zedhead

Around 350-400 rpms in park

I just got done with a Head Rebuild, both heads had the valves ground, surface shaved, valve lash set. New OEM HG's. New timing belt, idlers, water pump. But this problem was occurring before the head work. And continues after. I was hoping the head rebuild would have cured the problem, but..

Been fighting a low idle speed for a while. 1998 LOBW- Engine warm, it idles at 2-300 rpm in gear, foot on brake. I've cleaned the IAC, new TPS set to .5v throttle closed. I need to clean the TB, But, I doubt that will give 400 RPM idle speed. Any idea's??

The conditioner will do nothing if the gaskets are leaking. More than likely they are. As a matter of fact, the conditioner is really a stop leak. Not like Bars, or similar. Most, if not all new engines are treated with some type of stop leak from the factory. It's cheap insurance for the manufacturers. They need to keep the coolant level IN THE RADIATOR full. Just filling the expansion tank won't cut it. They could make it home if they keep the rad full. But a HG job is in Their imediate future.

Double check the belt by COUNTING the teeth between the pulleys. Ya never know, it could be marked wrong.

It's either a Diode, or a fusible link. Hook the wire to the battery, with the car running, and measure the output side with a MM. If it's a stable 12 V then it'd be a Diode. If it's 13-14 V Fusible Link

What Year engine? The Phase 1's have a complicated valve lash adjustment procedure. I'd think most peeps would opt not to even attempt it.

It sound like You have a combination of problems. First: the O2 sensor bung. Second: the O2 sensor wiring. If the O2 sensor bung came out. You need to get it sealed. They are normally welded to the pipe. O2 sensors are VERY sensitive devices. Very sensitive to resistance. Any added resistance can knock the sensor out of its acceptable operating range. If the wiring is compromised. It could very well be adding resistance, and be causing Your problem.

Qoute: "What is the best year outback? 97??? " 2008 H6 LL Bean Edition!

If You shop around, You can get both sets (f&R) for around $140. They'll out last the Axis pads so You'll be changing them less often. So in the long run, Your paying $20-30 more for the Hawk pads

Personally, I've never had good luck with after market O2 sensors. Have You tried replacing the secondary O2 sensor? It tells the ECU if the cats are operating efficiently. IC that You have changed both sensors. Some guys have had good luck running these, when a free flow, or catless exhaust is installed http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/1387-o2-sensor-modification-using-spark-plug-non-foulers.html http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5468

Most of the HG repair cost is the Tbelt and related parts. The HG's are only about $60. Inspection is about the same price. If it were Me, I'd pull the motor and do the HG's now.

Are You guys chasing the threads with a tap before installing the head bolts?

With the mileage on Your engine, I'd say that 3-4 MPG drop in the winter is prolly about right. It's a combination of many variables that is eating up Your fuel economy. Prolly the biggest culprit is the very poor performing fuel that We are forced to burn in the USA. Not only does the Ethanol content go up in the winter mo's, but they add other performance robbing chemmies also. Can You elaborate on the "exhaust seeming loud at times"?

It IS a tell tale sign. There's a difference between radiator sealers, additives,etc, and the oily mess that phase 1 EJ25's deposit inside the reservoir. Also, if the car has seen any kind of decent maintainence, there should be nothing but clean coolant in the reservoir. Another tell tale sign is if the gunk smells like fuel/exhaust. Cold starts will allow the unburned fuel/exhaust gasses into the coolant. So, Smell the gunk!

Try a set of Hawk HPS. You won't go back to anything else. Low Dust, Great Braking, and Long Life.

If the overflow tank is all gunked up, it's a telltale sign of head gasket failure. You can do a coolant pressure test to confirm that the pressure is over 10 psi. Also, the Exhaust test kits will tell You if exhaust gasses are present in the coolant