coxy

Build your own, RX turbo box has different ratios to the L series wagons but 5th is way tall though First, Second and third are taller and closer than the wagon so the Turbo box with the lower Fifth gearset swapped out of a wagon would be the best this side of either the rare and probably worn out Group A gearbox or getting somebody such as Needham to make a set up as Peter Holinger once did before he got the Suzuki Sport, Nismo and Opel sports option gearbox contracts, Well his company did as Peter has been gone for a few years now. But before he became a factory Supplier Peter used to charge $250 a ratio to build a close ratio box to whatever ratios you wanted, So I would Guess Needham , Modena or a couple of others that make close ratio boxes in Australia might be around $500.00 a ratio change. What applies to the RX turbo box may also include some mixing and matching with EJ bits as well, But one change that I can demonstrate would be changing the Input gears namely the input shaft the clutch plate runs on and the matching gear on the cluster if they can be swapped which many can. Changing those two gears changes all the ratios in the gearbox and depending on whether the change is a higher or lower numerical ratio change it closes up or widens the spread of all other gears in a gearbox except a direct drive gear like Fourth in many boxes. Example with Nissan type 71 gearboxes (260Z 2+2 -Skyline etc) some had a 3.6 first gear and some had a 3.3 first gear and other differences up to third gear simply because the input ratio was different two seater Zeds ran a 2.9 first gear Nissan as an example because of the ties between Subaru and Nissan for many years. Nissan as we all know used the same rear diff as Subaru which is why 510 (1600) owners hunt down Subaru LSD's but when Subaru first released the 1400's in America people blew the engines with monotonous regularity costing Subaru Millions retrofitting 1600,EA71's with taller gearing under warranty. It almost sent Subaru broke and Nissan became a part owner of Subaru for many years to bail out Subaru financially, Years later Subaru was making all the money and Nissan went almost broke and that is when Renault took over Nissan and where the Butt Ugly Nissan Styling over the last decade or so came from Renault Influence, Same happened to Subaru later with GM, Glad that era is now in the past.

Warning about Coolant mix ratios, Have you noticed that modern coolants are specced at higher mix ratios between 40% to 50 % that is because like so much Coolant mixes have changed formulae over the years and many modern coolants actually turn corrosive when the mix ratio drops below what the spec is, Bear in mind they do build in some leway in those ratios to cover themselves but topping up coolant with plain or distilled water is a potential recipe for disaster corrosion wise and our engines are all Aluminium. Corrosion in Alloy Engines is not your friend

Tony I would go back to the guy who Dynoed it the last time and point out maybe he should do some learing about just how igntiion systems affect fuel burn as obviously he may have adjusted the mixtures and in so doing was in fact trying to compensate for poor ignition performance, Do not be surprised even though it shows a nice color on the plugs that at some point it is too rich and elsewhere too lean. Especially as with our modern unleaded fuels the old trick of reading the plug color does not apply to unleaded fuel only the old super fuels a trap many fall into, With correct mixtures and clean burning the proper color will be much whiter than you think it would be us older members sometimes forget what once was is no longer and we have to relearn some things. Heck We have found on the Dyno at work that over the last three years jetting that once worked only four or five years ago with certain models and modifications is no longer correct the fuel has changed that much with the adoption in Australia of more Eurocentric standards for our Petrol (Gasoline to our Cousins over the Big Ditch) and Diesel. If he tried to tune something that must have had an Igntiion issue even back then he really owes you a free touch up of his previous efforts as he should have picked up the problem himself on the Dyno only 53 HP was not that good for the work done to the engine. Remember I do the exact same thing he does where I work, sorry but he should surely offer to do it right this time after you found and fixed the problem he should have found, Approach him nicely and explain what you found and see if he is willing to help out He should do so if he has any pride in his workmanship and reputation.

Jono regarding at least the Dual earth Electrode plugs I can tell you where they originated and why, BMW another Flay engine maker actually worked with Bosch to develop the twin earth electrode spark plugs to solve an issue with the K series Engines in their Bikes (K Series Inline four not across the frame like Japanese Four Cylinders and laid horizontal sump on RHS head on left) because lazy weakling owners ie Norton Street Leichardt Latte Sippers would not pull the bike up onto it's centrestand and parked overnight on the sidestand oil ran past the rings into the chambers often leading to Oil fouled plugs, The Twin Electrode plugs solved that issue which means they are a good thing in high mileage Subaru's that burn some oil as they do not foul as easily. Oh and that Ignition you talk about on my Brumby is a Suzuki 4WD Coil fitted to a Magneti Marelli Coil heatsink mount from an Alfa Romeo Alfasud sprint, Mounted Piggyback style to the coil with a fancy Nismo Bracket is a genuine Works Nissan Stanza CDI with a Stanza factory Distributor suitably modified and tweaked to fit into a Subaru. Ignition Output, Lets say that bench testing by hooking the system up to a 12 volt battery and spinning the distributor slowly by hand results in a strong Blue spark that easily finds it's way to earth through an average 150 page newspaper about maybe 8 to 10 mm thickness, Siffice to say Ignition is not an issue with mere compression to deal with.

