coxy

EA 82 5 speed is the best performance, reliability and driving improvement you can do to an EA 81 vehicle just match the final drive ratio to the box, And Jono that is a standard Brat dash and being LHD they can get away with the four speed clutch cable unlike us where we have to adapt the EA 82 cable and mod the clutch pedal. I agree mod it to your hearts content as long as it can be returned to standard easily is the go

The covers can still be obtained ex Japan if required brand new, Disco got some when he was rebuilding Ellie, And I seem to remember that engine is still in his garage so those covers are only a couple of years old and about 60,000 miles use

Ha Ha reminds me of the time the Apprentice when I was working in the Country had to service a Farm Quad that did not run, Boy was he surprised when a very Pissed off Cat leapt out of the Air-box when he took the cover off. We rang the farmer and asked if they were missing a cat and they were so I guess that is one way to keep the little bastards away, I have spent too many hours repairing wiring harnesses after they eat the insulation off the wires. Of course another option would be to keep a Snake in your Subaru that should fix em might also keep thieves away though not guaranteed seeing as I had another customer complaining some bastard stole his snake out of his Ford utility (Pickup) which was kept in there for exactly anti theft measures, Still has the utility but the Diamond Python is long gone and was never seen again.

If you mean the hose from the Water pump back to the steel manifold pipe then the number and description are as follows. Hose 15x22x56x101 part number 807615021 year 1982 (Should be the same) from a pdf Subaru of America Parts listing. I seem to remember I came across it on one of the experimental Aircraft sites along with the Factory service manual a google search should net you a copy

All engines are basically just an Air Pump a 7 litre V8 just pumps more air to make more power, Ditto turbos just another way to pump more air. Where things get interesting is when you talk Torque all engine measurements are in torque, Horsepower is the work done so it is derived at by using the Torque figure in relation to a timebase , Ie RPM where this bewcomes interesting is when people start arguing about what constitutes a torquey engine build with people prattling on about long stroke engines or rod length to stroke ratios. In every case one must first put into the equation of ones thinking BMEP or Brake Mean Effective Pressure that is where the EJ 22 wins over the EJ 18 or EJ 20 all have the same stroke and unless aftermarket skulduggery is involved with Pistons and Rods the same rod stroke ratio's so the real difference we see amounts to real estate not so much capacity. Real estate ?? I see the thought bubbles by real estate something to grab your attention I mean the exposed area on top of the piston the EJ 22 has more area because of it's bigger diameter and therefore say you have 1500lbs/sq/ inch pressure on the piston top then if an EJ 18 or EJ 20 has say 6.5 square inches of piston top seeing 1500 lbs/sq /inch and an EJ 22 has 9 square inches of piston area seeing the same 1500 lbs pressure then there is two and a half square inches of piston seeing an additional 1500 lbs of pressure. If you can follow that it shows that Torque does not always relate to long stroke engines or rod stroke ratios they do make some difference regarding leverage as our torque or twisting force can be multiplied by leverage, But Torque can also be increased substantially with more surface area for cylinder pressures to work against and that is why the EJ 22 is so torquey. EA 81's gain torque through both piston area and long intake runners that maintain good port velocity despite less than optimal port layouts even with the rare factory reverse valve layout which is a massive improvement on high speed cylinder filling. So Stroke is not the be all and end all of making a good torque monster of an engine suitable for off road use.

Here are a few interesting links regarding dissembling Factory code from various MCU's as well as a link from Whittaker on his Youtube video's on how it is done with IDA pro. http://www.andywhittaker.com/disassemble-a-bosch-me7-1-ecu/ http://ecuhacking.activeboard.com/t20352005/sds-interface/ The second one is about making an open OBD tool for Suzuki ECU's most of which were Hitachi or ND processors.Much information available by looking up "ridgeracer and petrik" two of the main contributors into breaking factory code, You can also learn much about the style of coding factories use even though they work mostly in hex and assembly machine code is much more elegant and implements in a far superior fashion to modern lazy programmers high end languages with interpreters and constant calls and polling that goes with such software programming. While not ideal as with assembly code the bottom line is it does work, ST Micro would also be worth looking into for the main control chip they have some very good product with more than enough onboard ram to do the job. Freescale is another very good option to look into chip wise for what is envisaged. Much of that from a viewpoint of research and code can be obtained at free or low cost from the supplier which these days is called Renesas which is the company made up by combining Mitsubishi and Hitachi Electronics these days into one new company they make up in large part the OE supplier chain and components and software is available and not ridiculous cost wise for dedicated components. http://am.renesas.com/products/mpumcu/m32r/peer/manual_softtools_index.jsp

Good to see that Subaru Toughness shrugs of even attempts at sabotage

...that phrase is New for me. Kind Regards. Like This JesZeK Means he thinks he is a tough Man but in reality is missing everything that makes a real man in every way. I have another saying also Jezek you might like. "Ego is in Direct Inverse Proportion to Talent", It Means The more talented somebody is then the less need they have for an Ego as an Ego is basically Mother natures survival aid for those who are terminally useless otherwise realising just how useless they are they would find the nearest Volcano and jump in.

