tractor pole

the spline difference is on the transmission side. turbo trans(manual or auto) = 25 spline naturally aspirated trans (manual or auto) = 23 spline the outer splines are the same. Ben

unless your flywheel is cracked or heat scorched I would get it resurfaced at a local machine shop (about $35) but the root of your problem is most likely an improperly machined step where the previous owner/mechanic only machined the surface that the clutch disc contacts. I am not sure of the measurement but I have seen this issue covered here before. Ben

Progress!!! but no pics... I know, boooo!! engine is in its new home:headbang: I stripped the harness today, a little more cleaning up and it will be ready to do a test run before I install it permanently. so finish up the wiring, get it running, put it on a trailer and take it to the exhaust shop. Hopefully I can make progress this week like I was able to this weekend.

a direct swap would be a 3.9 VLSD from a legacy SS(I think) the VLSD is a viscous type, it uses a silicone fluid instead of clutch packs. they are kind of hard to find but then again so is a LSD rear diff. Welcome to the forum btw the search function will yield a lot more info than I could ever provide. this subject has been covered in depth countless times. TP

It is a bolt in install but you have to make sure that the rear diff ratio matches your transmission diff ratio. if I am not mistaken, Loyales generally have a 3.90 rear diff, unless it is a turbo model then it should have a 3.70 diff. keep in mind that the turbo transmissions will require a 25 spline front axle shaft and the non turbo will have 23 spline

That could very easily be done on a manual Bridgeport mill. Or even a drill press...

Suberdave's GL has a five lug swap, if you were willing to go that route the fronts could be an EJ front coilover setup (not 100% sure of year range) and MX-5(Miata) rears from what I understand they bolt right in and allow for lower than you can get with sleeves on stock EA rear struts. as far as if you could cut the bottom of the front MX-5 coil-overs and fit them into the front knuckles, you might get lucky... but you would probably have to get them in hand to see if they fit. Ben

to each his own...

you would have to cannibalize the front axles and remove the outer DOJ leaving just the splines and re install to protect and have proper bearing support unless you expect the outer seal to take the weight of the front of the car... It would not roll without an outer axle end installed.

I recommend the 3M 1080 scotchprint,(it comes in lots of colors too) it is really easy to work with. a friend of mine did the roof on his Infiniti G35 and he had some peeling paint towards the front of the roof line, he sanded down the edges of the peeling paint and primed the area then wrapped it with the vinyl. I am going to wrap my canopy for my truck with this same stuff. Ben

haha, if I put it on a trailer I could have brought it. I made some progress this weekend!!! so next time might be in the cards!

I have heard Tom Wood's parts are really good, probably cost prohibitive... http://www.4xshaft.com/ I think these are the same guys that if you don't specify a color for your driveshaft they will assume that you want it pink.:-p other than that, you can get replacement u-joints from Rockford driveline I checked into them a year or so ago and they were around $38/ea Ben

This has been covered many times. I have a thread I started about my five lug swap Good luck Ben

last weekend I was able to get all the engine all cleaned up, gaskets, t-belt, idlers, h2o pump new belt covers, reseal oil pan and rebuilt the power steering pump. this weekend, modify the lower core support to accept an Impreza radiator, get engine installed and start on the wiring... good thing I have rain gear. zzz

they are really nice!!!:cool: I have one.

this is taken directly from the diagram I posted above. if it is the same configuration as the one you have. _ _ 1 2 _ _ 3 4 _ _ 5 6 l l 7 8 1,2 = 12v constant power source(fused) 3 = door closed wire 4= no connection 5 = door open wire 6 = 12v lamp positive terminal 7 = 12v power source from the switch 8 = ground all the info should be there between the two write ups to make this work

Yeah not in any hurry, i will consider them on hold for you. Let me know.

I swapped from a 3AT to a d/r, I did not have to do anything other than unbolting automatic related parts and bolting in manual related parts. no cutting or fabricating was required.

I wish I could make it out to this... I am finally "neck deep" in my EJ swap and I can't wait to finish it.

Cool! I have a set of 200sx rear calipers with the parking brake, they will bolt right up to the xt6 caliper brackets. PM me if you are interested Ben

I would use two layers of tape then spray with parting agent. Just make sure the tape is down securely and you dont mix the resin too hot. Works great

here http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/electrical/centerlamp-relay.pdf also it comes up top of the page on google Ben

The shop pay structure was changing for the worse, I wanted a more stable career so I got into aviation... don't know if it's more stable but the pay is better and doesn't fluctuate like commission baaed pay. Ben

Yes. Especially if it comes with the linkage.

update: after attending WCSS14 with a dog of an engine, I finally got some time to work on the swap. EA82 is out Flywheel is redrilled Timing set and h2o pump arrived last friday, engine is finally cleaned up new left and right inner timing covers, valve cover gaskets arrived last week too. this weekend I finally have some time set aside to do some actual work:clap: lets see how this works out. pics and updates to follow.