coxy

There is nothing like a Subaru Brat, Except another Brat so Come on Subaru make us a New Brat you could base it on the XV and even make it a bigger Brother based on a Forester. Heck you could even make a Japanese El Camino one based on a Liberty. So wake up Subaru now that Evil GM influence is Gone to be replaced with a Dash of Toyota as sadly the Early Nissan Influence has been Frogified by Renault and is no more run with the Toyota influence for they are the Kings of Japanese Utility Vehicle. Heck you could even do a BRZ/86 deal and make it in two flavors and bring a whole lot more people to Brat heaven.

Original choke power wire, Carried over from manual choke models which at least in Australia used a power feed at the other end of the choke cable because the choke is held open by an electromagnet at the dash end of the choke cable,Just remember when the ignition is turned off the choke resets to off with that setup.

ADS is a Solenoid on the side of the Carb Body with just a single wire going to it,It has a spring loaded needle valve that is opened for fuel flow through the idle circuit. When you turn the ignition off the valve shuts off fuel to the idle circuit preventing run on or diesieling.If this becomes faulty then no fuel to the idle circuit or very little and hence poor or non existant idling occurrs. Just look for the round metal cylinder with one useually black wire bolted on just below the float chamber gasket level.

Considering the problems many have had with CV Joints on vehicles lifted too much more detail on the VW CV conversion should be interesting reading Pics please.

We did things differently in Australia, Brumby's Ie Brats always had side intrusion bars in the doors on Gen 2 models. Inertia reel seat belts are not as good as a seat belt that is fixed properly adjusted, Inertia reels were designed because Joe Public is mainly an idiot who either never wears a seat belt or does not adjust it properly. Because Inertia reel belts allow you to accelerate forward and hit the steering wheel and or dash that is why they bought in Airbags it was basically admitting Inertia Reel belts are not as safe as conventional Belts properly adjusted, After all think about it when you hit something would you then want to accelerate and then be bought to a sudden halt, Makes no sense when looked at with some physics. A conventional seat belt properly adjusted will hold you firmly and then stretch to absorb the G forces of the impact, A Harness with at least 4 points will keep you square and not allow you to twist with all the danger that can represent, The 5 Point stops you slipping out from under the seat belt and under the dash not a good place to be post accident, Mind you only Ricers drive laying almost Horizontal so normal people are less likely to slip out from under the seat belt. So as you can now see Airbags are all about admitting late seat belts are a poor Joke compared to at least a Shoulder Lap fixed Belt and in no way approach the safety of a Full harness. There is after all a reason why every Motorsport Governing Body World wide does not allow the use of standard seat belts except on Transport stages in Rally's and zero tolerance in Tarmac Racing, Harness's only there.

Put plenty of large cable ties on it to contain the spring forces (They are stronger than you think) then take the strut out of the car where you can use spring compressors safely to reassemble the errant strut and loctite the nut and if possible find a newer nut this one is probably damaged not so the thread on the hardened strut shaft.

I have the engine manual as well as the Brumby manual complete in PDF Format, Pm if needed.It does include the Turbo Engine Forget the EA 82 the EA 81 is much better, with the big clutch use an XT6 Pressure Plate, the early cars used a smaller clutch so a flywheel will be needed. Five Speed use EA 82 the bits needed to bolt in are sold by a member here, Jerry. Not sure on Axle spline count for the EA81 Turbo somebody will know we never had them in Australia. Vented Rotors bolt to the Hub so are not affected by spline count. Fuel Gauge check the sender sometimes bending the moving pickup so it contacts the rheostat sections better fixes that, the pickup sweeps across a segment with different lengths and thus resistances allowing the reading of fuel levels. Great find a Turbo Brat with no rust, I would assume rubbers are available somewhere in the USA we have companies that do replacement rubbers in Australia a much smaller market so surely somebody does them in the US.

If it's blowing fuses the problem has to be in the power side shorting out somewhere,Blade type fuses can be replaced with Circuit breakers that plug in these days so you won't run out of fuses as when they cool down they reset after opening the circuit, But the botton line is a short somewhere needs addressing as soon as possible in case it causes a fire.

