applegump

I've heard that Corvettes and Vipers get broken in at the factory and then get the Mobil 1 before leaving the factory.

Synthetic is always a good idea. I'd change it at around 10k and stick to it once changed. With synthetic there is no need to change more often than is recommended by the owners manual. I've seen tests where Mobil 1 lasted for over 20k miles but I wouldn't go that far.

I got some gold 16 inchers from a wrecked impreza with no problems. Looks cool too:D

Your saying that after 5k the automatic transmision fluid (normally red) is already dark? Your sure you filled it with the correct fluid and to the correct level?(Just to be sure) I'm no expert, but I think your tranny is toast. The tranny should be the same for both the '95 and '99 cars.

I've cleaned and re-oiled my K&N filter with a different brand kit than K&N. This "different brand" also makes cotton filters and was told it would work fine. So far it has, so it should be OK.

I would definately not run anything wider than 195. All the wide sporty winter tires were reviewed badly in a winter tire test.

I have yet to see a Korean car that looks cool or very appealing. They are getting better.... If I got one i'd trade it with any Subaru.

Snow tires have come a long way. I just read a very good review about the Bridgestone Blizzak LM18. Im currently using Continental TS780 with good results. Only thing is, is that they are expensive.

Nothing a little wax and duct tape can't fix

What about crash safety?

BTW the check engine light came on for a few minutes whilst driving and then went off again.

On occasion, when I want to start the car, it won't. I turn the key to the start position but nothing happens. After several tries, it starts normally and runs fine. I was thinking this could be the starter contacts again (but fixed that only 35k ago). Recently I got a check engine light and the code is crank angle sensor (had it checked). My mechanic says I need a new one. Is that what you guys think too? Couldn't it be the starter again? How can I test the sensor to make sure? Is it easy to get out? Thanks for any advice :-)

There have been lengthy discussions about oil filters and the general consensus was that the OEM one is the best and they are made by purolator. So either get a purolator or OEM. There are online sources like http://www.subaru-parts-dealer.com/ and http://www.allsubaru.com/ aswell as http://www.libertysubaru.com/en_US/ who sell them cheap, or cheaper than normal dealers. BTW I've only tried Liberty Subaru, I highly recomend them. For light bulbs and such there is http://www.midnightmoose.com which is also very good. Welcome to the world of Subaru

Europe doesn't get it either:rolleyes:

Welcome to the board! :-) I've learned loads form this board aswell. I recommend you check and change the the front and rear diff oils regularly (30k) and switch to synthetic. Same for the ATF. This should ensure smooth running of the AWD in the future. ROTATE your tires at 5k to ensure same circumference on all tires thus avoiding damage and torque bind. Thats about it, everything else is very solid on these cars. Enjoy your Scoobie and have fun !

I use bosch because I can find them in the right size. They work good for me and last for more than a year.

good to know!

Lorryb: Wow! 8L/100km that rules I only get 10L/100km if I'm lucky, usually 10.5L/100km with aircon and auto tranny.

cool site

Looks like an X5 to me :-\ (not the front but the rear half of it)

About the AWD, well it is as follows. You have two open diffs (front and rear) and lockable diff, all of which is computer controlled. If one rear and one front tire looses all traction, your stuck. If one rear tire completely looses traction you are front wheel drive. If one of the front wheels looses traction you are stuck :-\ . The car is 50/50 front rear in first, second and reverse (if im not mistaken) and 90/10 in the other gears under normal circumstances, but can become upto 50/50 all the time with slip. You can deactivate the AWD to get front wheel drive via a fuse(under the hood) in case you are using a donut type spare wheel or for maintenance things. P.S.There are Subes (not in north america) with a high low tranny. Hope this helps

A 2.2 from the junkyard shouldn't cost too much and most of them are really reliable so there shouldn't be any issues. However labor will also add to the cost, but equally if reman or not. I suggest you find out how much both options costs and go from the there. Or maybe buy another Subbie wagon of similar year and use yours for spare parts if your mechanically inclined. My two cents. :-)

I would reccommend redline oil for your tranny aswell as front and rear diff. There is a discussion on the board http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4160 about gear and tranny oil. I would do all fluid changes since you don't know what is in there and for how long. Can't hurt if you want to keep it running for a long time. I think the ATF is Dexron III but not sure. I hope this helps.

Check the fluid level, there shouldnt be too much nor too little. Also, smell the fluid, if it smells burnt, change it. If it doesn't look red, change it. If you can't remeber when you last changed it, change it! If all that has no effect then it is something more serious , but loosing 4th isn't too bad ; I lost first , then got first back:banana: , but lost the rest :boohoo: , then got a new used tranny and everything is cool now .

lol, I don't see how people can spend time to write a note saying that, but its cool that it was a note and not a scratch!