jaredb3000

Thanks for the input once again- Yeah, now that I've found a blown up rear brake diagram, funky little drum is the parking brake as mentioned above, and its not in horrible shape anyhow (on one side anyhow...) I've read some mixed opinions on the stone guard, and would like to know if anyone has any input on getting rid of this all together? Also, per the actual name- do auto part stores call this a backing plate or something else, or is this limited to a junkyard part? As it stands, stone guard on my friend's car is disintegrated which I figure cant be too friendly on new rotors/pads and new (or rebuilt) calipers... If removal is no big deal, I like the sound of that! As always, muchos gracias p.s. Its probably noted somewhere on this forum, but for any future readers- a really long extension is needed to get the bottom rear caliper support bolt loose.

Thanks Gents! I'm in TN, though this car spent 8 years in upstate NY so there's certainly some visible crud. I got the caliper bolts off last night, as well as the upper of the 2 pad frame bolts (both of which in this case are 14mm). Caliper seized due to corroded rubber gasket, methinks. The bottom one proved difficult to get a stout driver/extension with enough of a radius to turn due to one of the axle components (an arm of some sort?). Anyhow, carefully toiling away I will go. Just out of curiosity- if I come across a funky looking little drum, I'm thinking a good bet would be to find decent rear axles at the local pull-a-part and swap out. Anyone got the details on years/models that will coexist with this one? As always, thanks so much for the input USMB folks.

Greetings all, Helping a cash strapped friend swap out rear calipers and rotors on her '01 legacy sedan (one caliper seized and the rotor on the other side is excessively warn...). I've only done Subaru disc brakes on my 94 legacy wagon, and wondering if there is any wisdom specific to this car/year etc that you would share. Got 3 of 4 caliper bolts off, the 4th one proved to be tricky to get a proper grip on so I've saved it for later tonight. FYI- I've been searching around USMB with surprisingly little luck- maybe its the new format I'm not used to. If this has been covered a million times- my apologies (please point me in the right direction!) Anyhow- Once I get the 4 bolts plus the the bolt that fastens the brake line to the caliper, will the rotor come right off or is there something else I'm not seeing/remembering about this? The rock guard is pretty shot so I may think about replacing/removing this... Also, if there is a link to a pdf of the service manual (or just the portion of it with the brakes exploded view) please let me know! Thanks much! JB

I hear you guys- no luck on a single legacy around here, except for a 97 at a pick n' pull. Clock is ticking on my temporary tags, and the CEL has to be gone to pass...

Cool- Thanks GG. Yeah, in TN they take a look at the CEL, regardless of the code, to pass inspections. Interestingly enough, they don't inspect brake lights, headlights, or turn signals (which I'm pretty sure are an optional driving feature around here...) Take care- JB

Greetings all, I've checked around the forum to discover that I can trick the CEL system with a 60 Ohm resistor, but wanted to double check the how-to aspect of this. Does it matter where this resistor goes? Does this happen down below the steering column or is there an optimal plan of attack anyone would care to share as to the process? Thanks, JB

Thanks Ross. A quick elaboration on the steering question- how tricky is the rack replacement, which when going bad tends to be stiff when cold? As for parts, since I will be at a pick/pull junkyard tomorrow for my own 94 Leg Wagon, is the "rack" in the 2001s the rack and pinion assembly? Definitely going to try out the fluid flush first, but want to be ready for plan b...

Cool, Thanks grhrps. Having done some more research on power steering systems in general, it sounds like a flushing of steering system might be in order due to some water in the system (the most common culprit being the addition of fluid from an open bottle that had been opened for some time). This car was in florida for a couple years, and apparently it did not do this down there, and the problems only arose after moving further north once it started getting cold. With front end jacked up, would that be with the reservoir cap off? I'll do my homework in the USMB archives. Nice to know I wont be replacing the stone guard if I don't have to!

Greetings USMB, A friend I am staying with has a 2001 subaru legacy sedan, with a few problems I am trying to repair. The first being what I want to call (for lack of proper terminology) a rotor cover: She thought it may have been bad brakes because of a metal on metal sound, however the rotor wear is not abnormal and the pads look just about new. The culprit is the metal "cover" behind the rotor, some of the bottom was rusted enough so that it was slightly contacting the rotor. My main questions around this are whether or not it would be ok to just remove the rusted out portion, as 90% of this is still in tact, or if it a must to replace this with a new one. If so- what is this called exactly, and is it pretty straight forward to take off/replace? Secondly, when I drove the car to turn it around the steering felt as if there was no power steering in the car- when I inquired, she said this is only the case when running the car cold (i.e. first start in the morning, whereas once driving it around, it feels fine. I'm inclined to think this is a p.s. pump issue, but I've never had to deal with this in a car I've owned before. There is fluid in the reservoir, no fluid loss to speak of. Is the steering rough when cold scenario indicative of a bad pump, or something else in particular? Thanks USMB, any and all input is appreciated, as always.

