mr.radon

My '99 Outback's engine died while doing 70mph on the interstate. Pulled the covers and the timing belt is shredded. I've re-built ER27, EA82, EJ22 engines, but never been inside a 2.5l. I know it's an interference engine. I've downloaded the Twin cam timing belt replacement PDF from End Wrench. It doesn't go into too much detail what happens if you've got the engine going at +3K and the belt gives. Should I just pull the motor, pull the heads and check out what went on in there? What parts am I looking at replacing here? timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys, water pump, seals, vlave cover gaskets, spark plugs, coil wires.... I hope I don't have to buy new pistons too! Anyone who has done this job send me a PM.

Fixed! I got the parts off RockAuto. RAYBESTOS Part # 27837B (you need to look for Wheel Stud) Bought 10 since shipping was flat for 5 or 10 or 15. The rear was interesting as the tone wheel and drum brake (e-brakes) were in the way to knock out the old studs and insert the new ones. Once I got the one pad out of the way (you don't have to remove it) it wasn't too hard to knock out the stud. Had an air hammer but tried the hand version first which quickly got the job done. To reinstall I had a bunch of fat washers that I stacked up, then flipped an old lug nut around to jack the new wheel stud in place. Got it started with a wrench then used my impact wrench on full power till the stud was seated flush to the hub. The front was easier as that just required removing the tone wheel. The whole job took about an hour. Now I have 7 studs left just in case....

Got a 1999 Outback at an auction, two of the wheel studs on the RR are broken off. So that tire is being held on with only three lug nuts.... Any good suggestion on how to fix? Get another hub at the junk yard??? or Remove the hub and take it to a shop with a press? Anyone know of a good place to take it to in Seattle??? Where can you buy wheel stud for a 1999 Legacy? Thanks!

Anyone have a link to a Subaru Shop Manual vacuum diagram? I know the solenoid is good, the signal is coming from the ECU for some reason. If I hook up a PWM pot to the solenoid I can control the idle RPM just fine.

1989 GL SW, SPFI. I have to control idle with a vice grip on the rubber hose going to the idle control valve. I know the solenoid is good, valve is clean and works fine, what else do I check. It runs fine, but without the clamp on the idle air bypass hose it runs at 2200RPM. Been doing that for a few months now. Hum, right after emission check, was right at 775RPM. Oh, if I unplug the connector to the solenoid idle drops to 560 (warm engine only). Help please!

I sold my spare ER27 to my friend. He has it up and running, has about 12K miles on it. Awesome installation too. I can forward an e-mail to him for you if you like. He has tons of pictures.

I took a 3/4plywood sheet and cut out a hole. I use it to tap the seal in flush. I'll pull the engine next week and post pictures of the problem if I figure it out. Hasn't leaked driving to work and back for the last few days.

A friend at work has a collectors 1960's VW. In the middle of the night a hit and run driver wrecked into the side of his car. He got 12 recent sales of these cars took them to the insurance adjustor and got the fair market value of the car. If the insurance company doesn't make you whole and as long as you don't sign a release (read the fine print of anything before you sign) you can make up the difference in small claims court. If they bump it to a higher court you might want to hire a lawyer. I wish you the best...

gary posted this for me. Here are the symptoms: I drove about 1500 miles to Colorado. As I pull into Denver the car smokes (engine oil on the exhaust) and I pull into a parking space. Oil is pouriong out of the gap betwen the engine and tranny, its engine oil. I drove to my sister's house, I had to put an oil pan under the car. I was 2 quarts low. A couple of days later I drove to Colorado Springs, not a drop of oil leaked. Then to Brekenridge and then to Winter Park, both not a drop of oil leaked. On the drive back to WA after 800 miles I pulled over to let my son drive and I dumped out almost 1/2 qrt of oil at the rest stop. I got back in and drove to a gas station, it didn't leak a drop of oil, I added the 1/3 quart and made it to WA without any more leaks. While in CO I checked the PVC system, works fine. I rebuilt this motor from the crank up and I know I put the seal in right. I can't figure out what would cause the leak to come and go. When it leaks it is a steady drip to almost a small stream. I got under the car and looked up into the gap between the tranny and engine I could see oil coming out. Now that I got her back I'll pull the motor to see what is up, the only other seal I can think about is that darm crank case vent seal (cork). If you think it might be the piston clip access holes I used seal and torqued them to factory spec's when I put them back in (very doubtfull it's them) I pulled the PVC valve, its clean, almost looks new. The hoses are clean too, no clog. The engine had 8.5K on it since the full rebuild. Any input might be helpfull. Thanks for the post Gary.

