Markus56

SHE LIVES!!!!!!!!!!! In half an hour! a new personal record! the lifters sound like hell though, hopefully it'll go away Edit: Now it sounds like a VW TDI... bad knock sensor?

A-HA! Thank you Mugs for pointing out the possibility of switching the cam gears. It didn't occur to me why it mattered. I will get them switched as soon as possible. Thank you all, I will post the results as soon as i can!

Thank you! This is excellent! Now that i know how this thing actually works, it will be easier to fix

what would you have to do to fit these on a 91 legacy sedan? http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=216405&InfoID=4278&ShowLarge=True&SnipID=4440 [url=http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=216405&InfoID=4278&ShowLarge=True&SnipID=4440][/url]

hate to say it, but it sounds like a timing issue http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm

how do you diagnose the crank sensor, coil, and ignitor?

run over one of their sales associates? or the guy who sold you the car? ask them for a new car?

the igniter? and the dogbone? new phrases to me must be something i know under a different name. oh! dogbone=pitchstop? there is a module on top of it, is that what you mean? its plugged in. I cleaned off the crank sensor with a rag to get the dirt off it and checked its connection, its good.

Just want to put this out there, leaking R-12 into the atmosphere IS A FEDERAL OFFENSE punishable by a $25000 FINE and it is ILLEGAL to put refrigerant into a A/C system that is known to leak. This is the ONE time you NEED to go an auto shop and have it PROFESSIONALLY fixed. You MUST be Section 609 certified to work on A/C systems.

Check for spark. I'm having the same issue, maybe we can help each other out.

I aligned the lines with lines on the crank, and same with the cams, i will double check that i put the gears on the correct side, but i am confidant that i did.

No spark!! As all the connecters and wires appear fine, can someone explain how the coil pack works? and how to diagnose the ecu run ignition system?

I couldn't until today. I picked up a spark tester among other things, so i can finally properly diagnose this thing

they are plugged in. this is upsetting

i didnt't pull the motor so the bell housing connectors are untouched, i will check the map. a legacy has a map and a maf correct?

the timing is correct.

fuses are fine, found a vacuum hose under the intake i forgot about. put it back in and took a good look under there for any other stuff. re-checked the connectors and traced the wiring harness, its all good. I'm at a loss. dont know anyone in the area who has worked on these enough, i'll try to borrow a spark tester. Is there something that wont let the motor start if it is unplugged?

re-did timing and checked all connectors. no start. going to check all the fuses. i dont have a compression tester or a spark tester, or someone to hold a screwdriver. When the motor turns over, it sounds like it always did, so i assume the compression is ok...

I timed it off the marks on the outside of the cam gears, the downside is, i have removed the timing belt covers, so i am eyeballing up and down, and using the marks that are on the belt itself. there is a possibility that the driver side cam is a tooth off. i will double check. I am a little disappointed with myself, because i timed an EJ25 perfectly the first time

just put the motor back together after doing headgaskets. tried to start, turns over fine. strong fuel smell coming from passenger side intake area, pulled the plugs, and they are wet help?

Thank you for the clarification for the torque process. All my confusion about the TTY bolts came from this: Do I still need to back off the bolts or is there another procedure i should be following? I'm at a standstill because i do not want to screw this up

+1 engine swaps are overrated. regardless of what the everyone says (GD), the EA82 is more than adequate for wheeling. and driving down the freeway with 235/75/R15's (30's)

Brush guard taken from a Isuzu pickup and welded to a piece of channel, which is attached to 2x2 steel bolted to the stock bumper mount

reused the bolts, but used the gaskets i had. They were sold by fel-pro, but they had the FHI emblem embossed on them. this needs to be researched if fel-pro repackages FHI gaskets next question for the board: torque specs say to torque bolts 1 & 2 to 21 ft lbs and 3-6 to 11 ft lbs. did that. then to torque bolts 80-90 degrees. is that done by guessing? i know there is a degree spec torque wrench, but i dont have one. What should i do? eyeball it?

thats like a 10 speed bicycle (at's) versus a 500cc dirtbike (SS's)