coxy

Subaru transmissions will slip in and out of 4WD at up to 70mph(110 kmh) all without using the clutch as they were designed to do so. Possibly in the US they were more conservative but both my 82 wagon and my 89 brumby show that spec in the owners manual.They do warn about transmission windup on paved roads.I constantly have used it dropping into 4WD High when encountering conditions like water running over the road during heavy rain,but dropping straight back into 2WD after the corner,just make sure not to hit 4WD Low instead when fitted. The difference regarding safety and the extra sure footedness in these conditions is definitley worth it,it may not be AWD but it is the next best thing. If you haven't tried it you are missing out on a major plus feature of our cars,also very handy for takeoffs up wet greasy roads uphill away from the lights where all vehicles leave their oily droppings and traction is at a premium.

As a mechanic who has worked on most every bike since the late sixties from your list I highly recommend the Suzuki SV 650,the GS500 is OK but somewhat underpowered. Check out some of the SV 650 forums everyone who discovers one of these gems absolutely loves them try and get a ride on one and you will not regret it. Here in OZ it is amazing how many people in the trade own one and do not dismiss it's DL 650 BMW GS style brother either without riding one. These are one of the few models I will recommend to mates with no worries of them coming back at me unhappy. Good luck searching and try to ride a few first as even the best models can suffer from an unsympathetic owner abusing them.

You need to clean the carb as you have dislodged some sediment from the bottom of the float bowl and it has made it's way into the fuel circuits,compressed air will most likely be needed. If you don't have acess to a compressed air source you may be able to use one of those cans of compressed air from an electronics supply shop to do the job . Webers are also prone to blocking some exposed air bleeds on the carby top section if you are running one of those. Cheers Steve

Depending on just which year you call a Justy generation 2 in the UK will vary just which rebadged model it is. Gen 1 and Gen 2 were rebadged Suzuki models (Cultus in japan,Swift in Aus and I believe the UK and both Chevy sprint or Justy in the North American market. Gen 3 was based on the Suzuki Ignis~Baleno model range Gen 4 is based on variants from Daihatsu/Toyota,Daihatsu is owned by Toyota and these days only produces Trucks. With both Gen 1 and 2 look at Suzuki for parts,try looking at either Redline GTI (Aus)or Teamswift (UK)forums for more detailed info regarding these Suzuki based models,in the US you also have the option of the Chevy Sprint Turbo engines as well as the Suzuki G13B 100 HP NA 1300cc 16 valve Twincam. Gen 3 was based on the Baleno/Ignus and was available up to 1800cc. Bodykits are not to hard to find if you look at Suzuki,the problem lies in asking for it as a Subaru when it is most likely a rebadged Suzuki variant you have and suppliers just don't know. Hope this helps to guide somewhat,I know this because I also own a Suzuki GTI SA413 MK 1 as well as Subaru's

Sort out that timing soon as unless you like to repair engine internals pinging is after all damageing and I have seen rings broken from just that issue being ignored by a customer once..

Know what you mean,had it ever since pulling the engine from my neighbours 74 4wd wagon to do a clutch apon lifting that sucker out by myself with no lifting gear and working out how easy they were to work on. He was much older with a bad back not a slacker which was why he couldn't help. Subaru make awesome cars,we are all lucky most do not know this or our toys would become too expensive.

Not linked but worth a look if you want to see some real serious racing,just do a google search for Dean Evans 2005 Bathurst Lotus Trophy race. !6th to 1st in major traffic in half a lap of what is one on the scariest tracks I've ever been on. Bathurst or Mount Panorama is more well known for the Touring car race later in the year,this particular race takes place over Easter every year. I have only done the circuit on bikes and once as a special stage in a state rally round over here and believe me it is much steeper than most video coverage implies and quite narrow. Speeds they are doing over the top of the circuit are in the order of 200 KM/H or roughly 125 MPH and around 85 to 100 MPH through the uphill corners,down the straight at the end they approach 170 MPH with these cars almost 290 KMH . Believe me on a big GSXr Suzuki down the straight you see over 300 KMH and that 2 mile plus straight seems real short. This guy is seriously commited to winning that race and this is some of the tightest racing you will ever see finding gaps that just don't seem to exist. Watch and enjoy

