jaredb3000

Thanks for the input once again- Yeah, now that I've found a blown up rear brake diagram, funky little drum is the parking brake as mentioned above, and its not in horrible shape anyhow (on one side anyhow...) I've read some mixed opinions on the stone guard, and would like to know if anyone has any input on getting rid of this all together? Also, per the actual name- do auto part stores call this a backing plate or something else, or is this limited to a junkyard part? As it stands, stone guard on my friend's car is disintegrated which I figure cant be too friendly on new rotors/pads and new (or rebuilt) calipers... If removal is no big deal, I like the sound of that! As always, muchos gracias p.s. Its probably noted somewhere on this forum, but for any future readers- a really long extension is needed to get the bottom rear caliper support bolt loose.

Thanks Gents! I'm in TN, though this car spent 8 years in upstate NY so there's certainly some visible crud. I got the caliper bolts off last night, as well as the upper of the 2 pad frame bolts (both of which in this case are 14mm). Caliper seized due to corroded rubber gasket, methinks. The bottom one proved difficult to get a stout driver/extension with enough of a radius to turn due to one of the axle components (an arm of some sort?). Anyhow, carefully toiling away I will go. Just out of curiosity- if I come across a funky looking little drum, I'm thinking a good bet would be to find decent rear axles at the local pull-a-part and swap out. Anyone got the details on years/models that will coexist with this one? As always, thanks so much for the input USMB folks.

Greetings all, Helping a cash strapped friend swap out rear calipers and rotors on her '01 legacy sedan (one caliper seized and the rotor on the other side is excessively warn...). I've only done Subaru disc brakes on my 94 legacy wagon, and wondering if there is any wisdom specific to this car/year etc that you would share. Got 3 of 4 caliper bolts off, the 4th one proved to be tricky to get a proper grip on so I've saved it for later tonight. FYI- I've been searching around USMB with surprisingly little luck- maybe its the new format I'm not used to. If this has been covered a million times- my apologies (please point me in the right direction!) Anyhow- Once I get the 4 bolts plus the the bolt that fastens the brake line to the caliper, will the rotor come right off or is there something else I'm not seeing/remembering about this? The rock guard is pretty shot so I may think about replacing/removing this... Also, if there is a link to a pdf of the service manual (or just the portion of it with the brakes exploded view) please let me know! Thanks much! JB

I hear you guys- no luck on a single legacy around here, except for a 97 at a pick n' pull. Clock is ticking on my temporary tags, and the CEL has to be gone to pass...

Cool- Thanks GG. Yeah, in TN they take a look at the CEL, regardless of the code, to pass inspections. Interestingly enough, they don't inspect brake lights, headlights, or turn signals (which I'm pretty sure are an optional driving feature around here...) Take care- JB

Greetings all, I've checked around the forum to discover that I can trick the CEL system with a 60 Ohm resistor, but wanted to double check the how-to aspect of this. Does it matter where this resistor goes? Does this happen down below the steering column or is there an optimal plan of attack anyone would care to share as to the process? Thanks, JB

Thanks Ross. A quick elaboration on the steering question- how tricky is the rack replacement, which when going bad tends to be stiff when cold? As for parts, since I will be at a pick/pull junkyard tomorrow for my own 94 Leg Wagon, is the "rack" in the 2001s the rack and pinion assembly? Definitely going to try out the fluid flush first, but want to be ready for plan b...

Cool, Thanks grhrps. Having done some more research on power steering systems in general, it sounds like a flushing of steering system might be in order due to some water in the system (the most common culprit being the addition of fluid from an open bottle that had been opened for some time). This car was in florida for a couple years, and apparently it did not do this down there, and the problems only arose after moving further north once it started getting cold. With front end jacked up, would that be with the reservoir cap off? I'll do my homework in the USMB archives. Nice to know I wont be replacing the stone guard if I don't have to!

Greetings USMB, A friend I am staying with has a 2001 subaru legacy sedan, with a few problems I am trying to repair. The first being what I want to call (for lack of proper terminology) a rotor cover: She thought it may have been bad brakes because of a metal on metal sound, however the rotor wear is not abnormal and the pads look just about new. The culprit is the metal "cover" behind the rotor, some of the bottom was rusted enough so that it was slightly contacting the rotor. My main questions around this are whether or not it would be ok to just remove the rusted out portion, as 90% of this is still in tact, or if it a must to replace this with a new one. If so- what is this called exactly, and is it pretty straight forward to take off/replace? Secondly, when I drove the car to turn it around the steering felt as if there was no power steering in the car- when I inquired, she said this is only the case when running the car cold (i.e. first start in the morning, whereas once driving it around, it feels fine. I'm inclined to think this is a p.s. pump issue, but I've never had to deal with this in a car I've owned before. There is fluid in the reservoir, no fluid loss to speak of. Is the steering rough when cold scenario indicative of a bad pump, or something else in particular? Thanks USMB, any and all input is appreciated, as always.

