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Certainly is one sweet Brat and those wheels and the Gold centres with the polished rim match that particular Brat color scheme just perfectly. My efforts for the Brumby this weekend consisted of rebuilding some low mileage driveshafts ready for fuure use 147,000 KM originals Man they are babies in Subaru land and cleaning up the PS rack from the same donor as well as fitting a new Fuse Box for accessories in the Engine bay complete with Led telltales if a fuse blows, Replaced the PIAA relay and rewired the wiring to suit another relay style so my LED driving lights work again. Also working out and fabbing the bracketry to fit an EA 82 Power Steer pump EA 81 turbo style seeing as I detest the normal EA 81 humungous pump hanging off the cylinder head with an idler pulley bracket that resembles a Boomerang out of Mad Max, I will convert the whole system to a serpentine belt setup when finished, Water pump, Alternator and PS pump. Oh and some Bling for the PS lines seeing as I have so many Metric AN fittings courtesy of the Late Al Holberts Porsche race car I will make up some fancy Power Steer lines to fit the system up when I do it.

It is not the Flywheel that must match the transmission but the clutch plate and throwout bearing to match the carrier, The flywheel has to match the engine, Yes I know everyone drills them in the States but having seen what happens when a flywheel comes loose I personally would not risk such a mod when it is a simple matter such as with EA81 flywheels to machine them instead of drilling an EA82 as so many do and no doubt there is a better method than drilling a flywheel to make something fit where the factory did not when it comes to EA Engines also. The damage concerning a flywheel coming loose was from a Nissan FJ20 fitted to an early Toyota Corolla and it was a stock flywheel behind a 500 plus horsepower drag engine, The owner actually had a proper high tensile steel flywheel ready to go but decided he would change it next week, He went to the Friday night session at the drags and the cast factory flywheel came loose and broke up and almost chopped his feet off as it destroyed the gearbox, the Firewall and even chopped the water outlet off the back of the cylinder head, So I am not a fan of drilling flywheels beyond what the factory designed them as. Face it that amount of mass spinning at say 6000 rpm is not something you want coming adrift especially as it is when all said and done a very heavy circular saw with teeth on the outer circumfrence to bite you with.

Slippage on wet hilly roads, Maybe you people get better tyres in the States, But here in Australia in smaller sizes such as thirteen and fourteen inch tyres I get wheelspin off the line at 1200 RPM with an EA81 without trying in the wet, Seems there are nothing but rubbish tyres available in those sizes these days in Australia and that is with Korean 185/65/14 Kuhmo tyres not Chinese rubbish like Nankangs, Even Michelins here come from Indonesia and are rubbish compared to original French made ones.

Drishne I take it what you mean "He knows from nothing" is that this special car is a surprise gift for your father he has absolutely no idea is coming his way until it suddenly appears. You are pretty special to do something like that for your father, Sadly such family bonds are not as good and strong as once they were. As posted by other members on the style of the Cars from earlier eras everything these days is Watered down including family values.

That is the basis of the best Subaru gearbox, L wagon low range convert it and rebuild for the best possible Subaru Gearbox you can get.

Legacy everything gearbox motor and flywheel would be the easiest especially as in a lighter weight vehicle a 2.2 is a torque monster with only Front wheel drive and part time Four Wheel Drive making it all but useless in a place like Washington state where it actually rains. All wheel drive is the go and a Forester gearbox (Do they sell them in the States) comes stock with a 1.4 low range otherwise find an AWD RX Turbo gearbox and do the conversion into a EA 82 Wagon Low Range AWD Box based on the legacy case with the better low range from the wagon and the locking centre diff out of the RX AWD Turbo box. A number of people have built them there is a writeup on Ausubaru and somewhere here as well I seem to remember, Bit of mucking about but not that difficult,The other option is to get somebody to dig up the Northern Islands Japan home market spec AWD low range box with the locking centre diff in the EJ casings. They did make a locking centre diff dual range legacy type Gearbox for the home market with everything you want but very few seem to be aware of it, Maybe Ivans Imports can dig one up for you over there

If you could get the Air Fuel graph in the last chart sloping the other way and finishing at the same AF ratio at top end it would be perfect and probably get another 5 MPG on cruising. What it wants is about 14.2 to 14.4 at cruise and around 13.2 at full throttle, Did he do any part throttle runs as well as those figures at at full load and it is a bit rich down low and in the Mid range (We Have a Dyno at Work) Part throttle you would not want to go any leaner than about 14.5 or it would lose power and probably miss too much because of the manifold length on an EA engine, The theoretical perfect AF ratio otherwise known as Stochiometric is 14.7, Meaning 14.7 LBS of Air to One Pound of Fuel. With fancy modern Injection and Ignition systems they can run acceptable much leaner than that but they lose a lot of power, The XR6 for instance has a cruise mixture ex factory of about 18>1 and boy do they really pick up power making them a bit more normal richness wise. Problem with making things lean to pass emissions laws and looking for Economy is that often richening them up makes better power and torque and gets better fuel consumption but emissions go ballistic so we have the false economy forced on us by Bureaucrats whereby they see the emissions figures they want but the vehicle uses more fuel so for distance travelled a richer Illegal spec engine can in fact put out less emissions than a legal spec engine because it does not burn as much fuel for the distance travelled. A good example of that is that a Ford Territory actually gets about the same fuel mileage as a 1971 GTHO, Hullo what with the cost of fuel and a territory supposedly being a Family car why does it do little better than a Seventies Muscle car with a 351 4V Clevland when it has a supposedly efficient injected whizbang multi valve twin cam inline Six with variable cam timing??

