GorgeSuby

....so the plot thickens... I was all set to change out my hazard switch but notice my brake light fuse blew. I checked the wires & bulbs & not having a 20amp fuse on hand I put in a 30amp I had spare just to test. with the 30amp fuse in, my turn signal indicator lights(both) come on while braking! Am I back to looking for a short in the wiring?

Thanks guys, Seems to do it on left or right so likely not bulb/socket or L/R wiring? Also Hazards don't seem to be functioning so Hazard switch or turn signal switch maybe?

Hello all, First I Searched allot of similar topics here on USMB.... Problem started when I ran to the store on my way home from work one evening & when I came out - battery was dead. Got a jump & drove it the 5min to my house. It was evening so didn't want to mess with it. In the morning I hopped in & it started right up. Thinking I must have left something on, I started out for work about 30 miles. As I was merging onto the interstate my guages went dead - except fuel & turn signals would not work. Made it to work & popped the hood - battery terminals were really corroded so I pulled the battery, cleaned everything up & put the battery on to charge. After charging I put it back in & car started right up - but no gauges or turn signal still.... searching USMB I found similar issue & found the turn signal, inst cluster & alternator excitor are all on the same circuit. I checked the fuse & sure enough it was burnt. Changed the fuse & everything seemed fine... about 15miles into my return trip, cluster goes dead again & alternator obviously not charging. So far I have replaced battery terminals, replaced ad bulbs in rear & cleaned up bad connections. Started it up, tried the turn signal, & burnt the fuse again. Thought maybe it was the flasher module - replaced with Napa EP-34 & it does not even try to work... At my wits end... any ideas?

Replaced the relay(what a pain..) put everything back together - so far so good ... diagnostic cycle fires it every time. Starts up every time so far. Frosty morning tomorrow will be the moment of truth.

So I was able to back probe the connector during the diagnostic cycle. When the pump fails to start on the regular cycle the voltage is low - like less than 1v so looks like relay after all.

So followed Rampage's advice & used the test connectors. (Thanks!) After verifying voltage at the connectors, I plugged the pump back in. The pump would cycle with the fans but not every cycle? It seemed some cycles it would run every pulse whereas sometimes it would just click faintly for a couple cycles then run again... So what do you think? Pump failing to start intermittently due to: 1) Bad pump? ... this is about a 3 year old aftermarket - Carter pump. 2) Low amperage? Seems to be getting the voltage but maybe low amps? 3 )Intermittent bad ground? Not an electrical genius, so any help appreciated!

Thanks Rampage. Maybe I will try plugging it back in & cycling the power with ground on connector grounded to frame... will look into those test connectors too.

Thanks, Don't think it would be water... after I pulled the pump & tested it direct to battery, I hooked it back up to the connector & still no hum.... will try the back probing. Thought of relay too but after searching the forum quite a bit, consensus seemed to be they rarely fail & are hard to get to... still could be it though...

Hi, Guys I have been dealing with an intermittent & worsening cold start issue with my EJ25 Legacy OB... So far I have done a tune-up & replaced some sensors: Knock, Coolant temp, Crank position. It was running well & CEl stayed off but last cold snap it would not fire again & it has been getting worse. A few days ago I noticed that when it didn't start, I could not hear the fuel pump kick on, but after awhile when everything warmed up it would kick on & start priming again. I thought I figured it out when I was getting voltage at the pump connector but no pump sound. However after pulling the pump & connecting it directly to battery voltage, it fires up & runs... when testing voltage directly at the pump connector it seems to briefly spike up to 12v then nothing. Is that normal? What do you think my issue could be?

Thanks for all the replies - lots of food for thought... As for manual vs auto I think it is a nostalgia thing for me - my car history: 74 VW Van - manual 94 Geo Metro - manual 84 Toyota 4runner - manual 74 BMW 2002 - manual 91 VW Vanagon - manual 87 VW Vanagon Synchro 4x4 - manual 87 Toyota FJ60 Landcruiser - Auto 91 Subaru Loyale - manual 91 Toyota FJ80 Landcruiser - Auto(still have) 96 Subaru Outback - Auto(still have) 03 Subaru Forester - Auto(still have) So yeah kinda partial to manual, but I believe you are right auto is fine...