Made it home I hope, check and make sure the CV's are actually greased a few on here have had new replacement axles and some goose forgot to grease the CV's that's what it sounds like it could be if it's shaking and pulling to one side dry CV joints.

Wisdom in your actions Uberoo, sad to think that kind of Idiot is around but he will no doubt end up before the Courts after he beats up on his Girlfriend which is almost a given with that kind of Dickless wonder.

That dash needs Jezeks LED treatment makes a huge improvement and thanks to Jezek he has done all the hard work working out what LED's work best. here is the thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69467-ea82-dashboard-backlights-upgrade-to-hid-white-led%C2%B4s/

Yeah it's fine as long as you live where it never rains and you don't use the wipers if you do use them it all turns bad in about five minutes even quicker if it's off road and muddy. Seen it happen to a guy rallying a Lancia Stratos with a Lexan screen because in Australia Lancia Stratos screens are not exactly common and it took two months to get one from Italy and he did not want to miss an event, sadly for him it started raining and he had to pull out after three stages because the screen was so scratched up he couldn't see through it anymore. So I guess Plexiglass is fine for something like a side by side to keep the wind off when it gets cold but otherwise no go.

Start with a voltage check at the coil there should be about 7 volts with ignition in the run position and 12 volts when in the start position. The Ballast resistor is usually a long rectangular ceramic item mounted on or near the coil that has a wire coil winding tucked inside it much like a electric radiator element winding and operates the same way shedding voltage via heating up the wire element. The Idea is that you run a Coil designed to nominally operate on 7 volts and the start position of the ignition switch bypasses the normal coil power for run mode that goes through the ballast resistor and gives 7 volts to supply 12 volts in cranking start mode for a stronger spark when cranking. Seems your 7 volt circuit is either not supplying power or hooked up wrong, Get a multi meter and check voltage supply at all the wires near the coil and ballast both cranking power and run power should supply 12 volts at the wiring and when hooked up you should see 7 volts out of the ballast resistor that goes to coil positive terminal as well as a straight 12 volt supply from the wire powered up only when cranking that also goes to coil positive terminal. Negative connections are to distributor and tachometer only obviously they seem to be OK as it does start If you measure the power as explained above and both 12 volt supplies are found in the wiring at both crank and run modes then the ignition switch is OK if only one 12 volt can be found look at the ignition switch wiring

Ouch $400.00 US for a Loyale Dual range with third member, Here In Sydney, Well I can buy any Gearbox from a PIck and Pull for $270.00 AU which is about currently $213.00 US including Dual range LIberty, Legacy Outback or Forester and Forester Dual range boxes in Australia are 4.11 Gears with a 1.4 Ratio Low range stock. Outbacks Liberties and Legacies which here are Jap Import cars are dual range but like the US RX Turbo Loyals with only a 1.1 Low range drop ratio so while better than single range are just a Box to use to modify with Loyal 1.6 Low range gearsets. Obviously the Australian Forester Gearbox is the one to have for an EJ without building a custom Loyal EJ gearbox if only the freight was cheaper, Well I suppose it is when shipped seafreight and added to somebody elses container.

Check and clean all the Earth points on both the Engine and in the Engine bay when cars get a bit older these usually get higher resistance and everything works on voltage and high resistance means sensors see lower voltages than they should do and then the computer gets the wrong voltage readings and goes to the wrong look up table in the software telling it how much fuel or timing to supply. It definately sounds like it is lean and seeing as things such as Injectors have been changed as long as Fuel pressure is within spec then high resistance in the Engine management loom at either the earth points of one of the connections can cause those problems, Easiest and most likely are the earth points to check first because unlike most of the other connections they are exposed to atmosphere and can and will corrode or oxidise.

