coxy

Fitted fresh Loyal wagon seats mint condition much better than 400,000Km originals,A New Extinguisher on the floor in front of Passenger seats and picked up some mint doors from a wrecker for a bargain $50 with zero rust and no wear in hinges,Boy do I love pick and pull.

Guys and gals I have a Brumby{Brat} as well as a Suzuki Swift GTI also sold in Turbo Form as some sort of Chevy I believe and the Key blanks interchange so that gives you a few more options for getting a blank key that works in Subie locks if you don't have a dealer local for Subaru's.

Please look after yourself and your Buddy's dog and give strength to his family. You man while so young are an inspiration for many in stepping up and helping your buddy's family,It is obvious that you were kindred spirits because you were both cut from the same cloth. Obviously many in your Neighbourhood are good people from the donations raised at the carwash especially so when times are as tough as they are at the moment. Hang in there Mate you have good people around you when times seem too tough you are never alone,You are there for your buddy's family and the Board is there for you too.

Don't forget Japanese weirdness over the years where they run permanant power to Lights and switch the earth to complete the circuits on some vehicles.The early datsun 510 being a prime example as well as the Toyota Levin AE86,havent needed to upgrade my Lighting circuit yet so I am not sure on the 81's. That is a future project, But I suspect the Switch or relay as these involve moving parts and hence are more prone to fail long term like the dash dimmer section plays up in the Switch.

Seems like a good thread to point out to everyone that over time the old style pull in rubber screen seals will shrink so always organise a new one before pulling a screen as they will always leak after being disturbed and a new rubber that seals stops the rust from occuring in the first place.

Second the dimmer switch especially they will play up when spun to full bright position pull the illumination back 10% and bet it works perfectly.

Great thread congratulations especially on securing title,determination will always get a result eventually. Regarding the Cork gaskets on the sump everyone hates,An old trick of mine I use with much sucess on Jaguars is to torque the bolys evenly to spec and use blue Loctite nut lock on them,That way they never back off and no oil leaks in the future. Regarding the front crank oil seal jess and others and for that matter oil seals in general when you are replacing a seal and there is some normal wear marking on the pulley or where ever the seal runs I tighten the spring behind the oil seal lip section. These springs have a tapered end that screws into the plain end of the spring to make it a circular spring,When you carefully examins a seal spring you will see the join they untwist to disassemble you can then increase the spring tension to compensate for wear on the component they run on by cutting 2~3mm from the flat end then just screw back together . You now have a seal suitable for compensating for wear on things such as front pulleys and rear crank seals etc. Enjoy your Brat over hear they are a "Brumby" which in Australia is what we call wild horses which you call mustangs in the States,Guess Ford would not allow Subaru to call the Brat a Mustang over there.

Ah the joys of living in NZ where you got so many earlier JDM models as cheap imports,Nice looking score ya got there.

Check the wire hasn't fallen of the solenoid on the starter motor underneath the spare tyre,everything is easy to get to on a Subie compared to most cars.

The later the car the more expensive to fix,Autos on later models cost between $4500- $8000 to fix,Manuals more like $3500. Your old subie can be fixed chaeply from a wreckers plus aftermarket parts in a lot of cases. If the body is passable some work will give you maybe another 4-5 years to save for a replacement Walking sucks.

I may have just covered this topic for a brat in the older gen section,First make sure you have spark at the coil then see my other post regarding phasing the distributor correctly in the other section. Basically the rotor button must line up all through a manual check of the advance curve with the engine at top dead centre number one cylinder the rotor button must align with the number one lead at the cap,But most importantly when you manually check the advance curve by twisting the rotor button against the spring tension the rotor button must sweep across the pickup point in the cap and not go past it. If they do not align no spark will cross from the coil feed via the rotor button and then to the individual cylinders,Hence always check spark at coil first.\,then check the distribution phase of the system. If it fails the spark at coil point then it is either wiring,Coil or reluctor (Pickup unit) These are the same as a number of vehicles Isuzi impulse in the states (gemini in Asia Pacific region)some Nissan models with A series and E series engines etc. Not just Subaru as Hitachi and Mitsubishi Distributors interchange over many different vehicles even hondas.

Try Nissan-Datsun and Mazda for alternate rotor buttons and caps as well as some honda's they all use either mitsubishi or Hitachi distributors on different models,My EA81 Wagon had electronics and used Datto 1600 or 1200 caps and rotor buttons. My current brat runs a custom Nissan factory Mitsubishi CDI ignition because I had a couple of Spares left over from My Stanza Rally car(Violet HA10) that had all the Group 2 factory Gear,Simple mod to fit a subaru.

I think you will find the issue is that the rotor button is not lining up with the 4 poles in the distributor cap correctly. If you take a distributor out that is gear driven you have to make sure to fit it back in at top dead centre number one cylinder and when you line up the timing marks statically you should mark where the number one plug lead lines up on the distributor body with a felt tip pen or paint pen. Then most importantly manually move the rotor button to demonstrate the arc it travels when mechanical and vacuum advance occurs. It is vital that the metalic section of the rotor button as it sweeps around where the pickup is for the various cylinders has been marked remains close enough to allow spark to jump across when you manually advance the distributor. This aspect is obviously out and that is why it will start only when fully advanced,any retard swing of the distributor moves the rotor button and igniton lead pickups away from each other so no spark can jump the gap. They never line up perfectly but the arc of the rotor button must always keep some part of the rotor button adjacent to the various lead pickup points for the spark to travel to various cylinders as needed.