Multi Point Injected Non Turbo EA 82 engined Loyals also use 25 spline inners, only single point injection and carb cars use 23 spline boxes.

Weld some reinforcedd channel section on the longer part mounted to the body and then replace the shorter part that goes through the rubbers with a Rod end and bolt the U bracket through the rod end with spacers allowing it torotate while still acting as a stopper. That will never fail again if done properly and it's not that big of a fabrication job.

yeah the Miata MX5 in Australia is a great Toy we even had a turbo one here where the factory distributor used 323 Turbo parts to make a factory conversion something Rod Millen has no doubt done plenty of after all a great chassis in search of more power but like the Brat a car with a long history and both well worth keeping. Had a customer with an MX5 did club race days all it's life and in 520,000 Km it took normal stuff plus one clutch and the usual Timing belts nothing else awesome reliable toy considering it regularily got raced.

Cat converter fitted, If so I have seen them for a short time work so well no smoke appears out the back as they consume and burn all that Oil, I would think if it has been sitting for a while the rings may well have stuck, Run some Subaru upper engine cleaner through it and that should get the rings resealing again though make sure to get the engine warm and run it through a running engine at over 2000 RPM do not spray half into the manifolds and let sit as per instructions in this case it could cause too much carbon to come loose and get stuck under a valve and then with Hydro Lifters you will lose comp on the cylinder when that happens as the lifter pumps up to take up the extra clearance. That is why I suggest just feeding it in gradually at around 2000 RPM down something like a Vacuum line direct into the manifold rather than through the throttle body or Airflow Meter.

I don't think it will be that desperate, More like you will be sleeping in the Wagon. Sure beats the doghouse though no fleas.

Plenty of Subaru wreckers across the US, Here in Australia we have a wreckers hotline so if they do not have what you want they put the call out and any wrecker on the hotline service will chime in with availability and price, The more that have stock the better for you. Do they have a similar service in the USA, If so ask and make use of it because here they also have a preferential freight deal due to the volume of parts being shipped, Like when last used I could ship an engine for less than a quarter of the rate normally quoted by freight companies through the Wreckers Hotline system and that meant shipping Interstate Brisbane to Sydney roughly a Thousand Kilometres for under a Hundred Dollars.

If the pump is really noisy I would investigate starting with all the fuel filters including the ones inside the top of the injectors they are easy to source, Plus a noisy pump could indicate poor fuel supply hence check the filters or just be worn out and not supplying good pressure another point to check. Compression, Spark (At the right time) and good fuel supply are all any engine in good mechanical condition needs to run, But things such as a collapsed muffler or Cat converter will block exhaust flow and cause issues after starting.

Hitachi carbs are renowned as one of the better carburettors for off road use something to ponder, Webers are good in some ways not so good in others ever had the external unfiltered primary air bleeds in a Weber downdraught carburettor block up not fun. I agree Walker Carburettor kits and not to mention all the other small oddball parts they supply such as Anti Dieseling valves, power valves, various replacement diaphragms jets ect they really supply most anything to rebuild a carburettor properly. Seems everyone complaining about Hitachi carburettors forgets most of them did many tens of thousands of trouble free miles before they started playing up, Much like the much detested EA 82 surely those were reliable when much newer, Seems we all forget when something gets older it may just need a little more than a basic cursory glance and tickle up to bring things back to reliable working standard. At least with early cars it is actually possible to fix things without taking out a second mortgage.

That is one pretty special RX, There is something about earlier cars that makes them special and that is because most modern cars regardless of manufacturer all look like they came out of the same mould.

Series One EA82 RX used the Flap style Airflow Meter Series Two used the Hotwire style Airflow meter as well as Different ECU types including connectors only swappable complete.

Surely there are a million good second hand ones available from members here with the dreaded cracked head syndrome and hence mucho spare bits

Off course those 500,000 KM Engines would have at least half a point of compression just from the carbon build up, So unfortunately compression readings are not the be all and end all especially when you take into account differing cam specifications and hence effective inlet valve closing points

I just rebuilt one that was more of a pain in the but than that, A wreckers used carburettor that never ran right missing down low. Pulled it apart and found that after a full strip and clean somebody had changed out the Base throttle plate and on closer inspection the Fuel Feed hole did not line up for the progression ports to allow them to actually feed fuel just off idle. So be aware that if somebody has mixed up the carburettor Body with a different Base throttle section they do not all interchange and work even if they actually bolt together, Make sure the Fuel feed holes all line up the Phenolic spacer between the two sections is a good guide to check with. This came off a clean looking EA 81 Touring wagon with the high roof and luckily I had an early EA 82 carb where the base matched the EA 81 carburettor Body section to sort it out, but not all Hitachi carburettors are the same so always remember someone may well have been there before you and stuffed it up giving you the option of not just fixing a normal problem but one caused by somebody else in the past so check everything carefully, Anything can happen after more than a quarter of a century with used parts.

