tractor pole

Maybe this might explain my surge problem at idle... Thanks I will give it a try.

So after a long winter, the weather was great today and I decided to take the day off of work and get some stuff done on the car. runs great, cooling fan problem fixed, dealt with a leaky power steering reservoir the only thing I did not have time for was to wash it... I really forgot how fun this was to drive now. Pics to come... really this time.

After looking at the diagrams posted on the previous post, I will send you what I have. it will not let me up load .docx files so I will send you them in an email. I will include the Trouble Code trouble shooting guide for the ones you listed. Ben

check and see if you have continuity to the speakers, possibly a broken wire or faulty speaker. I am not sure of your electrical experience so forgive me if you already know this, use a Volt Ohm Meter set to ohms take stereo out and check the resistance of the speaker. it should be between 2ohm and 10 ohm (I think they are 8 ohm speakers if they are stock) If the wire is broken most likely it will be in the door jam. Ben

I would go over the work order and make sure that they did not charge you or your insurance for a new harness and simply "fix" it. as far as I know I don't think that you can buy just a connector from the dealer, but if you can find out brand/model/series connectors they use you could buy one from an online retailer like Mouser.com.

I bought a new oil pump and replaced it when I did the timing belts, after a spirited five minute drive the TOD was gone. many say that just the oil pump seal will do the trick but I was not interested in doing the work twice if it did not work the first time. TP

yes the door that changes the air direction is vacuum accuated. look on the passenger side of the engine compartment on the top portion of the firewall there should be a small white colored canister with a vacuum hose coming out of both ends that is the vacuum line that supplies the heater controls.the line will hook up to the intake manifold and pass through a firewall grommet. Hope that helps Ben

http://pbr1154.photobucket.com/albums/p537/tractorpole/DSC_0400.jpg http://pbr1154.photobucket.com/albums/p537/tractorpole/DSC_0401.jpg It fit very nice in my wagon. Like it was custom built for an ea chassis. PS sorry for the blurry pic and excuse the crappy welds on my mid pipe that was me...

ShawnW

I would assume since your wagon was not OBD-II originally, they would look for a CEL and do the tail pipe sniffer, and if it passed it wouldn't matter. However it is California and after hearing the nightmare that my brother had getting his Audi Coupe Quattro to pass smog I would only own an old car in CA... Good Luck! I am keeping an eye on this fuel temp and tank pressure issue as well, I would also like to have the check engine light off.

Looks good! I think it will look cool with those wheels and 50 series tires.

You most likely will not use the red wire, I would remove it. You will just be inviting future problems if it is left. not sure about the black plug, it appears to be a relay from the picture. no clue where or what its for off the top of my head.

cool! subscribed.

are you talking about the red wire with the spade connector on it? it looks like someone used that for a illumination lead for gauges or radio...

It looks as though the exhaust valve is burned and possibly the intake valve too. Most likely if there was an obstruction the valves would be bent and not broken.

All he can say is no... I'll pm you his info.

I second this! Haffo is the man. He did the windshield in my truck and my parents cars. Very knowledgeable very good work. Just another happy customer.

If the car is awd be aware that the angle drive (essentially center diff) assemblies are a dealer only item @$3500 and apparently non-servicable. If your gear set is good still there is a company on the east coast that will replace bearings and seals. Good luck

can't believe it's been 3 months... still no significant progress but I have been piling up some more parts hopefully I will be able to do something this weekend, like get it running again!

Think of it as protecting the switch you are using to turn the lights on and off. That way the bulk of the current passes through the relay instead of the switch.

you are looking for a 4 x 140mm lug pattern wheel, unfortunately Subaru and Peugeot were basicaclly the only options that you have in the states. do a search for Pug wheels, this has been covered many times. welcome to the forum

The axles are different in that the 88 has a cone washer and washer under a castellated axle nut. The 97 has a flanged nut that is held in place by peening over the top portion of the axle nut on the flat portion of the axle shaft. As far as compatibility unless your 88 has at least a 5 lug swap they will not work.

I like it!!

I also recommend sube101 for his work, I have one of his single port ej uel header on my loyale. the material and fabrication is 100% awesome! Ben

what year/model is the EA? what year size is the EJ? it is easier than you might think, you have one of the hardest parts out of the way getting a stripped harness. it will make your EA a completely different car, I love mine. Good Luck! Ben