coxy

Do not be surprised that the contact arm behind the Steering wheel hub has worn and is not making proper contact with the ring assembly to transfer electrical signals back down the column. There will be a brass ring on the back of the steering wheel hub and a springy contact that touches it from the column side I suggest the problem may be there. You will have to pull the steering wheel to check and fix if that is the case, unless you have a steering wheel puller make sure you apply pressure evenly and leave the nut partially threaded on otherwise you will clout yourself with a steering wheel when it comes off the tapered spline, The will usually come off with arms behind the steering wheel applying pressure with the nut partially loose.

Best enlighten everybody that has never totally rebuilt or modified early distributors, Those Ball bearings sit between the points plate halves and are part of the vacuum advance setup, If you pull the plate out of the dissy even thougn yours has no points the plate the points would mount on is two piece to allow the vacuum advance to operate and the two halves run on little ball bearings in between somehow they have become dislodged, Some models are held together with a circlip and are easy to oull apart which I do to clean and lube that area so the vacuum advance works smoothly others require some more drastic surgery as the factory stakes the halves together at the central bearing area, Regardless the bearings do need to go back where they belong and need to operate freely or the car will run like crap as the vacuum advance becomes sticky and jams up sometimes. Mechanical advance operates by moving the Points cam assembly, Vacuum advance units move a moveable plate that is part of the top plate that bolts into the distributor body and actually move either the Igniter pickup module or the points in relation to the rotor cam position, Thus both can vary ignition timing independant of each other, These plates on better quality distributors move on small ball bearings that sit into a spring steel spacer to hold them inplace to support the plate so it moves smoothly and accurately so they are pretty important in getting an engine running properly as designed.

I would rather pull the instrument cluster to fit the cable then fit it to the Box, Much easier than crawling under a dash when you are no longer made of rubber as trhe years add up.

Wagonist there is a guy down at Darkes Forest south of Helensburg who would probably be the man to see to fix the rust properly see the link, He will fix it properly, have a look at his site this guy is no typical modern slap em together so called panel beater such a good basis deserves fixing properly and I do believe this would be the man to do the job. http://www.lonestarbodyshop.com.au/default.php As for L series bits there are two choices the Subaru wreckers at from memory Cardiff near Newcastle and Dapto Pick a Part as it seems older model anything is scarce in Sydney these days, there are a few wagons at dapto plus earlier stuff and compared to Sydney prices are pretty fair. Dapto sells any gearbox in the yard for $250.00 which makes the many Foresters and Impressa's and Libertys a bargain for a second hand box and I prefer yards where you pull the parts rather than off the shelf stuff because you can see the cars condition and judge how well it was looked after, For instance an engine that whilst dirty and with some evidence of oil leaks tells you it was a runner before the accident wheras I have been caught twice with so called Reconditioned heads that had cracks. Seems some wreckers will have a head serviced and put it on the shelf but neglect to have them pressure tested to make sure there are no cracks, So when I come across one that is dirty and was obviously still in service till the accident I know the odds are much better that is is useable with no cracks. Oh I suppose I better add something I have done to My Subie lately, Fitted a touring wagon tilt column to the brumby mainly because the ignition switch needed replacing and this one was low miles and the switches are different so required the column, Got a full matched set of locks and paid ten bucks extra to get it with the column and all the surrounds required, Dismantled the Ignition switch and cleaned and serviced it just to make sure that the tumblers were all good as my old one was getting pretty worn after 450,000 km, The new one is 310,000 km younger

Cut and weld and weld with a Tig for minimal distortion nothing else will suffice long term other than total removal of the rust and replacement with clean metal and then treat to make sure it nefver comes back. Remember rust is like an iceberg what you see is but a small part of what can be there in many cases.

Adrian, aka Discopotato here and on ausubaru I believe still has some of that stuff in the garage off Ellie the RX seeing as "Just In case" he had more than one Spider setup. Unfortunately he is back at Cloudbreak for two weeks driving Ore trains for twiggy Forest, When he gets back I will check as these days he spends more time on forums to do with either his Evo 6 or the GTS Skyline though he is considering more Subaru's back in the fold and flicking a very clean rust free Evo 6,Most people don't realise it is very important which Island Jap imports come from as some salt the roads and some don't. His came from a salt free environment and I have seen too many rusty Jap Imports when you know where to look.

