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Well I haven't done much except collect parts, But if you have never heard of the late Professor Gordon P Blair then look up Blair and Associates and download some very good technical articles well worth reading from the main page links. This man was a genius in both two stroke and four stroke race engines and many of the theories and principles that applied to any engine make if more powerful and efficient,He was the man in charge at Queens University Belfast in the Engineering Faculty and his following poem may just give a hint of his abilities. http://www.profblairandassociates.com/ *********************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************** ''The Last Mulled Toast A Grand Prix race is very rough, the going's fast, the pace is tough. The four-stroke rules the world of cars, in bikes it´s the two-strokes that are the stars. Now, why is this you´d have to ask? The rulemakers you can take the task. For the intake air never needs to question, "Is this the right bellmouth for my ingestion?" The designer of both must surely know, or else his engines will all be slow, unsteady gas dynamic trapping by right and left waves overlapping. To model an engine is algebraic simple. You sit on the gas like a veritable pimple, solving the maths the waves to track from valve to bellmouth in the intake stack. At the inlet valve you scan induction, count the air that´s passed by suction and just as the valve would shut the door, you get a wave to ram home more. In the exhaust it´s furnace hot, for the modeller ´tis a tropic spot. Exhaust waves reflect but do the job of sucking out the burned gas slob. Some time ago I wrote two tomes on two-strokes, including poems. It seemed only fair to tell those with cars that black-art tuning is best kept for bars. This book informs the four-stroke tuner what I wish I knew decades sooner, as Brian Steenson followed Agostini with my exhaust on Mick Mooney´s Seeley. The pen´s both strokes have now been told. My writ is run, I´m pensioned old. While I may be ancient and time is shrinking, only Dei voluntas can stop me thinking.'' SIR Gordon Blair, 1 November 1998

I have sometimes come across an issue where replacement Distributor caps do not line up correctly with the Rotor button hence spark issues arise. Make sure you have Number one at TDC and then check the sweep of the mechanical advance which even a Turbo Distributor of that era will have and after marking where the cap lead pickup is on the Distributor body for number one cylinder make sure the Rotor button pretty much lines up throughout the sweep from both the mechanical Advance and Vacuum retard advance modules arc of movement. You should find that at either extreme of rotor button movement at least part of the rotor button will line up with the marked position where the Number one Plug lead has its aluminium internal pickup point inside the Distributor cap, If not you will have weak spark issues and missing and hard starting. I have come across this a few times when Genuine parts are not readily sourced that some aftermarket stuff just isn't right, It can be a real trap as the last thing you expect is a problem with new parts. Last time I had this issue it was a Nippondenso Distributor on a Toyota Celica TA 22, a Supposedly Made in Japan Bosch branded Replacement Cap drove me nuts till I figured out what was the problem.

Just remember where ever you weld you need to be able to access it afterwards and seal it with something like Fishoil antirust coating to stop it rusting out where the metal has been hot, Not just on the outside where you Fill with Body filler and then prepare and paint that is obvious but inside where if not prepared to make sure no oxygen can get in it will rust again where it has been repaired. That is especially an issue when you have used a Joggler to make an overlapped joint, Yes it is stiffer and less likely to distort but that overlapped section is a moisture and hence rust trap to be considered and treated appropriately.

See my answer to the EA81T miss and stumble thread for some points to look at, Scoobiedubie EFI models like the Turbo's should not have points but they can have issues with Earthing for the Module etc as posted in the other Discussion.

If it has been sitting for six years I would very carefully go over all the EFI electrical connectors and make sure they are clean and tight because a bad connection will cause problems and it seems you have a car throwing up different codes but not necessarily any real problems, Have you had the injectors serviced and flow tested fuels go off and gum up things like your Fuel pump but as well there are small basket style filters in the top of each injector they can become blocked stopping the correct amount of fuel being injected , That will cause a miss or stumble much like you are experiencing, But as with Carburetors remember most "Fuel System" problems are in fact Ignition related make sure all of the Ignition system is up to scratch, Dissy cap Rotor leads plugs connections earth points for both the Engine and Coil and Module in the Distribution as corrosion can and will cause bad earths and problems as well there,

Yeah I really envy you guys in the USA Walker have an awesome range of carburetor bits and pieces, Not just rebuild kits but almost everything you could think of.

Built plenty of Jaguar straight sixes with Cork sump gaskets and never had a leak, the trick is to coat the gasket with CV grease the Black stuff which melts initially but then leaves a coating like graphite that helps seal things nicely. But the real trick is to assemble with an Inch Pound Torque wrench evenly and put some nut lock on the fasteners so they maintain that even pressure (Which is very light) that way they never come loose and maintain that even pressure and guess what they do not leak and the cork allows for differential expansion rates. If not using Cork like that however I will only use Threebond it is head and shoulders above all other Silicon based sealants and even it has a range of different sealants, For instance use TB1104 rather than TB1215 the 1104 is what Japanese Motorcycle manufacturers use to seal their crankcases and it is somewhat more viscous and sticky than the 1215. They also do a Black Threebond that Toyota use to seal their sumps but I have seen that go from $15.00 for a 150gm tube to now $60.00 after they worked out how popular it was and it makes no difference if you buy it as Threebond or Toyota branded sealant same price same great product and no change in the formula to justify the price increase either as the MSDS Data sheets proved that to me.

I would have the spacer welded for the throttle body to the manifold with a very generous fillet, That way you could then put a nice radius into the runners to aid flow aiming to have the most volume possible to the heads and then a nice tapered port area opening up just past the valve guide area into a good pocket port style of porting . After all without a Ram type 4 port conversion with normal EA 81 heads they have that horrible port that starts in the middle and goes out to the Inlet valves in a stretched "S" shape unlike the much nicer reversed valve Twin carb EA 81 S motors where the Inlet valves are in the centre.

When all is considered the float operates the fuel cutoff in the needle and seat assembly purely from the pressure applied by fuel lifting the float up, Somehow I doubt the different carburetors all need a different fuel pressure what works for a Hitachi should be fine for a Weber or a Holley or any other type of carburetor. The real problem requiring a Fuel Pressure control system for carburetors is that some pump manufacturers think you need or want more fuel pressure and make their pumps too powerful in that area, Why who knows if for instance you run a Big Horsepower V8 with twin four barrels that will not need more pressure from a pump , Maybe more volume but not pressure. However one thing does apply lots of volume into a restriction can cause a rise in pressure hence why many factory systems do use a return line that allows excess volume to bleed off so keeping the pressure under control. Note that Subaru themselves have that fuel return line for exactly that reason to allow excess fuel to bleed off and keep pressure at a controllable level that then stops the carburetor from flooding.

Great to hear that you seem to have found an Enthusiast in Texas who understands the situation and was willing to help another Enthusiast out, Well done and Good Karma to him.

Central Idaho chase up the Horsey type suppliers and get some Molasses works really well to remove rust.

Firstly Carfreak85 take note regarding Knife Edging of Dividers fine to taper to a smooth narrow edge but not a Knife Edge on the Exhaust Divider but definitely do not do so for the Inlet, Now I will explain why I say that and hopefully it will make logical sense. Think about the shape of an Aircraft wing and forget the differences for the moment between top and bottom profiles which can all be researched by looking at NASA Aerofoils with a Google search. The Leading Edge is never Knife Edged and they spent thousands of man hours looking for maximum flow at all different air speeds to come up with that which equates to different RPM when talking Port Dividers, However the trailing edge is always tapered as this combination aids higher flow speeds what we are looking for. We are looking for higher flow speeds providing the air speeds do not go Supersonic as the timeframe of a high speed engine requires quick cylinder filling, Not supersonic as Honda found out with some of their two stroke 250cc GP bikes where port speeds exceeded supersonic leading to all sorts of reversal tuning related issues (think internal sonic boom). But the real trick is not just numbers but mixture quality or to be blunt good even fuel distribution and I believe that may be what that small ridge type divider is for on the port floor for the intake. Because of the inherently long intake runners mixture dropout will be a problem with most Subaru engines hence the water heated inlet manifolds to help counter that problem. That is why all thinking Cylinder head experts with the money now use "Wet" Flow bench testing but a compromise can be made by introducing some smoke color to your setup at home allowing you to see to an extent what is going on. Pocket porting does work very well on Subaru's do be very careful about the short side radius as I believe it is not just vital on any cylinder head but of utmost importance in Subaru or other Flat engine configurations, Blend into the valve guide boss if possible do not just remove it as while that can help full Valve lift flow it is only at that point once but at lower lifts twice so going too big will lower port flow. What will work best is a gradual taper of the port dimensions to the narrowest point near the valve guide then opening up in the pocket area behind the valve, That way flow speeds up to that point and then slows behind the Valve helping to minimize turbulence at that point. This will allow a much more even Fuel Air mixture to flow into the Cylinder which aids both power and economy by the production of better Torque figures an aspect of the EA 81 I am sure most realise is one of it's best points. The Long intake runners contribute much to Torque production something not as useful in Light Aircraft use hence why you see them use short runners and dual carburetors on EA 81 conversions in many cases. With the Multi Point EA 81 T engine mixture drop out is not as great a problem but it does occur, At least with modern type injectors that area has improved compared to the original Denso Bosch EV6 type Subaru used back then.Search about EV6 and EV 14 Injectors to find out the why's and where fors that apply especially to Modifying EJ type engines that often find a home in Early Subies. Tom above is pretty much on the money regarding finish but you can go as fine as 120 grit in cartridge rolls for the intake and remember Valves can be shrouded on both sides the exit into the head for the inlet is as important as the entry side and the reverse for the exhaust valve. When thinking flow think Venturi and where the narrow point needs to be and always consider how a River flows fast on the outside of the bend and much slower on the inside, same applies in any bend in a port or for that matter Inlet or exhaust manifolding. That last point can cause mixture drop out and running issues or at least a drop in power and issues getting consistent tuning.

