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You can just swap the back section of the ignition switch and keep the keys matching as the electrical section is held on as a subassembly with two screws. That starter solenoid issue is more common to other vehicles than people realsie,I generally use the original wire to switch a heavy duty relay so direct battery power is relay switched to the solenoid then they are much better and more reliable as you take the electrical loaqd away from the ignition switch.

I think Todds Daughter might disagree with that sentiment she is a smart girl and would obviously take the 82 GL 10 what a sweet wagon project.

Carefull about getting carbon stuck under the valves keep it running at medium revs to avoid that problem when cleaning out engine with seafoam or Subaru upper cylinder cleaner.

Why megasquirt,Look into running a Power Commander as normally used on bikes,Simply a case of matching up the injector hookup for a four cylinder model,Early Subies use Bosch type injector hookups so a Power commander for say a BMW K100.K1100 or K1200rs will work. Power commander(Dynojet) also now have their piggyback system available for Mitsubishi evo 10 and later WRX in standard replacement piggyback system,Much cheaper option and easy to tune. Later power commander five versions are slowly being upgraded to have fuel and Ignition in one box.earlier PC3 usb models need an additional ignition box but both have an analog input option stock that can be used for boosted applications with a boost correction map. Likely more reliable than a poorly made Megasquirt as if the Power commander fails simply unplug it to get home on the stock ECU.

Life sucks Murphy as modded is exactly what is fitted to my Brumby,Brumbys come with a very standard dash here and I upgraded mine to the sport dash as fitted to EA81 sedans or wagons in hiline trim models they are exactly like your modded dash in murphy standard with orange lighting etc so no mods needed.

Good you solved the problem, remember the gravity bleeding method so you avoid the seal issue in future just in case,while it is obviously preferable to fit a new Master cylinder people are not always able to budget for one when it fails like that. Best not to be caught out if possible.

If you go aftermarket it will possibly give you the option of an adjustable switching point as well so the electric fan can be adjusted to come in earlier. Many later engines are set to run very hot ex factory so much so I think the thermo cuts in after the overheat scenario occurs. I reprogram Triumph motorcycles and Ducati's and BMW's because I have the software to change the cut in and out points for the thermos makes a big difference,No point in cutting thermo fans in at 106 degrees celcius(roughly 225 degrees farenheight) like they do on modern engines for emmisions reasons better the cut in around 85 degrees farenheight before they get too hot easier to control temps that way.

Probably gummed up from sitting so long,try running either an engine flush through the system or run some diesel engine oil as it is high detergent and a few changes of that will clean it out pretty good,Change it on a regular basis though to get all the muck out quickly diesel engine oil such as shell rotella seems to get used often in the states possibly for that reason.

Brumby's (Brats) out here run a small mechanical fan on the idler pulley not the water pump and a larger single electric one on the right side looking forward,what does the Brat use twin thermos,I like our setup better more reliable

Disconnect the old battery as if it is really dead then it will suck all the current and stop the car starting.Either substitute a known good one or try running purely off the jump vehicle battery,Do not allow it to run and have the jump leads come loose or it can damage the charging system,Better to swap out the battery

Are you sure the electric fan did work as the mechanical one runs all the time anyway,The thermo switch can still be the issue as in it switches in too late or the radiator may simply be getting tired and need a flush or recore is another possibility,Fine when enough airflow is available but marginal when stuck in traffic ewspecially at those outside temps.

Depends on what you use the vehicle for,If you mainly run in sand or mud then the viscous type lsd actually works pretty good as used in later models,WRX etc. The hotter the fluid gets the more it locks up so working it harder makes it more effective,Also probably a safer alternative in snowy conditions as they will allow better turn in in 4WD mode causing less understeer and torque lockup in conditions where the tranny can start to bind up because there is not enough slip between front and rear drive axles.

Plus 1 on the electric fan not cutting in,they do so so rarely that when what you experienced is generally the first sign of trouble. You can manually triger the fan to make sure it's OK and thus come to the thermo switch in the radiator being the issue,Simply run a power wire ti the fan relay to trigger the system if that works then the thermo switch is the problem which is the most likely problem.

http://www.performancegarage.com.au/blog/simmons-retro-revival Simmons Wheels have been around for a long time in Australia and When Tony the Original owner retired the business was sold off piecemeal with rights to manufacture going to two different businesses,This one highlighted here caters to more old school stuff. The other guys cater to more modern products,My Bosses nephew just received the first set of 24" rims made which we just fitted to his lexus,I will take a photo of them and post up next week.meanwhile check the link for some cool wheels and nice Aussie Muscle cars.

Old trick I use a washed out 600ML Coke bottle and fill it with brake fluid when upended into the master cylinder it will not all run out but will keep the fluid level topped up as it only flows to keep the level the same. Then fit a drain line and open the bleed nipple and gravity will do the rest with the difference in height allowing a pressure difference,This is very usefull for when you think about it with an older cehicle the travel of the master cylinder piston assembly may be say 20mm and will leave a slight wear lip at that point,When you suddenly start to pump the brakes to bleed them and the seals on the master cylinder piston travel past the normal point of travel you can damage the seals and they will not bleed the air out. This is why mechanics use either gravity bleeding or vacuum or pressure bleeding systems rather than the old pump the brakes method. It is very hard trying to explain to a customer that the brakes that worked OK when they dropped the car off now need replacing because you tried to bleed the brakes to flush old dirty fluid and killed the original seals by pushing them past a wear ridge inside the master cylinder inpumping the Brakes,They just don't understand and think you are trying to shaft them.