The kit I bought last week for 94ej22 was gmb, oem but with a cardboard gasket. Paid monday morning, got it weds night-whole kit cost less than the water pump alone at my local subaru dealer...

Probably mid-upper 40's, starting to feel chilly in the Northeast. Thanks for the info, I have never paid much attention to the fans as this car has been a trooper for 2 years, and all I have to compare to is 80's Fords that always had the fans running (before I learned of the superiority of Subarus/Toyota trucks).

Second go around proved successful with the timing belt (94 Legacy Wagon EJ22). It jumped quite a bit the first time, perhaps the slack between the crank sprocket and drivers side cam pulley caused the marks to move when I pulled the allen key from the adjuster... Anyhow, she purrs now. Sounds better than any point in my 2 years of ownership. For the first 25 minutes of warming to burp system, no codes. Next startup after this, the CEL reappeared; code 35 canister purge solenoid valve (no more O2 sensor code however). Is it OK to junkyard swap these, or is that the only option? Is there another search term for this part, because I can't seem to find any parts stores with this? After running the car for nearly a half an hour during burping, the fans never kicked on. After noticing no more bubbles the lower hose finally felt warm, and with an even heat around the radiator, I capped and drove around a few miles and still no fans kicking on. This is a new (to me) used radiator, however similar behavior was happening with the old shotty radiator as well. Before I realized the old one was bad, and having changed the thermostat as a first measure, the fans did kick on eventually about 25 minutes into the burping and then after driving, but only for less than a minute. Is this typical, or does this sound symptomatic of something electrical/gauge oriented? Just finished school and I have a good job lined up in Nashville in a couple weeks, so I am dialing in as much as I can before the move. This also means that before long I'll be able to eat more than ramen, and send a donation to help keep this forum running smoothly- I appreciate all the help thus far!

Sooo, Timing was definitely off from where I had everything set... I'll correct and then reassemble... One thing I have noticed is that the passenger side cam pulley moves much less taught than the driver side, when moving to adjust. It was like this the first go round. Could this be an air in the valves symptom?

Having read, and read, and read so I would not botch the Tbelt reinstall, I have to assume that I nonetheless did not put it on correctly. Hence the head scratching- the direction is proper, the hash marks lined up at 12, and I got a 44/40.5 tooth count. What are the symptoms of a bad tensioner adjuster? I compressed it slowly, and it remained taught, and I saw no oil near the shaft... but maybe that could be the culprit Having pulled the MAF sensor housing to check air filter/make some room, I was hoping that might have contributed to this dilemma. Well, I suppose I'll redo the TBelt today and see what happens....

Still scratching my head, but some progress... Cleaned MAF, put in new PCV, started and maintained running w/o sluggishness- 10fold better than prior to doing this. It was idling a bit high, after accelerating a bit it sat at 1000 for a few seconds and stalled. In beginning approaching cleaning the IAC, I have drawn from the following wisdom: "The idle air control valve gets gunked up pretty easily, but its also fairly easy to clean. All you need is a can of throttle body cleaner. The idle air control valve gets air through a small hose that taps into the large air intake hose that runs from the air filter to the throttle body. With the engine off, remove the air intake hose from the throttle body open the throttle and spray all that clean and reassemble. Next, detach the small hose that leads to the IAC (right next to the throttle body) from the air intake hose. Spray throttle body cleaner down the hose until it just about drowns and reconnect it. Start the engine. You may have to open the throttle a little to get it started, and it may die a couple of times as it pulls the cleaning fluid through. I find it takes two to three cycles of drowning it in cleaner and starting the engine to get the IAC clean when its sludgy. You'll know its wokring correctly when the engine idles correctly again..." I omitted the first of these 2 steps b/c I was not positive that the very skinny (bic pen width) hose in top of the throttle body is the one mentioned above, plus its sideways so I cant see how I would get fluid to the inside of the body... Having sprayed a healthy dose of cleaner in the hose that connects to the IAC (disconnecting near the air filter from the larger air intake duct), I killed the battery trying to start it. It almost started once, turned for a while, at one point I heard a hell of a pop but no ignition... Jumper cables are ready for tomorrow morning. Just throwing it all out there, if anyone has any feedback I am all ears:confused:

Check out the big brain on me... The last time I checked the codes, I disconnected the black connectors that look quite like the test ones, which in fact are for the key is in the ignition beeper... So it goes, the o2/solenoid codes have vanished. I know the marks were spot on, as was tooth count. Bad hydraulic tensioner adjuster perhaps? oye vey.