I would give Shawn W a call at the shop seeing as he is in the same state and obviously knows his subaru's and has the parts and connections he would be able to supply a good one wheras a JY pick may need bushes or bearings for the hub etc. Support the board by dealing with Shawn keep it in the family.

As you said Value is substantive to many things and that is for the individuals situation but unlike others who see lack of the sun roof as a negative I see the positive that if not fitted they don't rust,It would though make a great Targa Top Brat style conversion though if the factory sun roof was just a conventional version though, Now that would be unique and make it more valuable. In Australia that would start at around 5K value wise though being so clean and rare even if you could actually find one.

Is it the inside of the hub moving or the driveshaft lose and able to be moved as from memory with the driveshaft fitted it would be all but impossible to see the hub moving itself,Maybe measure the section relevant of the outer CV cup unit to make sure there is no difference in diameter there causing the issue. There have been both early and late driveshaft specs in these vehicles over the years so that may be where the problem comes from, Just a thought.

In Australia it is exactly the opposite all Brumby's came with the poverty pack dash and considering the touring wagons mainly had the electronic dash the six instrument analog GL dash is a rare and desireable item, Luckily I have two of them. Provided you get the wiring loom and I made sure I got the full front loom just to make sure I had the wiring for the oil pressure gauge also the only other thing to get is the fuel tank sender unit to make sure the wiring is there for the fuel gauge low fuel warning light, The rear wiring harness is maybe optional as only the one wire needs to be run if not already in your harness to complete the circuit. If however your wiring harness is less than perfect a complete harness would be a useful spare to be repaired and made perfect at your leisure before fitting.

Do not be surprised if the CV joint is beginning to seize from being dry they can do nasty things like that and vibrations similar to what you have experienced often come from a failing inner double offset joint.

Jonno try these not as hard to find or expensive as you think. http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/clutch-and-brake/protex-master-cylinder-assemblies.html http://www.pedders.com.au/catalogue/subaru/brumby/1981-1994-18ltr-f2-au5-0 https://www.powerbrakes.com.au/shop/index.php/page/shop/browse/category_id/4e1d9041aed7d913590c319651dcc449 http://cartersclutchandbrake.com.au/JB1476 They are also pretty much earlier Datsun master cylinders when all said and done just size variations as for instance Datto 1600 and 180B were 3/4 " (19mm) and 240K and Skylines went up to 7/8" (22mm) and Subaru Brumby and MY Leone were from memory 20.4 mm. Even bigger from later Nissans or dare I say Subaru's can be adapted but will only be required when using Impressa brake upgrades needing more fluid pushed by the master cylinder.

Damn just reassembled my Tilt Column after stripping the Ignition switch to repair it, Lucky for you it is not fitted to the Brumby yet, Ours did not come with tilt columns this is an upgrade out of an 84 MY Touring wagon along with the Power Steering, I believe the Turbo brat will be the same despite being a Left Hooker. I will strip the ignition switch off it tomorrow and check the upper needle bearing size I do know it is three piece the outer shell the inner caged rollers and an end cap style spacer that goes up against the wire circlip on the topmost part of the ignition switch. There should be a one piece shellback needle roller replacement available I already have all the relevant bearing catalogs and expect NTN will have a listing or Koyo possibly even Timken so will post back the size and brand when done cheers, Size wise it looked pretty close to one of the Shellback needle rollers used in Motorcycle swingarms and rear suspension linkages so should be easy to find.

Jesek I beg to differ the twin carb EA81S has much more intake area than any form of EA82 when it comes to being able to take air in to make more power, To even come close an EA 82 needs either a much bigger throttle body or better yet two throttle bodies set apart like the EA 81S. The spacing of the Twin carbs on the EA81 S results in a much shorter effective intake length and shorter intake manifolding always allows for higher power outputs but lower bottom end torque, That is one major reason why the EA 81S makes Revs and the normal EA 81 makes better low end torque but makes little power when revved in stock form. Add in the extra breathing ability of more intake area with the twin carburettors plus the reversed Valve layout giving an even shorter intake path, better cam Timing to suit, Higher Compression and seperated Exhaust ports and then you begin to see why they work so well. An EA 82 with shorter manifolding will benefit much the same and I see no reason why with a normal EA 82 SPFI style engine EA 81S Manifolding and twin carbs cannot be used and it will allow a much shorter intake tract length with the better top end breathing that entails but also more response if not torque lower down in the RPM range. Also do not be so sure Subaru did not try such a setup in testing, They probably did but as you allude to could not get it emmissions friendly enough despite probably great power gains to make use of such a setup in production.

