coxy

Best tool for that job would probably be a V8 hydraulic lifter puller,the slide hammer style ones where you twist the handle and they expand one end to lock in,quite common and fairly cheap for a special tool as pushrod V8 dino's are so common.

You guys can thank the Democrats for their cash for clunkers destruction program that results in so many viable spares cars being trashed into a compactor rather than used for spares or restored. Politicians and their ideas of being beholden to New vehicle manufacturers and unions to keep pumping out new rubbish rather than being smart and making quality that lasts like our old Subaru's. Older cars are much more Environmentally friendly when you think about lifespan and material and energy used in manufacture of the at least three later vehicles required to outlast one old Subaru.

Great buildup,but i have major reservations about 2 things the steering wheel adapter and especially the mods to the drive shaft. There is no way in Australia anyone would balance that drive shaft because that would be putting their name to a seriously dangerous modification. The Drive shaft or tail shaft is an item always made out of high quality seamless tubing and certainly only ever is welded at the ends,never will it have a section added as you have done. You can balance something all you like but failure of a drive shaft is much more serious and potentially Fatal than failure of something like a cut and shut CV shaft,though even those can flail around and potentially take out brake lines or steering,Drive shaft failure is something else all together.hence why Drag racing has rules about containing failure of the component with straps etc. The gearbox mount will also fail as what you have manufactured has way too much leverage in the design and will eventually rip the sheet metal apart around where the X member mounts to the shell,this is why factories don't make them that way. In Australia we have to have Modified vehicles Engineer certified for safety reasons as mods without sound Engineering principles behind them are dangerous both to the driver and other innocent road users as failure can be catastrophic. As an Example I can recall a drive shaft front Universal joint failure of a stock Panel van resulting in the vehicle flipping end for end at 60 mph resulting in 5 people dying on a freeway out here and that was just due to some idiot ignoring the obvious vibration from a failing front universal joint,let alone a very dangerous modification to a drive shaft. Lucky no other car was taken out at the same time,remember everyone also has an obligation to others not just themselves for any road use vehicle compared to an off road special.

That's what happens when some fool who should only ever walk anywhere and never have any pets ignores noise and accelerates harder to overcome the loss of power from a big end failure..

Beg to differ there a number of people in Australia have used the factory dual carb manifold on the standard EA81 engines and they report it will run up a long freeway Hill at 90 MPH with no trouble,no standard EA81 will do that. I am also fortunate to have a complete factory Dual carb engine including air cleaner and ancilliaries,yes the port layout is far superior with the inlet valves in the centre and exhausts outside with a divider all the way in the exhaust ports so they are not siamesed. While the inlets are siamesed it is not really a major issue for performance with the firing order they use,they made either 108HP or 120HP in stock trim depending on model and well over 140Hp in Rally guise with weber IDA style carbs adapted. Pretty damm good for a pushrod 1800,the Turbo EA81 didn't make as much power,from memory somewhere around just under 96HP for them. If you can source a factory dual carb setup they are worth fitting on a normal EA engine,but should need some jetting changes as the cam and breathing is not as good especially for the top end where the dual carb factory engine makes power beyond 8500RPM. The gyroplane guys have been running dual carb setups sucessfully for decades on normal EA engines so it does work even if they are using variations of motorcycle CV type carbs for their applications they must be reliable for aircraft use even in experimental types and they crave power and run at a constant RPM between 4500~5000 so it is a harder life in Aircraft than in a Car.

Many but most have been left at the shops where I made them for specific applications such as a special cutting tool holder to take "O" ring cutting tool blades for "O" ringing blocks such as the Moroso tool. This tool holder took those commonly available blades that have a special taper so they can cut a grove around the cylinder bore as to insert 41 thou stainless safety wire for big boost drag engines. My adapter allowed fitting to a micrometer boring head so that any size cylinders could be "O" ringed on the CNC mill,because of the circular cut the blade has to be tapered to clear the walls of the groove and is quite a specialised cutting blade. Since then they now make the tools in smaller sizes,hand operated for ease of use for those without a machine shop. Mine however was made over 20 years ago when there was nothing available. Have also built many jigs such a rotiseries for preparation of Rally and race car shells,jigs for modifying struts and retubing struts etc to allow fitting of things such as Bilstein inserts to models not catered for by Bilstein. Have also made special radius cutters for modifying valve radius in the chambers to unshroud valves in some cylinder heads etc.

