coxy

Firstly is it a solid lifter engine or a hydraulic lifter model, I suugest you check the stickies at the top of the old gen discussion to make sure which one you may have. May being the operative word as people can and do mix and match componets sometines when overhauling an engine you likely do not know the history of. I suggest you trial fit the pushrods bewfore you fit the rocker gear to make sure the cam is in the right position with all valves closed or on the rock between one opening and one closing to make sure they do not get bent again, Check, Check and check again and tighten the rocker gear slowly and evenly after making sure the pushrods are correctly located top and bottom.

Only one gripe really they should have made the EA81T multi point injection engine as the standard non turbo late variant normally aspirated EA 81 and then punched it ourt with a stroker crank to 2 litres with MPFI for fitment into the Loyal and the Evil EA 82 should never have escaped the Lab. Imagine how good a flat six EA81 type engine with MPFI would have been and then to add some spice for the XT6 they could have been an XT8 with a flat 8 MPFI torque monster, So I guess the biggest complaint is Subaru went mainstream and started making Cookie Cutter specials like all the rest of them.

Unlike other EA 81 vehicles the Turbo's used an early EA 82 Loyale type Power steer pump so look into one of those easier to find than an EA 81 MY turbo wagon one.

Thirteen to sixteen foot pounds

Try and find a catalogue that gives dimensions from either ARP or SPS and then look and see what you could make work. I have in the past modified a Nissan Z 18 Turbo to use Ford Windsor 289 bolts and used Toyota Supra ARB studs in a Drag Lancia Delta Integrale engine in a 1200 Datsun ute so anything is possible, though you may have to drill out the head bolt holes in the heads and block if the diameter is bigger. There will be something that will work just have to do the research.

Last time I did mine they were in stock at Subaru, I would assume the same with higher stock levels in America, You just need to find a parts person who can read and still has the old paper parts manuals as I know they did not put the early stuff into the online computer listings though they do have the parts if you know the numbers, How frustrating. I have a pdf of the engine parts manual surely somewhere somebody has a copy of the parts book for the body and ancilliaries in pdf format to download.

I vaguely seem to remember the TPS may swing in opposite directions something to check possibly

In NSW with our RMS standards (yeah Right with the current mob of Pakistani Engineers at RMS who do not have a clue) the limit for self certification is a 15% increase in capacity which means an EJ 20 is self certified as long as no major modifications are needed. So considering physically a single cam EJ 18 or 20 can basically be bolted in with a little file work slotting mountings for the engine that satisfies the criteria for self certification and no engineers report required. May be different because of your penchant for running LPG however so check that aspect.

You are not wrong there Jesek, Even the latest Oil spec reduces the ZDDP zinc phosphorus anti wear additive in engine oil under the latest standard so catalytic converter life is extended at the expense of engine life. That is why so many with high performance models such as Evo Lancers and WRX's have taken to using Motorcycle specific oils. They not only have higher anti wear additive packages than modern car specific oils but because the viscosity index improvers when seen under an electron microscope resemble a microscopic nylon clock spring that expands when heated thus thickening the oil and those things do not like living with gears such as the modern motorcycle engine contains because one oil does both engine and gearbox plus wet clutch duties they had to refine the base oil further to gain the heat resistant benefits normally supplied with cheaper VI packages that do not survive well in Motorcycle engines. The VI improvers often make their presence known when oils are not changed often enough as when you drain the oil a sludgy goop comes out first then thinner dirty black oil the sludgy goop is the mashed up VI nylon clock springs that get chewed up and coagulate in the bottom of the sump.

Late model alternators are allmost all Internally regulated so if it is overcharging it is the alternator likely at fault. Modern alternators have a main power output connection usually bolted on and either a single or double wire plug, One wire supplies ignition power to excite the field coils to make it charge and the second wire is often a seven volt tap off the alternator windings to send the correct power supply to the instrument cluster. Maybe the volt gauge is reading high because instead of a seven volt input from the alternator it is seeing full alternator output volts, Thirteen plus five equals the eighteen you are seeing because trhe gauge is expecting to see seven volts so at full output it is getting fed five volts more than expected So if the alternator is running around thirteen volts which is normal after recovering from starter load then while it may be a little low it is not unusual, Add five volts which is the difference between a seven volt tap and a nominal twelve volts and that could well be the issue for the gauge reading high. measure at the Battery what the alternator is actually putting out.