Ok, grabbed a 30 second cell phone video, the sound is horrible, like a jet engine behind me about to explode... Its by no means this loud, but if you listen through, you can get an idea of the idle speed jumping around a bit- it slows towards the end there and picks back up. The video stopped right before it actually stalled. Would'nt mind some input before I go back to the T-Belt for sure. I did unplug the harness associated with the MAF, to make room when doing the valve gasket on that side. It sounds like air intake issues on carbeurated engines, perhaps I bothered the MAF... Although I had an O2 sensor code and a purge solenoid valve code for a couple months, this car was running well before recent belt/pump etc. Would a new belt exacerbate these problems? Wishful thinking perhaps... Youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PylD-fLggYo Also, in regards to ECU, in the past I followed this link which does not mention disconnecting test leads at all... I'll do some more research on this, as I am not sure where those are.

Well, I'm thinking for starters I'll get MAF sensor cleaner, and put in a new PCV valve. That should set me back 10$... The flashing CEL was flashing (as mentioned above) before I connected the black ECU connectors, with no noticeable change once connected. Should I reset? From info at http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html a few months back I got a 32 and 34, so I know how the flashing light behaves... The flashing is steady, so I don't think its an 11, and it acts the same with ECU unplugged as when plugged in...

Here's an interesting/annoying thing- the CEL is still flashing, at a steady rate (equal time between lit/not lit) of 1second. Same thing with or w/o the OBD plugged in...

Well, something is amiss, perhaps the timing is off... The rundown: After filling the coolant using the engine block/attach hose/top off at rad/run for 20 seconds and shut off to let some initial air out method, she started up fine, but I noticed it sounded a bit louder (there is a slight exhaust leak that I'll be tending to after this business), and I noticed a slight pulsing of the idle speed, that slightly (a few hundred rpms) went up/down; after 20 seconds I shut engine off. I'm about to go check the codes, just wanted to get a head start on this. The check engine light was blinking steadily when running. Topped off fluid, restarted, but running sluggishly after a moment then stalled. I'm curious if a prior slightly off timing would result in this problem with it done correctly? Prior to this, it used to idle slightly below 1000. With the new belt in, for 15-20 seconds there before it stalled it actually maintained at exactly 1000. Otherwise, this was a well running engine before this project... I pulled the side belt covers to take a look, and the belt is still tight. The positives- I see no oil weeping anywhere which is why I did this in the first place. Since it started, the spendy crank sensor does not need to be replaced. Before I get at the belts again, I am curious if there is any smaller things I might want to check. Also, if it is OK to start it again w/o damaging anything, in order to grab a few seconds of audio/video to post... Also, would the O2 sensor contribute to this? That is something that has been in need of replacing, however the car ran fine before the new Tbelt... Thanks yall.

Thanks GG- I think the yotatech forum has forever tainted my use of other vehicle forums, as it puts what vehicle(s) you own automatically in your post for you. Sorry about that, its a 94 Legacy Wagon non-turbo EJ22. I did end up pulling the pump again and ditched the gasket, going with ultra grey for a seal after locktiting the screws. At autozone, I picked up a crank seal that came with the O-ring and a very thin gasket that mates with the pump and the block. Got the Tbelt on with all notches @ 12 oclock, marks on the belt lined up spot-on with these marks, and I counted 44/40.5 for the teeths. Have to go get one more of the smaller radiator hoses I forgot I had to cut to get old radiator out last weekend, then comes sighs of relief or blackout rage... or at least a whole lot of cussin'. If anybody happens upon this, I am curious if a high temp silicone (i have some red somewheres, or else the ultra grey) would be okay to better seal up the the rear/front timing belt cover seam where there is the slightest gap near/at the new waterpump. The covers alligned properly, but there is one spot that seems like it could benefit from some xtra sealing... Also, I am curious if it is ok that the cam pulleys moved ever so slightly when the belt was off, and I was putting the pulleys back on to tighten (before later tightening super tight, that is). They moved clockwise maybe 1/2" (to 1 oclock) which I of course returned to the original 12 oclock position exactly where they were. I have been told by a couple people that this is OK, but they were not Subaru people per se... Thanks again to everyone who has offered advice. This project has definitely pushed the boundaries of my auto mechanic experience- could'nt have done it without USMB! Now I just have to find my 59 Galaxie 500 Skyliner resto project car...

