coxy

Great project I was only doing one for a customer a couple of months back, Make sure you upgrade the gearbox adjuster to a both sides system to keep alignment square stock many of these early girls only had an adjuster on one side for the gearbox. They can be a bitch to adjust after the conversion but it is well and truly worth it. Great bike when finished, I don't mind the Ceriani conversion as it was a period mod some may think otherwise but it is a bolt back to stock conversion and with that as far as I am concerned just fine.

Ivan you might also like to try the following we have had great success with on Rally cars over the years when rebuilding Transmissions with Warner type Brass Snycros we tape them up with masking tape and glass bead both the brass cone itself and the mating surface on the gear the satin finish it imparts works a r=treat in bringing back Syncro's to life on top of the reprofiling you already do.Good way to extend the service life considerably as they are not cheap components.

Years ago I redid a Fiat Regatta for a customer it had 1 degree positive camber on the front because of insane headlight height laws in Australia that meant higher ride height to pass hence the positive camber like you have. Going to 1/2 of a degree negative did not impact greatly on Tire wear but the transformation in steering and I do not mean just turn in but actual lightness of the steering it was like adding power steer to the car.Like a Subaru Fiats are front wheel drive in real world road driving conditions, So it should work as well on a subaru. Rear toe alignment is very critical as to how stable the car feels in corners also get it wrong and the car feels like it wants to tip, Very obvious when only one side is out as it handles normally around say RH corners but woefully around the opposite corners Very slight Toe out is the norm on most front wheel drives as under power they pull themselves square when bushes flex and so forth, That way they turn into corners better, At the back just try and keep things as close to zero in all aspects as possible and it will work fine. There is usually some allowance for realigning the rear end somewhat by loosening and preloading slightly before tightening as there is some slack in the mounting holes etc so try that first.

Does it play up in relation to the weather, I know mine does and I am in Sydney so it generally does not get as Cold as it can in Salem, When the car gets older the lubricant in the instruments can age and get thicker so the tach especially can become erratic and sticky and not seem to work or spin up to a certain RPM and become stuck there, Just a thought I have a mate who is a Scientiffic Instrument maker and he clued me up on this one it may well not be electrical on older vehicles.

Start checking the charge output at the Alternator and go from there. Remember Alternators also require Power to the Alternator to energise the Stator so they actually will charge properly so check the power supply to the Alternator as well.

Certainly fixable but must be done properly which means using a rotisserie so you have proper access to do the work then when all said and done no big deal, After all they don't make em like that anymore. Just have a look at some of the basket cases the english and others tackle without a second thought,When in places where salt is not used on roads like the southern and Western States, Australia, Mexico etc we tend to over react when it comes to rust because we have it so easy in general. Much harder to make bodywork pretty than to replace chassis rails,I once had a perfect Toyota Corolla Levin 1972 Factory 1600 Twin cam TE27, Same problem rusty Chassis Rails and replaced both the Chassis Rails and Sills all Tig Welded and no issues till a Decade later the guy who bought it off me crashed into a Truck and stuffed the body, Repaired sections caused no issues whatsoever and held up to the accident perfectly.

I think too many people put a secondhand engine in and expected a bulletproof EA81,They have the same well known problems as an EA82 plus additional normal bush bearing turbo stuff if not looked after, Spool down warm it up etc. Used wisely after a thorough check it will do the job at altitude, But then again so will an EJ and they are bulletproof with more torque.

Use of German Wurth Timeserts with their design will never leak as they are a solid insert with a proper retaining flange at the top to guarantee sealing they are available over in the US and likely Canada and a phone call to the local rep will either purchase them (Bloody Expensive I have 8 sets in different sizes an investment of Thousands of Dollars) or the rep can tell you who in your area has a kit in the size needed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFhzMRmbeCI The above explains how Timeserts are made installed and work they are the best this side of something totally custom

Bennie have a look at this link I find it hard to Imagine but it seems because aftermarket Fuel Injection ECU's really started in Australia as a user friendly upgrade option for Import engine retrofits that we also seem to have developed most of the needed hardware instead of the good ol US of A,Anyhow with Fedex USPS or our equivalent Australia Post small lightweight item s such as this surely would be affordable to post OS. Full range of whatever you need is available ex Australia.This link is just one of many suppliers out here,Remember Haltech,Motec,Wolf 3D,Adaptronic,Link,EMS ,BlackBox (A Friend of Mine ) are all Aussie or in Links case NZ manufacturers and leaders in aftermarket EFI that basically started the affordable aftermarket EFI conversion industry wheras in the US you had Electramotive costing 50K plus for a full race system and until Haltech set up shop in Texas little other options. One of many suppliers. http://www.efihardware.com/products/c86/Injector-Mounts-and-Bosses