On further thought do not just trust a Multi Meter for voltage checks as I have seen them read Voltage OK but when you check with a Test Light the globe is dim showing that there is not enough current to take any load. Voltage and Amps are required to do any significant electrical work, Hence the globe by putting a load on things will add an extra check into the system to verify the circuit can actually work in real life situations.

Pre heat nah considering it will be a side drauht carb conversion I would look at something like a Mikuni Carb normally used on Harleys, Big enough,Jets available and considering engine characteristics probably not that far out of the ballpark as is for a good starting point. After all it would be a single barrel carb to replace a single barrel throttle body and just need an adapter plate and rubber manifold to make it work.

It may well not be the actual sender that is the problem but a bad earth or connection in the instrument cluster or between the sender and the dash something quite common as wiring ages over the years.\Generally it will be at the connectors or where they are crimped as the wiring on these older model cars is much heavier gauge than late model vehicles where cost cutting and supposed weight savings rule the roost. There will not be too many late model vehicles that will be saveable thirty odd years down the track.

1988 is now three years short of thirty years old, I would think that the first thing to make sure is working correctly is the ignition switch as is is a mechanical connection in the actual switch part on the back of the ignition barrell assembly cum steering lock unit. It is a simple unsrew to remove the actual electrical part and then check with an Ohm meter to make sure all is happening as it should there after all it is the major part with moving contacts that can and do wear or get dirty.

Pretty sweet wagon you found there and probably one of the most reliable long term vehicles you can own as well as versatile. Plenty of FWD models have been turned into four wheel drive variants and if doing such in the future make sure to use the later L series five speed out of a wagon as the RX turbo variants have only a 1.1 low range wheras the proper wagon is a 1.59 low range ratio. It should still be being an MY, Torsion bar in the rear that is why you cannot see any springs only shocks. As for the front springs the 4WD models do come stock with adjustable height struts a much better option to swap in. The Oil pump is easy to reseal with new "O" rings, do that first and give it a good clean then see if there are any other leaks as a leaking oil pump will run back over other areas making a mess and you may well find that is the only major leak. Finally welcome to the board enjoy the experience all on here are very helpful.

After having a Ball joint that would not play ball easily the last time I did a driveshaft my only option where I did it was to remove the lower control arm Inner Bolt and I think it is actually easier than the traditional method because there is enough movement that way that aside from the Hub Nut and inner Roll pin nothing else needed to be undone to swap out a front driveshaft. Bit fiddly getting the inner control arm bolt lined up but no big deal.

I would assume the dual pulley just means an EA 81 engined model fitted standard with power steering, Now we do know other MY models such as the touring wagon had power steering and hence dual pulleys but a different power steer pump setup and location. However we do know they should be interchangeable as a member on here did offer a kit to replace the stock EA 81 type PS pump with an EA 82 Pump which involved relocating the Alternator in effect duplicating the factory EA 81 T setup which involved using the Touring wagon Water pump. Definately go for a pump with cast Impeller, Stamped is rubbish Factories often try to use as many parts as possible on different models and often the same part will have different numbers simply because of a different pricing structure on a different model whereby they assume they can extract a higher price for the same part. A good example would be the lower front balljoint from Nissan for a 610 (180B in Australia) and a 240~ 260 Z in both the States and Australia, Genuine price at the time in Australia 180 B $42.67 240 z $167.88 Just as the Subaru SVX ran the 5x114.2 Hub setup and the STI as well I will guarantee if as I suspect the parts are the same the Impressa will have STI tax compared to the SVX.

