tractor pole

it sounds like the bearings are incorrect. measure the ID of the new bearing and the old ones to confirm. Ben

for the die grinders and air hammers I just bought them from harbor freight, cheap around $30 and they work well. I mainly purchased them because the air supply in the shop I used to work at was very unpredictable (once a day in the summer we would have to drain the water from the tank, and oil the tools twice a day at least. impacts and air ratchets I went with IR, never had a problem. Harbor freight can yield a bad tool every once in a while, had to pull a die grinder apart and fix it once before it would work, but after that it worked fine.

I am in the same boat, I really like the wheel choices with a 4x114.3, I personally don't want to put big 6 lug wheels or pug wheels on my wagon, but if I was to lift it they would be my first choice. might have to dig up a scrap hub and see if I can drill up that bolt pattern and make it work. I think the problem is having a flat spot for the stud to mate up to, noting an endmill and bridgeport couldn't take care of.

bored at work today, thanks for the inspiration. just a couple sharpies and a highlighter.

broken front brake hardware clips, at least that is what was making noise on mine.

:slobber::slobber: I really like that bumper. did you build it?

Friend of mine has a megasquirt setup in his 86 Gti with a 1.8t (I know... Boooooo!!) but after the tuning and some extra dyno tuning, makes great power (about 195hp fwhp) and reliable, no messing around with stock fuel injection, laptop tuning, data logging, etc. great setup, I was thinking if I ever built a turbo motor for my wagon that would be the way to go.

cool thanks, now I have to figure out what is wrong with this thing. that guy's posts didn't make any sense to me.

I have a 91 Loyale wagon, whenever I loosen the fuel cap there is a vacuum being relieved from the fuel tank. I replaced the fuel cap, after searching the forums all I could find is a post by a banned user. HERE any thoughts, are clogged vent lines common? the vent lines go to the charcoal canister correct? I am not sure if this is what is affecting drive ability (rough idle) its been like this since I bought it almost two years ago. any help is appreciated. thanks Ben

great thanks.

I am not quite sure how much they go for. I don't want to spend too much on them(like less than $50 US for the set), but if they are in good condition and can find a reasonable shipping rate I am willing to buy them. I am assuming that they would be coming from the Netherlands? If you could find some pics if he is interested in selling them.

I have tried Silverstar's, still not enough light for me... I am used to H4 80/100 or HID's. I have had HIDs in my truck for the last 5 years and I love them. The headlight housings are clean and un damaged, the reflector is in great shape. I might just get some HIDs for the wagon if I can't get my hands on some H4 housings.

Cool, that's what I thought.

I found your post here it looks like the picture links are not working anymore. Do you have any pictures and info on where you purchased the lights? I have family(in-laws) in Germany and I think I could get them to ship them to me if the parts are available. thanks Ben

installed Lamin-x on side marker lights, still have to finish headlights.

OK so I searched the forum and as the title says I am looking for a set of headlights for my 91 Loyale that run H4 bulbs instead of the 9004 bulb it has now. As many if you know, H4 wattage selection is much better for higher wattage bulbs. Living out in the sticks and driving a lot at night I feel better if I can see. I know that there some members here are from countries that drive on the right side of road in Europe and elsewhere. I am not sure if these were made or not just trying to feel it out. thanks in advance. Ben

I like it!!! I would like my wagon to have a similar look. I now will be in the market for a front lip for my wagon. What year/model did the front lip come from? good videos and great pictures.

replacing the mast is pretty easy. that being said, its easy as long as the drive cable hasn't broken inside the antenna unit. if it has you have to disassemble the antenna and remove the broken part of the drive cable, otherwise the new mast will not retract all the way and you run the risk of breaking the new drive cable. that site has install instructions as well http://www.antennamastsrus.com/Instructions%20Mast.htm Ben

Monroe WA Ben

recently: Front brakes; rotors pads, rebuilt pass caliper, hell of a time getting my hands on new caliper hardware kit(spring clips) and drivers side ball joint. no more squeaky brakes no death wobble at freeway speed when brakes applied. planned: no more noisy lifters and no more oil leaks oil pump timing belts h2o pump cam seals rocker cover gaskets

Sorry to here that... I will keep a look out in the Monroe area for you. does it have the same wheels as the one in the pic?

I will not be using any rty on the o-ring seal. that's why I was questioning it... didn't make sense. thanks for the input guys.

judging from the last two owners, I am friends with them, that is not likely. I have been fixing things here and there that they took short cuts on. already planned on replacing the cam seals and crank seal. dp you apply the red rtv to the mickey mouse o-ring?

thanks for the advice on the hose and o-ring wouldn't want that to go after I put it all back together.

thanks, after I posted that I thought that I would probably regret not replacing everything at once. good call on removing the timing cover I did that on a couple of vw rabbits I owned much easier to adjust the cam gear. ordering my parts shortly, just pulled some codes to see why the CEL has been staring me in the face for a couple days. it will be ready for driving daily soon, and I can give my truck a rest for a while.