Ignition Signal is needed to trigger Fuel Injectors, The distributor is driven off the camshaft make sure it is timed correctly and there is a tool called a "Noid Lite" that plugs into the Injector plug basically an LED in a fancy plastic housing if you are getting a signal to the Injectors it glows and pulses they are neither expensive nor hard to make and will make sure you have a trigger signal to the actual Injectors, Otherwise No fuel no Run.

Replaced a Driveshaft but regarding the title have a look at these Subaru Australia what would these days be called Infomercial's basically a two part roughly 15 minutes a piece overview and roadtest of the MY Subaru range from the early 1980's. The presenter is Evan Green who did have a motorsport background in Rallying as well as being a Journalist and it gives a fair test of the Cars capability and shows some typical Aussie terrain. well worth having a look, Even I did not realise that just as in America we supplied Subaru's for the National Ski Team. The wagon especially gets a good workout in the Creek as well as Evan having a bit of sideways fun on a Horse trotting track.

EA81 chambers are not that bad a design and with the flat topped or slightly dished pistons they tend to run fuel burn is while not as good as a modern four valve pent roof design better than many engines of the era and similar design,One good option I have used for coils are the Suzuki 4WD coils, Samuarai to our US cousins. They are designed for pretty much a similar system but are overall a beefier coil with better oil capacity and hence cooling ability, with anything Electrical and especially electronic Heat is a killer and the number one enemy of long life for electronic componets hence the use of heat sink compounds under the modules when fitting them to transfer the heat and help them live. Coil output voltage actually varies all the time the figure these people quote about there so called Super coils relate to the maximum they are capable of outputting and that only occurs under the woirst of conditions not seen all that often in the real world. The reason Coil voltage varies is because the load varies and the coil output adjusts as needed with higher resistance meaning coil output will ramp up to what is required depending on load conditions as well as other variables such as plug gap, Increasing the plug gap will increase the coil output and of course place more load on the system, when looking to improve combustion in the search for efficiency try looking outside the normal with such things as dual earth electrode spark plugs with the area above the central electrode open to the chamber rather than partially shrouded by the earth electrode. As one example the old Kawasali 900 Z1 motorcycles were notorious for having a flat spot around 3500 RPM once people fitted Pod Filters and four into one exhausts and richer or leaner on jetting did not cure that miss, What I found that did fix the miss was actually replacing the standard NGK B8ES plugs with BP8ES plugs with the projected nose placing the initial spark kernel further out into the Hemispherical combustion chamber making the flame front burn quicker and more effectively with better combustion actually being the cure for the miss not never ending Jetting changes as so many tried. Your direction shows tweety you have a better understanding of where you need to be going and why than you realise. Improving Combustion and pumping efficiency will surprise many at how much Power and Economy it realises when done right, The two results of better power and economy are far from being mutually exclusive and will achieve more than people think possible if they go in that direction.

JesZek the Diff Guard is a Subaru Australia made option Number 47 in the list to that date going on the part number and no doubt some searching will uncover the Blueprints and dimensions under the Australian Registered Design number noted on there as well. Not sure how long such a design stays registered for, But one only has to change a design by 10% to classify as a new design to avoid litigation over Copyrights and Design Registration. You could do that by using all four bolts to mount it at the front and gluing an open cell foam piece between the plate and the Diff Housing to stop rocks getting caught in between and potentially causing any damage , Then instead of the Diagonal slot just use access holes and the design is no longer the registered one and hence legal to make and use. The Foam Insert between any Bash Plate Sump Guard is something we did all the time on our Rally cars exactly to stop something like a rock sitting on top of the Sump guard being punched through the sump when you hit something very hard with the sump guard and it transferred the force through the rock. We Have rocks in Australia called "Ironstone" and believe me it may as well be a piece of irregular shaped steel sitting on top of the Sump Guard ready to damage your engines sump that is why we used the Foam filler so the Rocks could not sit there ready to do damage things.

