subaru body from the toyota at the top of the rear wheel well. You have to make the brat roof fit so that the back glass fits good with the back seats of the wagon or make a removable panel or just leave it open and war wagon the thing. The brat roof gives the roof a place to end in the back with trim. The front of the now bobbed truck bed should go right up to the rear bottom of the rear seats so that when you put the seats down there would be almost a full truck bed. Put some diamond plate on the back of the rear seats for those gravel loads. Weld it all together good to preserve the structure.

I have a 88 4d coupe d/r. The boot on the axle is leaking grease from the big side. My plan is too cut the clamp off, slam some wheel bearing grease in there and put a new hose clamp on it. I'm wondering if there is some special kind of grease in there or just regular grease? Thanks

Definitely planning on on the 2" lift from the previously mentioned link. Bad back means 2" matters. Seems like you need the 2" for the 14" rims to be just right. Looks badass, without overdoing it. The spring thing sounds even easier. Which Honda is that again? Either way I can't wait.

OK, more awesome imfo. So does that mean that any ol' gl/loyale with a dead automatic (a dead car only good for parts IMHO) is maybe worth putting in a auto awd leggy tranny thus creating a awd gl?(or fwd just to make it go?) Like this one http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/cto/1085419809.html This guy is bummin cuz he laid down more bread than the car is worth and then the automatic dies. This car (175G) with a good (say 100g) awd auto from a leggy could be worth it.