Wellers are an English Steel Wheel specialist,In Australia the same style was Initially sold as Sunraysia's ( A Desert area of Western Victoria the same state that hosts both the F1,Moto GP and Superbike Races,Such rims are still sold by Performance Wheels in 14X6' and of course the Minilite style Performance 15x6" Alloys popular with Retro Car owners both here and in the UK possibly available from memory through someone in Arizona. http://www.performancewheels.com.au/Home/Wheels.asp?theGroup=C&Cat=Classic

Resurfacing flywheels is another thing altogether the equipment is very expensive but I know someone who made their own flywheel grinding machine and it cost about a thousand dollars all up. This may interest you Shawn as it is doable and saves waiting for the machine shop when you do not have a flywheel grinder and works a treat. Stan started with a round table drill press made in Taiwan and converted the table to run on tapered wheel bearings,He them made up an adaptor to take a cup style grinding wheel and ran the press at the lowest speed possible,then by giving the now free spinning table a spin and lowering the cup type grinding wheel to the table he dressed the table to be perfectly square to the grinding wheel. When clamping a flywheel to the table one simply offsets the table to the centreline of the grinding wheel slightly and gives it a spin and the grinding wheel offset keps it turning nicely when the cup type grinding wheel is lowered down to reface the flywheel. The result is a perefect finish that cannot be distinguished from the work being done on a machine worth ten to twenty thousand dollars but it cost less than a thousand and a day to make.

It would be interesting to read this thread if for instance they had made a Loyale version Brat and a Forester version Brat but I still believe that people would have both if they could. Rust the bugbear of owners of all cars is relative considering some of the project repairs that have been on the site over the years,Someplace like here in Australia people throw away things for rust that in say the East Coast of the US and the UK will be considered a good basis for a rebuild. Take the UK for instance because of all the Salt on the roads there they do not flinch in replacing inner and outer sills,Floorpans guards etc because if they shy away from such an effort they would have no old cars at all. 60's ,70's and 80's Cars that we may now consider not worth the effort we will likely in 10 or 20 years time regret not saving and have decided that the repairs needed were not actually that bad it is all about perception and the same will occurr in 20 years time for the new gen models but they will be harder to repair because of all the plastic as it does not last forever and is harder to repair to a decent standard. Therefore as most of us have recognised it is all about what means something to you and most importantly something that was not designed to be used for 10 years and thrown away. I rebuilt a Datsun 180B (610) for a customer used an Z22 bottom end L series cylinder head,full body work and retrim,then their new son arrived and was very sick for 18 months back and forth to Hospital and that car never let them down once. It will never be sold and will be given to the Son on his 21st Birthday things such as that cannot be quantified by Logic it is all about emotional ties or we would all ditch our Grandmothers because they are too old and out of date I think sums things up perfectly. When considering just how few years many newer cars last before they become not financially viable to fix (Modern Auto's anyone) then the so called green aspect of modern vehicles is basically BS considering all the recources and energy required to manufacture them in the first place and that a decade later many have gone but the earlier ones still soldier on. Plus as Jezzek said FUN seems to have gone missing in so much modern stuff not just cars or wheelers.

While it generally works OK on single cylinder motorcycles and effectively twins also like Subaru's one must always be carefull with higher compression engines or Turbocharged ones to make sure the Chamber volume is at least consistent between cylinders or it will ping/detonate on one cylindser under the right circumstances. Even some machine shops get that wrong so it pays to measure the actual head thickness at each end on a Subaru ie measure from head gasket surface to rocker cover gasket surface. With the example shown while warpage is obvious it is centralised as normal with Subaru heads so the chamber volume while smaller will likely be even between cylinders,However if the same occurs with a set of V8 heads or an inline 4 then the outer cylinder can end up with a noticeably higher static compression ratio than the inner cylinders,With a high performance hi comp or turbo motor that can lead to detonation issues. I have also seen heads from a datsun B110 (1200) that were dcifferent to the tune of 60 thou less material at one end done by some machine shop so when I measured the chamber volumes there was a range of 11cc difference between one end and the other,Just a warning of another thing to look for when doing this method or for that matter after the shop machines something for you. A cheap method of cc heads is to use a bit of perspex and go to the local Vet and buy a graduated syringe a big one to fill with kero to actually do the measurement,Seal the perspex with grease and it needs two holes in it,One to fill through and one to bleed the air.I am lucky enough to have a proper burette setup but the above method works OK done with care.