Seems nobody else noted that the cylinder head in the Competitive RX brochure is actually a Modified Standard valve type head not the EA 81 S reverse valve style head as used on the Manatee racecars, Look at the front head shown in front of the car where the combustion chamber is visible and it is clearly obvious from the chamber shape that the larger inlet valves are on the outside as with the standard type heads. Another giveaway is that the spacing for the Weber IDF carbs lend themselves to a modified standard head as is currently done by some of the Experimental Aircraft Engine Builders in the US, What with the reverse valve EA 71 S and 81 S type engines having the inlets closely spaced together which works well for the stock manifold setup but does not work so good with dual throat Webers. Seems that those Subaru Engines were in fact pre group A proper and likely homologated under Group 4 regulations in a similar way to that done by Nissan with the "Violet GT" variant of the Nissan PA HA 10 series Stanza or new 510 as it was known in the US. Nissan homologated the LZ 20 B type four valve twin cam with such a model run of 200 vehicles supposedly available in Jamaica ( Yeah Right Not Likely) Ford also did something similar with the Escort RS 2000 but in Germany they actually did supply the parts namely a twin IDF Webers setup and better cast iron exhaust manifold in boxes in the boot of the new car when purchased from a Ford Rallyesport dealership with intentions for a Competition life for the vehicle again for Homologation purposes. It is clearly visible in the post just under the Blue VW with the EJ engine where the Cylinder Head next to the driving lights shows a standard type combustion chamber with Inlet Valves in standard configuration not as with the reverse valve S type Engines. Here is a Nissan LZ 20 B engine, Subaru likely did something similar when it came to the good bits, Not really available except as competition bits and then probably only for the "right drivers".

The "Spacer" referred to is a steel casting designed to allow what we in Australia call an Exhaust Gas Recirculation Pipe to be fitted into the system, They were bolted to the head and then the exhaust bolted to them, That is why the later Cylinder Head castings had four bolt holes at the exhaust flange instead of just two,But be aware if removing them the exhaust studs when fitted after removing the EGR takeoff spacers are only about 10~12mm into the head casting most Exhaust studs are about 1.5 times the depth when fitted into an alloy casting so they can and do strip the thread in the head if not careful. I upgraded mine with Wurth Timeserts for that reason, I did not have a head to cut up to see if I could drill them deeper for more thread engagement hence the Timesert upgrade.

Hydraulic Lifter removal slide hammers work for removing pilot bearings for engines where the bearing is fitted into the crank as well as obviously the dedicated tool for the Job. But with pushrod V8's being so common in the US you can more easily find a lifter puller than a Pilot bearing puller.

Most coolant temp sensors work as an NTC system which means the following.Note the resistance Decreases as temperature rises. Negative Temperature Coefficient Thermistors Part 1: Characteristics, Materials, and Configurations This introduction to NTC thermistor technology will help engineers and purchasing agents make the best choice for the application. Greg Lavenuta, Cornerstone Sensors, Inc. Browse our catalog and search for our products at GlobalSpec.com fter time, temperature is the variable most frequently measured. The three most common types of contact electronic temperature sensors in use today are thermocouples, resistance temperature detectors (RTDs), and thermistors. This article will examine the negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor. Photo 1. NTC thermistors are manufactured in a variety of sizes and configurations. The chips in the center of the photo can be used as surface mount devices or attached to different types of insulated or uninsulated wire leads. The thermistor element is usually coated with a phenolic or epoxy material that provides protection from environmental conditions. For applications requiring sensing tip dimensions with part-to-part uniformity and/or smaller size, the devices can be encapsulated in PVC cups or polyimide tubes. General Properties and Features NTC thermistors offer many desirable features for temperature measurement and control within their operating temperature range. Although the word thermistor is derived from THERMally sensitive resISTOR, the NTC thermistor can be more accurately classified as a ceramic semiconductor. The most prevalent types of thermistors are glass bead, disc, and chip configurations (see Photo 1), and the following discussion focuses primarily on those technologies. Temperature Ranges and Resistance Values. NTC thermistors exhibit a decrease in electrical resistance with increasing temperature. Depending on the materials and methods of fabrication, they are generally used in the temperature range of -50°C to 150°C, and up to 300°C for some glass-encapsulated units. The resistance value of a thermistor is typically referenced at 25°C (abbreviated as R25). For most applications, the R25 values are between 100 and 100 k. Other R25 values as low as 10 and as high as 40 M can be produced, and resistance values at temperature points other than 25°C can be specified.

Don't forget the differences in Axle splines between the different 5 speeds EA 82 engined cars with MPFI and RX turbo's are 25 spline outputs from the front diff, Carburettor EA82's are 23 spline outputs from the front diff make sure you get the one that matches your front driveshafts or be prepared to change parts.