Cut and Tig weld new sections in is the only way to sort that out, Minimal distortion and you don't have to strip as much and unlike a Mig weld no chance of weld spatter on any glass as the best bonus.

Ouch thats a Big jump on Insurance, I take it the Safety zone is like ours where they put restrictions on for when Road Maintenance is underway or is the safety zone more like our School Zones is so yeah they punish you here bad too I got ticketed on a long weekend for "Towbar Obscure Number Plate" thankfully it was not a driving offence just a $385.00 Fine, If I was speeding on the Holiday weekend that it was that would have been double demerit points on my Licence and one can see a licence go away for doing 15 MPH over the speed limit on those weekends with double demerits meaning you lose all your points in one hit. Then you also get nailed much like you did with Insurance jumping up when you have points on your licence that add's another $200.00 a year for the three years it takes to get your points back, So in the end it cost almost a Grand, Ouch!!

Inspect the inner double offset joint (Inner CV) I have had similar issues and surprisingly that was the culprit not the outer as you would think more likely, Seems because they can last longer the outer CV's get replaced but the inners just get refitted more often than not and they give exactly that sort of sympton when they start to fail.

Now I know genuine parts are a rippoff in Australia but surely one could source a subaru master cylinder cheap enough in Australia or rekit it if OK.

If the choke works and it starts and idles fine and goes ok in the lower gears then the jets are not blocked or it would not even do that. It does seem that possible it has an issue with the fuel tank breathing or the cap and it builds up a vacuum which eventually overcomes the fuel flow, You masy check the actual fuel in the carb. Another possibility is there is some loose crud in the float bowl and the jets do not draw enough fuel to suck it in and block the main jet until you hit third and the extra load in a higher gear means more fuel flow which then lifts the crud of the bottom of the float chamber and into the jet. I have also come across believe it or not a leaf in the tank of a Mitsubishi Starion (Conquest in the US) and it did the same sort of thing but only on hills longer than half a mile when it had enough fuel suction to lift it off the bottom of the tank to block the fuel inlet in the tank., Then blah no power because no fuel flow.

Toyota of some sort by the looks of it probably some landcruisery type thingo.

[media][/media]Yeah the guys that make them out here actually mould them to a section of actual floorpan from the different cars at least the ones I know do, I suppose they use some form of heat getting things just hot enough to soften the glue type backing without burning the carpet to get the shape,No doubt plenty of practice required doing that one.

Very neat looking and practical bars you have constructed and designed there Lucas well done, Oh and by the way how is the Girl handling walking everywhere or using public transport seeing as she refuses to drive such an awesome piece of automotive royalty and such an attitude does not get readjusted by the allowance of STI goodness as a means of transport.

Hi tweety do not change the idle jets it sounds as if they are as close to perfect as you will get, If as I suspect it is slightly lean on the prinary 32mm throat then do not change either pilot jets. What you need to do is play with the main jet, Air corrector jet combination this is where everybody stuffs up with carburettor jetting note the following explanation. Idle jet works at idle and up to roughly 1/8 throttle on a weber carb. Main jets this is where the mistakes are made by most people because all the majority of people change are idle jets and main jets. There are also emulsion tubes the ones the mains fit into at the bottom and the air correctors fit into at the top, there are options for these even with the 32 36 carbs though many more with DCOE side draught carbs, Generally with a aftermarket downdraught they will be somewhere close ex factory. Where you will find a difference is when you learn how main jets and air correctors work inj real mlife and it is not like most people assume. Main jets are not all about top end rpm tuning far from it the Top end is a combination of main jets and air correctors and the main jets actually start working from around a quarter throttle or sometimes less the Air correctors tend to work from higher up ijn the rpm range and they work in concert. So when you find a main jet that seems perfect at high rom but is say too rich lower down in the rpm range then what you do is go to a smaller main jet till the lower midrange mixture is correct and that now means the top end will be too lean, That is then fixed by going to a smaller air corrector jet which allows the smaller main jet to supply the correct top end mixture due to the smaller air corrector restricting the air flow into the emulsion tune thus making the top end richer by the restriction of a smaller air corrector. Conversely if too lean then the opposite applies, go to a slightly bigger primary main jet in the 32mm throat that will richen up the main circuit but with more emphasis lower down in the rpm range remembering trhe Air corrector on top of the emulsion tube is there to dial in the top end in concert with the main jet. So when it comes to the main circuit main jets are more effective when changes are needed lower in the rpm range and air correctors are more effective at the top end of the rpm range, Basically the air correction is more effective when more air is moving through the system and that occurrs at higher rpm so the main jet while it works across roughly three quarters of the rpm range is more effective from about one quarter throttle to three quarter throttle than it is at top end the top end is a combination of both air corrector and main jet but the air corrector has a greater effect at higher rpm than the actual main jet. For ideal results they must always be considered as a pair working together with the main jet doing the early heavy lifting and the air corrector doing the heavy lifting higher up the rpm range. In your case I would go up on the primary main jet say 5 at a time to test so if you are running say a 105 main jet in thye primary go to a 110 that will fix the lean issue on lighter to slight acceleration loads in the mid range but probably then end up too rich up top requiring a smaller air corrector,If the air corrector is say a 165 then going down to say a 145 will balance out the change in main jet at higher rpm, A good starting point is one size change in the main and then two sizes in the air corrector. This combination as an example would richen up the engine around one third throttle and the change in air corrector would mean the top end mixture if correct previously will end up the same as it was with the older combination of main jet and air corrector. A change of one size with weber mains is considered as five numerically so 105 to 110 is a change of one jet size, With Air correctors a change of one jet size is considered to be 20 so going from say a 180 down to a 160 is considered a change of one jet size. The only area where you can be caught out with the air correctors is in a very rare situation where the Air jets become too small and that means below fifty numerically because that can then mean there is not enough air flow to properly mix the fuel and air otherwise known as emilsify the mixture which is why we have a tune with holes in it called an emulsion tube. This is how emulsion tunes work they can be the hardest thing to get right if they need changing but will make a massive difference especially onj the DCOE dual barrel side draught carbs they have a series of holes for the air to enter they can and do vary in bothy size and number as well as placement along the tube all of which controls the emulsification of the air and fuel, Then on top of that they can and do also vary in diameter with a smaller diameter emulsion tube meaning it has abigger reservouir of mixed fuel to draw from which can stop the engine suddenly going lean in some situations when placed under sudden hard acceleration and heavy load at the same time, The accelerator pump alone cannot cope in such situations hence the different diameters in emulsion tubes. But as I said generally with a downdraught such as the 32 36 the factory supplied emulsion tunes are close enough to make it work Ok so the focus is more on actual jets and air correctors. If however after getting it running correctly when you open only the primary carb throat and it suddenly bogs down as the secondary throat opens you then need to go through the same process for the seondary throat as for the primary throat jetting wise. So now I have hopefully explained how the system of jets and air correctors interoperate with each other it should allow you to decide exactly at what rpm and load something needs changing and as you have already found out it is lean now you should have a better idea on which combination should give you the result you are looking for. Considerably more detail here, Including a chart showing how the different circuits overlap and work together http://www.datsun2000.com/tech/weber_tuning_methodology.htm

Fire Ants, Ever seen the size of their nests when they sort them out by pouring molten aluminium into the nests and then when it cools they have a massive 3D sculpture of a fire Ant Nest or maybe a "Hive" just like something out of Aliens.Link below so cool. https://www.google.com.au/search?newwindow=1&site=&source=hp&q=Fire+Ant+Aluminium+art&oq=Fire+Ant+Aluminium+art&gs_l=hp.3..0j0i22i30l3.3511.16723.0.17535.23.23.0.0.0.0.258.4627.2-21.21.0....0...1c.1.64.hp..3.20.4418.0.6T1pHIY2Mlg Heat isn't so bad as long as it is not too Humid now that really sucks like a Jet Engine, Unless you live in a Fire Ant nest like the above link then heat really sucks. Back on topic what have I done to my Subie lately, Broken no shattered really an Inner Double offset joint, Just turned the corner toward Work and rolled into the shop and fixed it that night so I could drive home.

Hit it with a pressure washer and then three days in the sun and it will be like new, Works very well on seats also and a good scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush and some good cleaner will also bring up plastics like new, It is amazing how dirty interiors get without you really noticing until you clean them properly.