Castor makes a huge difference to wheel camber on lock and hence cornering ability not just self centreing,Toe in or Toe out is mainly to allow correct geometry under real world load useage,a front wheel drive will tend to pull the wheel and suspension forwards pivoting around the lower control arm pivot point hence requires either zero or slight toe out so it doesn't toe in too much which causes unstable behaviour under power or brakes The geometry of vehicles is rather important when for instance you look at the camber of the outside wheel of say a brat or hatch on full lock , you see extreme positive camber which causes much understeer. This is directly because of a lack of enough positive caster does not give an ideal camber setting of some negative camber on full lock without the tradeoff of to much initial negative camber in the straight ahead mode which makes for directional instability in the srtaight ahead position and excessive wear of the tyre's inner tread. Positive camber as many with lifted Subes creates it's own problems of tyre wear and Excessive understeer this is why you have to remember suspension works in an Arc around it's pivot points when evaluating cause and effect with suspension changes

One tip for all to consider with any problems like this,all on board computers are Dumb they can send out a trouble code only by reading voltages and resistances if it is out of spec they will throw up a trouble code. Where everyone comes unstuck including many technicians is they assume the computer is accurate,yes it is to an extent but how many people pull a component or unhook the wires to test some component that the trouble codes said is faulty and it tests Ok Remember people it is part of a system so step one is always make sure battery voltage is OK,follow this by making sure both Positive and Negative battery connections are good then finally make sure both Body and Engine earths are good then you can trouble shoot electronics not before doing these basics. Many times it is a poor Earth connection that triggers the fault codes not faulty components,hence why these simple points are always the first step unless you like chasing your tail.

Subaru upper cylinder and throttle body cleaner is in a spray can,spray it into either a carburetor or throttle body then leave for 5~10 minutes. Once this time has elapsed start the car (Outside in good ventilation) and run the motor at around 20~25% throttle whilst spraying in the remaining half of the can,Works a treat. This is a genuine subaru product and I would be surprised if it was only available here in Australia. I have experienced carbon trapped between the valve and valve seat from simply unscrewing a spark plug to do a compression test,luckily a borescope video camera gave the game away before the engine was stripped hence why I suggested those other options. Subaru cleaner retails in Australia for around $7.50 US so it isnt an expensive option for one or two cans. Cheers Steve

Looking at the first pic in post #35 what is the turbo drain doing pointing up at that angle,they must go down as close to vertical as possible or you will flood the turbo with too much oil leading to excessive oil consumption and early turbo failure due to carbon buildup where you don't want it. There is a reason why the drain is much bigger than the feed side on turbo oil systems,once the oil has done it's job you do not want it hanging around. Look at the location of the drain on any factory turbo and you will see what I mean.

Whoa there it is more than likely what has happened is because the car sat for 12 months you will find that some carbon has likely dried out and flaked off,this in turn has probably become lodged in a valve seat causing the loss of sealing. I would try some upper cylinder cleaner such as the Subaru stuff and run it through a few times to try and break down the carbon,this will hopefully result in fixing the problem without dismantling a low mileage engine. Whilst the engine is low mileage it is still pretty old timewise,I would seriously consider replacing Cooling system hoses.thermostat and maybe the usual culprits such as Cam and Crank seals as they do go hard over time when not used constantly Cam belts likewise would be very wise.

Remember as well if you plan to reuse the clutch always replace the throwout bearing regardless,it is easy to inspect a pressure plate and clutch disk for its potential lifespan however its not worth the grief of having to pull the trans again for a throwout race. Also a good time to make sure the rear main seal is good to go as well. It doesnt matter what you do to any Subie as long as you keep it rockin on that is what really matters in the end.

