Markus56

I just picked up a 91 Legacy L today. The car is freakin awesome! So much better driving down the road than a lifted GL wagon. It was listed on CL for $350 with a blown headgasket. (that is what he said, so far the car has not overheated, but i think i am seeing an oil slick when i checked the radiator. And the oil does not have a drop of water in it) The seller had posted it on May 10th and i was the only person who contacted him, on June 3rd. It had been sitting in a field for 3 years when i went to go look at it, and honestly i wasn't expecting much. But when i got there, i was pleasantly surprised by what good shape the car was in! I had my junkyard toolbox and an extra battery, so i slammed it in and hopped in the driver seat. The interior looked almost new and all the seats were still upholstered and firm! I turned the engine over by hand a few times, and went to fire it up. The thing started after turning over about 4 times and purred like a kitten! after haggling with the owner i got him to drop the price to $275. (starving college student/mechanic and all that) Here it is It has 238,000 miles on it. Automatic transmission, a working AC, and a peeling hood I was digging through the glovebox and found a bunch of service records! it is a well maintained car! All the fluids look new and its got a new radiator.

Well, I called the guy and I am going to pick it up!!!

Ok sounds good. I was told that i needed to replace the bolts by one of my buddies, but now that i think about it, he's never worked on an EJ. So the dealership headgaskets are only 60 dollars? Sounds too cheap. And can i get a testament to the reliability of the 1 gen legacy's? My dad is skeptical that it won't last too much longer. (230k miles)

I was going to get fel-pro gaskets, because i can get those for 40 bucks. And if i dont need to replace the bolts, thats sweet! Do you need to do anything to compensate for the stretched threads? And it is going to need tires, but i know a few places i can get deals on tires... hmm, and exhaust wise, they dont do emissions checks, so i'm not too worried about it. and from what i can tell, there is no rust, and the tips still have perfect chrome!

he also bent a radius arm

So the guy said the lowest he would go was 275. I'm not sure if i should do it or not

Hey what did you do to paint those interior pieces? What kind/color of paint?

oh yeah, is there some way of easily getting some extra ground clearance? OB struts or something?

I was planning on it The strange thing is, when i was test driving the car, it never overheated, or blew excessive amounts of steam after it warmed up... And is it possible to do the heads without pulling the motor?

I can get felpro head and valve cover gaskets and new headbolts for 165 bucks, so i think i will fix the old engine, if i get the car. It has all the service records, and the old engine should work great after the gaskets are replaced. Unless there is a reason i should replace the motor that i dont know about?

Pics:

1991 Legacy, AWD non turbo, automatic 230000 miles with a blown headgasket the guy wants 350, I'm gonna try to offer 200. do you guys think this is a good deal? the car has no rust whatsoever, no body damage, one crack in the windshield that goes across the bottom and doesnt block line of sight, only peeling paint is the hood, which if i get the car, i will probably paint it black. the interior is immaculate, just needs to be vacuumed. Another point is i am moving to montana, and i need a good car to drive from Western Washington to central Montana and back several times a year. would this be a good candidate?

That is what i was referring to. It looks like the rear end of a Subaru on a custom buggy.

IIRC, the fan grounds to a thermo switch. That is the preferred setup of most of us. makes a temp sensor failure nonexistent. All of the Subarus i have owned were set up like that. It doesn't affect anything performance wise in the car.

It should say on the outside of the old cylinder. Your car should be 3/4"

looks like the rear running gear of a gen 3 Subaru in some sort of homemade buggy

IN. Got parts and plans in the works. should be done at 2 AM the day of the trip

i brought my wagon to school today for an impromptu brake inspection, turns out that the old wheeler cylinders leak like a colander hit with buckshot. That's where my brake fluid went! Anyway, i replaced them, and the shoes, flushed the brake system, changed the oil and installed my rear axles.

But it DOES charge. One eye's red BRAT does the same thing. And replacing the link fixed the smoking problem And to clarify, after i rev the motor, the alt stays on until the ignition is turned off.

its a maxima swap so the pulley is the Subaru dual belt pulley. All contacts are good. that was the second thing i did. Drove it for a while and everything seems to be doing good, except for the alt not turning on until hit 3k or so part. Tomorrow it is going on a 60 mile round trip to my shop and back, so we will see what happens

OK. so when i start the car, there is no charge from the alternator. when i rev the car past 4k, all of a sudden the alt works, and puts out 13.4 volts or so, but then the black fusible link starts to smoke. so i am going to replace the black fusible link and see what happens There were no bad fuses or links

Dont get your hopes up. My lift kit still isnt finished and i need to make a skid plate

not yet... car is at home. I'm not

Well, according to MitchellonDemand, i need to pay attention to the red and black fusable links and fuses 9 and 12. should have looked at the wiring diagram sooner

I had both signal wires in both spots and nothing changed