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Sealed bearings with the rubber type seal are pretty much standard fare on most live axle rear ends so why not use what works with extra grease packed in as usual will guarantee no failure due to water ingress. By the Way BMW Motorcycles eventually solved their gearbox issues with some models such as the 1100 GS adventure style bike by going to what they referred to as a "Clean bearing style gearbox version". What that actually meant in reality was all the gearbox bearings that are usually open to the oil supply in the gearbox are replaced with Rubber sealed on both sides grease packed bearings from the factory, This means that any of the hardening that may flake off gears etc cannot enter into the bearing tracks where hardened metal will damage the bearing leading to much improved bearing life and therefore better gearbox shaft alignment and longer Gear life as well. So when it comes to bearings think about the application and go from there as Sealed bearings with rubber or neoprene type seals are better then either open bearings or steel shielded bearings as they are more capable of keeping metallic foreign objects out of the critical Ball and Groove section of the bearing. Other things to note the above bearings listed note C3 this means the Radial Clearance and is quite common for Automotive type applications as when a bearing is fitted it is usually an interference fit that compresses however minutely the outer housing and often expands the inner housing when fitted to a shaft as an interference fit also, This will then pre load the cases both inner and outer of the bearing reducing the radial clearance, That is why they specify such clerances as C1 and up with the bigger numbers such as C3 denoting more radial clearance. Radial clearance being if it was too much you could move the inner section of the bearing up and down in relation to the outer or side to side that is radial clearance and it is also needed as when the bearing reaches operating temperature the different parts also expand reducing further the running clearance.

Or you could go direct in the USA and order them from the manufacturer. http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/products/constant-velocity-joints

Gee my Brumby (Brat) has been rebooted a couple of times and repacked with good CV specific grease but these original Subaru CV joints have dome over 400,000 KM and are still good. Here in Australia being a mechanic I also know who to order from to get replacement CV joints from that are sourced from the Original Japanese suppliers, So should I ever need a CV joint I can get the same spec from the Otiginal supplier to Subaru and rebuild the axle. Inners are held on with circlips and are easy to swap and outers simply require moving the CV to one side to expose the flat section of the inner spider and a good strong blow with a copper hammer maybe five or six times at worst always pops them off for me as they are just a circlip internally that requires some effort to compress into the groove to allow the joint to move off the axle. Rebuilding axles and mixing and matching is no big deal, just use good CV specific grease preferable synthetic stuff and use genuine Subaru boots, It really sucks you guys cannot get CV joints in the USA, Maybe you need to do a group buy of quality ones from overseas. PDF catalog available on the homepage for download, Been using then for years in the trade with no drams at all. http://turnerdriveshafts.com/site/

Injectors are likely gummed up with varnish, a good ultrasonic clean needed there I do believe.

See this topic the FPCU seems simple enough just resistors a ceramic one as well (White long rectangular part) plus capacitors and a circuit board type actual relay that will have points in it, Nothing that cannot be repaired after a trip to an electronics supply house and some time with a soldering iron. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143962-85-brat-quit-not-starting/

Good work way to go guys, And to answer an earlier post the twin carby factory engines use the same air filter as the single carby models

Replaced the clutch, used a secondhand one as I have yet to get together all the bits to put the five speed in, Pulled the motor only to find that the failure was because the throwout bearing had seized and broken the fingers off the diaphragm spring. Had to drive it starting off in gear from the lights and change up and down with a clutch that would not disengage for four days going to work, Interesting times indeed, good thing I rif=de Motorcycles and know how to change gear without a clutch both up and down. Pulled it and found virtually no measurable wear on the original clutch plate after six years of ownership so I put the original clutch plate back in as it was still perfecy no loose springs or wear or glazing on the friction surface. Subaru's are unstoppable.