My 89 Brumby(Brat gen 2) had 355 thousand K's but now shows 205 on it;s new 84 4 dr auto sports dash same as brats got stock,since added another 28.000 km. My previous 83 4wd wagon was retired and stripped for parts still going strong at 460 thousand Kilometers,being driven daily six days a week round trip of 160 miles to work every day. How many modern cars would you buy at 300.000 KM about 180,000 Miles that you could reliably drive those distances daily,only replaced wheel bearings and a fuel pump and tyres whilst adding another 100 thousand miles to that wagon,gotta love Subaru toughness and build quality.

Previous MY 4WD Wagon had 468,000 KM when retired still going strong as a daily driver doing a round trip of 150 miles to work six days a week Replacement Brumby (BRAT) had 320,000 KM on Original odo,now reads just 215.000 on new 6 gauge Coupe style Dash (as found factory fitted to an Aussie spec 1984 MY auto sedan) complete with a perfect crashpad,what a find. Both on original EA 81's with only normal service maintenance,Wagon did use a pint of Oil every 2 weeks though,acceptable for almost 2,000 mies of driving at highway speeds.

No the lsd is the carrier and they interchange between any of the five speeds mentioned,so all you need is the lsd carrier assembly. Unfortunately some have glossed over setting up a differential correctly,what is listed in the factory service manuals is only a starting point,this is the difference between being a well trained factory master technician and a mechanic with similar qualifications from many manufacturers a piece of paper does not give you thirty five years of real world experience. In no way am I knocking the original poster who has gone to some trouble to help us all, but there are many things he will learn as he goes,I will now pass on some of that knowledge for everyones benefit when setting up any hypoid type differential one of the things that needs to be taken into account is horsepower and use,this will affect just how you set up the pinion depth for instance. With big horsepower the pinion needs to be set up deeper in mesh with the crown wheel,the reason being that the horsepower will tend to drive the pinion out of mesh so you want it meshing correctly when under maximum load this will particularly apply for a big power EJ Turbo motor. For an EA motor where power isn't as great it is safe to run purely to factory specs,but in all instances you will need a pinion preload tension wrench and also check the preload on the carrier bearings without the ring gear fitted to get an accurate figure so dummy assembling can take place up to a dozen times or more doing the measuring and changing shims to set preload's,once you have worked out the shim stack for the required preload it then needs to be swapped around to move the crown wheel into mesh correctly,once you have the preload you just move shims side to side to move the crown wheel adding to one side whilst taking from the other but always maintaining the number and sizing of shims overall to maintain preload as previously measured. You will also require machinist;s marking blue in a tube to smear over the teeth to look at the mesh pattern,the pattern to look for will vary depending on the horsepower,weight of the vehicle and the intended use it is not as easy as some make it out to be if you want reliability for the long term. As for my expertise in making these statements something you can check out regarding putting money where my mouth is . January 2009 fourstrokeassociation Fourstroke Wars Imperial dunes Glamis Ca. TRF-Explosive Racing results speak for themselves Yamaha raptor 804cc Turbo cheers from the engine builder.

Dayco part numbers are DY5040440 with AC,and DY5040378 without AC. you need the DY5040378 belt, the length is the 378 part of the number 378mm

5.1 is actually lowering the gearing higher would be say 3.7,Nismo did supply from3.5 up to 5.7 in some diff's and Subaru use Nissan diffs so there is your answer,the range is greater for the R180 rather than for the R160 but there are still a few options.