Sorry, I used to be a crew member of the Kenworth T2000 race team. We stopped racing two years ago, management urgghhh. Anyhow, I'd like to correct that there were no Macks out there, just Kenworth, Freightliner and Molly driving the Sterling (Streling pulled their truck out or retirement for only one year). Molly didn't do so well since her main goal was just not to wreck the thing. I got to meet the Subaru rally team and pit crew since we were just across the road from their pit the year "monster" ran. I was pretty upset when I hear they were soon thereafter killed. They had the best pit entrance routine and our driver tried it too. They would scream down the raod, lock up, spin 135 degrees and shoot onto the pit ramps. We would all clap, everytime they were right on target. However, you should have seen that pit crew scrable when our T2000 can screaming down their side of the road, lock up the rear duals and spin on a dime like their toy cars. He executed a perfect 180 and drove into our pit area. I also have a lot of pictures we took of our truck when it went on a tree cutting excursion.

I already checked the thrust bearing, its within specs. The piston skirts show no sign of chatter. I haven't checked for connecting rod play yet, thats a good one to remeber. I the bearings and rings are pretty pricey - maybe I'll ask Santa.

QMan, the last bearing sets (rods top & bottom, main) I bought were pretty cheap. They were OEM too. The rings however I've never bought; they always come with the pistons I get. The one place I found with rings wanted $40/cylinder. Yeah the black one is still running great. I got Blizzak WS-50 snow tires for the trip to CO. Tore up Mount Rainier this weekend and Steven's Pass. Did real well on that black ice Sunday morning. Sell your Red one yet? - Oh before I forget send me the contact info on the Delta Cam torque cam grind profile for the XT6. I aslo bought three sets of those Impreza rear engine mounts. Will be making high flow intakes on all the XT's this winter.

Alright I lost my links. Who sells cheap on-line piston ring sets for EA82/ER27? Also need rod bearings and main bearings. THe on-line shop I used last year are out of stock.

Ah I just needed the push. I recently bought the car from someone who didn't want to pay for a head gasket. So I really don't know the condition the car waqs kept in. The former owner was a preacher, he didn't strike me as a guy that would be mistreating the powertrain.

I've done a few in the past. Right now I have a 160K motor. Had the heads machined and the valve/seats lapped. I checked each cylinder, they still look nice; distinct X-hatching. I'm wondering if it would be worth while to leave the pistons in split the block, replace the main bearings without ever removing the pistons?

Thanks. Since I'm traveling 3K for X-mass I don't want to push it. Most of the time I figure the pavement will be dry. Getting two new tires.

I have (2) new snow tires and (2) used snow tires. Both are the same size and brand. P195/60R14 Blizzak WS-50's. The new tire tread depth is 12/32, the used tires are 7/32. Is this difference too great to run the new on the front and the used on the rear. I have a 1989 manual AWD XT6. What is the max differance allowed between front and rear on the old school AWD systems? What is it on the new AWD systems? Should I just buy two new tires?

Nice car. We'll welcome you over at www.xt6.net. have fun with the ride.

I installed these same lifters when I rebuilt my ER27. Did nothing special, just installed and ran the engine. 5K later, no tick.

I installed these into my re-built ER27. I installed them into the engine. They didn't tick from the start, and were pumped up after just a few seconds of running. 5K miles later, still no tick.

Well the engine is rebuilt and running just fine. I put forged Wissco pistons into it. Rebored the cylinders .5mm. She runs real smooth. With a new intake and exhaust I'd give Q-man a run for his money. :-) I posted a long thread over at: http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3575

I own five XT's. Go to http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=387 They sell the complete service manuals for you XT. It will be the best investment you can ever make in your car. Everything is described in the 6 section manual at a sixth grade level. This is the same manual the dealer's used to service the car. If you run into trouble go over to the www.xt6.net site and ask questions there. More then likley you have a clooged hose somewhere and it is not a routing issue. I've re-routed my lines several time and never had a problem.

You know those lifters which were ticking. Well a lot of times they tick because the oil pump gasket is damaged allowing air to get entraped in the oil affecting the lifters. I've never had to replace an oil pump on any of my Subaru's to ever make the noise go away. Next time tell them to just replace the gasket. I haven't filled my PS pump up in years, its dry as a bone and makes no noise. Don't really need PS anyway. Also, if you have a good oil pump gasket and it ticks. Drain a quart of oil out and add a quart of ATF. I run this trick and it cleans out the lifters real nice. Seafoam works well too. Save some money...

Counting chickens before they hatch XTLOVER? Hey, I've got one in my rally car, but if you look around you will find nothing off the shelf that will work easily. I bought a kit that should have worked for an XT6/XT but ended up hitting the throttle body. You also have to get the right adapter plate to fit the MAS on the end. The other problem is, if you find one that fits, you need to figure out how to support it. There is only one plug and play intake on the market, and the guy doesn't sell them very cheaply. Nearly as much as you paid for your XT. Anyway, if you figure this out send me a PM over at XT6.net, I'd love to hear about it.

They did not offer this tranny with the SVX, only the auto because it could not handel the 3.3's power.