Regarding security heavy duty steel posts and a bar across inside foil ram raiders,Tilt a door or roller doors and even bifold doors with a chemset bolt in the floor that fits through the said door will stop anyone prying a door open or up from outside when it secures said door to the floor. Always use a shotbolt inside a door with a padlock fitted and an acess hole through a steel plate so that you can only get a bare hand in with a key to unlock the padlock,boltcutters are no use when you are unable to acess a padlock securing a door from the inside and the only way to open it is with a key through a small acess hole. Hell even an expert lock picker will have trouble with that setup and you can with those ideas make something very secure in a couple of hours,very likely when you get a quote for insurance with photos of that setup and an alarm you will get a substancial discount on insurance premiums as well. Remember thieves are too lazy to work for something,that is why they steal and if you make it hard work for them they will go hit someone else instead.

Thought I would put up a notice of what comes up on occasion,considering the parity of our currencies at present it is easy to work out costs. Currently listed are front and rear screen rubbers for FF1,GFT and most models of Subaru from 1968 with the Exception of the 360 which we never had in Australia officially. The GFT was not local officially but the GSR was,both coupes so same screen rubbers. Their have been listed various items such as new 1400 clutch kits,piston kits for 1400 models gasket sets and a real gem a NOS GFT grill centre badge,very pretty in orange and chrome,just remember to search worldwide on Ebay. I am sure some board member will be willing to help if a vendor will not deal with international orders in various countries. When restoring older models leave no avenue unexplored,I will endeavour to post any other items of interest that may surface in Australia. One of the members of Ausubaru "Frog" is a Subaru parts man and currently has listed part numbers on the site that are in stock at his country NSW dealership for many of the older models ,what you are looking for may be there so check it out fellow Subie Lovers.

Sounds to me more like a lazy vacuum secondary carby issue,providing your model is a carburettor version not SPFI. After all our model lineup in Australia does not line up exactly with the US but some are virtually identical with just differing model codes. It is amazing just how often anything to do with a carburettor opening to give more power and vacuum operation to achieve it falls over when not very old. We see it all the time at work ,with Mikuni and Keihin Bike carbies when the slides are lazy to open or will not fully open. Hitachi car carbs have the same issues with the secondary butterfly being reluctant to play ball at times,do a search for the weberising mod to the linkages or just overhaul and fit a junkyard weber for major improvement in power and response.

I seem to remember Subaru use a safety feature where the fuel pump will not continue to be powered if it does not recieve a power feed output from the alternator indicating the engine is running,therefore an alternator or charging circuit fault aspecially of an intermittant nature will power down the fuel pump. When you first turn on the ignition the pump will run to prime the system,but the engine must be running for the fuel pump to continue to operate this is a safety feature designed to help avoid fires in major accidents with possible ruptured fuel lines and an electric pump continuing to operate. I suggest you look into this area for your problem or you may well get stuck again somewhere not so convenient regarding assistance if required. Cheers from Sydney somewhere Oprah will soon spotlight for your entertainment come January so you will know where some of us reside. Seasons Greetings to all.

Simply awesome we started with 1400's in Australia so any 360's are private imports so jealous you are lucky. I agree it is so cool as it is with those moon style hubcaps and the lids are just right and the red paint just makes it look like the ultimate Snap On tool box on wheels,was it originally white,for certain it is a keeper restore it suitable for the era with mods that can be easily reversed if you wish to personalize it.

Most likely the valve or control cable for the Heater,heater valves can stick and cables can pop the clip off but rarely break as they are solid wire inner type. Heater valves can be swapped even between different makes if need be for the external type located in the engine bay.

What we used to do is similar to what the Evo runs for our Rally Escorts but the tube setup was a rear Leaf spring rubber from a Ford transit van in a steel tube and then 2 simple plates and a through bolt setup on the cross member side. The steel tube is mounted on the engine with the Spring shackle rubber insert and when lowered into the corresponding mount on the cross member and bolt inserted only metal failure or weld failure can result in movement. Unlike solid mounts it still allows some vibration damping but keeps things more secure and fail safe rubber wise. This type of mount is known in Escort land as a "World Cup" style mount and also works great for Transmission mounts.

Wurth the German fastener company sell a range of wires with the Trace Colours as Auto Electrics is one of their speciality areas,I am sure there are others if you search .

Rocker panels just fix the rust then for off road use have someone fold up sill(rocker) panel guards from stainless steel we used to do that for our Rally cars here in Oz,works a treat for damage control off road. As for Fiber glass Fenders wouldn't you make both styles stock and flared and cut for bigger wheel clearance if you were going to the trouble in the US.