Try to find some webers from an Alfa Romeo Alfasud Sprint, The Coupe they came with a nice compact set of IDF type webers dual downdraft equal size throttle bodies 32 mm from memory so should be a perfect conversion carb setup. They are quite compact so should do the job nicely, Just have to make up some manifolds and for a one off I would make them out of steel. Search google images for Alfasud Sprint Webers and you will find them.

Firstly has the engine been stripped, A spun bearing means the bearing has rotated in either the connecting rod or cases and the locating tags have not stayed where the notches are. In the case of connecting rods and crankcases the bearing are located by a 'crush fit" meaning the bearing outer diameter is slightly bigger when fitted to say the connecting rod than the inner diameter of the assembled connecting rod thereby clamping the bearing so it does not rotate or spin with the excess friction induced by the differing diameters, The notched part and the tag on the bearing shells do not stop bearings from spinning remember that. The notches and the matching protrusion on the bearings are simply for locating not to stop a bearing 'Spinning' as people think. I doubt your bearings have actually spun, but have more likely failed due to lack of oil pressure or flow through the passages in the crankshaft and or block. Cleanliness is vital as is unobstructed flow and pre lube when assembled with assembly lube, Blueprinting is the art of making sure all measurements and clearances are correct to factory specifications if all of the above are followed and good quality parts are used by an experienced technician failure is not an option. These parts are all metal therefore they cannot think and therefore they cannot fail. All failures are Human related, someone did not either design , manufacture, maintain or use the metal components correctly as metal cannot think and therefore it cannot fail, same goes for the oils and coolants used, can't think can't stuff up remember that all failures have a human in the chain of failure somewhere who is ultimately responsible for that so called Mechanical failure

Here is my Bible when it comes to wiring, CASA are even tougher than their American counterparts and the section (17 from memory) on aged wiring is very useful reading. This links to a roughly 18 Meg pdf you can save for future reference, Yes it is Aircraft spec but if you want to really know what works and what fails and how to prevent it the guys that cannot just pull to the side of the trail when something goes wrong are the standard bearers end of story. http://www.casa.gov.au/wcmswr/_assets/main/rules/1998casr/021/021c99.pdf

Some feedback from Gannon the originator of the crossbred brake conversion as a heads up for any L series conversion using the center bearing L series prop shaft, Apparently there is a Mazda mount that works very well for the job of mounting the center bearing requiring only some reinforcing plating of the floor area inside the vehicle to give a factory fitted look when done. Unfortunately he cannot remember which model it was found in but a quick look around a pick and pull would likely find what looks right and lines up with the Subaru mounting holes.

Just a thought Jono on ausubaru has had great success with using EA82 headers on EA81 models as the larger diameter seems to help with both torque and free revving with the better breathing. Your EA engine build with higher comp would likely benefit as well with the better breathing allowing the engine to run cooler as well.I seem to remember your concern on oil temps so hope this heads up is of use to you your Build is great and anything that could improve it like that would just ice the cake even more.

Great work, One of the better write ups on the net and the Subaru Community generally does better than most. Possibly something to do with the high mileage abilities and reliability of Subaru's that brings a response of both brand loyalty and the extra effort over and above what people put into most brands because the cars reward the effort. Your work is of a very professional standard, but for one thing I do question the Centre bearing mount for the propeller shaft, How is that working out, It seems to me considering your efforts that may have been just a temporary setup till you were certain of the required position and height. The best I have seen in that regard was the job done by the boys on ausubaru under the following link. http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12696

Regarding the Clutch cable and Clutch pedal arm mods all of that is required because of Right hand drive where all the controls are where an American passenger sit's. When a standard clutch cable runs from the left hand side of the vehicle looking back from in front of the vehicle then it all becomes obvious why the standard cable will not work in the UK or Australia where we are R/H drive vehicles, Hence the confusion.

When checking vehicle electrics look for good mechanical connections as well as good electrical connections, you can for instance pull apart both sides of a multi plug connector and it all tests perfect electrically but when connected find that for instance the female side of the connector does not contact properly with the male pin from the mating connector in a mechanical fashion so the actual electrical connection will then be very poor or worse intermittent.