I agree with Hsoj the way to do any modified vehicle is so that standard replacement parts bolt up to the Vehicle , Modify the car to fit the part do not if at all possible modify the part to fit the car it make things so much easier to maintain down the road.

The Aussie ones with the vertical supports, That part is easy to make as the vertical part is just a cut profile with thin strap about 1/8" thick and generally 1.5" wide wrapped around the profile and stitch welded as you go pretty easy to do with no real tools other than a welder. It could even be made to sit onto the original Subaru Bar on top and then make up a sump guard that extends further forward and up to the bottom of the original bar which could be reinforced internally therefore making use of the original bar and requiring no mounts other than for the sump guard slide plate which is what it would end up acting as also being reinforcing for the stock bar. Some of our Bars also have a side runner that follows the Guard profile and drops down to the Side Steps as well though with a Subaru Wagon the best way to reinforce the sill area is not side steps but a Stainless steel screw on Sill protector that follows the shape of the Sill Panel, Very hard to dent those suckers are.

Wish I could help but the Coupe is about as common in Australia as a Reindeer, Hopefully one of our American or other European or English Friends can chip in an answer.

175eya Drischnie is his daughter and he is very lucky and obviously a good father to have brought up such a daughter, Lucky because sometimes no matter how good the parents the child does not end up so decent as in this case sadly.

I would be highly surprised if the problem was the turbo if it runs OK at higher RPM, They can do with a good Turbo Service at times though cleaning out the carbon build up and resealing, Plenty of options to replace upgrade though with most turbos if needed as others have done in the past.

Never heard of a telephoto lens, I have seen people cop rocks from rear wheel drive and All wheel drive rally cars sometimes breaking a lens and other times more painful like one who copped a rock in the Family Jewels (he went down like he was shot moaning in agony).

Drischnie there is little wrong with your English and no need for apology. I bet Your Fathers face almost Broke in Half his Smile would have been so Wide for not only would he have seen such a wonderful car from his younger days in such excellent condition he would also have recognised how lucky he was to have such a thoughtful daughter who somehow managed to hide such a Gleaming Gem from him till the right time, Older Cars in such nice condition can often be rarer than the Crown Jewels so to speak.

I think I have the explanation for all these casting numbers Having Worked for Kawasaki, What few people realise is that in Japan for many decades production has run on the JIT basis (Just In Time) meaning the parts arrive just in time for assembly unlike the old days of manufacturing where many bins of stock sat there for the picking by the assembly line. That is why now people restoring the old Kawasaki Z1 900 can buy Exhaust Systems and Fuel Tanks and Panels from the Original suppliers to Kawasaki with the only difference being no Kawasaki part numbers are to be found like the original product supplied under contract, Similar has occurred with the Honda CB750 and it possibly will occur with some Car subcontractors if they were lucky or smart enough to keep the production dies or jigs to remanufacture what they once did as a subcontractor, Those particular Contracts long being finished and void allowing remanufacture of all but perfect replacement replica's. Now where this gets interesting is a little known fact that much actual Parts manufacturing for major manufacturers takes place in the back street shops of small subcontractors with the Factories using a number of subcontractors to ensure any issues with supply are circumvented by having two or more sources supplying if not identical parts then parts made to a certain specification, This is why sometimes the casting marks actually signify either the subcontractor or in some cases the location of one of the manufacturers own factories where production took place. In the case of many Manufacturers such as say Toyota there are differences in the Vin Number to signify which Plant manufacturing took place in not just whose vehicle it was, Not as stupid as it first seems when considering somebody with zero Vehicle empathy may just work in a Government department on a vehicle safety recall then all the numerical codes make sense, Such as the current Airbag Recall World wide where production numbers and plant or subcontractor responsible is traceable through part numbers and casting numbers to narrow down the search for affected units. When you learn how to decipher the numerical codes then it helps to identify the better parts options just as with the EA 82 heads, Or even things like the correct Distributor with the Mechanical and or vacuum advance that is most desirable having figured out the part number on the body for the right one, That is what you look for.