The kit I bought last week for 94ej22 was gmb, oem but with a cardboard gasket. Paid monday morning, got it weds night-whole kit cost less than the water pump alone at my local subaru dealer...

Probably mid-upper 40's, starting to feel chilly in the Northeast. Thanks for the info, I have never paid much attention to the fans as this car has been a trooper for 2 years, and all I have to compare to is 80's Fords that always had the fans running (before I learned of the superiority of Subarus/Toyota trucks).

Second go around proved successful with the timing belt (94 Legacy Wagon EJ22). It jumped quite a bit the first time, perhaps the slack between the crank sprocket and drivers side cam pulley caused the marks to move when I pulled the allen key from the adjuster... Anyhow, she purrs now. Sounds better than any point in my 2 years of ownership. For the first 25 minutes of warming to burp system, no codes. Next startup after this, the CEL reappeared; code 35 canister purge solenoid valve (no more O2 sensor code however). Is it OK to junkyard swap these, or is that the only option? Is there another search term for this part, because I can't seem to find any parts stores with this? After running the car for nearly a half an hour during burping, the fans never kicked on. After noticing no more bubbles the lower hose finally felt warm, and with an even heat around the radiator, I capped and drove around a few miles and still no fans kicking on. This is a new (to me) used radiator, however similar behavior was happening with the old shotty radiator as well. Before I realized the old one was bad, and having changed the thermostat as a first measure, the fans did kick on eventually about 25 minutes into the burping and then after driving, but only for less than a minute. Is this typical, or does this sound symptomatic of something electrical/gauge oriented? Just finished school and I have a good job lined up in Nashville in a couple weeks, so I am dialing in as much as I can before the move. This also means that before long I'll be able to eat more than ramen, and send a donation to help keep this forum running smoothly- I appreciate all the help thus far!

Sooo, Timing was definitely off from where I had everything set... I'll correct and then reassemble... One thing I have noticed is that the passenger side cam pulley moves much less taught than the driver side, when moving to adjust. It was like this the first go round. Could this be an air in the valves symptom?

Having read, and read, and read so I would not botch the Tbelt reinstall, I have to assume that I nonetheless did not put it on correctly. Hence the head scratching- the direction is proper, the hash marks lined up at 12, and I got a 44/40.5 tooth count. What are the symptoms of a bad tensioner adjuster? I compressed it slowly, and it remained taught, and I saw no oil near the shaft... but maybe that could be the culprit Having pulled the MAF sensor housing to check air filter/make some room, I was hoping that might have contributed to this dilemma. Well, I suppose I'll redo the TBelt today and see what happens....

Still scratching my head, but some progress... Cleaned MAF, put in new PCV, started and maintained running w/o sluggishness- 10fold better than prior to doing this. It was idling a bit high, after accelerating a bit it sat at 1000 for a few seconds and stalled. In beginning approaching cleaning the IAC, I have drawn from the following wisdom: "The idle air control valve gets gunked up pretty easily, but its also fairly easy to clean. All you need is a can of throttle body cleaner. The idle air control valve gets air through a small hose that taps into the large air intake hose that runs from the air filter to the throttle body. With the engine off, remove the air intake hose from the throttle body open the throttle and spray all that clean and reassemble. Next, detach the small hose that leads to the IAC (right next to the throttle body) from the air intake hose. Spray throttle body cleaner down the hose until it just about drowns and reconnect it. Start the engine. You may have to open the throttle a little to get it started, and it may die a couple of times as it pulls the cleaning fluid through. I find it takes two to three cycles of drowning it in cleaner and starting the engine to get the IAC clean when its sludgy. You'll know its wokring correctly when the engine idles correctly again..." I omitted the first of these 2 steps b/c I was not positive that the very skinny (bic pen width) hose in top of the throttle body is the one mentioned above, plus its sideways so I cant see how I would get fluid to the inside of the body... Having sprayed a healthy dose of cleaner in the hose that connects to the IAC (disconnecting near the air filter from the larger air intake duct), I killed the battery trying to start it. It almost started once, turned for a while, at one point I heard a hell of a pop but no ignition... Jumper cables are ready for tomorrow morning. Just throwing it all out there, if anyone has any feedback I am all ears:confused: