coxy

Support the actual bearing on it's outer edges between the jaws of a vice find an appropriate sized socket that fits the throwout bearing holder and then tap the holder out of the bearing, The socket will transfer all the force evenly so as to not damage the bearing holder. Obviously a socket that fits inside of the new bearing will drive out the holder from the bearing and if you do not want to damage the socket put a piece of timber on top of the socket and hit that with a hammer. If you do not have a vice then you can support the outer race of the bearing on a couple of pieces of timber.

Cookie Monster some electric pumps do actually pull fuel such as early MY series factory pumps that live under the Hood.

Gee they really need to make you Guys work for your discounts like they do In Australia. We had one yard that was a Fifty Bucks for all you can carry day and Boy when you see somebody physically carrying a 351 Cleveland complete over the required fifty feet to qualify for the price that is impressive .Mind you he was a pretty Big Ex New Zealand Maori and those boys are not small. All you can carry also means One Person not say two holding a Hood covered with goodies. Guess this means it might be quiet this weekend on here as well as all will be at the sale fest.

307 chevy in a Early 70's Nissan patrol ran a rod bearing, Sump off and a Hose clamp around the rod bearings to hold some oil pressure and used water to swell up a piece of timber to hold the rod and piston up the bore out of the way and simply removed the offending pushrods so the valves would not hit the piston wedged all the way at Top dead centre. did the job for 600 miles to home. Sort of fits with my nickname when servicing for mates in rallies when I managed to find a replacement Engine mount for a Datsun 180B (610 in the US) after it broke a mount during an event in the middle of the forest,I had noticed a derelict datsun in the bush a couple of miles back and simply said back in ten and returned with a fresh Engine mount, They started calling me McGuyver after that, never did let them know just how I found an Engine mount in the middle of the Forest, Best sometimes to keep them guessing.

Needs a carby Service and re kit to bring all back to a fresh standard I suspect things like wear on the needle and seat in the float bowl will over time raise the float level making it run rich so address the carby, It may just need some fine tuning with an exhaust sniffer to clean up it's act

Should not be an Issue at least for the bottom end,The MPFI engine differs only in two significant areas , MPFI and Higher Compression. After a number of years in the real world compression changes with the wear and tear affecting volumetric efficiency so that does not really matter and the Manifolds however will be different as the carb model heads are single inlet port and the MPFI heads are dual port like the Turbos. That is why the Single point Injection can be retrofitted to the EA81 but the MPFI heads are like the Turbo EA82 and have dual inlet ports so Carb manifolds will not fit therefore the heads are different and must be swapped out to use a carb engine in that application or find a carb manifoild and muck around with the ignition and remove the MPFI wiring, That woulkd be harder and more time consuming than mating a good bottoim end with serviced MPFI heads, Your call as to the cost benefit ratio but the Bottom end will work.

Jono the EA 81 did have a 4wd 5 speed but only in the rare RX MY series models with the so called EA81S twin carb engines, Possum used to love that RX coupe more than any other rally car he drove especially as it was a dual range setup but only like the RX turbo with a relatively small low range reduction unlike the wagons. That gearbox with so many ratios to choose from and an engine that revved to the moon must have been a revelation when everything else was still RWD or FWD or a Hell Expensive Works Quattro. The Subaru RX was well before the more common Mazda or Ford TX3 being just a rebadged GTR or GTX Familia 4WD Turbo. Therefore driving an RX Subaru in the early eighties was a big advantage over everybody else when it was wet and slippery.

All you are doing in reality is building an RX turbo so all the answers are there in the RX model to solve any problems

Almost forgot the real reason I came here to Post, New LED driving lights great close up lighting and reasonable distance but not as great a distance as the Cibies I took off so I will remount the Cibies and have four lights on the front by the end of the weekend. So the best of both worlds. Only one problem BMW has just come up with Lazer Headlights so we are all back to square one just when we were getting used to HID and LED lighting they come up with a new one. http://jalopnik.com/how-bmws-new-laser-headlights-will-work-and-not-kill-y-1521586271

"Trader" I like that not a Traitor but a Trader as in Trade in the old for the new even if it is the Ricers Choice Still Honda's are OK but sadly only Subaru are left when it comes to making Cars in Japan even Honda now make some models offshore and the States for some time I do believe also and they are not always as good as made in Japan. Here in Australia Suzuki make the new model swift in Thailand but the Sport model still made in Japan and one example of the difference is the Thai made Swifts are rapidly developing a reputation for rusting out the bottom of the doors in 12 months. Hope your Honda is made in Japan or at least in America and hence employing Fellow Americans.