Sure it is timed correctly re spark on the correct cylinder at the Compression stroke,You can have cam timing 180 degrees out and it will work but the spark is not occuring on the correct stroke,Just a thought. Cheers Coxy

No matter where we are in the world that is why we drive Subaru.

Subaru's and many other japanese vehicles of the era used switched earth headlight systems. This means headlight switch operates relay to earth for low beam operation,Steering column switch supplies an earth to operate what is known as the changeover relay only.This relay provides the earth for high beam and at the same time open circuits the earth for low beam in dual headlight vehicles to extinguish low beam. With quad headlight models low beam is usually the outers and remains energised as the relay fitted to these models does not open circuit the low beam circuit so that you have all four lights on for high beam. Your problem may be the changeover relay.

Graphite is Carbon and hence electrically conductive I prefer Teflon lube spray sometimes known as dry lube in Locks especially Ignition.

Capacitor Discharge Ignition system must take a photo of my Brumby Engine bay to show you one installed,though I have modified mine somewhat by mounting the coil and Ignition pack in a finned aluminium coil mounting I took out of My Alfa Romeo Sprint which is also a real deluxe item as Coils and all Electronics and Electricals hate heat.

http://ausubaru.wikidot.com/ Have fun guys and gals new Tech Wiki for Ausubaru Forum some of you guys and gals are on already.

http://www.performancewheels.com.au/SiteMgt/ww_Standard.asp?SitePageId=214 Then there are these Enke style in 10 spoke listed under products subsection classic are available in 4x140 pattern in 15 inch and also a nice once in modular style in 14x6 inch in 4x140 pattern. There are also some really nice rides shown in the Gallery as well worth looking at to see how the wheels look on some cars you guys are familiar with and a few you haven't seen also. The Wheels look really good but are too big to upload here so check the site out. Another really nice wheel is Simmons also Australian and one few have heard of not cheap and competition orientated is Braid out of Spain that few even here in australia know about. http://www.braid.es/wheels/

I have done crossmember conversions in the past using toyota hilux(Tacoma maybe in the USA) bolts for the contol arms. They have a built in offset washer arrangement really thick and strong compared to aftermarket types,Similar setups used on Ford Falcons. You slot the hole horizontally in the crossmember and weld some decent 1/4" thick metal for the location of the washer arrangement on both sides,Then you twist the bolt and the offset washers rotate within the welded sections and the inner Control arm locating bolt moves in and out as needed adjusting the camber. The advantage of doing it this way is it is a factory type setup and gives adjustment individually for both sides for correction purposes also.

FMF Powerbomb pipes are a real mongrel to jet on the dyno compared to a normal pipe so I wouldn't want one on a car engine.

GD a good trick I and others I know in the rally preparation business use with the Brass Cone Borg warner style syncros is to tape up the sections on the gear you dont want blasted and glass bead the syncro cones and the matching section on the gear. Often when the syncro is lazy rather than damaged on the little gear teeth glass beading to give a satin type finish will bring the syncro action back to as new for years of road use. Even in the rally cars they are generally good for a couple of seasons with a good driver,Bad drivers on the other hand can destroy a gearbox in one event.

First Subaru Twin carb engines were in the 1400 GSR coupe and GS Coupes from 1st December 1972 these were the EA63 type Engines in a more sporting Variant. Weber Carbs were never fitted to any production Subaru but only available as a Sports option kit for Motorsport use and then only in very small numbers. Australia was the first place outside of Japan where Subaru competed internationally in the Southern Cross Rallies in NSW,I should have some photos from back then I will scan and upload. Here is also a Link to Subaru Philosophy,It can be not so intuative to navigate through to find information so I suggest searching via google or some other search engine for topics on the Subaru Philosophy site. It is full of information not available in the past. http://subaru-philosophy.com/post/27968951632/leone-debut

Sounds to me like a lean engine scenario,if there are no mechanical or electrical issues maybe the problem is lean because over the last twenty years fuels have changed and are generally higher specific gravity ( ie thicker) so they do not flow through either jets or injectors like they did with older fuels. Many a vehicle car or bike with carby richening up the jetting does wonders bit harder with EFI though,I have always thought though about using a motorcycle powercommander at least on EA81 or 82 turbos with 4 injectors just get one from a BMW K1200 RS with Bosch injectors as the connections will fit a subie and you have an easy to fit and tuneable Subie piggyback system for a bargain price. Single point though have to play injectors ar fool the system electrically to do something.