Just hate an unanswered topic even if it is 5yrs old... Found this thread when I was doing mine last weekend & dropping the exhaust did not look fun so decided to find out for myself. On my 03 Forester EJ25 you can get to the upstream & downstream pretty easily through the passenger side wheel well. Take the wheel off obviously & its pretty manageable reach. I bought a 12pt 22mm box wrench & cut a slot in it for the wire, you can use 7/8 as well but the 12pt is nice for the tight space & limited throw. Just an FYI for anyone else who was searching....

hmmm... yeah maybe I don't need a manual...

...Like it.. actually was thinking along those lines as Iv'e always wanted the EJ22 but would rather have a manual... how hard to swap to manual? Or maybe just can it & start from scratch an EJ22/manual vehicle?

So I have been chasing coolant issues with my 98 Outback & after searching the forums it seems pretty obvious I have head gasket issues. Coolant overflow reservoir is always full or overfull & it has started missing a bit under load. I was about to do a major tune-up since it needed it anyway, with knock sensor etc to smooth out the miss & was going to run the codes since CEL is on, but thinking it may be a mute point if HG needs done. I have limited funds but am fairly mechanical - though I have never pulled the heads. Car needs lots of other love too - oil leaks, CV joint starting to make noise etc... Not to mention it has salvage title, & body/paint glass is not great... So, if you had say $1000 & this car, what would you do? 1)Fix it? ... 2) sell it cheap as is + $1000 on another beater? 3)Limp it along & save up for something more solid? Just looking for some informed opinions on here.

Awesome! Thanks!

Gotcha GD, Will not replace that coil. I think looking at the wires it is an early 96 EJ25 but here are some pics of the engine & passenger side heads...Also the tranny numbers match so probably not an EJ22?

Thanks! Will take some more pics... quick look on Napa website shows my coil for a 95 Legacy EJ22 so looks like you're right...

Hi guys, I am trying to do a tune-up on my 98 Legacy outback & ordered a wireset & coil from Rock Auto months ago. Finally went to put it in & it was all wrong. I thought it must be a mistake so went down to Napa to get the correct set & the one the pulled up is the same as Rock Auto. Now this is obviously wrong - the coil on my 98 has the female sockets for the plug wires & even the bolt pattern is different than the one I got on Rock Auto so it wasn't just a coil swap. My ID plate says 98' EJ25D which seems correct... Any ideas? ... What gives?

Hey Guys, Have a buddy in Salt Lake who blew timing belt on his '10 Impresa 2.5. Dealer is telling him $3,000 to change belt, repair bent valves etc... Any recommendation to where he could get a second opinion &/or better deal on the repairs in/around SLC? He is a college student & not much $$$....

Probably just do both. Fuel pump is under warranty. Where is the Crank sensor on this thing?

Yes it was. Cleared codes & restarted. CEL did not come back on until after it warmed up & tried a restart with typical failure. CEL is on again but have not checked codes yet... I am pretty sure now that the only relevant code is the Crank position. Otherwise, I think it is probably a bad pump...

So I had a chance to try a few of the suggestions & run the OBD. First I check voltage to fuel pump harness & found 11.5+/- at 1 pin & 4.7+/- at 2 other pins, the other 3 were at 0. This reading was the same whether the car was cool & starting right up or failing. First thought was this confirms bad fuel pump? Next borrowed freinds generic OBD bluetooth code reader: Confirmed Trouble Codes -P0183: Fuel Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit High (Powertrain, Generic) -P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic) -P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic) -P0325: Knock/Combustion Vibration Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor (Powertrain, Generic) -P0335: Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Powertrain, Generic) -P0463: Fuel Level Sensor "A" Circuit High (Powertrain, Generic) -P0506: Idle Control System RPM - Lower Than Expected (Powertrain, Generic) I'm sure some of these codes are as a result of the issue rather than cause, but 2 that stood out to me are the Fuel temp & Crank position. What do you think?

Yeah, I'll have to check that when I yank it tomorrow. Curious why there are 6 pins on that harness? If it is the pump, It might be under warranty. If so, I will upgrade it.

Thanks, will try those just to narrow it down. Had that crank position sensor go out on my old Loyale...hmmm