Do some research many Silicons are Acid Cure and you can smell it when you use them these can and do cause rust, What you want is known as Neutral Cure Silicon as it is not acid based curing system, It is also what you must use for sealing electrical connections for waterproofing to avoid corrosion issues, They even make what is known as Flowable Silicon for sealing Electrical components.

These guys in Australia make them for pretty much anything even many American classics and old English cars, We also have guys out here that still make venetian blinds (metal) for side and rear windows. http://hywaysunvisors.rtrk.com.au/?scid=37308&kw=4415726&pub_cr_id=25604616627 This is the link to their model listing and they even list the early pre 77 models, The L series wagon sedan is listed. These are the venetian blinds for cars very cool old school, did not anyone in the States make these. http://www.autoshades.com.au/

Led Bulbs are "Light Emitting Diodes" so just like diodes in an alternator they are basically a one way gate and emitter allowing voltage to flow in one direction while blocking it in the opposite direction that is why they are polarity sensitive. As for the dash operations there should be a voltage regulator somewhere on the back of the circuit board see if that is blown.

Building this style of tranny with an RX Full Time as a basis is covered very well on AuSubaru Board with plenty of Pics as well.

Pull the sender and make sure the contact is making a Good connection as it sweeps over the rheostat section, Often simply bending the contactor arm will fix things by making a decent contact once more they are a simple mechanical system when all said and done no electronics involved so an eyeball will show you what is needed to hopefully fix the issue.

Balance issues will also often be more noticeable when there is some wear in things like Ball joints, Racks and rack ends so check those as well, Especially if the problem gets worse when braking.

Doesn't have a Cat does it as the symptoms are similar when they begin to block up or collapse inside.Most likely an Electrical fault but remember the old but true adage most Carburettor problems are in fact Ignition. I concur with not driving a Prius when floods are around the Voltages involved and Amps would not be a pretty result when subjected to excessive Water, Your Subaru will not try to Electrocute you unlike the Prius.

Especially when older Connectors with poor mechanical or Electrical connections as well as Earth connections are responsible for the majority of so called ECU issues. Self Diagnosis and operation of any Electrical or Electronic control system relies on signals operating within set voltage levels,Corrosion and poor Earth's resulting in Voltage drops will trigger fault codes and poor running. We also have to contend with bad connectivity on the actual circuit boards known as a Dry joint when soldered, then of course components themselves can fail as an assembly or simply something like a Diode, Resistor or other Electronic part within the Module itself. All Diagnosis rely's on testing for either Bad or non existent Earth's and correct voltage supply or outputs. Hence why some of the more clued up board members correctly state did the problem occur after you did something that may have disturbed the status of the System ,It does not even have to be something you did but can be as simple as some wires you disturbed in the process of doing something else. Get a Multi Meter and learn how to check not just Voltages but using the Ohm Meter aspect of the Meter as well as that is how you measure resistance,As an example any length of wire should read no more than 1/2 an Ohm resistance for trouble free operation. Simple checking requires connecting the Positive and Negative connectors of the Meter when set to the Ohm Meter range and reading any length of wiring or connector for resistance readings, Many Components are also checked with the Ohm meter such as Air temp and Water Temp Sensors, Ignition Coils and Pickup Coils, Injectors etc so a Multi Meter is a cheap and vital part of any self maintenance Owners Tool kit.

Hey very easy conversion to drop an L series engine in with a 610 front cross-member as the B210 was also sold as a PB210 in Japan this one was like mine the ex Sheka Mehta works Datsun PB210 they are talking about in the link. Search on the topic of L series into 120Y or B210 and you will find all the information you need using mostly stock Nissan parts, there is a dedicated section on Datsun1200.com for B210's and most members are from either Australia or the US they are a fun toy when done well. http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=1921