Any engine be it Toothed Belt or cam chain as the belt stretches or the Cam Chain stretches the cam timing retards and they lose bottom end power but rev out more on top end, This is why some manufacturers like Nissan-Datsun with the L series motors had three optional locations on the cam sprocket the adjust the timing but the amount was about three degrees so in total they had a maximum of six degrees to play with that should be a good guideline as to how much you can play without going backwards In Power Output.

The problem we had with that fuel in Australia is the same lack of places to get it especially in the Bush (Country or backwoods), But another issue we came across is they lowered the octane rating of propane fuel in Australia. I used to build a number of mainly V8 engines for LPG as we call it here (Liquefied Petroleum Gas) as many people tried to beat the high cost of Petrol (Gasoline) or used a loophole in modified vehicle compliance whereby any vehicle running on LPG was exempt from emissions requirements testing but then they lowered the octane rating of LPG because that required less expensive refining processes. Where this became a problem was because the BTU (British Thermal Units) or energy content of the fuel was less we used to raise the compression ratio about 10% to maintain the same power output as on petrol, So you see where lowering the octane rating suddenly became a problem on earlier built engines. Nissan in Australia made what we called a 200 B in other places known as a Bluebird etc ( Nissan 810 model) and to get rid of the last of the model did a factory LPG model these had a small chamber U67 head casting the normal ones had a 62cc chamber these had the same chambers as a ^!0 with the A87 casting with about a 52cc chamber all to make sure the engines performed to the same level as the normal petrol models. These heads became very sought after for Rally 510's (1600's out here) as well as the factory hardened rocker arms these engines were also fitted with as they basically became a replacement for the original big port SSS cylinder heads but with better rocker arms as a bonus. So LPG or propane fuel can be good but needs an appropriate engine build to suit a few issues Propane engines run hotter are less thermally efficient but can handle more ignition advance in some cases less in others, they also require some form of permanent upper cylinder lubricant system or they will wear out valve guides as Propane fuel is a "Dry" fuel having no lubricating properties, It also wears out throttle shafts for that reason, So some research will soon uncover LPG or Propane lubrication systems for such a conversion if done properly something few seem aware of. Something on Youtube for the lubrication of propane or LPG converted engines to be aware of.

Will take some today and figure out how to upload them on the site.

Most Bolts in Japanese Engine break because of Corrosion, When you break a bolt when undoing it unless some rock ape has been there before what generally is the cause is that the Engine was assembled in a high humidity environment and the trapped moisture and air due to the use of fast acting air tools on the assembly line allows corrosion to occurr with the result of bolt breakage at times when attempting to undo them. Come across it all to often and figured out why after talking to some factory engineers when I worked for Kawasaki Motors As for Cork gaskets they are OK if you use the following technique I always seal cork gaskets on one side only with a non setting sealant such as Hematite (The Blue Goop) then torque to manufacturers spec but make sure to use Loctite Nut locking compound that way they do not losen and I have sealed successfully plenty of straight six XK Jag motors with that method and they do not leak. Another tip I use was developed from working on Kawasaki KZ 900 and 1000 motors and Suzuki GS models these uses an expensive white hard type material that would always tear when removing them and at something approaching $40.00 aud for some models it got rather expensive doing valve checks, So I took a leaf out of Kawasaki's book with the later GpZ variants that had a Graphite type finish on the gasket that allowed multiple reuse. Any gasket that could be reused I coat with Molybdenum Di Sulfide Grease the same stuff used in CV joints, When the engine first heats up there may be some mess as the excess grease melts but when later removing the valve cover the gasket has what looks like an impregnated coating of Graphite on it and comes away clean with no tearing allowing it to be reused a few times. Silicone type sealants often allow a gasket to move and tear so I never use them if I can help it on Gaskets, If a gasket requires the use of a sealant then use something from Three bond as used by all Japanese manufacturers it will seal but the gasket will not slip under tightening torque and break.