Awesome story Bryan, There is Karma and your good efforts have been rewarded and deservedly so Cheers and all the best with your Youth revisited and what a great way to relive your early years of Subaru ownership another good story like Drischnie from Germany who bought a mint RX Turbo coupe as a surprise present for her father in the Older Gen section linked here. I think you will enjoy reading this feel good story about another Subaru person reunited with their first Subaru model, Though not the actual car in this case. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147111-my-87-rx-coupe/

Sometimes others see somebody who works hard as potentially showing them up or as a threat to their own position, Dealerships can be very political animals as you have now likely figured out. Hang in there if somebody is not smart enough to see how valuable you can be to them then more fool them. This is the type of shop you belong in page three of this thread Andy's shop somebody who puts things into the right perspective, Oh and it is a real great thread and well worth taking the time to read with some very useful information within especially noteworthy about how the dealer dealt with the customer, What a pack of twits. Such a dealership would not work out for you you have too much pride and integrity in what you do, something obvious in Andy and Tracey's shop is a similar attitude to what you do when it comes to your work, Somewhere out there is the right people with the right attitude who will appreciate and welcome you into the fold. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=16202&start=30

Couldn't agree more Tom what a pain it is being on this side of the Pacific at times when helping others on the board, Options are pretty much all online and information or advice related unless people want or need something we only get over here like dual range EJ boxes or our different lighting systems such as indicators or parkers. Jesek while we all know you are a Laywer by Profession being out of work for a year sux big time,Maybe you can get part time work at a mechanical shop or even a Yonkers till something comes along you have the knowledge and skills to be a worthy employee and it could give you another option instead of the horrible situation you currently find yourself in,There is nothing more depressing than being unemployed. An added bonus is having contacts in the trade could help long term when needing parts with better pricing or having somebody chase things up for you instead of just being another customer.

Most Japanese Fan speed switching is done by a resistor board found inside the heater box inside the Vehicle, When these go bad sometimes you loose all fan speeds, Sometimes just one or two speeds or the fan works but too slowly. The actual switch just sends power to different resistor circuits on that damn board inside the heater box and that controls the fan speeds so never forget there are two parts to the fan speed switching on most japanese vehicles, They can be fixed by those with some electronics knowledge but are pull the heater out and apart to access to fix, So always do a power feed check from the switch at the heater connection before condeming the relays or switches as being the problem because just like the rheostat for the dash light dimming plays up as they get older same as do fuel sender units these resistor boards also play up as they get older.

Subaru like many Japanese cars run switched earths so One main power feed to the headlights and the Headlight switch switches the earth circuit and a changeover relay switches the high beams. High beams are separated and serviced by the changeover relay, most but not all have a headlight relay that purely supplies power to the low beam system and power to the changeover relay for switching circuitry, Low beam switching takes place in the High/Low switch that is where the earth circuit is completed look at that area. Datsuns 510,610's used the same switched earth systems and it can make wiring aftermarket lights or replacing headlights tricky because of the constant power that goes to the equivalent of what is the earth pin on normal headlight wiring and the other two pins that are normally switched power for high and low beam are in fact switched earths. Your Mechanic might be a great Mechanic but in many cases Mechanics farm out Electrical work to Auto Electricians so sometimes get caught out with factories that do things differently such as switched earth systems.

Hope all goes well in your Future until people have as many miles under their tyres they cannot understand the big leap of faith required to start fresh at that point in ones lifes journey. Small family concerns can be great but !! as you obviously know all too well when times get tougher Blood is thicker than water and relationships can change, No doubt plenty of unfortunates on here as elsewhere have either experienced a relationship breakdown and nine times out of ten it is Money and mounting Bills that are the root cause of Divorce or separation and after so long in the Job it is really more like a marriage breakdown very stressfull. Glad that is now the past and your future is bright because obviously your New employers are smart enough to recognise your experience is Priceless, Most Dealerships I see in Australia are probably just like in the US and no doubt many other places across the World, Fifty Aprentices and maybe two or three if they are lucky Gun Grade Number One Primo Technicians (We Havent Been mechanics for Twenty Years or more) that can fix things and sort out the Apprectices woes and Mistakes. Their Wisdom in not letting you escape their employment shows a wisdom in dealership management not seen that often where so many think anyone over thirty is "Too Old and beyond it", More fool managers with those Ideals for they are so wrong and I have no doubt they will thank their lucky stars you arrived. Have a great stressfree and rewarding Future where you are really appreciated for your Experience, Skill and obvious Loyalty the last being such a rare thing these days.

Till you sort something out just put an empty drink can in the drink holder with a bigger hole in the top and some wet dirt in the bottom that way it wont melt anything and will be easy to reach till something more permanant is sorted out for your smoke Butts.. My Brumby (Brat) has 1983 Touring wagon ashtrays fitted that are in the inner Door arm rest of the Touring wagons they had like three ashtrays in the front of the vehicle Dash centre plus both door arm rests, These Ashtrays while compact are a nice easy to mod size and shape that could be adapted to go almost anywhere in a centre console so maybe somebody on here has some to hand in their spares stash.

Here is a good guide and from an Aussie site to boot so locally applicable to what we can easily source, I agree with Jono they are better than a vacuum guage for looking after economy especially on the open road and with the added bonus they will let you know when something is not happy by the readings. http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=3032 Considering the whole Ignition saga in this thread here is another one of their Articles this on on Ignition Coil dwell time with electronics,With Points Dwell meant how long the points were shut thus allowing the Coil to recharge between firing events with obvious point being at higher RPM there is less time to recharge the coil before discharging it and with V8's even less time for the same thing to occur hence why so many Modern engines run crank trigger COP (Coil On Plug) systems to aid exactly that situation. The article relates mainly to Bosch Ignitors buy seeing as Nippondenso and Hitachi are actually Bosch designs made under licence it is applicable. Well worth reading to allow you a better understanding of how Ignitions work http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_113140/article.html?popularArticle

O2 sensors acxtually produce voltage because of a catalytic reaction between the rare earth elements in the sensor when exposed to oxygen they are calibrated so that at 14.7 AFR called also Stochiometric the Volatge output matches the correct parameter (usually around 3.3 Volts) to indicate to the Engine Control Unit mixture is correct if above or below the correct voltage output then the computer goes to a different table to modify the Base Fuel injector timing figures.Timing as in the ammount of Time the Injector is held open. So the O2 sensor corrects the mixture to compensate for either richer or leaner mixture by modifying the Base Fuel Injector opening times from correction tables carefully calculated by the Factory, But bear in mind all those setting tables in the Engine Control Unit are worked out in relation to a properly functioning Factory spec engine. More explanation here. http://www.diycardoctor.com/air_fuel_ratio_sensor.htm

Then again to Americanize it would simply require sourcing some "Mustang" Stickers because the RHD Brumby in Australia is actually named after a Wild Horse which is of course in the States a "Mustang", Now that would really confuse the average Person. Cool Ute (Utility is what we call Pickups) so in typical Aussie slang we tend to shorten names hence Ute. Here is a good example of Aussie "Slang" a Song by a dude called Austen Tashus and the song was Australiana which was made up od a play on various Aussie names and places. My mate, Boomer, rang. Will Walla be there? Vegie might come. Let's go, Anna. Only if Din goes. Nulla bores me. Speak ill of Warra. Ayers rocks in. Alice springs into action. Thanks, Warra, ta. Has Eucum been in? Wait until Gum leaves. On the lawn, Ceston. Marie knows. Leave Jack around a party. Adel laid it on me. Do you wanna game of euchre, Lyptus? Can Wom bat? Can Tenta field? Dar wins every time. Is Bass straight? Swim in the River, Ina. I've got no cosi, Oscar. Without a thread, Bo. Perish the thought. No cooler bar maid. Where can Marsu pee, Al? You reek of Stockade. Cook a burra. A pair of queens land in. Crack on to Wumba. Try tomount Isa. Trying to plat her puss. Flash your wanger at her. What'll 'ey care? Seen a cock or two. Pack Bill a bong. Will a didgery do? Where's the Tally-ho, Bart? Great, Barry—a reefer. Blew Mountains away. Lord! How? Hey! Man! How much can a Koala bear? Lead you astray, Liana. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97YnGQE1q6M Some translations Boomer Rang is a play on Boomerang the curved Aboriginal throwing weapon that returns when thrown if you miss. Will Walla be there is a play on Wallaby a small cousing to a Kangaroo marsupial Veggie Might come a play on Vegamite thet black strong Yeast extract spread we put on toast. Let's Go Anna a play on Goanna a rather large Lizard up to three feet long Only if din Goes a play on Dingo the native Wild Dog of Australia Nulla bores me a play on Nullabor the vast flat plain between Western Australia and South Australia along the Southern Coast pretty much One turn in the road for a thousand Miles or more Speak Ill of warra a play on the Illawarra region just south of Sydney in the State of New South Wales.