Have a look at Dassault Systemes the French Company who made the Mirage Fighter Jet they have both 2D and 3D and supply the 2D software for free it works with Autocad files and actually opens and works with later Autocad files than some more recent but not current Autocad releases. It goes under the name of Draftsight when you search and if you have any Autocad experience is easy to master,also has a Forum for users.

What I use is a Panasonic Toughbook,main reason is they have a serial port that is needed for many automotive applications,they also live in a workshop enviroment. The model I use in the shop is a CF52 semi rugged business model and at Rallies a CF 19 full rugged.Thge CF52 is widescreen and decent speed so is a good choice for what you are looking to use it for as the full rugged models are small screens and not what you want to use all the time. Dell also have a similar model to the CF52 that at least in Australia are used by Snap On Dealers maybe the same in the USA.

Sorry you are wrong they did exist and no doubt some still do somewhere in Japan,they were listed on the factory rally options brochure that I have a copy of somewhere. I also saw them in real life having been involved in the Original Southern Cross rally in the Port Macquarie region,an event that started originally in the coastal side of the Snowy Mountains during the sixties and continued into the mid eighties. Real rallying day and night stages with some special stages over 200 KM of competitive for just one stage,What you enter these days Spike competition wise is a poor reflection of what rally Sport events once were. The Southern Cross which was the first event outside of Japan for Subaru as well as most japanese teams covered on average around 4,500 KM not the piddling mileages events cover these days.

They could always mod an EA81 manifold with sections of that one with the aid of a tig welder and a die grinder to obtain the correct length,cutting just outside the carb mountings would allow access to clean up the welds after and then play with jets the performance gains would be worth it. Just make sure when welding have it mounted on an old ebgine to keep it square.

The real issue is not the locknut but does it use a fixed spacer and shims or a collapsable spacer for the pinion shaft bearings if the latter it can be an issue when you undo and retighten the nut. Red loctite or the equivalent permatex product can allow reuse of such nuts if needed.

They are relatively cheap insurance to replace them and I believe you should do so if only for reliability and peace of mind,if it has sat for some time also look at the cooling system,hoses etc and the waterpump seals may have dried up as well.

Yes GD it can be a learning curve but if you use an aftermarket ECU and adapt a SPFI EA82 Inlet manifold assembly as well as an EA 82 Exhaust Manifold and Turbo then add in the toughness of an EA 81 and you can have an EA 81 Turbo with Common available components in the Mix. Certainly something someone wants to try out,I know I would except I have a genuine complete Twin Carb EA81 with all parts present from flywheel to Airfilter so my efforts are going into that.

Do you mean the tapped thread at the front of the head,then it is for power steer bracket and looking at the engine from in front of the car is on your left. The other option if it is underneath like an EA 82 it may be for an EGR pipe and should have a matching fitting on the exhaust,not all countries use the same style components and in most countries we now have imported engines to add to the confusion.

There is merit in the idea for some applications,though I don't believe it would apply to a Subaru. I have used it for a few years on Honda CRF 250 MX bikes where the extra lubrication extends piston and ring life and it helps greatly with keeping the Titanium valves alive longer. Honda recomend replacing the Piston every 15 hours running time,with the addition of a small amount of premix 2T oil pistons are still measuring up to spec at 50 hours using Motul 800 synthetic two stroke oil. Valve wear is greatly reduced as these run a ti nitride coating and as soon as it goes south valve clearances change hourly,this definately extends valve life.

CP pistons.Ross Aries etc will all make custom pistons,and if they are like some of the suppliers in Australia can often supply custom made cast pistons also. The light aircraft engine conversion specialists also supply EA 81 parts.

As I just posted the solution for syncros in another thread the teeth if damaged can be dressed up and you have the brass cones bead blasted and the matching sections of the gears after covering up those area's you don't want bead blasted,make sure they just use normal glass beads for the best results. This treatment gives a nice satin finish to the parts and they work a treat once again for many years. We have been doing this for years sucessfully in a range of Rally Car gearboxes here in Sydney Australia and it saves you a fortune,we have done it to Datsun Z cars,510's Silvia's Toyota's including the triple cone GT$ AWD boxes as well as many Subaru and others it just plain works Cheers.

Don't just rough up the syncro's bead blast the brass cones and tape up the gears leaving only the syncro section exposed and bead blast that. This technique works perfectly to give as new syncro's unless the fine teeth are damaged,and in many cases they can be dressed up with a good file and a dremel if need be ,this method works in a number of rally cars and has proven effective and long lasting. NSK supply all original Subaru bearings and even the CV's so a good bearing supply will be able to help with gearbox bearings. As everyone else says use genuine seals as they often are specials with extra sealing lips.If you have wear on a shaft for instance you can carefully remove the spring from the seal it can then be undone as they have two ends twisted together to form a circular spring with one end tapered in a cone form that screws into the other end . This squared off end can be shortened by 2~3mm to increase spring tension to allow for wear marks say on a propshaft for example.