So are you guys trying to tell me even Foresters in the US do not get a Low range Tranny, Out here the Forester gets the best of the easily available Low Range ratio EJ gearboxes with a 1.4 Low range similar to the older four speed low range. As I said before Do you people not get Jap Import second hand gearboxes they would have Dual range and sometimes centre diff locking EJ gearboxes. As for redrilling any flywheel, It isn't that expensive in these days of everyone owns a CNC to get a new Steel flywheel made for anything I have seen redrilled flywheels and the fact Racers often add dowel pins as well says something. Yes I am totally aware that the clamping force does the driving just as when you think about it the Braking force with disks is just clamping force that stops a whole vehicle, You must use an EA sized flywheel does not mean it must be an EA Flywheel as pointed out above. When all said and done though a 2.2 EJ has what could almost be termed excessive torque for the application, Sometimes a smaller version makes for a better conversion such as the old Alfa Romeo 1750 GTV was a much sweeter Car to drive than the 2000GTV version, In a Loyal sized vehicle I believe for general use an EJ 20 or possible even an EJ 18 would make for a nicer vehicle to drive, EJ 2200 is used more because they are cheap and common not necessarily better. As for my fears being baseless Yes it may not be an Issue but try and find any professional who will put their hand up and admit to doing such a modification and thus placing themselves into a position of liability that would see them screwed in a Court case end of story.

Often when seals wear they also leave a wear lip where they should seal resulting in sooner rather than later another leak as the seal lip does not have enough tension on the sealing lip, There is a trick to increase the tension on the seal lip the spring that applies the tension to the seal lip can be shortened to apply extra tension on the sealing lip to take into account wear on the shaft front Pulley or whatever it is supposed to run on and seal. If you have a close look at the spring after you pull it out of a seal they are joined together by twisting, One end is actually a cone shape to screw into the other end which is a normal end if you look carefully you will see the join and untwisting it will separate the spring into one long straight tension spring, Simply cut from between 2mm to 3mm from the straight end so as to allow the cone shaped end to twist back into it and voila one shorter spring that applies more tension to the sealing lip of the seal, I suggest practicing on a the spring from an old seal to perfect the technique before doing same to a new replacement seal if you have wear where the seal lip runs.

Years ago when preparing rally cars I used all sorts of expensive paints including one made for the trucking Industry by Dulux paints (Now PPG) and guess what I found to be the best for rally cars, It did not chip like the too hard truck paint (Dulux Acran) and with some lateral thinking worked perfectly and gave a high quality finish. This is the secret Industrial Enamel (Now available in about 300 colors) mixed with Enamel Add (A Hardner like two pack paints) cost One litre of Enamel @$14.00 AU one Tin of Enamel Add @ $16.00 Au (Only used about 20% of that for a Litre) Spray with a high quality Spray gun designed for metallic paints (Extra fan air holes in the Nozzle) the trick them was paint and wait 20 minutes the paint was then dry with the hardner added unlike normal enamel that takes ages to dry. Then the real trick is to Buff the paint 20 minutes after being applied with "Burnishing Creme" a ultra fine cutting compound designed for two pack Paints, Result is a very high quality finish similar to a very good quality Acrylic Paint with about twenty hand rubbed and polished coats,The Finish is superb done right and dirt cheap as you use about a quarter of a litre of thinners, One Litre of Enamel and the enamel add to paint a whole car Inside and out. Compare that to the cost of fancy two pack or Polyurethane paints (Which are Great) Biggest bonus was however finding out unlike all other paints used before it was extremely stone chip resistant something of a major issue with Rally cars because they are always sideways copping a spray of gravel on the side of the car.

Question have you done a timimg check yet (dont forget the connectors to allow setting timing properly) the reason I say that is more often than not somebody adjusts timing with half worn belts and then you replace the belts and the timimng is out usually too far advanced which can make them Pigroot around and run like a Dog.

Seeing as often it crops up that people like to play with or convert to Turbocharging on some older Subies here is a link to a good paper from Formula SAE on Turbo development, some good info in here especially when you look at the contributors such as Dale Banks etc. http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1155&context=mesp

Here is some scientific reading on the Subject the first link and last link is a PDF you can save. http://deepblue.lib.umich.edu/bitstream/handle/2027.42/26638/0000180.pdf https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=13&ved=0CCwQFjACOAo&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.oerlikon.com%2FecomaXL%2Ffiles%2Fmetco%2Foerlikon_Paper_SAE_Madison_2012.pdf%26download%3D1&ei=4zpiVdmhK4HUmgW8goCACg&usg=AFQjCNHvtzTj_P0tp9V1Dz0mIUlf0afFhg&sig2=v8qNhV22YJnWHGGgaDk9dg http://www.transportation.anl.gov/pdfs/MM/848.PDF

Better keep it going by adding a Photo I supose

Whoops nine posts earlier, JesZeK posted guess what an SVX link, Doh don't worry Huck 369 you are not alone.