abog

Roadsubie, if you are thinking of selling it as is I would be interested. I am in Reno.

Autocross and open track car. Is also daily driven quite often. Have killed stock rotors in a weekend on the track, but these are holding up really well. Based on my experience with these I want them on my other SVX's (3)

Does anyone have any experience with the Drilled and slotted brake rotors and pad kits on Ebay? Have some on a 92 SVX, but they were on it when I purchased it and have no idea where they came from.

There it is, thanks

Hey does anyone know what happened to GD's swap write up? The link doesnt seem to work....

If its a 1984 as he said, it is an ea81

Finally had some time today to work on the hatch, Pulled the engine and began disassembling. So far nothing horrible, I am thinking that the compression rings are stuck on the low cylinder. Am going to totally disassemble for a good cleaning, new gaskets and seals. I am hoping that all I will need to do is hone the cylinders and install new rings, but I haven't measured anything yet

It is campaign number 83V026000

185/65-15's are 24.5" in diameter

The best part is everything comes apart without having to use a torch.... I am originally from the northeast and am all to familiar with rust, and I have to say it is nice not having to deal with it .

Yes it is in pretty good shape, drivers front fender has some rust on the bottom and a little in the drivers rear wheel well. Both look like easy repairs. Next step is going to be diagnosing the engine trouble and choosing which way to go with it.

Picked up a new project a 1988 hatch back. Solid Nevada car, in decent shape. Has no compression in the number one cylinder. Have all components for an EJ swap as well as an EJT upgrade, decisions, decisions.....

The light harness is called a headlight fuse kit. It just plugged in between the original harness connectors. GD is correct that your lights should work fine if you just took it out. I am trying to remember where the other end plugged in but it was a long time ago........sucks getting older. The original headlamp fuse holder was secured by a rivet that held it to the terminal plate, this rivet could loosen and the higher resistance of the circuit would cause the solder to melt on the fuse resulting in headlamp failure.

If you were to pull the heads and remove the valves, you would be amazed at the amount of carbon buildup that is on the valves.

Definitely not a good idea to use a torch on a/c components. Most of these parts are aluminum and can easily be damaged. Nipper is correct on his warning, never fool with the high pressure side with the small cans. If the system is not running you should be ok, but it is a bad habit to get into. All it would take is one mistake and you could be seriously hurt.