First thing to sort out is suspension geometry,then the front struts. If you can find a friendly supplier that lets you look through catalogues you should be able to come up with something,it is something I need to do for my own Brumby when I have some spare time. For example about what I mean with interchanges in the past I have used Koni Sport Opel commodore strut inserts in a RA 40 Toyota Celica and Volkswagon Passat station wagon rear shocks when I did a Nissan Z18 turbo conversion into a Datsun B110 Utility (Pickup to you guy"s). At least some suppliers actually give dimensions of the replacement components and some like Bilstein and Koni also have damping specs available,apply some logic and you will be amazed at what will work. The RA40 celica was very close in spec to the Opel weightwise and the dimensions were virtually identical so the Opel inserts meant externally adjustable sport Koni's for a car they had no listing for,and they worked brilliantly,So Just because it isn't listed doesn't mean you're sunk.And thats without using say XT6 front end which bolts in and being for a heavier six cylinder will be close to what you need,the rear end can also be easily converted to Loyal style coil overs as well with the wagon being in the ballpark spring rate wise.

Luckily for you because Subaru use deep angular contact ball races rather than Timken tapered roller type races,the only issue until the Race actually falls apart is noise. Tapered roller races allow the shafts to get far more out of alignment which damages the case hardening on the gears,not so much an issue with angular contact ball races,as a tip when you have the box apart line up someone with a glass bead blaster and lightly glass bead the syncro cones and the mating surface on the gears,taping up the actual gear section to protect it. Glass beading the mating parts of the syncromesh assembly will bring the syncromesh action back to as new without the expense of replacement. Out here in Australia we have proven this to be effective in the hardest of testing in Rally cars and it lasts as long as new syncro's. The only time it is not advisable is when the small syncro engagement teeth are damaged severly,minor marking can be dressed up with an oilstone. Cheers from Aussie and have a go it's very rewarding to say you actually fixed it yourself,and I have worked as a mechanic since the early seventies,so this is proven to work not just an unproven theory off the net,if it didn't work it would cost me money doing a job twice be assured.

NICE!! should get some Brumby stickers made for it that would through some people into a spin.

May have a crack in one of the metal line sections,pressurise and listen for leaks,don't need a lot of pressure. Could be worse once had a customer who had been to 5 shops,only played up on one particular hill no one could find it,turned out to be a leaf and when enough suction,occured it sucked the leaf over the intake for the pump real pain to find that one.

Yes Australia where FEDEX and DHL are everywhere and actually go stateside,on a serious note a container full of dual range boxes would find a home easily over there. We may have dual range boxes but did miss out on some things such as single point injected EA 82's,and constant lockable EA 82 dual range boxes,but we do source the stuff. A 20 ft Container full of gearboxes and some of our wheels you guys like would make for a cost effective group buy freight wise for sea freight, just use someone reputable who wont send it as deck cargo on a Submarine. No matter where you live it's always on the other side of the planet or you're broke when it's available locally

Personally I prefer Phizinza's method as it not hard to take an EJ dual range and an EA82 and mix and match to build a box Subaru would have done themselves,As well think about the mileage of most EA82 boxes,you are now putting much more power through them and they probably need a freshen up anyway. New bearings and seals are not expensive and unless it is totally stuffed a good trick with Syncromesh cones is to glass bead blast them and the mating gear cone section as well ,tape over the part you do not want glass beaded then they work like new again so it doesn't end up being too expensive,but gives piece of mind twenty miles from nowhere down some lonely trail,and if you are lucky enough to find an Awd RX box you have the best of all worlds constant Awd a good low range with carby EA82 wagon bits and a centre diff lock and factory engine to gearbox fit with the EJ case swap. When modifying cars for customers over the years one thing I always strove to achieve was to finish up with something the factory would have done,this way it is easy to live with,otherwise if it rattles squeaks is a pain to work on or live with on a daily basis it soon stops being fun,then you sell it usually at a loss ,and if as in my case someone paid you to do it you then get a bad rep from your ex customer.Remember whatever you do make it so it is easy to live with if it will be a road vehicle,for off road or competition you have more leeway in the easy to live with stakes.

Don't forget the engine pulleys for the belts to run off as well.