A safe and cheap and highly effective way of cleaning rust out of fuel tanks is believe it or not Apple Cider Vinegear, Takes a few days and a refill or tow but much better than playing with acid to clean rust out. A google search on this will show some amazing results.

GL Loyale is right, Modify the part you will never be replacing rather than the part that needs more servicing, otherwise every time the drive shafts need fixing it becomes a pain in the butt.

Most Alloy bars in Australia are 2.5 " to 3" but for steel I would use no smaller than 2 "

Pull the sender out of the tank and make sure the sliding contact is making a good connection across the Rheostat section, You can bend the sliding contact to make better electrical contact, You can test the change in resistance out of the tank and you want to see not only the zero to 90 Ohms reading but a smooth transition as the contact sweeps across the rheostat. You can also buy a Rheostat from an electronics supply and use it to test the gauge as well with the aid of a Multimeter mark out the different ohms as you adjust the rheostat, Instant cheap Factory type tool I have a VDO gauge test tool and all it is is a Rheostat with markings for Ohms readings across the scale in a Plastic enclosure.

Something like these linked Australian Ute racks can be made with a slip in mounting bolted into the Bed and you simply slip them in or out as needed. The Front one can be left in and made more permanent as a Roll Bar behind the cab that can still be used to tie shorter loads onto with a couple of vertical stabilisers to stop timber etc from sliding off. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Racks+for+utes&FORM=HDRSC2

Experience with Lexus Lexi? (plural) shows that the light 0W20 they run causes big drama's around the 100 thousand mark (Kilometers) or about 60,000 Miles with Oil leaks from everywhere requiring resealing so I would likely go up to a 10W40 oil for much of the US in summer and maybe a 5W 40 in winter after say 40 to 50,000. But more relevant to Subaru's is my time also spent on BMW Boxer Engines they were notorious Oil users with certain Oils and the problem there was BMW Owners had the attitude of never doing any mechanical checks just Factory by the book servicing,Some Oils they would use 2 lites in 10,000 Kilometers half the capacity of the Engine, But going from say Castrol to Mobil and from Semi Synthetic in the Castrol to a Full Mineral in the Mobil both being a 20W50 spec the change to Mobil Mineral fully stopped Oil useage down to a maximum of at the most 100 mls instead of 2 litres.and that was consistent on a number of Engines and different Riders and Riding styles over maybe 20 Bikes at the time.

CEO's and CFO's all need 50 years in the slammer in my opinion as well as all Politicians as they are all Too Stupid to see that whenever they outsource Jobs Overseas they are actually Outsourcing their Customers. Company A employs 500 people who are all customers of Company's B,C,D and H. Company A decides to save money and shut shop in the Good Ol USA send 475 Jobs offshore only keeping wharehouse staff in the US so Companies B.C.D an H have just lost 475 potential Customers or their buying power is considerably less, Meanwhile Companies B and D decide to also do the offshore thing and another 950 jobs are gone so now the customer base has lowered or diminished by almost 1500 or at least their spending value has plummeted so times get tougher and Company C and H decide they can no longer survive and cannot even afford to move offshore so 1000 jobs are gone. Question who will be left working and paying Taxes to cover everything, This is just Like Union twits who are so greedy they will rather have 100% of nothing than cave in to common sense and destroy a viable company because of Greed by refusing to negotiate similar to what happened to TWA back then. We see the same here in Australia.with Toyota General Motors and Ford shutting up shop so soon we will make Nothing in Australia, That of course means we also have no means of making Defense equipment to defend ourselves either, How many are aware that during the First Gulf war Harley Davidson shut down Motorcycle production for Six Months to make Missiles and Torpedo's? But when it comes to Tools and suchlike even Governments are stupid, You either make quality at Home or Ban cheap rubbish because imported cheap rubbish destroys your economy, Think about it if you spend $300.00 and buy a top quality angle grinder that lasts 20 years of Home use or 10 years in a shop you have outlayed $300 once in maybe at worst 10 years sending money overseas for an import, adding to the Nations Debt and driving up the cost of money at home. But buy a cheap $39.95 Ching Wing Special that lasts maybe 12 months at best and the shop user ends up spending almost $400 bucks and the home user may be lucky if that's all it costs them, Plus it screws the balance of payments and cost's people their Job, Those very people may be Your Customers at Work keeping You Employed!! ' Meanwhile the people making the quality products are out of a Job and the poor suckers being treated like slave labor don't make much anyway but hopefully can at least afford to put a roof over their heads and eat, Not so for many in the Western World. But look beyond just your Politicians and Business leaders and think about this Most of this Off-shoring of Jobs comes via United nations BS Politicians sign up for, The UN general assembly where much of this rubbish comes from runs on Democratic Principle of majority Rules when Votes are counted, So Count how many Islamic nations there are and Third World Dictators and other Failed Nations with their hands out for "Aid" then work out how many First World nations there are and then you will know why anything out of the UN is designed to Screw You over, The Third World Voted for It and You were either Outvoted or Sold Down the River by Corrupt Bureaucrats and Politicians. Are the average Americans aware of just how much Money the US hands over to the UN every year, Not just the State Department But Agriculture and a host of other Departments you may think are only concerned with Internal Stuff all are handing over hundreds of Millions of Your Dollars to nothing more than a Bunch of Crooks and scammers. Our Government is No different in t selling us out as well regardless of what side of politics they profess to be from. That Good people is why Tools are Rubbish in many cases these days and you should never buy Cheap Junk it may cost you your Job and Home or possibly Family relationships all are interconnected , So never let a Good Quality Tool no mater How old escape your clutches and if you can Buy Quality made in a First World nation if not your Own.

