Markus56

Before install side shot In action! That is my roof rack. It is a modified bunk bed. All I did was weld some ends on it and add light tabs. And paint it flat black :cool: And now it has 4 spot lights instead of those two round lights And i don't use a fairing; i like the whistling sound i make when i drive by

Don't drive into deep puddles if you don't want to get wet. or invest in a dry suit. or just do a 4 inch lift and save yourself a lot of trouble. Ask the board members who build them, and i am sure that they will be willing to help if you are nice about it. Sure, t-cases are great, but they are a lot of work for something that works fine. when you get some money together, just invest in a dual range 5 speed. that combined with your EA-81 it is like having a T-case, but with a lot less work. One eye has that setup and it works great. I can think of one instance where everyone who tried a particular hillclimb broke axles, including a t-cased rig EXCEPT one eye. And with the T-case, you will still break stuff; its part of the deal

Offer to drive her to work. Because her wimpy car cant make it?

So what is the plan here...

use a photo hosting site such as photobucket or picasa and then find the pic online. right click on it and select "copy image location". then go into your post and click the yellow box with the mountains and sun. then paste the link into the box that appears

what is this 8 lug you speak of?

The easiest thing you can do is find some Peugeot rims or re-drill some six lugs. The Peugeot rims cost an arm and a leg in most cases and you can pick up a set of six lugs from a junk yard for around 50 bucks. Try your local craigslist as well. i picked up some 15" rims with tires for 40 bucks.

I'm in

You could cover the whole thing in duct tape

Just finished hooking up the 4 lights on my roof rack, now i just need to organize the wires with some zip ties

I have heard that whitening toothpaste does an excellent job as well

needs more headlights

dont get mad. get glad

I just finished installing a GM 100 amp alternator into my wheeler because stock alternators to not have enough juice to power 10 headlights. now i just need the right plug and a new belt

1990 loyale wagon 5 speed gets 25 miles per gallon on mainly country roads (50 mph) lifted GL on 28's got around 30 mpg though...

ok, so its the strut top towers that make things not easy. Thanks for the clarification

I have been thinking, when you are doing a complete lift, cross members, struts, the works, do you still need to build the front strut blocks with an angle? if everything is going to be the same after you drop it, then you wouldn't need the top of the strut to be pushed in... correct? or was i just being unobservant and the top struts were already straight... or am i just plain wrong?

I did the same thing on my '85 wagon and i fried the black link and the alternator wiring harness started smoking. All i had to do was replace the fusible link and it fired right up. But there is no ECU in the carbed engines (i believe)...

I want to put a 6" lift on my car to upgrade it from the 2 inch that is on it now. i am thinking have a 4 inch drop in the rear with 6 inches on the rear struts and 6" all the way across in the front. What metal do i need, how many pieces, what size holes to drill, and how long should the flat bar in the rear be before i bend it? and any other stuff i am missing Thanks!

no, he bit it too

has anyone uploaded any video?

It was on a Toyota frame and drivetrain.

the blue hatch is actually a wagon. the setup is a weberized EA-81 with a late 80's chevy s10 airbox modified to fit the weber. the airbox came with enough hose to connect it to the snorkel. i am going to do the same thing on my 85 wagon