One very interesting aspect I have yet to see anyone mention is I use Motorcycle oils rather then car oils,Reason being they do not run any so called friction modifers because of the Wet clutch pack used in motorcycles. When you do some research into Multigrade Oils either synthetic or Mineral based look into oil thickeners,basically what they use are Nylon based miniature additive package that resembles a clock spring spiral when cold it contracts when hot it expands. The problem with these is any engine such as an EA81 with gears inside mulches up these additives and you can tell as when you change oils on an Engine yhat has not had regular oil changes the first thing that drains is a thick sludgey mess.Basically all of the remnants of this additive package mulched up and coagulated on the bottom of the Oil pan. The most important additive used in Oils be they Mineral or Synthetic based is known as ZDDP,This is the anti wear package and has been steadily reduced over the years,The latest Motor Oil SAE standards have dropped the percentages considerably further simply because the Governments have mandated longer Catalytic Converter Lifr over Engine Life and it does reduce Cat Converter life. Motorcycle oils are exempt from this latest standard so retain higher levels of ZDDP,Mobil 1 Racing 4T 15W50 has one of the highest levels of ZDDP and is used in Australia by HRT (Holden Racing Team) in their V8 Race Engines it is also one of only two oils recommended by Triumph Motorcycles of Hinkley UK. Research into various high performance enthusiasts will find that this particular topic is a hot thread,Look into the MSDS sheets for product data and look up the levels of ZDDP and base your Oils on that criteria for best engine life.

Sorry but the "Angles within One degree stuff" is absolute miss information have a good look under many a rear axle vehicle the angles are never anywhere near equal at either end,Alignment of the cross yokes for the Uni's must be exactly the same and that is often a problem with retubed Tailshafts.

98% Guarantee the problem to be the Fuel sender specifically where the sliding pickup operates across the resistance sector,Try tweaking the moving pickup to get better contact common issue after many years.

What was probably wrong with the Hitachi is a bit of crud got disturbed when taking the carb off to do the gaskets and insulator. When this happens you can rev the engine with no load on it and it will not have enough suck through the jet to pick up the bit of dirt or whatever is in the carb. But under load it then draws enough extra fuel to be able to suck the bit of dirt etc into the jet,This then blocks the jet instant bog happens and that causes the bit of dirt etc to fall out of the jet because that cuts the vacuum pull that allows the Jet to suck the dirt in,Then sometimes it sucks it straight back into the jet and other times will not do it for days. It is that constant suck block cut power suck more fuel block again cut power cycle that seems more like riding a mechanical bull than driving a car. Be aware many Weber carbs often have air corrector jets on the side of the carb exposed to atmosphere especially with those redline style Air Filters,These can block with Dirt and cause issues with running rich and stalling as cutting the air correction out of the mixture circuit can occur if these jets block with dirt,Most factory filter housings drop down to partially cover these jets from errant dirt. Webers need to be correctly jetted and depending on altitude jetting will vary as it will depending on the type of fuel available in your area,GD and others will have an idea of what works best in general but individual engines often respond to different jetting those carbs are probably a replacement for something like a Mercury Capri or Pinto so asl about jet sizes to suit and specify what fuel you use also. Cheers from Down under Steve

The angles are not the issue unless it is too straight,Uni joints actually like to run at an angle in fact if they are perfectly in line you will have issues they must not be in line or Harmonic vibrations will occur. Most driveshafts need about 1 inch of clearance to allow the movement into the extension housing on a conventional live axle as the suspension compresses and the drive shaft slides into the box,Obviously with a Subaru with the rear Differential solidly mounted and Independant rear arms that does not occur to the same degree so leave at least 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch minimum to allow easy R&R. However Uni joints must be in line on the driveshaft perfectly or it will vibrate,they cannot be out of line so check alignment between both Uni joints with a string line or better if available a laser pointer. Remember Uni's must align at each end of the Propellor or Driveshaft but when bolted up must not line up between the Gearbox and differential unit,Usually just vertical differences in alignment is enough but being out side to side should pose no issues either.

Simple really that Brat will take a lot of effort and money to put right and that being the case it pays to bear in mind a clean standard model is always worth more than any modified vehicle unless it is a Race Car with championship history like one of the BRE 510's.

I sometimes wonder about all the negative aspects of EA82 motors as so many obviously did many miles OK when newer,Yes they are not bulletproof but I think many of the issues were probably caused by being used as cheap hacks without correct maintenance in the past. There are known issues and many of those issues are the result of other problems like poor cooling system maintenance,If you approach them with an open mind I am sure they can be OK but not necessarily cheap to bring up to spec with Gen 3 heads etc. That is the problem in many cases are they worth spending the money if they are to you then take no shortcuts and spend wisely the information is available.

As Loyale 2.7 says it's the resister pack,Once you pull it out you can go to Tandy etc and buy some wire and repair it yourself it;s not that hard or rat up a resistor pack from any number of vehicles and adapt it if needed if you can't find a good original.

You can change to the resister type coil setup on any vehicle with the advantage being the coil is designed to run via resistor at lower voltage Normally,but when bypassed in starting switch position gives increased coil output with the non resisted 12 volt feed for a stronger spark and easier starting. That is why the factories did it and is an easy upgrade that is worth the effort. The wiring mods are not that hard .

Power window gear is pretty scarce her in Oz so I made my own kit up used Mitsubishi Lancer switchgear and Legacy(Liberty) power window assemblies matched with original window mechanicals some fab involved and had to manufacture a new sheet metal section to mount the motors in the doors Tig welded in,Works a treat. Made the harness as a copy of an earky 70's Chev schematic as back then they had no computer controlled systems and kept it simple but workable just using switches and relays. Used the later motors because of availability and the fact they had done far less work unless you luck out and find a low mileage Subaru donor so anything is possible.