Greetings Yall, I am in the midst of finishing up timing belt project (which I have tackled thanks to helpful folks on USMB), waiting now for the belt kit. Have the cam seals/rings and valve gaskets finished, and the crank seal/oring/gasket finished, I hope… The last questions out of me for a while- promise:banana: I just came across that I should use three bond 1215 or equivalent fluid packing in the service manual, however the manual has no mention of a gasket… Will the gasket that came with the crank seal/ring suffice, or should I take the pump back off and use three bond, or (I think I have a tube kicking around somewhere) some high-temp red silicone gasket sealant? Since I had not come across this in USMB posts, I opted to not use a sealant. While its still accessible, should I pull the pump again and use some sealant in addition to the gasket? High temp red sealant for h2o pump in addition to the gasket, or just the gasket? Also, now that the pump is on with the new gasket () I noticed it may be wise to use some locktite on the screws- 2 were loose, which I tightened well by hand. Should I think about pulling the pump back off and locktite-ing all the screws, or only the ones that were loose, or not worry? Speaking of locktite, should I do crank and cam bolts with locktite, or only cams? I have gotten mixed signals on this reading older posts. Back to the oil pump: after unbolting the sensor on top of the pump, one side slightly fractured when I attempted to remove it. When bolted back on, you cant even notice the fracture, and it was not enough to expose any wiring or metal. What is this called, and should I definitely replace? Can’t seem to find any info on this part in USMB and the manual does not include this in any diagrams. In the worst case scenario, if I don’t change this, would I get a code to know that I need to change it? I ended up doing the gasket/oring/seal with this still attached, a pain in the rump roast but doable. Very last question forever (): Having already done the valve cover gaskets, I came across this in the shop manual: "After ensuring that the marks on timing belt and camshaft sprockets are aligned, remove stopper pin from belt tension adjuster. CAUTION: After properly installing timing belt, remove rocker cover and ensure that the valve lash adjuster contains no air." Is this a given, or do most people omit this step?

Sooo, With a few days wait on the T-Belt kit, I wanted to cover a few last bases as some more questions have surfaced... First question is whether or not I need a key for the crank sprocket (found a thread dealing with a 95 legacy, which might be an ej25? that mentioned the need for a key), or otherwise if I can carefully pry it off, not damaging oil pump, and if wd40 is OK for this application. Also, just to double check, when you say reseal the oil pump, I am assuming this would be the very thin gasket and o ring that comes with the crank seal I bought? Perhaps removal of the oil pump would provide some leverage in removing the sprocket, or is this a no-no? I've got the new driver side cam seal/o-ring on just fine, and I have the passenger side cam seal removed. From the looks of the manual, there is not an Oring for this side (I have access to a 92 and 95 service manual)- is this correct, or is there something I am overlooking? I am scratching my head on this one, as the cam seals came with 2 seals and 2 o-rings... Having already done the valve cover gaskets, I just came across this in the shop manual: "After ensuring that the marks on timing belt and camshaft sprockets are aligned, remove stopper pin from belt tension adjuster. CAUTION: After properly installing timing belt, remove rocker cover and ensure that the valve lash adjuster contains no air." Should I definitely do this, or is it a step that might be overlooked when the time comes? Havent come across this in any threads... Lastly- on the passenger side cam pulley, the back side T-Belt cover piece has some of the foam gasket missing- should I worry about replacing this, or can I just remove all the old foam similar to the removal of the rubber gasket on the driver side cover as mentioned in GD's post? Anyhow, thanks to everyone who has offered their wisdom. It's rewarding to save a large chunk of change and do this myself, many thanks to USMB for some handholding along the way! Now that I've gotten into the project, I am not at all overwhelmed.

Success! After an overnight in wd40, I first smacked it around with the 1/2in to help loosen things up, and with a sturdy hand socket shaft in the bell housing, managed to get it off. The kicker (and potentially useful for anyone in a pinch)- without a breaker bar around, I made due with an old cast iron outdoor table umbrella stand, weighs about 15-20lbs. It was like having a breaker bar with a steering wheel! On to more rusty bolts...

Just saw the hole in the side of the engine bell housing post- had heard of this elsewhere, just not on USMB. Just might give that a shot first. Thanks yall, nice to know I've got a few options, especially given the ugliness of the rust near that bolt...