These for a start.Toyo Open Country M 65 and yes in 27 X 8.5 X 14.

1982 Model if it has points and Condenser I bet the Condenser has failed. Condenser is a small round metallic surge capacitance absorber to stop the points burning out, It is connected to the points via a single wire inside the distributor.

Regarding the stainless trims around the bed in a Brat or Brumby a friend of mine who is a scientific instrument maker told me about a machine with dies his grandfather once had that other family members disposed of not knowing what it was. It was in effect along the lines of one of those Swage and Jenny machines with a selection of special steel rollers that was capable of repairing all the trim pieces on early twenties and thirties American cars which were for the most part either brass or stainless on the better models. So seeing as Subaru's use stainless trims even getting some speciffic rollers made up with the appropriate form to match Subaru stainless trims would then allow anybody to re roll the damage and dents out of the Original Subaru trims and then just repolish to end up with what would be in effect as new Trim pieces. Some of the standard rollers as supplied with these tools would also be capable of rolling out dents etc even on edges, So why hasn't anybody done so yet?? These Guys are doing something along the same thing, If you look at the trims in the last picture an appropriate roller shape would make it all to easy to roll out any damage in such a shape so why not Subaru's. http://www.secondchancestainless.com/ Another who does exactly that. http://stainlesstrimworks.com/ A YouTube Video on working stainless to give you an idea of the possibilities.

Look up Pocket porting namely the area just before the valve seat that is where you pay the most attention as it will give about 80 percent of the benefits power wise, with such a long and not very efficient intake runner actually opening up the throat of the port will likely be of academic benefit unless like some of the Airplane or Gyro people you make a totally new intake manifold and run twin carbs above the heads. As for flow benches they can trap people very easily as you can port to get better numbers and lose real power because of poor mixture mixing and fuel dropping out of suspension, The real standard these days is what is known as a "Wet" flow bench look it up and see what I mean, An older dry flow bench is only as good as the person using it who has decades of real world knowledge.

Same as the wagon or hatch ?

When you pull the box apart if there is no visible damage to the syncro's a trick I have used successfully in the past with Rally cars is to glass bead the syncro cones, Tape up the gear and glass bead the matching syncro hub on the gear. Often what happens is the surface gets a Polished finish and they do not brake the gear efficiently enough to synchronise properly, Quite a common issue on Honda gearboxes in Civics, Especially if very high quality synthetics are used too early in their life, Just like piston rings gearboxes need to bed in to work best.

The ultimate tool for checking such things is the power probe as it can supply not only lighting with it's twin led headlights but also supply independent power and earth at the touch of it's rocker switch, I cannot imagine what I did before getting mine a great tool and much cheaper in the States no doubt. http://www.powerprobe.com/pp3.php

Jonno just make sure the "Pin" is firmly secured in that Hand Grenade Engine, I would have gone EJ 18 0r EJ 20 seeing as they are self certification compliant in NSW being within the 15% self certification ruling size wise.

Hot run and start sounds like the Ignition Coil wiring on a Brat etc. Starter wire only operates the solenoid at the starter so as long as it's getting proper 12 volts should be OK Hot fused I assume just means 12 volt power possibly Ignition Key switched not necessarily always powered that could cause problems with flat batteries.

Doesn't the EA 81 Wagon use the same sensor at the back of the tank, I seem to remember they do last time I was under one at the Pull A Part

Do not know on that one but in my Brumby I actually modified Liberty/ Legacy motors to work, But I did do some sheet metal work on the doors to accommodate the mods, It took a weekend including the Wiring which I based on some early GM system I found on the net simple and no computers needed just switches and relays and not that hard to do. Proper EA 81 stuff does bolt in though not sure about EA 82 as I decided to use the latest stuff I could find for reliability reasons and ease of replacement.

Just make sure you use an Alloy V8 so it has a chance of actually handling good, And yes go for it. You could always do something really rare considering the ties between Nissan and Subaru in the early days and import a Nissan President V8 and fit one of those which were a Japanese Hemi knockoff, Now that would really make people wonder.

You can always find a backstreet old school Engineering shop and have the Hitachi re-bushed to fix the throttle shaft wear, they are a great carburetor when working well especially off road.