Probably the same over there but here in Australia the biggest driver that has pushed up salaries and wages is in fact the Criminals in the real estate industry, If housing and Shop rentals were not so expensive then wage pressures would be much lower and Western nations would be able to compete better price wise and improve sales based on not just quality buit a fair price, Sorry but China Inc and competing with them is a race to the bottom. Germany has it figured out at least until their Marxist PM Angela Merkel sold them out to a third world invasion of Welfare bludgers they put in place the TUV system where nothing can be sold unless it meets a certain quality and fit for purpose standard that at least keeps the absolute rubbish out of the system as it simply is not good enough or in truth safe enough to sell in Germany it ain't available. Chinese electrical products can be very dangerous because of dodgy fake certification labels poor workmanship where dangerous electrical connections are basically unsafe and simply poor metalurgy and substandard componets or major subassemblies. Here in Australia we now have a disaster with dodgy Chinese sourced household electrical cable where the insulation has a life expectancy of maybe five years if your lucky before the fires start and they do not know who sold all of it and to whom. There have also been fake wiring harnesses from china being supplied for a recall on faulty airbags part of a massive world wide recall and they are not only substandard they are probably the parts supplied by some dodgy Toyota supplier that started the whole recall in the first place. So if "Pricing Competively" is the whole answer be prepared to accept your next Electrical item may indeed Kill you or the "New" China supplied Brake master cylinder that just failed on the eighteen wheeler up your rearend that is about to run you off the road and Kill you or your family just remember it was "Competively Priced".

Torque and other manufacturer specific apps are a bargain for what you get, However I do not use a smartphone but a Lenovo 7 inch tab 2 android tablet, Under a hundred dollars in Australia and complete with mini usb and most importantly something few are aware of that many smart phones and tablets do not have USB OTG which means USB On The Go this is a combination of both hardware and software that is required to sucessfully plug in usb devices like code reader interfaces and make use of Micro to normal usb adapter cables. Now because some of the software on my Lenovo Tab 2 is programming software for Ducati and Moto Guzzi ecu's the last thing I want to do when re mapping an ecu is to have a bluetooth connection time out or drop out and potentially brick an ecu, Hence the specific use of a cable connection. There are of course specific software for most common vehicles such as Nissan, Mitsubishi, Honda etc and many Euro models as well, So with a tablet that allows add in Micro SD cards for expansion and a real USB port connectivity this Tablet fits the bill perfectly sort of like a very portable laptop mine runs a dual core 1.3 GHz processor and has 16 gig of storage more than enough for what it needs to do as it is a dedicated tool not a toy. When you search for USB OTG you will be surprised at how few tablets and smart phones actually impliment the standard, But if you play with Car and Motorcycle electronics it is a must, a bluetooth connection may be OK just to read and maybe clear codes but beyond that only trust a solid cable connection.

Maybe a Suzuki LJ or Sierra is what it looks like, I believe they sold them as a Chev badged Mini Jeep Clone in the states, Geo Tracker seems to ring a bell.

Ah the part if it was available would be fitted to every subaru over twenty years old, You could always look into one of those TSD (Time Speed Distance) fancy Flasher cans Harleys and a few other things use them and they take care of cancelling the blinkers by themselves, That or a bloody annoying buzzer whenever the blinkers are on.

Oh Oh not going over to the "Dark Side" are we Jono.

I will give him a kick up the rear end to get on both USMB and AuSubaru as a few people are chasing some of the bits he has in the garage,He is only at Cronulla and should be back this weekend coming, Cheers.

Ok this is a 1.59 L series Low range into a later AWD box but along with the photo's will help you out as what you are doing is I assume a Full time RX AWD Box conversion not the part time RX box we saw in Australia with the same wimpy 1.1 low range. http://offroadingsubarus.com/outback-low-range-conversion-1-591-ea82-low-range-in-a-gen3-outback-part-1/

Hilux Rectangular headlights are a bolt in H4 halogen upgrade for rectangular sealed beam setups, Cheap and plentifull from wreckers while you have it apart.