GorgeSuby

Thanks for that, actually that happened to me on my old EA82 Loyale... similar symptoms too. Just thought the EJ25 might have different issues. SO where is it located on the EJ? I think it was under the disty on the Loyale but Ej has only a coil.

Hi Guys, My Outback is acting strange lately. Seems to be running fine & starts cold fine. But when I drive 30 miles down the Hwy to work & park it for a few hours then go to start it turns over fast but nothing. I tried jump starting just to give it a bit more power but still nothing. Got a ride home & then back to work the next morning & after sitting over night it started right up. I know it's either spark or fuel delivery but any preliminary guess where to start?

Thanks! Wasn't sure how much slip was built in - guess not like an AWD ..

Thanks Joe, I'll check it out .... what do you guys think about driving it in 4wd till I can get the parts?

Need a new Hub for my 92 4wd Loyal front right ... new is $$$! anyone have a decent used one near Portland? Also just did my Wheel bearing & noticed splines were worn but thought it would be ok so, when I put it in gear leaving work & heard the noise I was pretty sure what happened... so, since splines are stripped in the current hub & had to limp home in 4wd. Seemed to drive fine..... any harm in driving it this way?

Mine is a 91 Loyale & the line was one that goes along the Firewall from passenger side over to the solenoids. I think I unhooked accidentally when I was working on the starter. When you push the buttons on the dash for heat, defrost etc.you should hear the actuator & mine was just stuck blowing out the dash vents.... hope that is your issue - it was an easy fix!

Thanks guys, That's what I figured, I was pretty shocked too but difficult to tell her without making her feel bad . I have done allot of work on my beater Loyale, but haven't worked on the wifes Outback much - she always wants it done "professionally". It seems to still be running very well - no ticking or knocking & haven't seen any oil lights, but I know it ran a couple quarts low before I discovered the leak. In any case we won't be driving it until I figure out what to do. Will take a look & see if I can locate the source.....

Hi guys, My wife's 98 Outback is losing a lot of oil - seems to be from the front of the engine, smokes like crazy when at rest. She took it in to the mechanic today & he told her it needed a $2,500.00 re-seal & recommended a re-build. Now, I don't have $2,500 & the car is certainly not worth putting that much into it. Should I look into sealing it up myself, look for a junkyard engine, buy a rebuild? Other options? Just trying to get an idea what the best low budget solution...

Just a thought, but if it is push button & just not engaging - it could be the vacuum line & or solenoid.... does your heater work properly? I had a vac line loose on the Firewall which took out the 4wd & my heater would not switch to defrost etc....

This is more or less what I was suspecting - but will try the simple battery swap/terminal & ground check just in case.....

Hi Miles, I already replaced the CTS & seemed to have no effect so I am going to try some of these other suggestions.... Hope to hit it again today after work - keep the suggestions comin! Really appreciate it!

That will be an easy place to start - thanks!

Hi Guys, I have been over several of the threads here & applied some of the advice there but problem persists. Started having trouble with warm starts bout a month ago - it would start fine first thing in the morn & after work no problem. But, if I drove it hard for a bit & shut it off for more than a minute, it would not start. It would crank over pretty well for quite awhile(15-30min) & finally after seeming to cool down a bit it would sputter a few times finally catch & start up. So after perusing the forum for a bit for similar issues, I changed out the coolant temp sensor which seemed to have no effect, next swapped out coil for another, cleaned & checked most of the connections, & checked that I had a good fuel pressure on the downstream side of the fuel filter. Still has problem - also seems to steadily be getting worse & now it does not necessarily start cold either. One thing that has got me thinking: one time after having cranking it for 1/2 hr or so, the battery was finally getting low so I got a jump start from another vehicle - whamo! Instant start! ... no sputtering or anything just started right up! Did the same thing one other time... so I am thinking: the battery seems to have enough juice to crank it over fine but maybe the coil is not getting enough juice until I added power from the other vehicle? Or is there some relay not kicking until the extra juice hits it? Just a bad battery? Any ideas? Thanks!

Links broken on post #1?

oh good! That shouldn't be too bad ...

Hi Guys, My beater commuter rig is leaking quite a bit of Oil out of the passenger side of the engine - above near the CAT & axle. Like I said, this is a beater - I paid $500.00 for & don't want to put much time, but especially money into it! What is my best bet to get it reasonably patched up so I can keep beating it? I have already had the timing belts done - pretty recent, so not going there unless I have too.... Any ideas as to the most likely culprits & best fix before I tear into it blindly? Thanks!

...I bought my 92 Loyale 4wd 150k mi for $600.00 with slipping clutch so looks like you got a deal. I used the Sachs kit off Ebay & it has held up well so far .. I just di the clutch the normal way by dropping the tranny - no issues.

....well looks like I'll be into it soon ... hope the next one lasts longer.

I did exactly the same thing! Worked out well for me ... ended up buying one from Edmunds Auto E-bay store - brand was recommended here but can't remember which .... maybe post which one(s) you are considering to get more feedback.

These were "new" also about $85.00 w/no core at NAPA .... Hopefully they make good on the warranty.. main reason I chose them was they were in stock & convenient ... DOH:mad:

...was afraid of that ....this one started making some noise pretty early on too, then suddenly got really bad over the course of last week, finally gave out completely on my driveway(lucky!) ...Hopefully won't see the same problem with the driver side(same brand). Guess I'll try one more since it's a freeby, before upgrading.

...yeah I did Wheel bearings too, so ... that shouldn't be it?

Hi guys, Just wondering if there is anything I need to look for which would cause my new CV joint to fail after 8 months or so of "normal" driving? It was a NAPA gold new part so thinks its under warranty, but don't want to go through all the hassle without knowing if there could be some cause?

eek ... well the parts are cheap .... but ... never done a timing belt! Has to be easier than clutch - axle - wheel bearing right?

Hi guys, I have already done a pretty good forum search and come up with, what I hope is the obvious diagnosis, but just want to run it by you experts once for confirmation &/or additional suggestions. So here it is: Drove 20mi down the freeway to work ... running fine, then as I get off, the car dies on the ramp. I was low on gas so first thought was "wow, I guess it was lower than I thought!" ... put gas in, tried to turn over & nothing - not a sputter. So towed it to my work & cranked it over numerous times with same result. Got co-worker to check for spark at plug - nada. Repeat with coil - nada. So after some forum searching I decided to throw a new coil in since it was a cheap part & replaced cap/rotor wires. Still nothing, not a hint of a sputter. More forum searches & another day & decide to follow suggestion to see if the rotor was turning while cranking the engine. BINGO - rotor does not turn. So, after all that, am I 99% correct in assuming it is the timing belt(s)? Any other ideas? Thanks! Caleb