Added power windows to the Brumby,had to relocate the regulator mounting holes and use the sliding rail sections from the original windows because what I adapted actually once lived in a mid nineties Liberty wagon(Legacy in the US) Power window gear is scarce here in Australia and I figured why use something hard to get and old to boot and worn out,hence Later Subaru power window bits. When located correctly the helper spring lines up with an appropriate recess but spacers and different hole locations were needed. I have a collection of spacers and both Tig and Mig welders so it was easy for me each window fitment took about 40 minutes. Wiring was custom using only a 40 amp relay and some Mitsubishi Lancer rear door switches,though any with a five wire setup that reverses polarity will work. No control unit needed after all they never used them in early Mustangs etc just figure out the wiring,best thing ever being able to wind down the passenger window easily from the centrally located switches. Remember the conversion is not bolt in but not that hard for some of you guys when you can not source bolt in parts for earlier vehicles,the only tricky part was the wiring due to the Subaru motors only being 2 wire and hence needing polarity switching switches to reverse direction up and down.There are I'm sure other switches available from a junkyard that will work as well but they must have at least 5 wires per switch to be the correct type. Now all I have to do is re trim the door panels because of the hole where the winder once was or check out some Camaro type caps to plug the holes as GM did.

Best of luck idiot drivers and some Police who do not give a tinkers cuss and something we all deal with worldwide. Best thing is your uncle is OK cars can be fixed or at worst replaced.

Not my one but fits the bill nicely of this thread

Obviously it is most likely related to the vibration that was encountered during the trip so check multi plug connectors,not just in the engine bay but also inside the cab,make sure you start at the battery first and make sure you have good power and earth circuits. Electrical problems are always a process of elimination and the system all revolves around the battery so it is where you look first then to other systems later,when one part of the system isn't functioning look always at the connections first then the components after.

Sure the IAC was a good one,the other thing that comes to mind was the old one was stuck closed and the original erratic idle was due to air leaks around a worn throttle shaft,if that was the case then adding an IAC that works could cause an extra high idle. Worn throttle shaft bushings will cause either a carburetted or fuel injected engine to have inconsistent idle characteristics. This is due to the throttle plate never seating correctly the same twice and the lack of an effective seal around that plate will lead to high or inconsistant idle issues,quite often if this is the case when it idles high or low blipping the throttle a couple of times will alter how it idles as the plate will sit differently when this is done. More obvious things such as throttle cables and accelerator pedals tend to be more obvious so I assume you have eliminated these.

Spent 10 years as a BMW mechanic advice is to find the latest model you can ,the last of the K100 RS models had the 4 piston Brembo brakes and the 4 valve head like the K1100 models. Much better bike to ride than the 2 valve models. Points to watch for Clutch especially if it's a city bike,keep clearance at the clutch lever or it's like slipping the clutch by riding the clutch pedal on a Subie. Gearbox uses tapered bearings if they lose preload it damages the Gears and Burns and damages the shift forks they are not cheap to replace. Later 4 valve models have the better paralever rear suspension like the K 1100 models. Properly maintained they will last a very long time and are great to ride,the K1100 models do use a rubber mounted engine that is noticeably smoother than the K100 models.

Why not just Overhaul those dual Hitachi's thats what I plan with My Dual carb EA81. These are a full mechanical setup no vacuum operated secondary and already factory jetted so why would you change them. Yes with a US spec Polution Vac secondary Hitachi or Worse then a Weber conversion makes sense,however with these carbs being a specific performance model made to suit the Engine it doesn't strike me as smart to throw them away. When you fit this setup on a normal EA81 then the cam and porting differences will require some jetting changes. People out here in Australia have had both the Dual carb setup on a standard EA81 and unfortunately for them A dual Carb engine without the Manifold and carbs. Consensus is that the performance improvement from either option is similar so when you have both together it is a major upgrade,after all whether it is the 108HP version or the Homologation special 120 HP version both well and truly exceed the Turbo EA81 let alone a stocker or the USDM model.

My speedo just hit 305,000KM which means it has now done 460,000KM,New 5 speed and factory reverse valve twin carb engine being preped for replacement . Might just wait till it hits an even 500,000 KM before I do the swap still runs great. 5 speed it being AWD converted also as the engine should make around 130 Hp and FWD on the road wont cut it.8,500 Redline go the 81 who needs an EJ And yes the body shell is still tight very little wheelin on this rig.

Plus 2 for what cougar says,you really know it when something overheats sounds much more like an earth problem with the gauge it is easy enough to have some radiator place or decent mechanic check if the gauge is accurate.

Hi all if you care to search ebay australia under subaru leone you will find listed winshield rubbers for FF1,leone coupes etc most models selling for $89.00 au 1968 models onwards. Cheers steve