Oils firstly the first figure is basically the oil viscosity when Cold. Too high a number and the starter will work too hard turning the engine over. The second figure is basically the oil viscosity when at running temperature, The reason there are variations relate to the ambient temperature as Loyal said in a hotter climate the oil gets thinner so you go to say a 20 W 50 for places like Australia or Honduras or probably Florida or Texas I would use a 20W50 for an EA 81 oe EA 82. Later engines need lighter Oils because the ring packs are Low Tension compared to an EA 81 or EA 82 Engine all in a quest for lower friction and that ball Important Fuel Consumption Sticker on the Windscreen, The Low Tension Oil and Compression Rings in later Subaru's are what has landed them a Lawsuit in Jersey, Excess Oil Consumption. Excess Oil Consumption is a much more common problem on any Late Model Engine with Low Tension Ring packs, especially if people baby the engine when new. Low Tension Oil rings and taking it easy running in a new late model motor WILL result in OIl consumption issues and low power due to the fact the Rings will not have bedded in to give a good seal and compression at factory spec, Conversly after running it in Hard it will use far less Oil and make more power. The only thing that needs a conventional bedding in procedure are the plain bearings at the Crankshaft and that will only take about 100 Miles to get a good working surface on the bearings, After that do not lug it do not rev it to redline but most importantly load it up say third gear full throttle from 40 to 80 mph and let the temperature stabilize after doing that a few times then repeat and after a couple of Hours the rings will be bedded nicely to the bore. I do it all the time at Work Running in Engines for race-bikes as well as any number of Bigger sports bikes increasingly for customers.(Ever Tried to load up something like a S1000RR BMW on the road), 180 HP Plus and no weight makes them very hard to load up effectively to really bed the rings in so that plus Licence Retention is why we are running in more and more Big Sports Bikes for Customers.

Do you know the Injectors are flowing at the factory spec, I just posted another reply where somebody has issues with running poorly after replacing injectors and suggested maybe the aftermarket injectors have too high a flow rating compared to stock. Factory ECU will open the injectors a set time period based on look up tables for load revs and throttle position as well as Air Temp and Water Temp these settings are fixed and related to Injectors that flow a specified ammount of fuel per Milisecond, If however they have been replaced by aftermarket ones that flow more fuel per Milisecond than factory ones it will run rich and use more fuel. that could be a place to start looking, a quick search should find somebody local who can flow test your Injectors to make sure they are flowing correctly and more importantly to factory specifications.

Pull the Injectors and have somebody flow test them and chack they are nor dribbling fuel my guess is dud new injectors or are they Reconditioned ones. Injectors are generally pretty reliable but there are exceptions, have you narrowed it down to any particular cylinder running too rich or are they all too rich in which case maybe the flow rating of the injectors is wrong. Too high a flow rating will mean the injectors are switched on for a set time goverened by the ECU but because the flow rating may not match factory injectors it can end up either supplying too much fuel or not enough if the injedctors are to low a flow rating compared to stock. I think you may well find the injectors supplied are too high a flow rating, aftermarket parts can foul you up like that sometimes.