Mine seem to be original RX as a complete engine with carbs manifold and even Air filter assembly but the divider is actually in the exhaust ports not the intake, The valves are reversed etc so I do not think there would be two versions of this engine Should take some photos and upload them as I have the heads off at the moment.

I would be careful about using any type of Silicon sealant as Gas usually dissolves silicon sealants and it may end up where you do not want it, Some research will soon uncover what type of sealant is available in your country that is fuel proof. It is important just research the right material spec for fuel proof components, Even "O" Rings need to be of the right material to use in carburetors and the same thinking applies to any part of a fuel system, Fuel leaks do cause fires never forget that aspect. Almost forgot Ethanol Fuels present yet another problem so if using such a fuel research ethanol proof everything from Fuel lines to "O" Rings and even gaskets, many people have had issues where ethanol has been mandated and they can no longer source ethanol free fuels, For instance early Spanish Dirt Bikes used fiberglass Fuel tanks and Ethanol type fuels eat away the resin of the tanks fiberglass, It has also been well documented that it eats many of the earlier Fuel tank lining materials the Industry that sells Fuel tank sealants has had to evolve new materials to suit ethanol type fuels so be aware.

The Oil pump issue is they actually suck air in through the seal behind the Crank Pulley and that also aerates the oil so check and replace the crank front seal every time you do timing belts.This type of issue is obvious when you have the TOD and it goes away after a short time running. When you find wear on front pulleys that will allow air leaks or conversely oil leaks you can either use a speedy sleeve to repair or pop the spring out of the new seal (try first to work out how it works with the spring of an old seal) and unscrew the ends then cut the female end (Flat) to shorten the spring up and apply more tension to the seal lip. Usually you need to shorten these springs by about 2~3 mm, You will find one end of the spring is tapered to screw into the other end which has a flat cut finish. Hold the seal spring up to a light and slightly pull it apart and you will see where the join is then simply twist the two halves of the spring to unscrew it. This method works in all kinds of places where there is wear where the seal runs on a collar to restore tension on the seal lip that is now trying to seal on a smaller diameter due to wear on the collar

Make sure all the earth points are good as any sensor also needs a complete circuit to read right, Sometimes with CTS it is just a bad earth due to corrosion needing cleaning up other times a general earth problem not a bad unit so always chech the earth side of anything after all it requires both earth and power to operate correctly to work as designed.

Better that effort than the rust that will surely result if not fixed properly

I think you will find from that era trim clips were all nylon the abs revolution started in the early nineties along with that hell to remove (Like as in an angle grinder) Sikaflex they use these days to even glue replacement body panels on with.

Best way to clean up and old gasket surface is to use an Oil stone, most other methods either do not get things flat or gouge the aluminium, Just keep a pocket Oil stone in new of as new shape handy for the job and do not use it for anything else.

Disco has been playing with ethanol in his skyline and with all the different ratio mixes has found that around 25%~30% Ethanol mix gives the best results regarding Fuel consumption and power output being equal to or better than straight 98 Octane super fuel, He does keep hinting that another Subaru this time an Impressa RS may become his next daily as both the Evo 6 and the Skyline are not ideal cars to run as a daily so he may reapear here one day soon but in another subforum compared to Ellie the RX Build. LPG does have massive advantages when it comes to engine internal cleanliness though as superchargedlpgbrumby has noted.

Anybody ever come across a Vortex with a rear window spoiler at the top of the rear window, I saw one today but was driving so was not able to get a photo, have looked and could not find anything on such an accessory, Sure did look neat though it was horizontal and about maybe 6 inches in length.

Probably the lube in the tach itself is getting old and thick that is why it more than likely plays up when it gets colder, more common issue than people realise I have a mate that is a trained Scientific Instrument maker who has been an Auto, Marine and specialist Instrument repairer for thirty years including Artillery laying instruments and he says that scenario is quite common on older instruments.

dont forget when it comes to five speeds behind an EA 81 the real issue is the sleeve the throwout bearing slides on is bigger in the five speed requiring some ingenuity such as an Isuzu Trooper or some nissan throwout bearing the problem being the two clutch pressure plates differ in one very important aspect the centre hole size of the diaphragm spring is different, That means you really need to match all the components or machine an EA 81 flywheel to suit a full EA82 clutch assembly including the throwout bearing and carrier they do not interchange end of story.