This is one of the definite guides for Honing Cylinders, I always start out with a normal Sunnen type stone hone with three stones to make sure there are no hollows or high points, Flex Hones or ball Hones will follow the worn cylinder points so while it looks good it may not measure up so nice. I do however use the Flex Hone for finishing as it gives you the ability to Plateau Hone for longer bore life, If you do not know what Plateau Honing is just look at this link for more detail on the whys and wherefores of Honing Engines correctly. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2000/09/cylinder-bore-surface-finishes/

Vaacum guages are great tools, Mine however is somewhat exotic it initially saw service in the cockpit of a WW2 P400 Aircobra in the South Pacific brilliant bit of gear for diagnosis work though and even a cheapy is worth the effort they will save you countless hours when diagnosing problems.

Analog Meters, the best are AVO, Simpson 260, Triplett and the Japanese made Hioki are all OK, Just be aware of Chinese fakes. An Analog Meter is a must in my opinion along with a Peak Voltage Adaptor or Peak Voltage Meter, Once you have used one of these you will wonder why you never had one before. A Google search will also show you how you can make a PVM yourself it is not that hard but when trying to diagnose Electronics and Hall sensors etc unless you have an Oscilloscope or a Fluke Scopemeter these are the next best thing. It is surprising how unreliable testing by reading Ohms alone can be especially on such things as Pulsar Coils and Source Coils. A Peak Volt meter will tell you for sure if that component really is OK or Not.They work by having capacitors and internally so the transient voltages which last miliseconds and are unreadable with anything short of an Oscilloscope are stored in the capacitor and then read as DC Voltage on your meter, Remember these voltages are initially AC Voltage either Sine or square wave and the voltage output is critical for the input into say the Ignitor for the system to work properly. Even on Carburetted engines with an Electroniuc Ignition problems with the Ignition can seem to be Fuel related but in truth are more often spark quality related. Poor spark can show up as being too rich when in truth the real problem is poor burning of the mixture because the Ignition is not up to scratch, Especially so on older Cars and Bikes. http://www.amazon.com/Peak-Reading-DVA-Voltage-Adapter/dp/B001O4TZGG http://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/direct-voltage-adapter.30360/

I should say Curse you because I had not looked at Nico's thread for a While and I just lost about two hours of my life, But boy is that mostly looking good ( Not real keen on Big FMIC's though)

Well at least up at Wamberal, Cardiff is not that far away and there is a good early Subaru wreckers there, You will need him as that Old Four Speed will; grenade quick smart if you use the new power too much,Do not forget these things run in Front Wheel Drive on the road, an AWD conversion makes them useable or with the right Gearbox they respond nicely to locking the Box in Four Wheel Drive and modding the front driveshafts and running them in Rear Wheel drive. The Difference in handling and steering when converted to RWD is amazing as is the conversion to AWD when it comes to getting off the line uphill on Wet Roads and that is with the EA 81 engines, With an EJ an AWD is almost mandatory or or a Block of Timber under the accelerator pedal.. Live with the four speed but plan on doing a Low range AWD conversion or drive appropriately and run an L wagon 5 speed and bigger wheels tyres, Lots of Luck getting decent off road 14 inch tyres in Aus these days though, Road one's worth fitting are hard enough to source.

Obviously as used car has said combustion chamber cleaner fixed the issue so therefore what would have been happening is carbon buildup has caused the rings to stick most likely the compression rings which then pressurizers the sump so it pumps the oil past the rings and into the cylinder where it burns the oil and fouls plugs eventually. And yes that will also clog up the Crankcase breather valves, PCV valves will; sometimes cause this issue but with a flat four never forget they are more prone to Oil sitting around the pistons and turning to Varnish and then sticking the rings with all the blow by and issues that come with that. When it comes to blocked PCV valves and the symptoms of a Blown Motor one cannot go past the Rover V* in the Range Rover for that problem, Way too small a PCV circuit on them which clogs up real easy., Subaru's not so bad in that department.